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Member Since: Jun 11, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact john durr


Point Rank: # 155
Total Points: 3,169
Last Year: 400
Last 30 Days: 79
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1612 | Routes 147 | Areas 9 | Photos 298 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 65 | Posts 10 | Stars 1076 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: The 5.11 just right of Pinhead I believe is called Shaman Skyway FA: Mike Roberts established some time before 2003.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Cling or Fling Corridor
By: john durr When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: The descent described above is good for routes on the south summit but there is a quick easy down climb from the north rock of the corridor that avoids crossing the chock stone, 5 minutes will see you back at the base of the route.

From the north side of the huge chock stone, head north west up slightly up left from the chock stone until you can see a easy exit going down and left. Follow this down and around until it comes out about 100 feet north of Beautiful Screamer and Rick's Ro... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Boulder Pile : ... : The Trophy (on The Aerie) (5.11b)
By: john durr When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: This route's name is "The Trophy". FA by Noel Childs, Brett Bristol, Lee Marsh, Marion Durr and John Durr, 1987.

The formation is the Aerie. The route was named for a very large bowling trophy Brett wanted to use in the chimney section which was used as pro and left there per Brett's instructions "as a fixed piece".

Glad to see it got climbed again - it's a great route that's got it all including a great Platte summit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Roadwork Wall : Road Work (5.10c)
By: john durr When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: A fun first pitch. The second pitch looks easy, but is tricky, slippery and not enough pro. The third pitch is burly.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Sub Gorge : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Jun 22, 2011

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Comments: Praying Mantle 5.10b, Fixings for a Sandwich 5.10c, and Flashing with Jeckyl Juice 5.11b left to right on the sunny face.

Scratch 'n Sniff 5.10a and Three Stooges 5.10a left to right on the shady face.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : Thumbs Up (5.10a)
By: john durr When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: Loose and unpleasant - bring small brass nuts and small cams as well as SR. Rappel from a small tree to the right with a 70 meter rope.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Filipino Wall : Marcos (5.10a)
By: john durr When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: My partner decided to lead the thin left slanting sharp finger crack just right of Marcos today. Pretty good finger cranking 5.10b/c? Anyone know the name of this short sweet crack?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Filipino Wall : Exiled (5.10b)
By: john durr When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: short, steep and sweet - 2 good bolts + thin stoppers and tiny cams


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : B-52 Rock
By: john durr When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: I tried to wander over to the south face routes and despite the rumor that bee populations are declining, just past Roam I immediately got hammered by very territorial bees. There was also a cute little rattler hiding in the boulders below Love Shack.

It is not always pleasant making contact with nature in the desert.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: Who knows for sure, but I think the left leaning crack starting from the first bolt is actually Sugar Pops 5.10c (TR) and Pop Rocks takes the crack up and right from the first bolt. Sugar Pops would be a bold lead indeed.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Lost Pencil
By: john durr When: Oct 26, 2010

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Comments: The anchor and bolts on the Indian Giver route have been upgraded.

There is also a shiny new bolt left of the second bolt of Indian Giver, it looks harder, but maybe less scary to get to than the original route second bolt.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: The iconic "Pinhead" is just over the first roof's lip.

The next crack to the right is 5.11 with a pin and shinny bolt that joins Pinhead at the second roof and goes right at a bolt onto the sharp sunlit arete above past two more bolts and the Sorcerer's true summit. Best to start on Sleight of Hand instead of traversing in from Pinhead.

The right crack that starts in the left facing dihedral is Slight of Hand 5.10a. It heads up into the large shaded left facing dihedral to the top, a very... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Pornographic Motions (5.10- PG13)
By: john durr When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: The original hand drawn topo for the route list the FFA as: Jenkins, Dangle, Keith, Trout, 1986 and was originally rated 5.10c. Originally with just 2 bolts on the second pitch, the FFA team returned to place two more just a bit later.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Dos Equis (5.10b)
By: john durr When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: Ron Kirk and Mike Smith, 1985.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Hall of Mirrors : Traffic Jam (5.10c)
By: john durr When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: Ron Kirk and Mike Smith reported doing this route in 1986 believing it was a FFA.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Far Reaches (5.12c)
By: john durr When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: Bill Myers, 10/12/85.

Mike Bearzi climbed this line with ice tools. Miss you, man.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sunshine Dome : Shining Path (5.11b)
By: john durr When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: There used to be a tricam smashed into a pocket as the first piece of protection on this route. A late start gave me incentive to lead the last two pitches as one. I ran out of gear and just sat down in some flared groove near the top without anything as Noel bat manned up the last pitch in the dark. He wouldn't talk to me after he got to the belay and saw zero anchors. Heading back to the car in the dark, Kirk Miller, adamant about the "correct" way to go, headed off to Big Rock. We made a... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dark Side Dome : Pebble Beach (5.9 R)
By: john durr When: Aug 26, 2010

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Comments: There is a rusty old bolt midway between the gear anchor of this route and the anchor on The Imperial March, a lonely and scary spot to be and I don't think a part of Pebble Beach.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : The Entity (5.10d R)
By: john durr When: Aug 7, 2010

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Comments: Murf, about the second pitch...

~ Vernon told me that bolt was off route and I checked with Vaino.

In any case, it is beautiful and excellent climbing and deserves more traffic. The second pitch is much less stressful than the first. Part of the beauty of the route is that it remains open to personal interpretation.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer's Apprentice : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 29, 2010

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Comments: Going up the crack to the right is just a little bit harder and more interesting...take your pick.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : The Entity (5.10d R)
By: john durr When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Greg Vernon's guide book comment refers to going straight up the seam to the off route bolt on the second pitch. Instead, face climb left to another crack when you get to this seam, don't climb straight up. So you don't need LoweBalls and/or a knifeblade piton.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: The Nautilus 5.12 is the prominent corner/slot on the left.

The Cauldron 5.10 is the left facing corner just to the right of Nautilus. Three pitches.

Witch Way 5.10 is the left slanting crack that leads to The Cauldron corner, above the small bush in the photo.

The chimney and face right of that?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: All Soles Day 5.9 is the nice thin crack heading up left of the small pine. Two pitches. Two bolts supplement thin gear. Bolted belays. Rap off two ropes.

Layback Variation 5.10 takes the right facing thin corner/crack heading straight up from the small pine. A bolt protects great climbing over a small roof when the crack ends. Follow All Soles Day.

American Kennel Club 5.12a/b is the steep bolted route just to the right which leads to a runout juggy 5.9 face and the All Soles Day belay.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Pondo Pete is the nice one pitch left facing corner.

Pyramid Scheme 5.11a follows dangerous old rusting bolts on the face just to the right of Pondo for 3 short pitches to the summit. First pitch belay is just right of the little tree. Last pitch follows the obvious left facing corner on the summit block.

Le Cigare Volant 5.12a (The Burning Cigarette) is the bolt line just right of that for 4 short pitches. First pitch follows the obvious white dike, hence the name, ending at the first pi... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: I got a couple small TCU's 0 & 00 in a seam inside then a 4" cam just before the wedged blocks. The incredibly stimulating face goes past two new bolts right of the arete (right of the v-slot). Clip the first via exposed stemming right at the arete's edge.


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