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Member Since: Jun 11, 2007
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact john durr

Point Rank: # 154
Total Points: 3,215
Last Year: 418
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1618 | Routes 147 | Areas 9 | Photos 304 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 30 | Posts 9 | Stars 1112 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Cling or Fling Corridor
By: john durr When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: The descent described above is good for routes on the south summit but there is a quick easy down climb from the north rock of the corridor that avoids crossing the chock stone, 5 minutes will see you back at the base of the route.

From the north side of the huge chock stone, head north west up slightly up left from the chock stone until you can see a easy exit going down and left. Follow this down and around until it comes out about 100 feet north of Beautiful Screamer and Rick's Ro... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Roadwork Wall : Road Work (5.10c)
By: john durr When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: A fun first pitch. The second pitch looks easy, but is tricky, slippery and not enough pro. The third pitch is burly.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Sub Gorge : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Jun 22, 2011

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Comments: Praying Mantle 5.10b, Fixings for a Sandwich 5.10c, and Flashing with Jeckyl Juice 5.11b left to right on the sunny face.

Scratch 'n Sniff 5.10a and Three Stooges 5.10a left to right on the shady face.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Grey Giant Area : ... : Thumbs Up (5.10a)
By: john durr When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: Loose and unpleasant - bring small brass nuts and small cams as well as SR. Rappel from a small tree to the right with a 70 meter rope.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Filipino Wall : Marcos (5.10a)
By: john durr When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: My partner decided to lead the thin left slanting sharp finger crack just right of Marcos today. Pretty good finger cranking 5.10b/c? Anyone know the name of this short sweet crack?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: Who knows for sure, but I think the left leaning crack starting from the first bolt is actually Sugar Pops 5.10c (TR) and Pop Rocks takes the crack up and right from the first bolt. Sugar Pops would be a bold lead indeed.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: You can see what's left of the old pin just above the first roof's lip.

The next crack to the right is 5.11 with a pin and shinny bolt that joins Pinhead at the second roof and goes right at a bolt onto the sharp sunlit arete above past two more bolts and the Sorcerer's true summit. Best to start on Sleight of Hand instead of traversing in from Pinhead. I believe it's called Shaman Skyway FA: Mike Roberts established some time before 2003.

The right crack that starts in the left facing dihe... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Pornographic Motions (5.10- PG13)
By: john durr When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: The original hand drawn topo for the route list the FFA as: Jenkins, Dangle, Keith, Trout, 1986 and was originally rated 5.10c. Originally with just 2 bolts on the second pitch, the FFA team returned to place two more just a bit later.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Hall of Mirrors : Traffic Jam (5.10c)
By: john durr When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: Ron Kirk and Mike Smith reported doing this route in 1986 believing it was a FFA.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Far Reaches (5.12c)
By: john durr When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: Bill Myers, 10/12/85.

Mike Bearzi climbed this line with ice tools. Miss you, man.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sunshine Dome : Shining Path (5.11b)
By: john durr When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: There used to be a tricam smashed into a pocket as the first piece of protection on this route. A late start gave me incentive to lead the last two pitches as one. I ran out of gear and just sat down in some flared groove near the top without anything as Noel bat manned up the last pitch in the dark. He wouldn't talk to me after he got to the belay and saw zero anchors. Heading back to the car in the dark, Kirk Miller, adamant about the "correct" way to go, headed off to Big Rock. We made a... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : The Entity (5.10d R)
By: john durr When: Aug 7, 2010

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Comments: Murf, about the second pitch...

~ Vernon told me that bolt was off route and I checked with Vaino.

In any case, it is beautiful and excellent climbing and deserves more traffic. The second pitch is much less stressful than the first. Part of the beauty of the route is that it remains open to personal interpretation.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer's Apprentice : ... : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 29, 2010

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Comments: Going up the crack to the right is just a little bit harder and more interesting...take your pick.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : The Entity (5.10d R)
By: john durr When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Greg Vernon's guide book comment refers to going straight up the seam to the off route bolt on the second pitch. Instead, face climb left to another crack when you get to this seam, don't climb straight up. So you don't need LoweBalls and/or a knifeblade piton.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: The Nautilus 5.12 is the prominent corner/slot on the left.

The Cauldron 5.10 is the left facing corner just to the right of Nautilus. Three pitches.

Witch Way 5.10 is the left slanting crack that leads to The Cauldron corner, above the small bush in the photo.

The chimney and face right of that?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires : Photo
By: john durr When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Pondo Pete is the nice one pitch left facing corner.

Pyramid Scheme 5.11a follows dangerous old rusting bolts on the face just to the right of Pondo for 3 short pitches to the summit. First pitch belay is just right of the little tree. Last pitch follows the obvious left facing corner on the summit block.

Le Cigare Volant 5.12a (The Burning Cigarette) is the bolt line just right of that for 4 short pitches. First pitch follows the obvious white dike, hence the name, ending at the first pi... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Indian Wave Boulders : Indian Cave Boulder
By: john durr When: Jun 18, 2010

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Comments: There is Native American rock art on this boulder exactly where a boulderer would smear right starting the Chicken Wing problem. The Park Superintendent pointed it out to me and the recent boot black and chalk.

Please do not climb on or near this rock.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Overnight Sensation (5.11b)
By: john durr When: May 20, 2010

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Comments: How is it that there is not a line all the time to climb this thing?

Stellar sustained climbing with good pro, 4 bolts, set of TCU's, a #1 & #2 camelot to a bolted anchor. The crux is from the third bolt up to the belay and I think its 5.11a to get to the cave.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Grand Canyon : Grand Canyon - West Wall (W... : For Peter (5.11c R)
By: john durr When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: For Peter Herbine, killed by drunk driver on the way to climb at JT on Hwy 395 near Atolia. Laurie Leach and Mike Dorey were both ejected from the VW bus and survived, late 1980's.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Gary Gray (5.10b)
By: john durr When: May 25, 2009

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Comments: I spent Christmas 1986 in Waco Tanks with a climber named Gary Grey and Paul Midkiff. I heard he died in a climbing accident in the early nineties I think. Does anyone know how this route got named?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : What (5.8+)
By: john durr When: Apr 10, 2009

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Comments: This route is a couple of cracks right (west) of Exorcist. The first pitch is pretty good, but the second pitch is pretty loose and wide. A #2 and #4 camelot should be sufficient to lead this second pitch safely. A better second pitch is to do is It, a nice 5.9 finger crack starting from the same ledge, two cracks left. The rap off Exorcist is easy and quick.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Tiny Tots Rock : Cole Lewis (5.7 PG13)
By: john durr When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: A very nice finger crack in a corner for the first half, then move out left on the face around the roof to easy climbing. Extra finger size with possibly one large 4" cam at the roof. 2-3" for the belay. I didn't notice anything disagreeable with this route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Tiny Tots Rock : Fatal Flaw (5.8)
By: john durr When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: A very nice finger crack in a small corner that goes over a couple bulges. Extra finger size. 2-3" for the belay. This route was much nicer than it appeared from the ground.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Hernie, Hernie, Hernie (5.8)
By: john durr When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: This route is a blast crossing the face towards Overseer past one bolt. Bring a couple slings to tie off knobs going up the loose arete.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Death by Misadventure (5.10c X)
By: john durr When: Jan 2, 2009

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Comments: From the groove/crack mentioned in the description above, there is a new bolt just left, you can clip this and then move slightly right and up which seemed more like 5.9. This would have you going up maybe 5 feet left of the description above and probably is only "R" rated.

Alternatively you can continue traversing left past this new bolt on the horizontal to a short, easy vertical crack and roof, mid 5.10 on the traverse left. This might be "Dead Again" or not.

Either alternative maybe wo... more >>


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