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Johnny Quest


Member Since: Feb 8, 2004
Last Visit: Apr 14, 2014
Contact John Dalbey


Point Rank: # 6,119
Total Points: 54
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Dalbey been climbing?










Contributions


All 20 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 9 | Posts 2 | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Kindergeist (FA)

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'

CA : Central Coast : ... : El Dorado

Dec 19, 2004

Poltergeist

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (5)

TR, 1 pitch, 40'

CA : Central Coast : ... : El Dorado

Dec 19, 2004

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Two new bolts (with orange flag tape for the photo) on the approach slabs to P-Crack.

Two new bolts (with orange flag tape for the photo) on the approach slabs to P-Crack.

CA : Central Coast : ... : Comment

May 4, 2012

Recently moved second bolt.  Red square is location of original bolt.

Recently moved second bolt. Red square is location of original bolt.

CA : Central Coast : ... : Desperado (5.9)

Jun 27, 2009

Johnny Quest

Johnny Quest

John Dalbey : Climbing Photos

Jan 25, 2006

This photo shows John on the first ascent (well, maybe first _recorded_ ascent).  Look closely to see the climber's blue lead rope hanging down the route. To the left of the climber is a white top-rope hanging down from the top anchors. The red dashes above the climber show where the line of Kindergeist stays right of the Poltergeist line.  "Ghost Upstairs" ascends the water streaked ledges to the right of Kindergeist. <br />

This photo shows John on the first ascent (well, maybe first _recorded_ ascent). Look closely to see the climber's blue lead rope hanging down the route. To the left of the climber is a white top-rop

CA : Central Coast : ... : Kindergeist (5.6)

Apr 12, 2005

The courageous Bob Hill on the lead, leaping for the pocket on Dyno Dogs.

The courageous Bob Hill on the lead, leaping for the pocket on Dyno Dogs.

CA : Central Coast : ... : Dyno Dogs (5.10a)

Feb 1, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Elephant Walk (5.7)
By: John Dalbey When: Apr 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did anyone else find the first 25 feet quite hard for the grade?

I consider Yosemite's Sunnyside Jamcrack to be the "definition" of 5.7,
and having climbed that recently, I was stunned at how hard the
start of Elephant Walk turned out to be. It could just be my advancing
years, but I thought the first 25 feet were a full grade harder
than 5.7.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak
By: John Dalbey When: May 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There's been a rash of intentional climber impacts at Bishop Peak in recent months. Pulling down oak snags at Cracked Wall, smashing laurel bushes and sawing limbs at Shadow Wall, massive and hideous wire brushing of the stone on Shadow Wall, and apparently two new bolts in the low angle slabs leading up to P-Crack/Jump for Joy (see photo). There have been bolts added to existing routes: Hanging Teeth, Black Streak, Impacted Stool Crack, and others.

If you find these actions offensive and wo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
By: John Dalbey When: Jul 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I was climbing on P-Wall on Tuesday July 7 around noon and heard what sounded like hammering on rock and then a power tool. My partner didn't
hear it so I didn't investigate. Perhaps what I heard was chipping on Cracked Wall.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Desperado (5.9)
By: John Dalbey When: Jun 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Sometime in the last 2-3 weeks the first three bolts of Desperado
(on the far right of Shadow Wall) have been moved. That is, the
old bolts were removed and new ones put in nearby.

About the same time someone did a massive bush pruning job on the
trail up to Shadow. I suspect it may have been done by the same
people.

When I asked around some people replied it appears to be the work of John Knight.

Some observations (see the attached photo).
First, whoever did the bolting spray painted
the... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : El Dorado : Poltergeist (5.7)
By: John Dalbey When: Apr 12, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Proposal to install a lead bolt at Rockland.

Contact InformationJohn Knight johnrk@charter.netTheron Moses tmoses62@hotmail.comJohn Dalbey jdalbey@calpoly.nospam.edu

Type of Proposal

Installation of a new lead route named Poltergeist. We are proposing to place one new lead bolt to make this former top rope problem into a lead route.

Route Location

Route will be located at Cerro Cabrillo between El Dorado and Rockland. Route will be approximately 20' to 30' left of top rope route, Ghost Ups... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : El Dorado : The Ghost Upstairs (5.5)
By: John Dalbey When: Apr 12, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is only about 30' high at the most; short but enjoyable.

We found five clean gear placements: a medium nut, a blue TCU, a yellow Alien, and two tied-off slings.

When we climbed it, we went up through a series of ledges that are water stained gray-black. To our eye, the climb (and bolts) are about 8 feet right of where the line is drawn in the photo.

If you don't want to lead it, you can hike up to the TR anchors from around the right along a rocky ramp. Maybe a third... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Hanging Teeth (5.8)
By: John Dalbey When: Mar 20, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: There has been a "belay bolt" on top of the pedastel for a very long time.I remember it from the 70's. I like to belay from there, not from the ground.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Fat Man (5.9)
By: John Dalbey When: Feb 16, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: This climb, "Fat Man," was established on rappel with a power drill, a significant and controversial departure from the traditional style (ground-up, hand-drilled ascents) at Bishop's Peak. This practice should be strongly discouraged. There's no reason this climb couldn't have been done in a style consistent with local history and traditions.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves
By: John Dalbey When: Feb 8, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Wagon Caves and all the rocks in this vicinity are known as "The Indians" and have special historical interest. I don't know the "official" policy on climbing at these sites, but because other visitors come here to view the native american artifacts, I recommend climbers keep a very low profile. In particular I would discourage any bolting at all.Also use extreme restraint about "cleaning" routes as in some places the sandstone is very delicate and it's easy to create ugly scars.Also, be on th... more >>


Contributed News

Title Location Submitted By Date
New site! ClimbingSLO.org: the online community for SLO area climbers.CA : Central Coast : San Luis ObispoJohn DalbeyMar 29, 2006

Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Where did "Feature" comments go?Discuss MountainProject.comJohn DalbeyJan 19, 2006
Funny AdvertisementNorthern CaliforniaJohn DalbeyDec 27, 2005

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Kindergeist 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Central Coast : ... : El Dorado

Poltergeist 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Central Coast : ... : El Dorado