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Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, th...


Member Since: Sep 27, 2009
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 375 | Routes 10 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts 2 | Stars 306 | Ratings 35
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Raindown

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (2)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'

WA : Northwest Region : ... : Main Wall

Dec 8, 2014

Bassomatic

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

WA : Central Region : ... : The Bastion

Sep 29, 2014

Aqualine

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

WA : Central Region : ... : Road Side Rock

Sep 11, 2014

Prophylactic Crowbar

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

WA : Central Region : ... : Road Side Rock

Sep 11, 2014

Supprehension

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

WA : Central Region : ... : Road Side Rock

Sep 11, 2014

Men of Banks Lake

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

WA : Central Region : ... : Prime Cut Area

Sep 10, 2014

Prime Cut

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

WA : Central Region : ... : Prime Cut Area

Sep 10, 2014

Life and Debt

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Rocinha

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Jelly Belly

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (7)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'

CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Globule

Jul 30, 2011

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

The Bastion

WA : Central Region : Banks Lake / Northrup Canyo...

Sep 29, 2014

Prime Cut Area

WA : Central Region : Banks Lake / Northrup Canyo...

Sep 10, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Steph cleaning Bassomatic.

Steph cleaning Bassomatic.

WA : Central Region : ... : Bassomatic (5.9)

Sep 29, 2014

A rope on High Motivation. The first two bolts are...

A rope on High Motivation. The first two bolts are low angle, the rest is a steep pumpfest.

CO : Telluride/Norwood area : ... : High Motivation (5.10)

Jun 22, 2013

Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, th...

Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Southeast Buttress (5.6)

Sep 26, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: Johan When: May 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Warning, loose block on p6: I met somebody in the mountains yesterday who said they climbed Outer Space on Saturday, May 2, 2015. They said that on p6, the pitch that starts off library ledge, there's a massive loose flake that's ~5ft x 3ft and moved when touched and could go at any moment. They didn't trundle it because there were several parties on the route. They suspect it won't last long, and it would be seriously dangerous if it fell while climbers were on the route or near the base. I cli... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Green Giant Buttress : Dreamer (5.9)
By: Johan When: Apr 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: We approached yesterday April 26 2015 and found the valley covered with patches of recent snow and much of the rock soaked from a wet week. There were waterfalls across the Green Giant Buttress, and slab-climbing was clearly a non-starter. We had sort of anticipated this (there were snow patched alongside the road in), but we were hoping to give the first few pitches a try. We had not accounted for how treacherous the final bit of the approach ("3rd class" slab) would be with all the wet rock. Y... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : The Globule : Jelly Belly (5.10a)
By: Johan When: Mar 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks Sergey, I updated the route.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Iron Horse P2 (5.10b)
By: Johan When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Blake for uncovering and promoting this moderate pitch! Haven't yet tried it, but as a heads up: the "Description" properly says that one reaches this pitch by traversing right from Princely. The "Location" currently says "traversing left from Princely", which is wrong.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Mount Erie : Main Wall : Raindown (5.10b/c)
By: Johan When: Dec 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As of 12/7/14 the third bolt is currently missing its hanger. There is a small undercling right by that bolt that may take a C3 cam (I don't know for sure, I was TR'ing). This may or may not be why somebody stripped the bolt hanger. Would be nice to get a hanger back on it, as the rest of the route is on bolts, and it seems silly to require gear for that one placement. It's listed in the guidebook as a sport route.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: Johan When: Aug 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this yesterday. I'm going to give the current conditions of the road, which will likely stay relevant through the next year of construction, and then some general comments.

The MF road is currently closed at the CCC trail trailhead, about 2.6 miles before the Taylor creek bridge. The closure meant that we biked in from the current closure point. The road is currently perfectly bikeable, but the planned roadwork over the coming weeks may interfere. We stashed bikes where the trail branches ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Enema (5.10d)
By: Johan When: Jul 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I was at Amazonia yesterday. I did not climb this route, but noticed the old log that used to lean against the cliff has now fallen down, in case that confuses anyone reading old descriptions of the wall.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Q.D. Pie (5.10a)
By: Johan When: Jun 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The third bolt, the one that protects the crux moves, had a spinning loose nut on it today, May 31, 2014. My partner hand-tightened it when she rappelled. It would be good to bring up a tool to tighten it with.

Also, consensus here on MP seems to be that the crux move on this route is harder than on Ten-ish Ooze, and I agree. Probably both 10b.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall : Der Ailed, derailed (5.11a)
By: Johan When: May 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm pretty sure Late for Dinner is the 11a to the left of Just Dessert, up on the ledge that can be approached by hiking around. The 10c approach to Late for Dinner is "Side Dish", listed here as part of "Side Dish + Just Dessert".

I think I saw the route you're describing here yesterday, that starts up very easy terrain (5.6? 5.5?) and then heads through the overhang, where a bolt has a chain extension. Would you say it goes at 11a? Looked cool, but don't know the name or grade.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall : Just Dessert + Side Dish (5.10c)
By: Johan When: May 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: While easy enough to link, for clarity (and consistency with the Bruce guidebook) it would probably be best to split these into two route listings: Side Dish 10c, Just Dessert 10a. The Bruce book gives JD 4 stars, SD 1 star, and for what it's worth, I'd agree. Just Dessert has great movement, while Side Dish was pretty awkward.


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