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Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!


Member Since: Sep 27, 2009
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 313 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 12 | Posts 2 | Stars 261 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Life and Debt

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Rocinha

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'

NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Jelly Belly

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (6)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'

CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : The Globule

Jul 30, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
A rope on High Motivation. The first two bolts are low angle, the rest is a steep pumpfest.

A rope on High Motivation. The first two bolts are low angle, the rest is a steep pumpfest.

CO : Telluride/Norwood area : ... : High Motivation (5.10)

Jun 22, 2013

Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!

Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Southeast Buttress (5.6)

Sep 26, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: Johan When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Did this yesterday. I'm going to give the current conditions of the road, which will likely stay relevant through the next year of construction, and then some general comments.

The MF road is currently closed at the CCC trail trailhead, about 2.6 miles before the Taylor creek bridge. The closure meant that we biked in from the current closure point. The road is currently perfectly bikeable, but the planned roadwork over the coming weeks may interfere. We stashed bikes where the trail branches ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Enema (5.10d)
By: Johan When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: I was at Amazonia yesterday. I did not climb this route, but noticed the old log that used to lean against the cliff has now fallen down, in case that confuses anyone reading old descriptions of the wall.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Q.D. Pie (5.10a)
By: Johan When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: The third bolt, the one that protects the crux moves, had a spinning loose nut on it today, May 31, 2014. My partner hand-tightened it when she rappelled. It would be good to bring up a tool to tighten it with.

Also, consensus here on MP seems to be that the crux move on this route is harder than on Ten-ish Ooze, and I agree. Probably both 10b.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall : Der Ailed, derailed (5.11a)
By: Johan When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: I'm pretty sure Late for Dinner is the 11a to the left of Just Dessert, up on the ledge that can be approached by hiking around. The 10c approach to Late for Dinner is "Side Dish", listed here as part of "Side Dish + Just Dessert".

I think I saw the route you're describing here yesterday, that starts up very easy terrain (5.6? 5.5?) and then heads through the overhang, where a bolt has a chain extension. Would you say it goes at 11a? Looked cool, but don't know the name or grade.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall : Just Dessert + Side Dish (5.10c)
By: Johan When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: While easy enough to link, for clarity (and consistency with the Bruce guidebook) it would probably be best to split these into two route listings: Side Dish 10c, Just Dessert 10a. The Bruce book gives JD 4 stars, SD 1 star, and for what it's worth, I'd agree. Just Dessert has great movement, while Side Dish was pretty awkward.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bowling to Biscuits (5.10d)
By: Johan When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I cleaned the first pitch of this yesterday, November 24th, 2013. Not deep-cleaned, but cleaned it in so much as I led it. It's a really great pitch, definitely worth doing if you venture up here for Peanuts, looking for moderates. Haven't tried the second pitch.

The move off the pedestal really does protect extremely well by a #5 BD nut. From the ground it looked like there was no placement in that crack, but by trusting the comments here and feeling adventurous, I headed up and used an... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Falls Walls
By: Johan When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: As of June 2013, the trail at the creek has a pretty substantial bridge/dam and does not require fording. There would have to be a sizable surge to knock it out. Don't expect to do any fording.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Falls Walls : Main Wall : How's My Driving (5.9)
By: Johan When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: Some of the hangers on this route spin. I tried to tighten to the bolts with a leatherman today, but they were all fully tightened. I wouldn't be concerned.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Falls Walls : Main Wall : Darwin's Rib (5.8)
By: Johan When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: The route can be both lowered and rapped with a 60m rope, did so today. The route wanders some to the right, but the route can not be more than 100 ft.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Johan When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I recently got a rope stuck on the rappel off of this route, at the notch right at the top lip. I noticed that a previous tick here on MP says the same happened to them. So: be mindful of your rope flossing that notch. It's definitely best to bring the knot down with you past the lip. Double 60m ropes will still get you down to the ground even if you bring the knot down past the lip in this way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Johan When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Top-roping non-beta: the Rocinha anchor can not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Johan When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Bailing beta: My partner are I started up this early on August 4th, but rain and thunder were moving in when we were on pitch 7 of the Supertopo 50 crowded variation, and while waiting at the piton belay at the start of pitch 8. From our position we were blind to the approaching weather from behind MC, and with the rock soaked (the rain having moved beyond a smattering), the thunder giving us the willies, and the prospect of a hairy descent down the back of MC (which would be our first time doin... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: app crashing on iOS 6iPhone & Android App FeedbackJohanMay 20, 2014
app crashing on iOS 6iPhone & Android App FeedbackJohanMay 19, 2014

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Eureka 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village

Never Never Land 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Double Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar...

Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route Mod. Snow

WA : Southwest Cascades : Mount Rainier

Maria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Clemenzo 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

South America : Argentina : ... : Torre Principal

Moby Grape 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area

Whitney Gilman Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area

Aires 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WA : Index : ... : Great Northern Slab

Something Interesting 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Retribution 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Nosedive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Kentucky Pinstripe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village

Loosen Up 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village

Air Guitar 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : ... : King Pins

Diedro de Jim (5) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja Frey

Sifuentes Weber 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja Frey

Del Diedro 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja M2

Socotroco 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja M2

Shockley's Ceiling 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Metamorphosis 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

High Motivation 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Pipeline Wall

Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Three Pines 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Sweet Polly Purebred 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

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