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Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!


Member Since: Sep 27, 2009
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Point Rank: # 6,180
Total Points: 38
Last Year: 23
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Areas are worth 15
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Johan

 
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Contributions


All (209) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (3) | Posts | Stars (180) | Ratings (22)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Life and Debt

5.8 (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet

NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Rocinha

5.10c (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Jelly Belly

5.10a (6)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Globule

Jul 30, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!

Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Southeast Buttress (5.6)

2 people

Sep 26, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Johan When: Oct 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I recently got a rope stuck on the rappel off of this route, at the notch right at the top lip. I noticed that a previous tick here on MP says the same happened to them. So: be mindful of your rope flossing that notch. It's definitely best to bring the knot down with you past the lip. Double 60m ropes will still get you down to the ground even if you bring the knot down past the lip in this way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Johan When: Sep 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Top-roping non-beta: the Rocinha anchor can not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Johan When: Aug 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Bailing beta: My partner are I started up this early on August 4th, but rain and thunder were moving in when we were on pitch 7 of the Supertopo 50 crowded variation, and while waiting at the piton belay at the start of pitch 8. From our position we were blind to the approaching weather from behind MC, and with the rock soaked (the rain having moved beyond a smattering), the thunder giving us the willies, and the prospect of a hairy descent down the back of MC (which would be our first time doin... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Sifuentes Weber 5.9-

International : South America : ... : Aguja Frey

The Groove 5.8 PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress

Bear's Reach 5.7

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall

Corrugation Corner 5.7

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Main Wall

Limelight 5.7

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Arrow 5.8

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Feast of Fools 5.10b

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Dolt 5.10a

NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands

Jolt 5.10b

NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands

Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 5.10b

NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Metamorphosis 5.8+

NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Ants' Line 5.9

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Southeast Buttress 5.6

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Cathedral Peak

Del Diedro 5.9

International : South America : ... : Aguja M2

Socotroco 5.10

International : South America : ... : Aguja M2

Nosedive 5.10b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Retribution 5.10b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Something Interesting 5.7+

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Never Never Land 5.10a

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Frog's Head 5.6

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Maria 5.6

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Snake Dike 5.7 R

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Half Dome

West Ridge, Mount Conness 5.6

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Mt. Conness

Whitney Gilman Ridge 5.7

NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area

Moby Grape 5.8

NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area

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