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Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!


Member Since: Sep 27, 2009
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Contributions


All (272) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (2) | Comments (7) | Posts | Stars (230) | Ratings (30)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Life and Debt

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Rocinha

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'

NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff

Sep 6, 2012

Jelly Belly

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a (6)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'

CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Globule

Jul 30, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
A rope on High Motivation. The first two bolts are low angle, the rest is a steep pumpfest.

A rope on High Motivation. The first two bolts are low angle, the rest is a steep pumpfest.

CO : Telluride/Norwood area : ... : High Motivation (5.10)

Jun 22, 2013

Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!

Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Southeast Buttress (5.6)

Sep 26, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bowling to Biscuits (5.10d)
By: Johan When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I cleaned the first pitch of this yesterday, November 24th, 2013. Not deep-cleaned, but cleaned it in so much as I led it. It's a really great pitch, definitely worth doing if you venture up here for Peanuts, looking for moderates. Haven't tried the second pitch.

The move off the pedestal really does protect extremely well by a #5 BD nut. From the ground it looked like there was no placement in that crack, but by trusting the comments here and feeling adventurous, I headed up and used an... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Falls Walls
By: Johan When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: As of June 2013, the trail at the creek has a pretty substantial bridge/dam and does not require fording. There would have to be a sizable surge to knock it out. Don't expect to do any fording.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Falls Walls : Main Wall : How's My Driving (5.9)
By: Johan When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: Some of the hangers on this route spin. I tried to tighten to the bolts with a leatherman today, but they were all fully tightened. I wouldn't be concerned.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Falls Walls : Main Wall : Darwin's Rib (5.8)
By: Johan When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: The route can be both lowered and rapped with a 60m rope, did so today. The route wanders some to the right, but the route can not be more than 100 ft.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Johan When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I recently got a rope stuck on the rappel off of this route, at the notch right at the top lip. I noticed that a previous tick here on MP says the same happened to them. So: be mindful of your rope flossing that notch. It's definitely best to bring the knot down with you past the lip. Double 60m ropes will still get you down to the ground even if you bring the knot down past the lip in this way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Johan When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Top-roping non-beta: the Rocinha anchor can not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Johan When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Bailing beta: My partner are I started up this early on August 4th, but rain and thunder were moving in when we were on pitch 7 of the Supertopo 50 crowded variation, and while waiting at the piton belay at the start of pitch 8. From our position we were blind to the approaching weather from behind MC, and with the rock soaked (the rain having moved beyond a smattering), the thunder giving us the willies, and the prospect of a hairy descent down the back of MC (which would be our first time doin... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Sifuentes Weber 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja Frey

Sweet Polly Purebred 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Peer Pressure 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

NH : Rumney : Bonsai

Ants' Line 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Bonnie's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Clemenzo 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

South America : Argentina : ... : Torre Principal

Double Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar...

North Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire

West Ridge, Mount Conness 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Mt. Conness

Regular Route 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Fairview Dome

Southeast Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Cathedral Peak

Three Pines 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Solar Slab 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Del Diedro 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja M2

Socotroco 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

South America : Argentina : ... : Aguja M2

Nosedive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Retribution 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Via das Italianos 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Never Never Land 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

The Wave 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress

When the Cat's Away 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Holiday Wall

Frog's Head 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Maria 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Snake Dike 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Half Dome

The Groove 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress

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