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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Listen to the comments above and climb emerald city to the second pitch of Over the Hill or as I refer to it now the "Emerald Hill". Great climbing!!
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : Primitive Paradox (5.9) : Photo
By: Joey Wolfe When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yep, first pitch topo line is not the first pitch of PP.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North : Shiva's Last Dance (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is a touch run out in places.
And don't get suckered right at the second small roof, pull right over the flake/edge of the small roof. I went too far right like a bonehead and it is a bad scene.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North : Puppy Ride (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: HEADS UP, as of 3/21/09 there is a huge tree hanging head first by a thread directly over this route. It blocks the upper half and looks really dangerous. Just be aware of this when passing below, hopefully it will come down by next fall.
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Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Stannard's Crack (5.8)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was up there again this last weekend and got on Stannard's. When i climbed it the first time i thought it was a sandbag but didn't want to add it to Mp.com with my opinion of the grade so i went with what the DCA claimed. Now there is a reprint of the DCA and it puts Stannard's at 5.9.
After climbing it again I feel confident in calling it a 5.9+, short but thuggish right off the deck and placing the gear in the crux is strenuous. Not to mention it holds a exposed position above the main fac... more >>
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Location: GA : Boat Rock : Underfling (V3)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe what i was calling tits is in fact 'underfling'.
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Location: GA : Boat Rock : Underfling (V3)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: you would know better than I. Also, when some one showed me 'tits' they told me it was a v3, i down rated it.
What ever you call it, it is a good problem. I'll try to get a pic next time I'm out there so we can confirm whether we are talking about the same problem and I'll delete 'tits'.
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Location: GA : Boat Rock : Underfling (V3)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeff, is this the same thing as the problem 'tits', between gaping crack and mantel in the sky?
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Photo
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: MORE!!!......please
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Location: NC : Ship Rock : Upper Tier : Edge of a Dream (5.6)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is a cheap thrill, get on it. I'd call the move around the arete harder than 5.6. You have to trust some thin feet for a move or two but you step around to easy terrain again and you have great gear. So enjoy the view and the exposure.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Cave Route (5.5)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st and 2nd pitch are one star, third pitch is three stars.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Daddy (5.6)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A must do for the leader of any level(well at least 5.6 leaders and up). Real adventure climbing with views big enough to swallow you whole. Don't forget to belay while drooling over the Gold Coast. Go as light as possible and plan to climb out unless you are doing a link up. This climb is alot of fun.
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Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Photo
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of what is in this photo, besides the main face, is too low angle for good climbing. the slab to left hand side(of the cluster of slabs) you actually scramble over to approach the(climber's) right hand side of the main face from the lowers. If you haven't ever headed up that way you should. You'll walk by some cool aid routes waiting to be freed, but they are not in this photo.
I have heard about some 'undocumented' routes in this area, but from what i saw from the air they would be few an... more >>
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : Flying Frog (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Joey Wolfe When: Dec 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Photo, makes my hands sweat
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Location: GA : Mount Yonah : White Wall : Return of The Jodi (5.10b/c)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, Jody
Which two were the original?
Thought I mention(for those who haven't lead it yet), even with four bolts I still place a cam (red metolious tri cam or similar) before I mantel up on the small ledge near the top after the crux. It tends to collect dirt and will feel insecure if it hasn't been swept off in a while.
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : Out in the Country (Into th... (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kyle,
Thanks for the info! I edit the route information.
JW
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Photo
By: Joey Wolfe When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, they came out alright for useing a point'n'shoot.
I took them from a friends Maule, a small bush plane.
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Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : The Buzzard Wall : Buzzard Breath (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: RadDawg, I'll agree. After I OS this I said to my partner, "Where was the 5.9?", his response was "You have been climbing at Sunset too much." So, I thought I was just was having a good day. This route is a blast and I really like the way it was bolted. A little heady after pulling the second bulge/steep section/crux, heading for the 'bolt in a dish'(which i didn't see until it was level with my shoulder) but safe.
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Bill's Route (5.8)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The V-slot, once your back is in, is a no hands rest. So don't let it intimidate you. It is awkward to get into and out of, but just relax and THINK. I thought it was just a touch PG-13 in a couple of places, typical Sunset finish.
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Location: courtney.vogt : random climbing photos : Photo
By: Joey Wolfe When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know what you mean
Rockn' it out
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Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Special Edition (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Sep 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this today and did not see a third bolt. Did not see where one use to be either. Thin gear; the two smallest ball-nuts, 000 c3, and 00 c3 protect the start. A 0 c3 and .4 C4 will protect you to the anchors after passing two bolts.
If you are headed up to the Second Overhang you can do it easily in one pitch with a 60m rope.
Highly enjoyable lead
edit:The guide book also says 'three' bolts, must have been a typo. LSD has three bolts and starts in almost the same spot, maybe... more >>
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset South : Dodge City (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Aug 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doubles in BD #2 and will take a #4.
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset South : Afternoon Delight (5.7+)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Aug 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finishes in a pretty good chimney with duel cracks in back, which seems rare at Sunset.
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Broemel's Route (5.8+)
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: a #4 does make the transition into the crack less mental.
There is a small crack a little higher that will take a blue alien if you don't have a #4.
Watch for the large flexing flake, before you exit the crack system for the face to the left, up high. Either bury one down low or as a buddy of mine does (i didn't) put a cam on both sides to pin it. This will make sense when you see it.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: Joey Wolfe When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Why did it have to be snakes....I hate snakes." -IJ
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