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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Bubo Tower : Bubo (5.7 R)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not consider the chimney exit too bad. I considered the 1st pitch more scary as the rock quality was suboptimum, the climbing somehow delicate technical and not clear, and hardly any pro.
I had only one 60m rope, so I abseiled inside the chimney to the beginning of the chimney where some abseil slings were to further get down.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Off Balanced Rock : Northeast Chimney (5.7 R)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the first belay, I crawled horizontally inside the chimney till I nearly got out on the other side, then stemmed up and finally went to the center of the chimney where the crack is. I wonder if I really should recommend that variant, but at least its possible.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first two pitches were fun, but the #6 and #5 camalots were useless. We failed on pitch 3 as we had forgotten the small cams and the 3rd belay was only one crap bolt instead of the two promised by the guidebook.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Finless Brown (5.10+)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is a bit akward because of the loose flake inside the crack. But further up its a great offwidth offering oportunities to practice hand-fist and double hand stack.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Real ow fun and a good workout. My information was that Andres Marin did FA this.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : King of Beasts (5.11+ PG13)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scary on lead, but good on TR. Chicken wing in combination with a knee bar is a good way to get up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unknown - route 23 (5.11-)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is now #26 in the 2nd edition.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 5.10 -Route 60 (5.10)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is #67 in the 2nd edition of the bloom guide.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11a/b)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Difficulty is to get over the constriction a the start, and the next meter where still the knee does not fit. Once it fits in, the thing is fun.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Desire (5.10) : Photo
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whenever will people learn that:
-also in OW friction at shoes is important, aproach shoes are not optimum.
-without high tops they will get their ankles trashed.
-Smearing with the right foot on the smooth wall is useless, try heel-toe in the crack instead.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Desire (5.10)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really nice training offwidth. The knee is good jamming nearly all the time, hand-fist stack and arm bar work both. Difficult is only the steeper lower part, when this ends it becomes easy. One #5 was enough for me, more gear just gets in the way.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Deseret Moon (5.11)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On TR I considered the direct start not really difficult, but on lead the thin pro might be rather awful.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would consider the 3rd pitch significantly the easiest of all pitches. To the first bolt it is easy stemming, past this and the second there are enough ledges and holds to consider this sport climbing or at worst a fun offwidth. Only the exit chimney was a bit burly as I did not fit in and had to climb this as ow, and therefore I would rate a 5.9. Kristina, who fit in, would not accept any rating higher than 5.8. A #6 camalot was useful to homogenize the pro after the 2nd bolt;... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Forgotten Tower : Photo
By: JoergB When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Berg Heil Route starts at the rightmost side.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Sparkling Touch (5.11)
By: JoergB When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: p1 and p2 may be good in one pitch, the start of p3 possibly best by traversing left. The description and topo in the Bloom guide are definitely wrong, from the pre-summit its maximum 5.8.
With a double rope, abseil is also possible straight down to the bottom of the chimney and then just walk out the south side.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Learning to Crawl (5.11)
By: JoergB When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Abseil is ok. There are 3 bolts connected by a multitude of slings for that.
I put a summit register on the top of thumbelina.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Ansaid Tower (5.7)
By: JoergB When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route for summit collectors. However not too long and friction climbing at the top.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Lizard Rock : Entry Fee (5.8 R)
By: JoergB When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice climb with resonable pro and rock quality. I don't understand the "R" rating.
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Location: International : Germany : Elbsandstein
By: JoergB When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best trad climbing area in Germany, worth visiting even from far away. About 1100 sandstone towers with more than 17000 routes.
Note:
-No chalk
-No metallic pro, no friends or nuts, knots and slings only.
-Toprope is deprechiated, the rock is very soft and easily damaged.
-No climbing on wet rock.
Route data bases and locals forums are found at http://www.teufelsturm.de and
http://www.sandsteinklettern.de/gebiet.php?gebietid=19 (german)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: JoergB When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this '91 and I remember that it should have even 3 pitches. I also did the 2nd pitch, and it was wider (fist and ow) but easier, so I did not mind that only one of my friends was usable as pro. The 3rd pitch was finger crack, supposed to be 5.11, and as I had absolutely no gear for that, I did not attempt it. There was another abseil bolt at the end of P2.
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