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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: Joe Lee When: 19 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: For me this was a unique climb. If it were longer, it would be classic. Great route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : The Eye (5.4)
By: Joe Lee When: 19 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is super fun. Most intimidating 5.1 I have ever done. Actually the only 5.1 I have ever done. What does 5.1 mean anyways?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rupley Towers : Bop Til You Drop (5.10 R)
By: Joe Lee When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Finally got the nerve to lead this one after TRing it a couple of times. Getting to the second bolt is the crux. If you fall before clipping the second bolt (and you don't push off) I agree that your ankles will end up at our knees if you hit the ledge. No problems doing the climb as one long pitch. Use long runners. And a single rack should work.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock- East Face : Bambi meets Godzilla (5.8)
By: Joe Lee When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Lots of variety. Solid. Only one recommendation. I would save a wide/cupped hand to fist piece for the upper crack.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Deflowered (5.7)
By: Joe Lee When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb (if you are an all-around climber). Super fun. Do start at the very base under the boulders. The chimney's sweet. And the finish is pretty exciting for "5.6". If The Bong is 5.4. I guess this can pass as 5.6.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : ... : Photo
By: Joe Lee When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing shot.
Just as amazing, your belaying not dropping the camera to grab the rope. I might have to try this technique to get some better shots.
Very nice.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Wind Wall : Space Cowboy (5.9+)
By: Joe Lee When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the grade, one of the best routes at Mt Lemmon.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Joe Lee When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb July 10, 2008 with a late start. At this time of the year, the crux is the hike in. Once there, temps were comfortable. Only did the first four pitches. Great climb.
On the second pitch, finish up the wide box/chimney. Build a gear anchor. And then move the belay to the right to a bolted anchor. As previously suggested.
On pitch four, there is an intermediate anchor consisting of two bolts on the arete before moving onto the left face. IMO, the anchor is optional. I pla... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Joe Lee When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb. If you finish on the last pitch of Too Tough To Die, you get five diverse quality pitches. Had as much fun on this as I did on TTTD, Absinthe, and Peacemaker.
As for grades, I'll go against the tide. I think you want to have a solid 5.9 leader in your team to put this one up safely. Just another opinion from the peanut gallery.
Must do climb.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Lost Hawk : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Joe Lee When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great steep slab route. Gets progressively harder the higher you go. Committing moves near the finish.
There are two sets of anchors on the top of the pinnacle. We used the lower set and I had no trouble pulling my rope.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Boot Hill : Cheers (5.10a)
By: Joe Lee When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great sustained steep climb. Nice incuts from start to finish. If you are looking for a good pump, look no farther.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - North Face : The Bong (5.4)
By: Joe Lee When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Andy is right on. For the grade, I would call it a stout route. And about at good as it gets. And the descent is awesome. The round trip package is about as good as it gets to a mini adventure.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Copperhead 5 (5.10 PG13)
By: Joe Lee When: Feb 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a wide burly finish. I think you will appreciate having an "old style #4.5"
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Blood Book (5.10-)
By: Joe Lee When: Feb 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route had a stream of water running down it when I arrived. Just a heads up. If it has snowed/rained recently, the route may be wet.
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Location: AZ : Camelback Mountain : The Headwall : Donamatrix (5.8+)
By: Joe Lee When: Jan 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool climb. More stemming than you would expect. Climb small notches and nubbins going in all directions making this a thoughtful 5.9. I don't think all the loose stuff has come off yet so climb carefully.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Streaker Spire : Original North Face Route (5.7+)
By: Joe Lee When: Jan 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I want to rave about every route I do but I can't really recommend this route. If you like summits, want to bulk up your oeuvre, or climb something new, definitely tick this one off. The first pitch is kind of cool. Fourth class to a ledge with a decrepit tree and set up a belay before starting. Get out your camera too. The rest of the climb has some strenuous and hard wide climbing. If you do this route, I would start with the traditional first traversing pitch. It's neat. As for the la... more >>
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: Joe Lee When: Jan 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing. Excellent.
Parking. F---- Sucks.
I wonder if anyone has ever petitioned the owner of the church to allow general parking during off-peak hours. The lot was empty during my visit.
For visitors, before you enter the gate, you can squeeeeeeze three vehicles on a pullout on the left before the gate. And maybe one car on a pullout before a sign just in front of the gate.
I recommend parking elsewhere and carpooling to the site to save space for your fellow climbers.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Upper Religion Wall : Broken Arete (5.9)
By: Joe Lee When: Jan 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another excellent pitch on this wall. No excuses to avoid this gem. The crux is tough and figuring out the sequence may be your undoing, like it was mine. Crux protects with a bomber tiny blue camalot.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Lower Religion Wall : Poop Chute (5.10-)
By: Joe Lee When: Jan 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun. The crux is maneuvering through a narrow slot. Really awkward. I did it right side in. My partner did it left side in. If you run up this thing, definitely finish with Broken Arete.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Nurd Rock : Desire (5.10 R)
By: Joe Lee When: Nov 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Superb route. Solid 10+. Christian put this one up for me. Impressive onsight.
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Overlook : Devil's Deed (5.9)
By: Joe Lee When: Sep 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Overlook has a plethora of fantastic 5.9's and this one is a definite must do. Wild climbing. No gimme.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Joe Lee When: Jul 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route. A clear test of nerves. Sustained in your face climbing. After you pull the bulge, you will find that the anchors are a ways to the right. Recommend that you bring extra gear to place a directional or build an anchor in a horizontal crack directly over the bulge.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Pillow Fight (5.10)
By: Joe Lee When: Jun 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really good climb. Crack starts wide and then gradually tapers down to off fingers. Get your toes in the crack to send the crux.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Fool's Game (5.9)
By: Joe Lee When: Jun 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: NOT your straight forward climb. Used almost every trick in my bag to get up this one. Makes for a stout lead.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Ship Of Fools (5.9+)
By: Joe Lee When: Jun 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet climb. The start is burly and committing. Had to use a knee bar to reach the good hold. The rest of the route climbs and protects nicely.
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