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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Candyland (5.10c) : Photo
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! What a memory! We lived at Lake Tahoe when my daughter was born, Phantom Spires was her first climbing trip; I did this route while she napped in her baby seat. Thanks for the pic...
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Troglodyte (M9) : Photo
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't he Peters' brother...?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Ariel (5.10d)
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember doing Ariel in '84, scared shitless. Years later I lived in Zephyr Cove and climbed it again with my wife, noticing that it had about twice as many bolts...much more fun that way.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : ... : Photo
By: Joe Huggins When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sure doesn't look like Rosholt to me...curly hair, bright colors, chalk bag...did John ever use chalk? I don't know, maybe he was having some kind of phase.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : Photo
By: Joe Huggins When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's great! I was working on the route with my wife belaying, as we heard those guys coming down the canyon. It was the week before the first Snowbird competition. Bob asked me (politely) to get the hell out of the way so Patrick could do the route. Bob fixed the draws (while Patrick looked the other way), and then Patrick proceeded to crush the route mercilessly; however, he forgot a sling to hang and thread- no problem, he downclimbed with as much grace and power, calmly collecting... more >>
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Location: MO : Elephant Rocks State Park
By: Joe Huggins When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although it has been a few decades since Elephant Rocks was my main area, I have to agree with Joes' assertion as to the fastest route. It's nice to reminisce about the 70's when we would drive down from St.Louis before dawn, drop some 'cid and boulder at dawn...Good Times!
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Joe Huggins When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Referring to my first comment;I led this (gardening on lead), long ago. The name is Karen O's Sweatpants, after a girl who looked real good in same, (dark blue). Don't ask me to go to the trouble of changing the name.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Born Under Punches (5.10a PG13)
By: Joe Huggins When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave Hague said he had a first ascent waiting for me on the West Ridge; so we walked up there and I started getting my butt kicked. 10a was hard for me in those days. Along come Joel and Clean Dan, at which point Dave invites them to have a shot; while I sputter-"but, but". So Joel shows us how it's done; and I suppose I've forgiven Dave for giving away my glory....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Buttonrock : River Wall II : ... : Photo
By: Joe Huggins When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Man! At the time Jrat was one of my roomates; he and Neil wanted people to wear their stuff. No true dirtbag climber would ever turn down free clothes.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: Joe Huggins When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this with Charlie Fowler in '86; we had every Camalot in existence at the time-all of the prototypes...nice rack! The crux was sheer terror, there were no bolts that were more than protruding, rusty pieces of junk; Charlie led that pitch; I passed the IQ test!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : The Shield (5.11 PG13)
By: Joe Huggins When: Jun 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting to see this here; of course after Kenny died the route got the name Psycho Killer due to Kens' seriously unstable personality. The story continued to get interesting after the accident; I won't risk being disrespectful in this post, suffice it to say perhaps there is such as thing as karma or destiny.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Diamond Dogs (5.10a)
By: Joe Huggins When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In January of '86 I was on the way to JT when I rolled my bus outside Glenwood, CO; landed upright in a field. When I got to the tree, I pedaled to the Hall of Horrors, where I onsight soloed Diamond Dogs; obviously I couldn't be killed. Years later, on a trip with my wife, I led it, recalling my earlier ascent and thinking, "you stupid SOB"...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Joe Huggins When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm late to the party here, as usual,but I recently climbed this. I was interested for many years in doing some routes on this face and I'm glad these guys finally got around to it; it was real good. That said, I did find the runout at the end to be arbitrary.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination Direct (5.12a)
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this pitch today, thin and technical past the first three bolts; truly a stellar pitch, three stars.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Derek-Tissima (5.12 X)
By: Joe Huggins When: Aug 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember feeling slightly crestfallen when Derek told me he had done the arete; I had put in my share of tries over many years. More than just a committed soloist, he was an excellent technical climber. Long live the King
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Teflon Wall
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if it's legal to climb; but I think it's worth noting that the fa was by the mad genius himself, Kyle Copeland.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Joe Huggins When: Apr 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny, I just checked this out because I had climbed there years ago. The name is Karen Os' Sweatpants, I did the first lead of this pitch with Jim Morrison, Marc Hirt, and Dave Hague sometime around '80 or'81. I gardened on lead and Jim tried the steep corner of the second pitch; however the heavy lichen was too discouraging with marginal pro.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Two Minute Warning (5.11c/d)
By: Joe Huggins When: Jan 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fred seems surprised at the need to stickclip the first bolt. We decided that this was the way to do it, as the crux is right off the ground; a lower bolt didn't make sense to us. Also, I was told by Mark Rolofson that he had added a bolt between our second and third bolts because some "5.12 climbers had gotten really scared". Imagine that, scary climbing!So I went up to check out his bolt; it seems to me that he placed it in the middle of a move(which isn't particularly hard... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Rainbow Wall (5.13a)
By: Joe Huggins When: Jan 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beta test?...The people who originally used the term had no idea about a beta test, the term definitely refers to the pre VHS video format; ask anyone who was climbing 20-25 years ago.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Take Five (5.12a)
By: Joe Huggins When: Jan 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm surprised to see the 12a rating on this; I called it 11c when we did it. Perhaps a return is in order.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Lower Triagonal (5.9)
By: Joe Huggins When: Feb 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, the name is Lower Triagonal, which makes sense if you look at the feature.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Joe Huggins When: Dec 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, for some reason I find myself looking at these comments again; I submitted one about a year ago, and many have appeared since. Mostly in defense I think, but it would be close. I'm not going to count. I guess what bothers me is the idea that climbing is just a sport. To me it's an art, a state of mind and being, a community with a long history, and definitely the most fun of all sports I've tried. After nearly thirty years at it, I'll be the first to tell you, I'm nowhere near th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: We must have been the last to climb the route before Willie and JC improved the second belay; a fine idea. As for the pin, it didn't scare me any more than it did 15 years ago, however, it seems that you could get a good Lowe ball in the scar just below it. And Tony is right, you can get a good, even bomber stopper above the pin if you have the strength and presence of mind to stem high. A large wire is very secure about two feet above the pin. Having written this, I want to say that I... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! The leap from 10c to 11b on these routes is intense. Perhaps I was suffering from cranial rectitus, but the 10bs and the 10c seemed underrated while the 11b and 12a were quite burley for their grades.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last Saturday I removed the last piton from the J crack. With two fingers; a Leeper Z, definite Hall of Flame material. By the way, if the .9 traverse unnerves you, do the headwall, even if it's too hard to free the gear is cheap and easy for casual yarding.
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