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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Dunce Rock : Unknown (5.7 C1) : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, I remember drilling that one. Totally bomber
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha, great story. That rap and jug must have been brutal for Chip.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Dunce Rock : Unknown (5.7 C1)
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I never thought anyone would go back and do this one! It is fun though, especially with OE as company. Jer and I did this one back in March 2007, Jer took the first pitch and I did the second. I believe this was what got us interested in using beaks.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Original Route (aka Gom Jab... (5.11a R)
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one again this past weekend with a 70m. We were able to link P1 and P2 to the tree island, P3 and P4 to the base of the 9+ one move wonder, P5-6 to the base of the "Changing corner's" pitch, P-7-8 to the crux. The crux to the base of the overhanging 5.10- exit pitch, then to jungle fest. Route went pretty quick, 4hrs from base to summit.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have any current info on any raptor closures?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: God I love the Fishers. Where else do you get such mystery clips? Maybe it is a dead bat wedged in there?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Feb 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a great photo.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Beaking In Tongues (5.8 A4) : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Feb 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: dude, I think that was the fourth pitch. The ledge is absent. I vividly remember hanging out in that belay for 5 or so hours.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Intifada (5.10 A5 X)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know how many ascents this has gotten and who did 'em?
Thanks,
Joe
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Original Route (aka Gom Jab... (5.11a R)
By: Joe Forrester When: Oct 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rack could do without the tricams. Also, the 5.4-6 traverse exit pitches really aren't all that great. I would recommend the more direct exit. It will save you some lichen time.
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Location: VA : Old Rag : Reflector Oven : Strawberry Fields (5.9+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Aug 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: PG13, honestly? Give me a break. You can get gear in anywhere on the climb.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for taking the time to replace the anchors. That must have been a helluva job. That fixed line has been up for at least 5 years. Did you replace the last bolt leading up to the summit block? I thought I remembered that one being a little suspect. Thanks again.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : The Flow (5.8 C1)
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben,
Sorry about the misprint. I think that everything except the bolt ladders should go free at 5.10 although I bet if the bolt ladder got a revamp some enterprising young rock-crusher could go up there and send the ladder. There are a lot of pebbles and mud-edges. You might also find some blue biners on Sundevil, I believe we left a few there too.
Joe
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : The Flow (5.8 C1)
By: Joe Forrester When: Feb 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the first clean ascent? of this w/ J. Aslaksen on 2/19/2007-2/21. Great line, should go free at ~5.10.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : The Tapeworm (5.9 A3 R)
By: Joe Forrester When: Feb 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: How are the rap stations down the bowel of the tapeworm? Did you rap the route?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Playing Hooky (5.10d C2)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found a talon hook to be usefull to hook past old drilled angle holes on the last pitch. Also, the first rap from the top was super sticky on the ropes, it is easier to do just a single rope rap first, then you can double it up and fly down that thing. A killer climb though, whether you free it or aid it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb also makes a fantastic easy clean aid climb. I was out there a week and a half ago, and took a friend up on his first aid climb ever and he had a great time. The placements are super straight forward, albeit you are swinging cams. Spectacular.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stand Up Comic (5.11+ X)
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As the above mentioned "partner of Barlow", I remain strong in my assertion that the flake would have held. That gear is no worse than any of the gear used for anchors in the Fishers. Barlow, stop your quibbling.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have any info on the South Face or South Face II routes on the monument? I was trying to find a topo but was having a hard time locating one. Also, if anyone has done the South face clean I would be interested to hear how it went.
Thanks,
joe forrester
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R)
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if there are rap stations from the bivy cave down to the trail so that ropes could be fixed to the bivy cave?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was really pretty impressive. Tri-cams were useful on the traverse pitch, pitch 4 if I remember correctly.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description for this route should be C2, NOT A2. It is not difficult to climb clean and it would be a bummer to give people the wrong impression.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R) : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: BOMBER!!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed West Side Story clean earlier this year. It wasn't too bad.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R)
By: Joe Forrester When: Dec 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts truly are very old on the first pitch. I couldn't help but laugh as I was climbing. This was a fun little climb and has less commitment than any of the fishers down river a bit. There is another variation that continues up the chimney on pitch 2 and then just traveses along the top of the tower. Climbers who are unfamiliar with archaic desert bolt ladders might find this climb to be a bit scarier than the typical c1 route. Be prepared for zest.
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