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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Skeletonic (5.11d PG13)
By: Joe A When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Eric Decaria (?)
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warrior 1 : Northeast Face of Warrior I (5.9)
By: Joe A When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe Josh got off-route on some 5.10 R/X when he went to go check his "notes".
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : Photo
By: Joe A When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: very cool
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Ram Implosion Wing (5.12)
By: Joe A When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=ram+implosion+wing
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Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Joe A When: Dec 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: http://tinyurl.com/5jgcq9
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a) : Photo
By: Joe A When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the flying lawnmower guy died. i think his name was terry and he crashed his flying lawnmower a couple years back. pretty sad, he was a nice dude but those rigs were damn annoying. he was getting tons of complaints from CV residents. haven't seen anymore flying lawnmowers since then.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Astro Lad (5.11a)
By: Joe A When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Staying in the corner is supposedly harder (11+) but I think it's less intimidating than breaking out left. Both variations are fun in their own way.
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Location: Ryan Fischer : climbing : Photo
By: Joe A When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ahhh, the switch.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Big Bend : Chaos Boulder : The Grim Reacher (V5)
By: Joe A When: Aug 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reacher Direct (V7) heads straight up instead of bailing out right to the block. FA Tait Rees
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Location: Blitzo : Images of Utah : Photo
By: Joe A When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: blitzo, you are the mp.com photo king, bar none.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : ... : Photo
By: Joe A When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i used my buddy's makita drill on a new route in hell roaring cyn. it was a little bigger than the dewalt (18 volt?) in that photo. i can't remember what model. i drilled four holes that day and it still had juice left at the rim, but it was navajo sandstone.
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Location: John J. Glime : climbing : Photo
By: Joe A When: Mar 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: sling that varmint, save the big peice for up higher
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : The Moratorium (5.11b)
By: Joe A When: Nov 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: seemed to me that of the first two 10d pitches, the second one worked me over way more. i felt like i was barely in there for the slappy moves to the anchors.
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Location: UT : Photo
By: Joe A When: Nov 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: crux is the last Moroni pitch. use the good mono-pockets/bullet holes and mantle the head. rap off the bugle
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+) : Photo
By: Joe A When: Oct 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahh...new screensaver!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: Joe A When: Sep 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: you can rappel from the summit anchors with one 70m rope. rapping from the summit keeps the rope out of the many deep (and possibly rope jamming) rope grooves near the top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: Joe A When: Jul 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: tea, doug was soloing half-a-finger on his epic fall. as for the other deaths on SC: one involved the leader getting heinous rope drag, untying(!) and trying to solo the last moves; the other was a rappel accident when a fixed pin atop the "first pitch" pulled, iirc.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street South : Skinwalker (5.11c)
By: Joe A When: Jul 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: a 60m rope DOES NOT reach the ground. you will end up with about ten to fifteen feet of sketchy downclimbing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Indecent Exposure Variation (5.7)
By: Joe A When: Jul 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: haul bag?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: Joe A When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: probably my favorite route at the creek. beautiful and long. the traverse is one of the wildest moves in the creek. so fun.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Wigglin' Worm (5.11)
By: Joe A When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pulling the roof is not as tough as it looks. this route keeps coming at you. excellent variety for a splitter crack. May seem not as classic with Pente and Slot Machine so close by, but definitely worthy.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Corner Route (5.12-)
By: Joe A When: Oct 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rack suggestion: 2x blue and yellow TCUs2x #1 - 3 Friends with extra #1.75 and #21x #3.5 - #4 Camalot for the first pitch hand traverse1x #4.5 Camalot
It would be a shame to skip the "sandy" first pitch hand traverse for a C1 pin ladder. One 60m rope will get you down.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : East Face (Sunflower Tower) (5.10+)
By: Joe A When: Oct 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent route. my favorite of the BJ's yet.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Joe A When: Nov 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: #00 tcu is nice to have on the crux pitch. pulling out of the stem box on the jugs is wild!!!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Near Mount Carmel Tunnel : The Headache (5.10+)
By: Joe A When: Nov 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: best three pitch route in zion. pay attention to perigrine falcon closures. we almost got ticketed due to the vague description of closure dates in the bjornstadt guide.
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