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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: .. and I've been known to take this stuff too seriously Jim. What's the alternative though? Was I supposed to just bite my tongue when I found out that 4 bolts were added to a route that originally had only 3? Not likely.
If you haven't already, you might want to read my first couple of posts - This has zero to do with ego and everything to do with sounding off about something that I think does harm to the sport.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That some vague statute of limitations is up for returning a route to its original FA state is just nonsense and that the local climbing community didn't take it upon themselves to chop the route is irrelevant . As Geir mentioned, most never knew how many bolts the original climb had or that bolts were added without the consent of the FA party. Ultimately, It's the first ascentionist's decision anyway and as I've mentioned above, I found out about the bolts long after the fact.
I think its ... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Go Easy Billy Clyde! (5.12a)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Jan 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps the best route name in the Red.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Jan 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to get the Tucson locals thoughts.
Jbak - Right on. I second everything you said in your last post.
Scott - Thanks. Just for the record, when I called in the route to Michael Jimmerson ( I think that was his name. its been 25 yrs ) I didn't give it an R rating. It was added in the supplement.
RyanJ - With regard to statute of limitations on removing hardware, in my opinion there isn't any. Hell, the compressor route was just erased and it was put up in 1970.
As far as what to do with ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of thoughts:
Geir, I really appreciate your input and offer of help with the removal of the added bolts. Although I would like to see the route returned to its original FA state it was not my intent in bringing up the subject here. I want to be clear that the route wasn't in any way some kind of statement - It's a little 5.9 that had some run outs. Probably R rated at most. I merely want to bring attention to something that I and a hell of a lot of other climbers feel very strongl... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since when is it okay to add bolts to an existing free climb let alone more than double the original count?!
Tom & I did this route safely with, I believe, 3 bolts and a few small nuts. It was a far more engaging little climb back when it was a bit of spicy lead - something for a 5.9/5.10 leader to aspire to. Now its just another sport route.
All routes do not have to be made uber-safe for the masses.
If you've clipped more than 3 bolts, sorry you've climbed Chihuahua Pussy not
Chihuahua Powe... more >>
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Geezer Pleaser (5.13d R)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Dec 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks guys. Here's a short video clip of a few attempts one day in November.
You've gotta love the audio!
youtu.be/vB92X3Bt5pM
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Bikini Whale (5.12b)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me, the redpoint crux was the bit above the last horizontal. With a pump, its powerful and difficult to read onsight. The little toss at the start didn't feel bad ( I'm 5' 10") and can be safely spotted. Nice lead with 3 bolts Kurt!
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : The Day After My Birthday (... (5.13a/b)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You mean no one even mentioned your casserole?
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : The Day After My Birthday (... (5.13a/b)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We're vincible.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : The Day After My Birthday (... (5.13a/b)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will, Have you ever been told that you look like a llama?
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : North Face Highlight Tour (5.8) : Photo
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used to love those Vasque Ascender boots too. Crude by todays standards but they were popular in the Tetons in the early 80's for doing the approach and the climb. Miss those mountains.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Flying Squirrel aka The Dia... (5.11b)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will and I climbed it today. Better than I had remembered and a good warm-up for the harder routes at the pond. Seems a little easier than say Lichen Delight on the Barber Wall. 10d/11a imo.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Moe Howard Died For Our Sin... (5.13a)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: He is the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father except through him, or so I've heard.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Desperation (5.10c)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the bolted line just left of BBB that leads up to a layback flake.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Desperation (5.10c)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice clean 5.7 face to a bolt protected one move 8+/9- step up at the layback.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In order to reduce the visual impact of the bolts at the pond in the more well traveled areas such as where the hiking trail is, I was planning on painting the hangers.
We used painted hangers on the route The Amazing Schlingazi just to the left of Desperation and if you weren't looking for them, you would hardly know that they were there.
Any thoughts, objections ?
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Mark, Yeah, the experienced climber bit sent me over the edge and was enough to get me to call the newspaper today and give them the real story.
Hey, At least I got to use my favorite line from the Big Lebowski.
Don't worry Jack - "Help's chopperin' in"
Hoping to take my 1st trip into Greens cliff this fall. Awesome looking stuff you've been doing up there.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Idiotic... inevitable...
It was only a matter of time before one of these clowns killed himself or was seriously hurt. Here's the story:
He was on the face called Son of Snake between The Roost and The Nose and was about 8 ft from the top when he fell. I was belaying Mark Richey on a route to the left called Geezer Pleaser when we heard him falling and his friends start screaming. Pretty grim hearing him bounce all the way down the face.
I quickly lowered Mark to the ground and rushed to the ... more >>
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Flying Squirrel aka The Dia... (5.11b)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if it was the FFA, but Karin Bates & I cleaned out the vegetation in the crack in 1992 and added the bolts after putting up Luna and Sicilian. Called it Flying Squirrel then after the critter that leaped out of the crack and glided into the trees on our first lead. I think it's probably 50' max as it starts uphill from Sicilian and Luna.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Caveat Emptor (5.10-)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa, Things are gettin real in the Death Canyon parking lot.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Rocket Man (5.13d)
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible line. I did the full route and have to agree with Mark. The upper wall, although not as clean as the lower stuff is still quite good. The climbing up there is along with Predator, probably the most exposed at Rumney.
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Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Moe Howard Died For Our Sin... (5.13a) : Photo
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like it's back to the testing ground with the shorts - wasn't entirely satisfied with the sensitivity. Thinking of maybe switching to a silk charmeuse or maybe something I've never even heard of.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Ginseng Route (5.12c) : Photo
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was scanned from a washed out duplicate slide. Tried to fix it but the color & contrast are definitely a little wacked. Peter was shooting photos of Brian Delaney, Jim Ewing and I for an old R & I article on NE sport climbing. Really fun first visit to the cliff for me.
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : Mt. Huntington : Photo
By: Joe Terravecchia When: Dec 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We lucked out that day George! It couldn't have been more spectacular up there, 10,000' above the clouds.
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