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on top of the Grand Teton


Member Since: Dec 3, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Joe Stern


Point Rank: # 512
Total Points: 1,202
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 0
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Stern been climbing?










Contributions


All 696 | Routes 54 | Areas 4 | Photos 101 | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 19 | Stars 265 | Ratings 196
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Climbing Skills : Proper Techniques for Grigr...
By: Joe Stern When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Video from Petzl, 2011:




Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Johnnie Big Mouth (V4)
By: Joe Stern When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Updated the name. Thanks for the info and great photo Kelly.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Koala Bear (V6)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Hey Arthur! This looks like it more or less follows the line of Key Largo, which is just left of Tokyo Joe.

It sounds like maybe you did a lower start and/or more direct finish to the V2 Key Largo. Either way, nice going!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: As noted by DisturbingThePeace, pitch 7 now has 16 good bolts (plus one vintage). Sure, you can skip a couple or back-clean, but the rock on this pitch is so-so and the pitch is kind of pumpy. So, maybe you want 13 draws, or 16, or 18, or some other random number of your choosing (depending on how far you're going, whether you're linking pitches, and if you're skipping/back-cleaning bolts).

Carried 4 med-large stoppers and a set of camalots #.3 to 1, which is exactly what I'll take next t... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing.

Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move.

Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappell... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : Sea Urchin (V2-)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: Way to motivate, Tyler, and thanks for a great description with photos! Perhaps most importantly, thanks for a mature and cool-headed response to the hate.

Richard, it's not like he woke you up and made you carry the pads out there! While I know you've established some nice lines recently (Lebowski area routes, in particular), I would respectfully submit that Santa Barbara has scant "greater pursuits" available. Seriously. If you'd be willing to share the location of the next Yard/Mouth quality... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Cold Springs Dome : Makunaima (5.11c)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: Support!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Silent Mind (5.11b)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: How to pull your rope from the route without getting it in the creek: the giant M

1. Climb "Cruiser" or "Cobble Climb."
2. Clean the Cruiser/Cobble Climb (C/CC) anchor and rappel.
3. Leave your rope in place through this anchor, with one end just touching the ground and a big pile of rope on the other end.
4. Take the big pile of rope over to Silent Mind (SM), tie into that end, and lead SM.
5. Follower climbs on the same end as the leader in this scheme, so the leader can unclip/reclip ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for properly equipping the arete, Matthew! Classic climbing and much more conveniently bolted than the 5.10c version of Goulara.

A #2 camalot (or other) adequately protects the start. Alternatively, a stick clip was stashed at the base as of 8-14-11 (or BYOSC). Although there are a few granitic cobbles en route, this climb of course ascends a section of conglomerate.

+1 for best 10a in Ventura, although it felt more like 10b to me (despite the original rating of 5.9).




Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Unless you're particularly keen on awkward bolt-clipping cruxes, the 5.10c version of this route (following the arete left of the bolts) should be forced into obscurity with the newly equipped Economique. Now you can climb the arete and clip bolts on the arete, which seems much more enjoyable. I imagine that Goulara will stand as a classic harder route following the more direct line of the first ascentionists up the face.

It's certainly worth taking along a #2 camalot or stick clip, depen... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Octopussy (5.10a)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: There are still many fragile features on this route, which is more an exercise in moving delicately than a commendable rock climb. Perhaps if it gets climbed more and cleaned up it could be a one-star route in the future, as the move off the ground is moderately entertaining. Add the short steep dirt/scramble to the base = bomb.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Protocol (5.11a)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Short but hard moves on occasionally sharp holds. Fun enough to hop on while you're there.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Incognito (5.11c)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Definitely the crag classic, due to the length and sustained nature of the route. And don't forget the hero finish on the arete!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Eye to the Sky (5.11b)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: The upper portion of this route hosts some of the best position at the Lookout. One of the crag highlights.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Double Agent (5.10a)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: The best of this little group of 10's, with a fun little roof finish. Shared anchor with Hidden Agenda.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Spy Games (5.10b)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Sequential finish over the bulge. Shared anchor with Espionage.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave
By: Joe Stern When: Jan 26, 2011

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Comments: I've been meaning to post something about this for a while...I just so happened to be up there on the day in question.

I wish I could recall the date, but I'm not so good with these things in general and there have been lots of Painted Cave trips that have blended together...November 2010 is my best approximation for now. I'll consult with the other folks I was with that day to see if we can fine tune that estimate, as it is sort of an interesting time marker in the area's history.

Andy, fear ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : The Ant Traverse (V5)
By: Joe Stern When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the comments/info Sean and Steve. I've updated the description to reflect these perspectives.

I should also add that my enthusiasm for this problem comes from its uniquely long, crimpy, and fairly sustained nature. The Ant is a quality boulder, and the medium difficulty traverses (also see the newly added Arachnophobia ) are just as good as the easier slab problems.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Arachnophobia (V3+)
By: Joe Stern When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: Spent a few minutes on this one last week after seeing it posted here: a nice harder (than the surrounding V0's) addition to the Ant.

Took me a few tries to piece together a sequence for the fairly abundant but tiny crimps. Seemed like the crux couple of moves were about as hard as anything on the Ant Traverse that I described here ...somewhere in the V3+ or V4 range seems right. I'm 5'8" and got a little bunched ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Why can't ya let 'em live? (V1)
By: Joe Stern When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: Also see the Entry Way Boulder overview photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Gun crazy (V0)
By: Joe Stern When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: Also see the Entry Way Boulder overview photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Crossfire (V2)
By: Joe Stern When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: Also see the Entry Way Boulder overview photo
and the Johnny Rocco/Crossfire beta photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Take Five (V4-5)
By: Joe Stern When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: Hey Matt...good to see some of your thoughts on SB up here. I believe your accolades rightfully belong on the Call Me page, though. Take Five is the short problem to the left of Call Me that starts high on those two nasty slopers.

Also, what do you think about this one ? V3 sound about right? I have no idea.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Yellow Belly (5.10-)
By: Joe Stern When: Jul 11, 2010

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Comments: Also pretty common to just V0 it...the top is mellow. Fun moves!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : Sunset Boulevard
By: Joe Stern When: Jul 11, 2010

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Comments: Sunset Boulevard

3-Move Arete
1. 3-Move Arete aka Nice Moves, V5

A Steve Edwards Project Boulder
2. A Steve Edwards Project, V5

Call Me Boulder
3. Call Me, V4
4. Call Me (right), V7
5. [[Take Five, V4-... more >>


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