Comments: As noted by DisturbingThePeace, pitch 7 now has 16 good bolts (plus one vintage). Sure, you can skip a couple or back-clean, but the rock on this pitch is so-so and the pitch is kind of pumpy. So, maybe you want 13 draws, or 16, or 18, or some other random number of your choosing (depending on how far you're going, whether you're linking pitches, and if you're skipping/back-cleaning bolts).
Carried 4 med-large stoppers and a set of camalots #.3 to 1, which is exactly what I'll take next t... more >>
Comments: As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing.
Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move.
Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappell... more >>
Comments: Way to motivate, Tyler, and thanks for a great description with photos! Perhaps most importantly, thanks for a mature and cool-headed response to the hate.
Richard, it's not like he woke you up and made you carry the pads out there! While I know you've established some nice lines recently (Lebowski area routes, in particular), I would respectfully submit that Santa Barbara has scant "greater pursuits" available. Seriously. If you'd be willing to share the location of the next Yard/Mouth quality... more >>
Comments:How to pull your rope from the route without getting it in the creek: the giant M
1. Climb "Cruiser" or "Cobble Climb." 2. Clean the Cruiser/Cobble Climb (C/CC) anchor and rappel. 3. Leave your rope in place through this anchor, with one end just touching the ground and a big pile of rope on the other end. 4. Take the big pile of rope over to Silent Mind (SM), tie into that end, and lead SM. 5. Follower climbs on the same end as the leader in this scheme, so the leader can unclip/reclip ... more >>
Comments: Thanks for properly equipping the arete, Matthew! Classic climbing and much more conveniently bolted than the 5.10c version of Goulara.
A #2 camalot (or other) adequately protects the start. Alternatively, a stick clip was stashed at the base as of 8-14-11 (or BYOSC). Although there are a few granitic cobbles en route, this climb of course ascends a section of conglomerate.
+1 for best 10a in Ventura, although it felt more like 10b to me (despite the original rating of 5.9).
Comments: Unless you're particularly keen on awkward bolt-clipping cruxes, the 5.10c version of this route (following the arete left of the bolts) should be forced into obscurity with the newly equipped Economique. Now you can climb the arete and clip bolts on the arete, which seems much more enjoyable. I imagine that Goulara will stand as a classic harder route following the more direct line of the first ascentionists up the face.
It's certainly worth taking along a #2 camalot or stick clip, depen... more >>
Comments: There are still many fragile features on this route, which is more an exercise in moving delicately than a commendable rock climb. Perhaps if it gets climbed more and cleaned up it could be a one-star route in the future, as the move off the ground is moderately entertaining. Add the short steep dirt/scramble to the base = bomb.
Comments: I've been meaning to post something about this for a while...I just so happened to be up there on the day in question.
I wish I could recall the date, but I'm not so good with these things in general and there have been lots of Painted Cave trips that have blended together...November 2010 is my best approximation for now. I'll consult with the other folks I was with that day to see if we can fine tune that estimate, as it is sort of an interesting time marker in the area's history.
Comments: Thanks for the comments/info Sean and Steve. I've updated the description to reflect these perspectives.
I should also add that my enthusiasm for this problem comes from its uniquely long, crimpy, and fairly sustained nature. The Ant is a quality boulder, and the medium difficulty traverses (also see the newly added Arachnophobia ) are just as good as the easier slab problems.
Comments: Spent a few minutes on this one last week after seeing it posted here: a nice harder (than the surrounding V0's) addition to the Ant.
Took me a few tries to piece together a sequence for the fairly abundant but tiny crimps. Seemed like the crux couple of moves were about as hard as anything on the Ant Traverse that I described here ...somewhere in the V3+ or V4 range seems right. I'm 5'8" and got a little bunched ... more >>
Comments: Hey Matt...good to see some of your thoughts on SB up here. I believe your accolades rightfully belong on the Call Me page, though. Take Five is the short problem to the left of Call Me that starts high on those two nasty slopers.
Also, what do you think about this one ? V3 sound about right? I have no idea.