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Rock Climbing Photo: on top of the Grand Teton


Member Since: Dec 3, 2007
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Joe Stern

Joe Stern
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Point Rank: # 495
Total Points: 1,460
Last Year: 298
Last 30 Days: 0
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Stern been climbing?










Contributions


All 888 | Routes 63 | Areas 6 | Photos 134 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 29 | Stars 333 | Ratings 253
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street North : King's Hand : Unknown Crack (5.10)
By: Joe Stern When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Pretty sure this is not an FA.

Desert Rock (the blue one) includes three routes in the right-facing corners under the King's Hand. I think one of them is called Mormon Tea. I don't have my copy with me and won't for another few months, or I'd check the details now.

Good on you for exploring though! I love that Moab has such obscure (and even moderate) routes so close to town and the road.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Tombstone : The Epitaph (5.10+)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: A small nut protects the opening moves fairly well. Other than that, double set of cams from .4-4, with an extra #2 and 4-5 total #3's, optional #5. The first belay can be backed up with as many #3's as you want to place.

Not sure why Karl's book recommends 2x70m ropes for the rappel from the top of P2. 2x60m works fine. If you don't mind star drives and quarter inch SMC bolts, you could probably get down with one rope (70m?) and two rappels.

We found pitch three to be... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Gooney Bird : Tea Party (5.10+ PG13)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Added a 1/2" x 4.75" SS bolt to the summit rappel anchor today. All three sets of anchors on the bird now have two good bolts. The hanger on the right bolt at the top of P2 is spinning a bit, but the bolt is good. Bring the usual bit of webbing or cord to replace any unappealing tat.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : Shabazz Palace
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The "short, broad side canyon" that contains this route is called the Alcove in Karl's book. Access to the Alcove is restricted from April 1 - August 15 for bighorn sheep lambing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Isolated Climbs : Farm (5.10+)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Rack: (1) .75, (3) 1, (3-4) 2, (3-4) 3, (1) 4.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Camalot Wall
By: Joe Stern When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Justin! I changed the FA info on the page and contacted EO for more details.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Moonflower Canyon : Unknown (5.10- R)
By: Joe Stern When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: Known by some as the french fries. Probably has other names too.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Joe Wilson Canyon : King Arthur's Seat (5.8)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 25, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 1. First bolt was good. I added a hanger to the second bolt. There is also now a third bolt on this pitch, which nicely protects the follower on the last sandy mantle before gaining the ledge that leads to the chimney. Belay from good cams at the first ledge above the chimney.

Pitch 2. First hangerless pro bolt was sticking out about 1.5 inches and was very loose. I removed this bolt and placed a new one a couple feet to the right and a little bit higher. I added a hanger to the second bo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Zippy Zebra Wall : Zippy Zebra (5.10a)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Rack: 1-2 sets of finger-sized cams, triples from .5-3, single #4. It's kind of a long pitch, and it's Entrada.

I belayed from above off boulders and bushes to the right of the route, then we strolled over to the 3-piton anchor to the left to rappel. Bring webbing or chain. Single 70m was plenty for the rap.

Very good...for Arches.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Testes : Left Nut (5.9)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb for those who enjoy the little piles in Arches. Double set of cams to #3, could have used a few nuts. Single 70m rope for rappel.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Middle Earth : Fear and Loathing in Choss ... (5.11-)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 7, 2016

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Comments: Any chance this is War on Drugs (5.10c) from DR2? The length doesn't match but everything else seems to. Or is War farther to the right, on the wall with abundant petroglyphs right above the dino track boulder?

Either way, kind of a fun, bouldery, unique start. Worth doing for the minimal effort required.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Middle Earth : Unknown (5.9)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 7, 2016

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Comments: Not sure if this is Shrubhead Ranger from DR2 or a newer route that hasn't been published. Happy to update the page if anyone knows more.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Potash Sanction (5.11a)
By: Joe Stern When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: New BD #6 is better than old #5 for the layback above the bolt. For added security, you can also place a #4 (new or old) near the top of the wide layback crack. Single set fingers, doubles .75-3.


Location: Climbing Skills : Proper Techniques for Grigr...
By: Joe Stern When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Video from Petzl, 2011:




Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Johnnie Big Mouth (V4)
By: Joe Stern When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Updated the name. Thanks for the info and great photo Kelly.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Koala Bear (V6)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Hey Arthur! This looks like it more or less follows the line of Key Largo, which is just left of Tokyo Joe.

It sounds like maybe you did a lower start and/or more direct finish to the V2 Key Largo. Either way, nice going!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11b/c)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: As noted by DisturbingThePeace, pitch 7 now has 16 good bolts (plus one vintage). Sure, you can skip a couple or back-clean, but the rock on this pitch is so-so and the pitch is kind of pumpy. So, maybe you want 13 draws, or 16, or 18, or some other random number of your choosing (depending on how far you're going, whether you're linking pitches, and if you're skipping/back-cleaning bolts).

Carried 4 med-large stoppers and a set of camalots #.3 to 1, which is exactly what I'll take next t... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing.

Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move.

Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappell... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : Sea Urchin (V2-)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: Way to motivate, Tyler, and thanks for a great description with photos! Perhaps most importantly, thanks for a mature and cool-headed response to the hate.

Richard, it's not like he woke you up and made you carry the pads out there! While I know you've established some nice lines recently (Lebowski area routes, in particular), I would respectfully submit that Santa Barbara has scant "greater pursuits" available. Seriously. If you'd be willing to share the location of the next Yard/Mouth quality... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Cold Springs Dome : Makunaima (5.11c)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: Support!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Silent Mind (5.11b)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: How to pull your rope from the route without getting it in the creek: the giant M

1. Climb "Cruiser" or "Cobble Climb."
2. Clean the Cruiser/Cobble Climb (C/CC) anchor and rappel.
3. Leave your rope in place through this anchor, with one end just touching the ground and a big pile of rope on the other end.
4. Take the big pile of rope over to Silent Mind (SM), tie into that end, and lead SM.
5. Follower climbs on the same end as the leader in this scheme, so the leader can unclip/reclip ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for properly equipping the arete, Matthew! Classic climbing and much more conveniently bolted than the 5.10c version of Goulara.

A #2 camalot (or other) adequately protects the start. Alternatively, a stick clip was stashed at the base as of 8-14-11 (or BYOSC). Although there are a few granitic cobbles en route, this climb of course ascends a section of conglomerate.

+1 for best 10a in Ventura, although it felt more like 10b to me (despite the original rating of 5.9).




Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Unless you're particularly keen on awkward bolt-clipping cruxes, the 5.10c version of this route (following the arete left of the bolts) should be forced into obscurity with the newly equipped Economique. Now you can climb the arete and clip bolts on the arete, which seems much more enjoyable. I imagine that Goulara will stand as a classic harder route following the more direct line of the first ascentionists up the face.

It's certainly worth taking along a #2 camalot or stick clip, depen... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Octopussy (5.10a)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: There are still many fragile features on this route, which is more an exercise in moving delicately than a commendable rock climb. Perhaps if it gets climbed more and cleaned up it could be a one-star route in the future, as the move off the ground is moderately entertaining. Add the short steep dirt/scramble to the base = bomb.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : The Lookout : Protocol (5.11a)
By: Joe Stern When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Short but hard moves on occasionally sharp holds. Fun enough to hop on while you're there.


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