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Rock Climbing Photo: Warming up


Member Since: Oct 1, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Joe Stark

Point Rank: # 1,486
Total Points: 509
Last Year: 132
Last 30 Days: 1
17 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Stark been climbing?










Contributions


All 219 | Routes 15 | Areas 3 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 33 | Posts 47 | Stars 59 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Ice Cave Wall
By: Joe Stark When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: From the topo in Shawn Kintzle's Wild Iowa book:

Right of Dirty Lid there are two cracks. The first is called Dingleberry Lane .6 off width crack. The second is College Try .5 off width crack.

There is another crack between the Ice Cave and Balanced Rock that goes at .7. Also one just right of Angst that goes .6. Both are listed as Unknown name.

This is all info taken from an out-of-print guide book and not learned or heard first hand. Use it as you will.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Chicago Wall
By: Joe Stark When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: A few thoughts.

Whether you are climbing or belaying, wearing a helmet is always a good idea.

New routes will always have a bit of rockfall. A competent developer should take the time to remove loose rock in an effort to keep belayers as safe as possible. However, these routes are on limestone and erosion is constant.

If you are a spectator you should NOT be under an active climber. People at the crag need to have situational awareness. Anything kicked or pulled off the route is going to f... more >>


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Chicago Wall
By: Joe Stark When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Three new routes in the 11a range. All open and ready for action.


Location: IA : Joinerville (bouldering onl...
By: Joe Stark When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: There's still plenty of unclimbed rock out here.


Location: IA : Photo
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: It looks like climbing isn't allowed at Mines of Spain. This is copied from the Iowa DNR website.

Climbing or rappelling is not permitted at the Ledges State Park, Boone County; Dolliver State Park, Webster County; Wildcat Den State Park, Muscatine County; Mines of Spain Recreation Area, Dubuque County; Maquoketa Caves State Park, Jackson County; Elk Rock State Park, Marion County and Stone State Park, Woodbury and Plymouth counties

h... more >>


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : To Di For (5.7)
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Better description: 25' - two bolts to rap hangers.

Straightforward movement on bullet vertical stone.


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Bone Yard (5.10a)
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Better description: 45' - four bolts to rap hangers.

First route right of Happy Toes traverse. Starts from the ground. Crux move pulling the bulge. Finish vertical to slab.

Not a bad route. Would clean up with regular traffic.


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Big Muddy (5.10a)
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Best 10a at the crag. Fun moves the whole way up. Wasn't very dirty. Nothing a lil brush action couldn't fix.


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : To Di For (5.7)
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: It tightened down. Good to go.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: Joe Stark When: Oct 23, 2015

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Comments: The other side of the river is part of Pictured Rocks, but currently is off-limits for climbing.

The Iowa Climber's Coalition has been working to expand the area available to climbing at Pictured Rocks. Hopefully the other side of the river will one day be on the plate.


Location: IA : Joinerville (bouldering onl... : Alcove boulder : Tuck your sack back (V0)
By: Joe Stark When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Tuck Yer Sack Back


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: Joe Stark When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: All anchors in Pictured Rocks have been recently checked. Bad bolts were replaced and existing hardware was painted. There is a climbing management committee that works with the DNR to maintain the bolts and trails.

The Iowa Climber's Coalition has been hosting annual trail building days as well. Many of the trails & belays have received facelifts. The park is starting to look great. New walls and new routes are on the horizon.


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : 187 Crag
By: Joe Stark When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: There are two closed projects on the wall closest to the approach trail. They are the leftmost route & the route second from the right. Please give the developers time to complete their projects. Thank you.


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Golden Showers (5.12a)
By: Joe Stark When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: They'll get taken care of this week. Thanks for the heads-up, Andrew!


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall
By: Joe Stark When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: From L to R:

Wild Iowa, Kiss of the Prince, Territorial Pissings, Soul Ignition, Bird In Hand, Hot Tamale, Gotz Crack, Hungry to Do, Virgin Lemonade, Atropine, another crack, Peek-a-boo (TR line)


Location: IA : Backbone State Park
By: Joe Stark When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: That is correct, Tyler.


Location: IA : Wildcat Den (respect closur...
By: Joe Stark When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: Copied from the Iowa DNR website:

Rock Climbing or Rappelling

Free climbing, and climbing or rappelling activity which uses bolts, pitons, or similar permanent anchoring equipment or ropes, harnesses, or slings is prohibited in state parks and recreation areas, except by persons or groups registered with the person in charge of the area. Individuals participating with groups must each sign a registration form before climbing or rappelling.

Climbing or rappelling is not permitted at the Ledge... more >>


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Comic Gallery : The Buddha (aka Turn Me Loo... (5.10b)
By: Joe Stark When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Steep jug haul. Fun climbing. Just as good as Virgin Lemonade. Surprised more people don't give it props.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Chicago Wall : Empty Pockets (5.11c)
By: Joe Stark When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: I think this is an awesome line. Definitely a few hard moves, but the sequence is rad.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall : Bird in Hand (5.11b)
By: Joe Stark When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: This route is maybe twenty-three feet tall. I was able to touch the anchors with a twelve-foot stick-clip when standing on the rocks directly beneath the anchors.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall : Kiss of the Prince (5.11b)
By: Joe Stark When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: This route is only about twenty feet tall. I was able to touch the anchors with a twelve-foot stick-clip!


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall : Wild Iowa (5.11b)
By: Joe Stark When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: This route is only about twenty feet tall. I was able to touch the anchors with a twelve-foot stick-clip!


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Gravity Amp (5.12a)
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 21, 2012

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Comments: Right on. I'm just passionate about maintaining and even expanding access to Iowa's sport areas. The potential for further development within the state is huge. We just need to show that our community can maintain the areas we climb at with a low impact approach.
The chains really do cause a visual impact and the hooks (while strong) are not rated and shouldn't be used when quality, rated equipment can be used in its place.


Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Windy Point : The Dispossessed (5.9)
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: This route has been cleaned up and the bolts have been moved to safer placements right of the original line.

Trespass 2.0 - 6 bolts to rap ring anchors.


Location: IA : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff : Gravity Amp (5.12a)
By: Joe Stark When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: Those chains are an eye sore in an access-sensitive area. Also the hooks on the ends are made from cast steel. Not safe or intended for supporting human life. Hoot nearly had all the bolts chopped a few years back. Putting up hardware store gear that could cause an accident is a surefire way to have access put on the chopping block.

We need to remember that the land managers (DNR, County Conservation) want these areas as 'natural' as possible. So hangers and anchors need to be camouflaged with ... more >>


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