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Member Since: Apr 21, 2007
Last Visit: Nov 26, 2012
Contact Joe M


Point Rank: # 2,217
Total Points: 256
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe M been climbing?










Contributions


All 413 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 56 | Posts | Stars 180 | Ratings 142
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Nine Pins (5.10c)
By: Joe M When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: The start of this route is now buried up to the bottom of the flake. I was just there this weekend and was amazed to see the first bolt at chest height! That was a LOT of rock!


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Shakers : Pointy Little Devil (5.8)
By: Joe M When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Thats a pretty weak route description for such a great route


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Meat Counter : Foreskin (5.5)
By: Joe M When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: This route is listed as 5.8 in the Rushmore climbing guidebook.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Hornets Nest : Second Hand Rose Arete (5.6)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: This is such a great route! THis is especially great for those who love a "little" exposure, just look off to your left when going up the rib!


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bull Rock : Dirty Earnie (5.7)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: This is a really fun climb with a few weird moves. Last time I climbed it was in July 2009 and the anchors were loose and pretty scary. They need to be replaced.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Euphamiah Beresford Memoria... : 1902 (5.10d)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: This will get three stars once it gets cleaned up fromtraffic. But for now it is dirty and sandy. I also knocked a LARGE rock off it while being lowered. BEWARE rockfall!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Land of the Shorties : Jawbone (5.10c)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: This will be a much better route once it is cleaned up and the loose rock/holds are gone if it sees more traffic.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Light Bulb Buttress : red hooks for red eyes (5.10a)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: Fun route. Great as a warm up for Goatsmilk!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Breakfast Wall : Beggar's Banquet (5.8+)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: This is a good, fun route. Great as a warm up for the area.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Big Picture Wall : Slaughterhouse Five (5.11a)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: This is a great route! Really fun! I never get tired of this one.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Big Picture Wall : Better Off Dead (5.10c)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: Good route, but has some tricky spots. Worth doing at least once though.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Big Picture Wall : Beauty and the Beast (5.9)
By: Joe M When: Jun 8, 2010

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Comments: I thought the beginning was a little sketchy for a 5.9 and its so short its almost not worth doing, except maybe to set up a TR for the route next to it.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Euphamiah Beresford Memoria... : July 4th (5.10a)
By: Joe M When: Jun 5, 2010

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Comments: This is definitely a must do route!!! There are now 11 bolts plus the anchors.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Lenticular Dome : Mental Physics (5.7+)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: Such a great route! Definitely a must do. Very well protected. Most of the moves are probably 5.6 (with only a couple 5.7 thrown in), but given how continuous and sustained it is, I think it deserves a solid 5.7.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: An ok route. Very similar to many climbs at Mt Rushmore in the Black Hills, SD. Would go as 5.8 there. BTW... thats not quartz on the route, its feldspar (sorry, the geologist cant let that go unsaid!).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Eschar (5.4)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: I found it difficult to get a good piece in until I got to the horizontal crack. Otherwise an ok clmb. Great fist jams up high!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Cranny (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face : Filch (5.5)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: I thought this felt a lot easier than 5.5, but I enjoy wide, akward cracks! Although big gear looks good for the bottom section, I found small placemnts to be bomber. The upper hand crack section was also a lot of fun!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: Although the pro on this is really good and you can really sew it up (I did), the 5.7 rating is definitely old-school. The start is definitely protectable, but still a little spicey! Fun route though, will definitely do it again!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Dam - Back Side : Pieces of Eight (5.9+)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: Dont fall once you arfe past the last bolt! We set up a top rope after doing Better Than Pool and Pie. Thats probably the best and safest way to do this route.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Dam - Back Side : Better Than Pool and Pie (5.6)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: The most difficult part of this route is trying to decide which hold to use... there are so many of them!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: Definitely my favorite route in the whole Needles area so far and probably in the top 3 for the entire Black Hills!!! This is a MUST do for anyone who like trad. You can pretty much sew it up the entire way and shouldnt need anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I used hand jams most of the way up and had no prblems with it. Cant wait to do it again!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5)
By: Joe M When: Aug 27, 2008

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Comments: Very fun route indeed! I just wish there were more technical pitches and not so much scrambling. We had some difficulties following the route but made it to the summit anyway, probably creating our own variations. Cant wait to go back!!!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : La Vaca Peligrosa (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Jul 7, 2008

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Comments: Was just out there two weeks ago, didnt do it but saw it. The bolts were either replaced or never chopped. Looked fun though.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Ken's Crack (5.7+)
By: Joe M When: Jun 3, 2008

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Comments: A very fun crack climb. One of the few lines Ive done so far at the Traps that can be done entirely using crack techniques. A must do.


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