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Member Since: Dec 28, 2005
Last Visit: Jul 1, 2013
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All (97) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (30) | Posts | Stars (48) | Ratings (11)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : This and That Cliff : Whim (5.9)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: This climb is great fun. Unfortunately, it is not as filthy as advertised, nevertheless it is still well worth your time. The rock is a little flakey, but nothing terrible. If it saw more traffic, which it deserves, it would clean up nicely. We finished right, but if I did it again I would finish left, just looks better that way.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch... (5.10c)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: This is a fantastic pitch. It has varied jamming, fun moves, and good pro. I found a 00 TCU protected the last eight feet very well, although I am sure you could get a nut in up there.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cottage Domes : West Cottage Dome : Cottage Cheese (5.10a/b)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route with good pro that deserves more traffic.

Gear and General Beta:
I do not remember placing anything larger than a #2 Camalot on the first pitch. You do not need to set up a belay and move it at the top of the first pitch - just put in a direction and go on over and set a belay up below the start of the second pitch. As advertised in the description above, there are a lot of gear options for the belay at the top the first pitch.

The first 15 feet of the second pitch ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Seams to Me (5.10c)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route.

I do not agree with the gear beta. You will want 2 #2s for the lower part of the route. If I recall, the route liked large finger sized cams, so triple up in that size if you want to stitch her up.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Buster Brown (5.10b)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: Gear Beta: If you want to stitch the top of the climb up, save a 1, 2, 3, 3.5, and 4 Camalot. I would go heavy on the big gear, 3s and 4s because there are some spots on the lower and middle parts of the route that protect best with a 3 and a 4. You could get away with other stuff, but it does not sound (tap) as good. Decent route. The top is the good part.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Space Truckin' (5.10a)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: Sometime within the last year the bolted anchor shown in Supertopo at the top of Space Truckin' was chopped and a new anchor was put in about 40 feet higher at the top of the cliff. The old anchor was about 70 feet up. The new anchor is around 110 feet up. You now need a 70M rope to TR the route or lower off of it. If you have a 60M you can lower to the ledge about 15 feet off the deck where the 10D begins and down climb from there.

For the upper part of the route past where the old anchor was,... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Holdless Horror (5.7 PG13)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 23, 2009

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Comments: I do not agree with the PG13 designation. I hate runout and I do not remember any on this route.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: Can anyone comment on how far apart the bolts on the 5th pitch are? How hard is the climbing between the bolts?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : New Dimensions (5.11a)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 13, 2009

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Comments: The thin hands at the bottom of the last pitch felt rather hard to me until I did a combo of using the hand crack and some chimney action in the flaring corner.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: I am surprised no one has mentioned this, so I will. Toward the top of the second pitch the crack is choked with some loose rocks and blocks. I stood under them for a few minutes and tapped them and looked at them and tapped at them and said to hell with them and went left onto the face to avoid them. If you pull one of these off, there is a good chance your belayer is going to get it. The face climbing on the left is more like a ramp and I dont think any move was harder than 5.7 and it can be p... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: This approach has a couple of exposed 4th class moves on it. If you are not comfortable with that, I would rope up for it.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Mystic and the Mulchers (5.8-)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: I do not agree that the pro on this route is great. The pro is decent. The climb is not quite runout, but the crack is discontinuous and you may have to go 15 to 20 feet above a piece before you get another good spot to set pro. There is some hollow sounding rock on the route, and I avoided some holds that looked good but did not pass the tap test. I would recommend this climb to people who are very comfortable on 5.8. Also, the crux at the end of the route is protected by a bolt. When you are a... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Broken Tree (5.10b)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: The climbing is enjoyable but there is plenty of hollow sounding rock on the route. I spoke to other people who climbed the route and they though the rock was fine, but I think a lot of it is rotten. I would recommend the route to confident 10b climbers who are strong enough to be able to check and be discriminate about which holds they use so they can avoid the loose stuff.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: This route is good fun. The second pitch is one of the better pitches I did while I was at the tower. The moves are varied and the rock is pretty good.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Tulgey Wood (5.10a)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: The first pitch is quality climbing on good rock. We only did the first pitch. Our book said to take some RPs to protect the crux. You do not need any RPs to protect the crux or any other part of the pitch 1. My girlfriend placed a #5 Stopper at the crux and that was the smallest piece she used.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : El Matador (5.10d)
By: Joe Dawson When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: The second pitch is fantastic and is one of the most memorable I have climbed. El Mat is a must do for any 5.11 climber. It takes good pro, so dont be scared to take a shot at this classic.

I cannot agree that no move is harder than 5.9. I have climbed plenty of cracks at plenty of places and some of the crack moves on the bottom half of the climb are in the 10b or 10c range although there are easier moves in between them. I cannot judge the difficulty of the upper half of the climb because I a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Hair Shirt (5.8+)
By: Joe Dawson When: May 12, 2009

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Comments: Two #4 Camalots with a #5 Camalot between them will get you through the wide section with no more than 10 feet between the pieces.

This is a fun climb. I do not find that offwidth technique is all that necessary as there are many crimps for a your hands and feet to use along with the crack.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Hair and Now (5.11c)
By: Joe Dawson When: May 12, 2009

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Comments: Hardest 5.9 I ever warmed up on.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Karl's Gym (5.10d)
By: Joe Dawson When: May 12, 2009

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Comments: I too disagree with the official description of the climb. The lower part consists of a couple of face moves up to a roof with a leaning off fingers crack above it it. This aint no fist crack.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Nova Express (5.9)
By: Joe Dawson When: May 12, 2009

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Comments: Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Cheiu Hoi (5.9)
By: Joe Dawson When: Dec 9, 2008

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Comments: This is a fun climb with good pro. The ratings of the pitches on the above description and in the guidebook are a joke. The first two pitches go at about 5.8 and the 3rd pitch felt like 5.10c/d to me. I think it is important to mention this sandbagging so someone does not get in over his head.

Important Note: The 3rd pitch is only 30 feet long. While the dihedral goes up quite a way, the horizontal crack you traverse left on is about 30 feet above the large belay ledge. In the Falcon guide all ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Magnolia Thunderpussy (5.9)
By: Joe Dawson When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: Time to declare the emperor is naked. The first pitch is not 5.9. I led it once and TRed it a couple of time and I think it feels like 5.10+, and possibly a 5.10-.

Like many of the routes on Granite Mountain, this one is sandbagged by a couple of grades, so be warned. I only did the first pitch, so my comments only apply to it.

Nevertheless, the first pitch is fantastic and it takes great pro.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Top Secret Tower : Dike Up-Route (5.8)
By: Joe Dawson When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: This will be a very good route once more people get on it and it gets cleaned up a bit. It is well bolted by J-Tree standards and the moves are fun. When I did it in 2006 the upper half of the climb which is slabby was very sandy. With traffic it will clean up.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Black is Brown (5.9)
By: Joe Dawson When: Oct 23, 2007

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Comments: ~145 foot rap is correct. Bring two ropes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Forbidden Paradise (5.10b)
By: Joe Dawson When: Apr 17, 2006

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Comments: I think this is a great route. It is well bolted for Joshua Tree standards and reasonably bolted by other standards; I dont like runout and it feels fine to me. The moves are fun and varied and choosing the easiest line takes a little figuring. I would not burn the energy hanging out to place a nut on the route unless you have a nut fetish - the bolts are not that far apart. I would like to think the route is a little sandbagged since it took me three goes to redpoint it, but it could ... more >>


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