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Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : One Armed Bandit (5.10a)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those of you who want to climb at Jacks, it would be wise for you to invest in the Jacks Canyon guide that Deidre Burton put together. You can visit www.jackscanyon.com to order it. It is well worth the cost, because if you can't locate one route in an area at Jacks - telling you that a route is "to the left" or "to the right" of another route is not going to help you. Deidre put out a quality guidebook, and I hope it helps you find your way in the canyon!
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Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those of you who want to climb at Jacks, it would be wise for you to invest in the Jacks Canyon guide that Deidre Burton put together. You can visit www.jackscanyon.com to order it. It is well worth the cost, because if you can't locate one route in an area at Jacks - then me telling you that a route is "to the left" or "to the right" of another route is not going to help you. Deidre put out a quality guidebook, and I hope it helps you find your way in the canyon!
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Spaghetti Western Wall : The Hanging Tree (5.10a)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tree is gone....the stump remains.
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Location: AZ : Eagletail Mountains : Courthouse Rock : The Groover (5.10c/d)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6 pitches, approx 700' - imo, pitch 1 & 2 are 5/9; pitch 3 is 5.10; pitch 4 & 5 are 5.6/7; pitch 6 is class 4. rap off mountaineer's route.
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Location: AZ : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Beat Feet (5.7)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great trad route...old school rating at 5.7.
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Location: AZ : Superstition Mountains : Hobgoblin Spires : Rink-Kudo (5.7)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey BennyWenny...welcome to the Supes. Backcountry adventure at its FINEST!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Oak Creek Spire Area : Oak Creek Spire : North Face/West Crack (5.9+)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMHO....Pitch 1 - 5.9 at approx 80'. Pitch 2 - I would break this up into two pitches as previously posted. Belay at the top of the flaring chimney (approx. 100', 5.10 b/c}, then belay at the top of the blocky chimney* (approx. 100'). (*The blocky chimney is more of a crack w/ an offwidth rock-left). Great approach, and great day on sandstone!
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Location: AZ : Superstition Mountains : Hobgoblin Spires : Rink-Kudo (5.7)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Dec 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it twice. The first time my CP had a lot of rope drag on P4. I led it the second time, and I experienced the same problem. With little pro and the hardest move on the climb, the rope drag was a real DRAG. Otherwise, it is a fun climb! We climbed Rink-Kudo and then followed it with Spider Walk. Awesome.
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Location: AZ : Eagletail Mountains : Courthouse Rock : The Groover (5.10c/d)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Dec 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first three pitches are great! I was a little apprehensive leading the third pitch (a short section of 5.10c/d) due to the rock quality, but it was all there.
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Location: AZ : The Promised Land : Solomon Area : Cupcake (5.4 PG13)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good first sport lead - it is all there. Definitely 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Approximately 60' of climbing.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Ravens : Hotshot (5.8+)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good introduction to climbing at The Ravens; this climb is well bolted where needed and a little runout in easier sections.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Fort Stress (5.9+)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: After pitch two of Fort Stress, my partner and I climbed Tres Frijoles; a bolt line just left of Rupley's route. IMHO, it was sustained solid 5.9 w/ several 5.9+ cruxes. Although a little runout between bolts in some areas, it is a great variation to the regular Fort Stress route!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Sep 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moving left from the roof w/ little protection is somewhat scary. Pitch 2 was definitely the fun pitch!
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : The Classic (5.7)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this climb! It is a CLASSIC, and Justin and I will do it again. We decided to do a variation on the first pitch just right of Crack Lover's Variation. The third pitch is definitely the money pitch :)
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Overlook
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Jul 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Along with tarantulas and wasps, I have encountered bats in the cracks at the Overlook. In October of last year, I jammed my fingers in a crack on Isaiah and encountered a bat. There were several bats in the cracks that day. It freaked me out.
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Mt. Hayden - South Face (5.8)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Jun 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the route for the second time! (Previous ascent was 6.18.2005 w/ Mike, Rogil, Dave and Scott). The approach was brutal, and required us to bushwhack through thick stands of catclaw acacia. Since the fire in 2000, the undergrowth is now about 2' overhead. We wore long sleeves and leather gloves, but sustained a lot of bloody scrapes and punctures. The climb was great! There is a lot of loose rock.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: May 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Phil on his comment about this climb being sandbagged. Pitch one is NOT a 5.5. It is more difficult than 2, 3 & 4. I recommend 12-15 draws. On the bolted pitches, small pro and slings can be used between bolts if you are uncomfortable with a little runout. The last pitch of Too Tough to Die is a MUST! Great views - great climb!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : Queen Victoria : Route To Nowhere (5.8)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: May 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although the rock is choss, this route is great. Stemming all the way! Since Queen Vic is a short multipitch, this route adds more climbing to the day.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : Queen Victoria : Regular Route (5.7)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: May 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 "OW" - After a few stemming moves, a #4 is helpful in the lower section, and a #5 is helpful in the upper section. We rapped on a 70m rope w/ plenty of rope left for each rap.
"Also to whomever is chalking up the route with ratings and other random grafitti, c'mon this is Sedona." I didn't see any grafitti.
This is a great climb for a new trad climber!
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Finktion Wall : Sampsonite (5.10b/c)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: May 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent climb! I found the crux(es) to be between the first and second bolts and the move to the last bolt just below the roof. I highly recommend this climb.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: we were the first party on the climb, and glad to get there early! there were multiple parties that arrived within a half hour. we only made it to the top of pitch 5 due to cold and blustery winds, but if the final pitches are as good as the first five - this is my favorite climb at RRs thus far! plan to do this one again....and finish it.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : End Pinnacle : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Oct 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely an adventure! Climb: On the first pitch, a #6 protects the first bolt clip and the chimney. I bootied a #6 two days prior to climbing Days...the lead was happy to have it! Decent: At the bottom of the second rap, you will follow a ramp downward. It can be dark, so bring a headlamp! You will scramble up to a hole (light is visible) leading to the outside of the dome. Rap anchors are directly on the left as you exit the hole.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : Trad Rock : Rabbits Feat (5.8+)
By: Jodie Bostrom When: Oct 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Height is definitely an advantage on the move below the last bolt, thus the rating.
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