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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Jo Holloway When: Jun 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You really can wear those bridesmaid dresses for other occasions...
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Big Ass Slab? : Coloradoddity (5.6)
By: Jo Holloway When: Jun 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description on finding this route is now a bit misleading. The first bolted route you come to from the parking lot is actually Gilded Lilly (5.8+ or 5.9 depending on your mettle) on Left Hand Rock. Use the route map for Jurassic Park to avoid this little surprise if you want to start on a nice beginner lead.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d) : Photo
By: Jo Holloway When: May 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got vermin?
A pair of rats set up housekeeping in my mom's semi-feral backyard early this spring. Not long afterwards, a weasel in winter white fur moved in. No more rats!
Your little friend was probably waiting for some climber-fattened ground squirrels. Good 'Evans!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Dead Zone (5.10a)
By: Jo Holloway When: May 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reasons to do this route:
1)You are thirsting for some trad while at The Avalon
2)You want to feel assured that you've done every official route on this rock
3)You are conducting a survey of rock-borne ecosystems and admire the moss, lichens and ferns as you go up.
4)You enjoy putting your limbs through a cheese grater.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Jo Holloway When: Feb 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ribbit!
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Photo
By: Jo Holloway When: Nov 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Gigette. That linear feature is a stunningly long diabase (dark-colored minerals) dike.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab East (5.6)
By: Jo Holloway When: Nov 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a surprisingly difficult route to identify based on the guidebook. We had a little diversion which could best be described as east of East Slab East (oopsies) which was still a fun climb. The advice here to spot the disappearing crack should help.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Sunshine Slab (5.0) : Photo
By: Jo Holloway When: Nov 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice early introduction to the sport... just when you learn to walk, learn to crawl up the rock!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Photo
By: Jo Holloway When: Nov 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's Godzilla!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : South Face (5.4)
By: Jo Holloway When: Nov 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ambience here is great. The long walk in keeps the crowds down. The lichens are in fantastic shape (I hope they stay that way!). We were entertaining a pair of ravens all afternoon who returned the favor with some fine aerobatics.
You can treat this as a crack climb or a face climb, although the path of least resistance is most certainly treating the South Face as a face climb. It's a little balancy for the grade, but not horrifically so. Takes great pro the whole way through. Bring a ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : Beau! (5.7+)
By: Jo Holloway When: Nov 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the perspective of following:
Dave put in some pretty small gear (black Alien; microstoppers) in a few places that would be more like mental pro. I wouldn't want to take a fall leading this route!
Having said that, this is a fantastic route. There are good holds all the way through with some nice little gymnastic moves to keep things spicy. It is such a treat to be able to climb on a face that still has a lichen garden. It gives the whole experience a good feral feeling!
... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Golden Slumber (5.10d)
By: Jo Holloway When: Nov 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amusing bat discussion thread from 2003...
Most bats in this area are migratory and set up roosts in the same crag every year from around Memorial Day through late August/early September. While it may be a little unnerving to have a fuzzy, cranky, hypoglycemic beady-eyed beast hissing at you from your preferred hold, just think of all the mosquitos a colony can take out!
http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/index.php?option=com_content&tas>>>>>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face South Side (5.4)
By: Jo Holloway When: Oct 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful climb! We wound up combining this route with the North Side after the first pine tree. This certainly didn't detract from climbing the east face. There are a couple of rappel stations. We used the recently placed rainbow slings for what was a fairly civilized rappel... much nicer than I was led to believe :-)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Jo Holloway When: Sep 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was led up this route once before but swung leads today as a member of a trio. What great fun! This route only becomes more magnificent as you explore the nooks and cranies for little pockets to suck up some gear. The views were tremendous! I was amused to learn that other climbers have developed a fondness for the chickenhead (looks more like an anvil: credit to Dave Holliday for that visual) that you can sling on the last pitch.
Truly a classic!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : I, Robot (5.7)
By: Jo Holloway When: Sep 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Jo Holloway When: Sep 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As per Mark Nelson's comment, this route lost a grade of difficulty for me from the time I climbed it with a camelback (what was I thinking?!)
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Location: CO : Search Continues for missin...
By: Jo Holloway When: Sep 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Based on the articles in the Daily Camera, the missing man and his partner were bouldering at 10pm Tuesday night ~1.5 miles up the Eldorado Canyon Trail when he fell 15 feet and rolled another 30 feet downslope. That is where his partner left him to get help. The victim left rock shoes, a water bottle and some blood behind when he got up and walked away. There are about 100 people in the area looking for him today.
The latest news:
http://www.dailycamera.com/bdc/county_news/article/0,1713,BD... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Jo Holloway When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: That profound stem on the second pitch, as demonstrated by the photo of Phil Broscovak, is a little rough if you are around 5'6" or so. There are a few decent face holds off to the left that can help the height-challenged climber shimmy up this section.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : 5th of July (5.9+)
By: Jo Holloway When: Jul 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a fine route! Watch out for the wasps nesting in the horizontal crack at the final (tenth) bolt. One of our party got stung twice yesterday. Yowch! The hot zone is easily avoided by moving past the bolt on the left.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Boulder Direct (5.5)
By: Jo Holloway When: Jun 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is great for a beginning leader. When you are at the top of this route, keep an eye out for a couple of small patches of poison ivy just below the arch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Jo Holloway When: May 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was on this route for the first time May 26, so I have no baseline regarding the route prior to the fallen flake. It climbed like a 5.6 to me. Rockfall happens...
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