Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.


Member Since: Jul 30, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact jmeizis


Point Rank: # 2,185
Total Points: 233
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has jmeizis been climbing?










Contributions


All (644) | Routes (7) | Areas (2) | Photos (22) | Comments (23) | Posts (389) | Stars (104) | Ratings (97)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Theft of Hangers at Red Roc...
By: jmeizis When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe glue-ins are in order....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: jmeizis When: Feb 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed 2/22 and it was quite sketchtastic. Lots of detached, hollow pillars and unbonded slabs of ice. Very exciting and fun if you're into that sort of thing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: jmeizis When: Feb 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good route, would rap down Chockstone to make for an easier rope pull.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : The Bat (5.9+ PG13)
By: jmeizis When: Feb 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route, a little exciting but there is more gear than it appears from the ground. Wasn't sure I was going to do it, because from the ground, there looks to be no gear, but once you get going, there are plenty of opportunities. Plan on using lots of small gear and working for your placements.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: jmeizis When: Feb 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome face climbing. There are enough bolts, but they're not the most confidence inspiring. The crux is exciting, probably more so if you're short. Started in from The Bat which was also a bit exciting.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: jmeizis When: Jun 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. Something to be careful of with the rappel off the Third Ace is the rappel anchor that is there is in need of some fixing. The slings are on kind of a slopey horn that looks like it's pinched by a block. The problem is the block is easily moved so as not to pinch the slings, and then it's just some slings on a slopey horn where if you lean wrong they'll easily pop off. I'd suggest either downclimbing on belay or adding a backup to the slings or something of that nature. As it is now... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: jmeizis When: May 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent and increasingly sustained crimping. Definitely fit my style of climbing. Plenty of bolts to keep you busy (almost makes it harder). Lots of technical foot and hand sequences. Really excellent. Everything seemed really solid.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: jmeizis When: May 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A more logical way to split up the pitches is to lead the short easy crack to the broad ledge. From there you can lead a nice long pitch with no FF2 issues to where this climb hits Dappled Mare. Then do another pitch to the top. Easy, reasonably comfortable and no silly hanging belay right in the middle of the face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: jmeizis When: Apr 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this while it was snowing. Linked the first two which was nice, because it warmed me up to lead the third. My opinion on the gear: it's adequate enough. There is bomber gear below the pin. You could break your ankle if you fell before that. You could also be fine. The pin seemed adequate for what would be a light toprope fall if you fell after clipping it. By the time I got close to being above it, I was able to fit a nut in. It's a little rattly, but it would certainly hold a fall. I'd ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: jmeizis When: Apr 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great climb. Almost onsighted the dihedral but fell trying to reach for what would have been basically a bomber jug. Cruised the second time. There is one pin in the dihedral which can be backed up with yellow and blue TCUs. Flailed on the roof pitch because of rope issues. Don't place gear at the lip or if you do, remove it after you get past it because your rope will trap it and your second will make .11a look like .12a, especially if it's snowing....


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Teepee Tower Crack (5.9)
By: jmeizis When: Jan 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Although it looks like you could combine pitches from the ground, don't try it. Both pitches are a lot longer than they look from the ground. The first pitch is super fun with a bit of an awkward finish.

Bring a #4 for the second pitch, and save your #3s for later in the pitch. I didn't bring a #4 and placed my #3 too early. After running it out for about 40 feet, I placed an under cammed #2 (the biggest piece I had left and ran it out another 20 feet or so till I ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: jmeizis When: Jan 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Best route I've done in CO. The flake under the arch is kind of scary but easy to be gentle on. I thought the pitches after the first arch but before the second (where you go left again) were pretty awesome although the runout "5.9" section felt pretty similar in difficulty to the 5.10 section. Falling there would be a bad idea. If you didn't hit the ledge with the belay bolts, you'd certainly have a bad road rash.

Either way the way we broke down the pitches were:

Combine P1 & P2 (bad rope d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: jmeizis When: Dec 7, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: That must be the C3 part? God I hate stacked pins.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R) : Photo
By: jmeizis When: Dec 1, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Worse


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R) : Photo
By: jmeizis When: Sep 28, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I found that climb to be consistently scary. Anchors that move, holds that move, huge runouts on dirt. Great first climb in what's basically the Fisher's.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Brain Cramps (5.9+)
By: jmeizis When: Sep 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This description seems to fit in with what I climbed and the topo from the Hubbel/Rolofson guidebook. If this isn't Brain Cramps then I don't know what is, because the climb right of it is too easy, the climb left is harder and there wouldn't be another climb between Brain Cramps and Satyr's Assholed but Straw Turkey is there. I think this is the right climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Nightime Madness (5.7)
By: jmeizis When: Sep 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the chimney to the top was harder than 5.7. Maybe it was all the gear or something else but it felt solid 5.8. There was a slung block in the middle where it really pinched down.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Men Arete (5.8)
By: jmeizis When: Aug 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I would call it solid 5.9-. It's harder than Balance but easier than some of the 5.9s in the Garden such as Crescent Corner or Credibility Gap. Albeit it's different stone and a different style. I found it only a little bit easier than Corrugation Corner which I climbed after Menarete as well as after onsighting Dragnet, Full Monty, and Cheyenne.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Balance (5.8)
By: jmeizis When: Aug 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route has been extended. From the piton it now goes straight up the headwall on the climbers left. The difficulty is similar. You need a 60m to make it to the ground.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders
By: jmeizis When: Jun 15, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Left a nice new guidebook there today. It's either soaked in rain or somebody grabbed it already, but since I live in Colorado Springs I guess it's my donation to somebody. Maybe I shouldn't have tried to pick up trash because I only ended up leaving some of my own.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: jmeizis When: Jun 15, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed both the North Chimney and K-I on the same day back in April. The climbs are honestly like twins both formed from the same crack running through the entire formation it seems. K-I gets sun most of the day and was fairly sustained but I never felt like the moves got past 5.8. The questionable bolts on the infamous crux pitch had other gear nearby and were therefore not as scary as I thought they would be.

North Chimney on the other hand didn't feel very sustained but the cruxes were p... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: jmeizis When: Jun 15, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed both the North Chimney and K-I on the same day back in April. The climbs are honestly like twins both formed from the same crack running through the entire formation it seems. K-I gets sun most of the day and was fairly sustained but I never felt like the moves got past 5.8. The questionable bolts on the infamous crux pitch had other gear nearby and were therefore not as scary as I thought they would be.

North Chimney on the other hand didn't feel very sustained but the cruxes were p... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R)
By: jmeizis When: Apr 11, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, my first desert aid climb, my first mud tower. Also my friends first aid climb ever. It took us three days to top it out. Grade III means three days right? The first day we drove out there around noon and had trouble looking for a road to drive towards it. Turns out the road is closed and by that time we decided it was too late to start up anyways. The next day we came back a little earlier and after carefully picking our way through the desert terrain for several hours we finally made it t... more >>