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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: jleining When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys are pathetic. The mantle at the end is the best part of the climb, the fixed anchors are right there on the lip above the mantle, and plus The Highway Man shares the anchor with this climb.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : The Highwayman (5.13d)
By: jleining When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Jonathan, Matt and I bolted this line together. We used 2-3/4" x 3/8" sleeve bolts, I have heard them referred to as five piece Rawl, but no one in the hardware industry knows them by that name. We drilled about 3" into the rock and even with and electric drill (not the best one) it still took about 20 min a hole. I think Matt just pulled the hanger off of the 3rd bolt and hammered it in, because removing would be damn near impossible.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock
By: jleining When: May 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, I'm not thinking of Sheep's Nose. I am incredibly familiar with the South Platte and the USGS shows the formation about a mile and a half to the southwest of this rock as Sheep's Rock and does not name this formation, and I have experience with reading maps, too. I do know that this is referred to by climbers, probably due to the over consumption of beer.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock
By: jleining When: Aug 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is anyone aware that the top pic for this area is not Sheeprock? The pic is actually of Acid Rock and Helen's Dome with Baby Helen's on the bottom right this pic is taken from the north at the Molly Gulch campground and Sheep Rock is actually a couple miles to the southwest of here.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: jleining When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Checked out this area yesterday! Came in from the East from FR360 and FR205 in an Isuzu Trooper, FR 360 had three sections that were severely eroded the first section will not be possible to cross in a couple of more seasons. But the later two had big drops into a creek running across the road, crossing was tricky but fine. FR 205 "Metberry Gulch" was fine the eroded ravine has been spanned with logs. Although be careful once you can see the Big Rock and then loose sight of it you will go up a s... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: jleining When: Jul 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To everyone who can't comprehend what they read! The blame of my comments lies squarley on me! Matt said he did it it his own style and respects everyone else's style. I said I don't. And quite your bickering it's not like the bolts where chopped, I said "when I send this those bolts are gone" but it probably won't happen, so don't worry but you got something to say say it to me cause Matt didn't say anything. So keep drinking your beer at your homes in NM or wherever else you might be.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: jleining When: Jul 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe if you sport climbers had ethics you wouldn't be having these conversations about bolts. In mid June my friend Matt L. got the first true FREE ascent of Anarchitect on trad gear. Rating it 5.12d/x. Anarchitect is a perfect example of a climb that should have never been bolted. And believe me I'm not as nice as Matt, when I send this route those bolts are gone!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: jleining When: Jul 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To all you punter sport climbers, not to start an ethics debate, but Anarchitect is a classic example of a route that should have never been bolted, In early June 2007, my friend, Matt L. fired the first FREE acent on trad gear rating this climb 5.12d/x. Please don't bolt routes that accept gear, and don't take climbing out of climbing. Anarchitect is a beautiful line that readily accepts the placement of gear. Let's keep it that way, oh and I'm not as nice as Matt, so when I send this climb on ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron
By: jleining When: Jul 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Helpful tip, unless you would like to practice your rope management, My Climbing Co guide book said the descent from the top of the First Flatiron requires two ropes. Guess what it doesn't. I wasted my time scrambling this thing and dragging two ropes up while doing it. If you're gonna do the First, it is only 92 ft from the summit eybolts to the ground!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face (Variant... (5.10b)
By: jleining When: Jun 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route at the end of may, and it is AWESOME! One of the best routes I have ever done! My partner Matt and I did all 5 pitches to the summit well worth it! The first 4 pitches are amazing. Lose rock only found on the last pitch, but trip to the summit was well worth it. Also FOUND MEMORY CARD on the big ledge at the end of third pitch, if want returned let me know.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: jleining When: Jun 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To all the cheap climbing bums out there! especially AC. There is free camping about 11 miles outside of Devil's Tower. Directions are from leaving the park entrance. Leave the park and at the juction turn left toward Hulet, and go less than one mile to a dirt road on the right. Follow the dirt road for about 10 or 11 miles to the Black Hills National Forrest, and please use existing camp sites.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Photo
By: jleining When: Apr 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt Lloyd 5 pitches up on the Scenic Cruise. Photo Josh Leininger.
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