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Member Since: Jul 31, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 13, 2010
Contact j.jaeger


Point Rank: # 2,036
Total Points: 275
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11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j.jaeger been climbing?










Contributions


All 87 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 18 | Page Improvments | Comments 35 | Posts 8 | Stars 12 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Elk Creek : 30 Odd Six (V8-)
By: j.jaeger When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: Is there any element of elimination on this? I.e. what's 'off' if anything?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Elk Creek : Choppy Omega (V7+)
By: j.jaeger When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: The first beta I received on this problem was that it started with a left hand crimp and right hand fat pinch. We ferreted out a line of that description which essentially starts sitting in the cradle of the two larger landing blocks on the left side of the wall. The move to the sloping jug is powerful, but fairly short. The rock quality is incredible, but this is a very dumpy line.... Very fun if you can do it in five minutes, but not worthy of projecting.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Glimpse Into Paradise (V7) : Photo
By: j.jaeger When: Mar 11, 2009

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Comments: not bad, josh.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: j.jaeger When: Mar 11, 2009

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Comments: Dope shot! I was actually coming here to enter this line on mtn project today and saw your photo.... A few of us cleaned it up and sent ~ March of '08... called it "Kerosine Milkshake" due to an advertisement at a local convenience shop. For what it's worth, I think we gave it ~6, though a few strong kids never sent it that day after a lot of effort.... So, maybe V5/7 to cover all the bases.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Hickey's V7 (V7)
By: j.jaeger When: Feb 27, 2009

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Comments: It's been a long while, but Hickey's V7 + Cannibal Dance: start standing w/ left-facing sidepull, power out to crimpy gaston? w/ RH, highstep left, LH to poor pocket, then again to lip.

Sit start on oppositional holds using a wild perched right foot adds a V grade or so.

Also, do the sit or stand start and climb the wall diagonally join and exit as for Purity Control /aka/ pocket problem. If I remember, I called this "Thunderhead"... a contrivance to be sure, but it gives you a really cool se... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Ghost Dance (V6)
By: j.jaeger When: Feb 27, 2009

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Comments: I'd argue that Ghost Dance from the razor crimp standing start is harder than Babyface, which is often considered a national standard for V7.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Punani (V7-8)
By: j.jaeger When: Feb 24, 2009

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Comments: For what it's worth, my understanding of the original "sit" start: start matched on a low shelf at the lip of the low roof. Do some crazy bunchy moves to join Punani. V9 for sure. One can probably start beneath this lip, but every time I have tried to pull on, I have broken chunks off. In any event, I am of the understanding that matched on the mini-shelf is the original.

Betterton and others have also started down in the cave, using left hand sidepull holds/underclings, as someone mentioned... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Gerbil in a Chute (V3-4)
By: j.jaeger When: Feb 24, 2009

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Comments: Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....

Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Anger Management (V11)
By: j.jaeger When: Apr 22, 2008

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Comments: For what it's worth, jamie put it back up to 11, even with the "new" [read: more obvious!] beta.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Richter Scale (V10)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 24, 2003

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Comments: This problem climbs similar to 'Grundel City Boy,' also in the Satellites, but without the meddling rock behind the climber.

Unfortunately, minutes after the second (or third) ascent, the best starting foot hold blew off. The problem will still go by using a sloping rail under the starting bulge or a very high edge.

Start at a sit by using one of many slick crimp/pinches just around the corner of the left arete and a very fat sloping pinch out right. Slap hard right to a flat oppositional ... more >>


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