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Member Since: Jul 31, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 2,017
Total Points: 285
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j.jaeger been climbing?










Contributions


All 89 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 8 | Stars 13 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Spray Cave <br /> <br />1. Anger Management, V11**  all good holds but one heinous crux crimp of death. Not sharp. <br />2. Spray Standard Left, B3/4**  campus jugs. <br />3. Spray Standard Right, F3/4?**  campus jugs. <br />4. Spray Prow, V7/8***  traverse from dihedral start with great moves to gain the overhung arete. <br />5. Head Banger, V7/8 *  low all the way.  There's also a version that off routes anything right of the crotch of the final dihedral. V9+? <br /> <br />There's also a Turd Line that starts crouching left of #1 on poor holds, one powerful move up to better crimps/edges and top out.  Finally, starting on this line and traversing the entire lip is a difficult, but not too appealing project. <br /> <br />Stars assume you avoided the guano at the exit of 2, 3, 4.

Spray Cave 1. Anger Management, V11** all good holds but one heinous crux crimp of death. Not sharp. 2. Spray Standard Left, B3/4** campus jugs. 3. Spray Standard Right, F3/4?** campus jugs. 4. Sp

CO : South Platte : ... : Spray Wall

Jun 30, 2009

Kerosene Milkshake.  Ander's bloody cartwheel in 3, 2, 1....

Kerosene Milkshake. Ander's bloody cartwheel in 3, 2, 1....

CO : South Platte : ... : Kerosene Milkshake (V6 R)

Mar 20, 2009

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.

CO : Denver South : ... : Gerbil in a Chute (V3-4)

Feb 24, 2009

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.

CO : Denver South : ... : Gerbil in a Chute (V3-4)

Feb 24, 2009

the upper section.

the upper section.

CO : South Platte : ... : Northeast Arete (West Twin) (V4)

Apr 22, 2008

ander rockstad on the sit start.  the bottom part of this climb resembles an easier, mirror-image version of sharma's "the proposal" in squamish, in my mind.

ander rockstad on the sit start. the bottom part of this climb resembles an easier, mirror-image version of sharma's "the proposal" in squamish, in my mind.

CO : South Platte : ... : Northeast Arete (West Twin) (V4)

Apr 22, 2008

Hahn working the crux big man move, mere minutes before the actual FA. <br /> <br />

Hahn working the crux big man move, mere minutes before the actual FA.

CO : South Platte : ... : The Becoming (V10)

Apr 22, 2008

Rylan getting ready to nab the business. <br />Many Spray Cave photos posted at <a href='http://www.straightouttabedlam.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >straightouttabedlam.blogspot.c...</a>  search for "elevenmile" and they should show up.

Rylan getting ready to nab the business. Many Spray Cave photos posted at straightouttabedlam.blogspot.c... search for "elevenmile" and they should show up.

CO : South Platte : ... : Anger Management (V11)

Apr 22, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Five and Dime Area : ... : Hoagie in Heaven (V8-9)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 17, 2010

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Comments: Word. So it is not clear due to the angle, but it appears that Matt started on my start rather than the original start, which again, doesn't really matter. With the cuts in the video, we can't tell if Matt actually did the full top out, or if they cut out the ledge traverse that I described. Without video of pulling the upper bulge of dirty chossy death, I suspect they cut out the upper ledge traverse for aesthetics.

Nelson did a great job, though.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Punani (V7-8)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Ok... after some beta revelations, I guess V8 is more appropriate for the low start.

Also, a taller climber used a two finger pocket to do the crux move to the lip on the original start and it seemed to make the problem substantially easier than folks who need to use the sloping crimp with their right hand.... that may bring the V6 comment into perspective.

Finally, I still haven't found out if the short problem under the roof right of Gerbils has a name. I heard it was V7 and in warmer temps... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Troll (V6)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Finally found this one. Very cool, hueco-esque, starting hold... both hands and foot cam. Nice! Though the rock under the roof is bomber, the top out is very poor quality rock... be careful not to snap anything off and bash your head. I came close.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Five and Dime Area : ... : Hoagie in Heaven (V8-9)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for posting this, Tom.

FA - Jeff Russell. Named in memory of the late Ryan Sayers, who had himself been close to the FA of this rig before being tragically struck by lightning while en-route in the Wind River Range.

Start at the farthest left pockets on the main wall... right hand crimping in a pod and left hand on a lower mono/two finger.

The FA was done by climbing the tall, death choss face above the post-crux pod/ledge, up to a high ledge. The climb was completed by doing a terri... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Hickey's V7 (V7)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 5, 2010

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Comments: For Cannibal Dance, you gain a right hand pocket, highstep left foot, left hand to a horrid pocket, then stab again to the ledge above. To be clear: Cannibal Dance aka Hickey's V7 climbs straight up. Thunderhead climbs that downhill face from low left to high right (ending at the top out as for Purity Control).

For what it's worth, my first trip to the Millennium Boulder, Hickey and Jade were there and pointed out "Cannibal Dance" as a stand start, which most believe is stiff for 7 as it is.... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bouldering (mile marker 268... : Mavericks Boulder : The North Shore (V9)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 5, 2010

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Comments: Just history: on the FA, Jade went straight up, or perhaps even a tad left after hitting the crux move to the slots/edges. His original grade was V10, though most folks opt to top out Mavericks and avoid stabbing their spine through their face, which seems possible to exit Jade's way.

Topping out as for Mavericks seems to follow the diagonal direction of the line initiated by the first/crux move.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Pungase (V7-8)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: Is the standard line a sit start or a stand start? The sit does seem to add a crux that is equally difficult, if not more difficult that the crux to the upper section if it is a stand start normally. Thanks!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Green Herbs'n Sam (V7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 27, 2009

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Comments: Agreed... crux move is super fun and a good set up for the top out.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Red Makes Me Angry! (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 27, 2009

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Comments: Chip: I think 'reiger' was written in chalk on this block at one point, but I've never seen spraypaint. Then again, I do not have Sherlock powers of observation. Where did it appear do you think?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Truly Scrumptious aka The A... (V10)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: For what it's worth... a video. Note that DW's beta was different when he climbed on it due to a meddling block that was in the landing at that time. This block was removed in '07 by an unknown, which admittedly made for much better climbing.




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Disembowler (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: Hey Jason... for what it's worth, this is an old Ryan Sayers and Marcelo problem they called The Disembowler due to stomach scrapes on the FA.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Under Your Clings (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: Yes. DW stand, traversing out right to the standard drop-off is the old "Than's Problem" which was given V8, though 7 seems to be where it has settled in.

Is there a way to have an automatic email notification if folks reply to threads?


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Fountainbleau area : ... : Cave Direct (V6)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: Thanks, Tom.

The dab allowance was originally mentioned Bennigfield's guidebook, and seems to be consensus with ascentionists. I was eventually able to send this rig without the dab with an insane amount of try-hard.

To not dab, in addition to climbing it from the slightly lower start and broken parts of this climb as of summer '09, would make this rig harder than most 9s in RMNP.

Just sayin'....

As far as I know, this climb has never been done from the lowest left start from the left-f... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Deep Sea Angler (V7-8)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 19, 2009

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Comments: Wader, is this the same thing as "Under Your Clings", as posted below?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Seeing Squiggles Bloc : Deficit Disorder (V9+)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 19, 2009

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Comments: Word. I'm confused, though. No one said Manhattan Project wasn't an FA. Your description was good on that one. I was only pointing out that the "line" I did started the same as RP and finished the same as Seeing Squiggles, which itself off-routes the jugs that you mentioned in your comment. I think we are on the same page. I also climbed Manhattan Project after you posted it and enjoyed it.

It may soon get to the point where I need to try some more routes. I'm less worried about the endu... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Under Your Clings (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: Is this the same thing that Wade describes as Deep Sea Angler?

Shomygod!

I guess it was an obvious variation.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Under Your Clings (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: For what it's worth, I had done this a while back. The late Ryan Sayers had done a similar line he called "Wet Carrot" (which is really a higher start to Formula 50, before Formula 50 had been climbed) and since this is essentially a harder variation, I referred to it as "More Wetter Carrot"... which I recognize is an awful name.

Thanks for adding this!


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