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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Thunderbird Bulge (V3)
By: JJ Schlick When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I think we used to move left after the toss, and topout via the layback.
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Location: AR : Prohibition : Prohibition Wall : Bootlegger (5.13a) : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks amazing.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : North Side : Ratrastard (5.10a/b)
By: JJ Schlick When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Paul thanks for the info. I know some of us would love to see what you have done out there... Maybe you could post the more solid classics you discovered?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle : Tin Roof Sunday (5.11d)
By: JJ Schlick When: May 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of those routes where a little beta goes a long way. In the spirit of that the boulder problem crux turning the roof is burly and somewhat confusing during an onsight. Especially if no ones been on her in a while... I left a bomber fixed wire above the roof ( the next piece of gear after the bolt). It doesn't interfere with other TCU options or your fingerr jams, but will most likely make this section more enjoyable. I also thought that clipping a single biner on the bolt might help ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle : Bindlestiff (5.10-)
By: JJ Schlick When: May 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funky boulder problem start... Dirty alternate start to the Left? Once in the crack proper it seemed the best rock wanted to accommodate #1 camalots. I easily would have placed three. Didn't use the #3. Good stemming stances in the steep part. A crack jug haul....
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Kelly Canyon
By: JJ Schlick When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well now that you all have your different ways into the canyon, the Forest Service has decided to open the Kelly Canyon Rd access. The original way in is all clear.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall
By: JJ Schlick When: May 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations to Joel Unema for sending every route on the four major walls of the Waterfall Area! As far as I know he is the first to do so. You're making your people proud Joel.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden
By: JJ Schlick When: May 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Delete?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Los Cojones (5.11c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool pitch, more like .11-.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Kestrel's Last Stand (5.10b)
By: JJ Schlick When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climbing to about the 3/4 mark, where the rock quality goes south and so does the movement.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : The Proposal (5.12a)
By: JJ Schlick When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good movement on this stellar little pitch. Lots of good wires, and like 5.10+ to a great V3ish crux. .11+/.12-...
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Prescott Area Bouldering : Groom Creek : ... : Bonnie's Problem (V7)
By: JJ Schlick When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you are right. Bonnie did it after a foot hold broke making it harder than the original.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Apr 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ran it by the powers that be and we decided to let Renee's post stand as is. No harm, no foul, as long as it is not posted all over the place on the Cochise pages.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Broken Chain (5.12)
By: JJ Schlick When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right on Joel, nice send. And thanks for taking care of that for us.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Lake Mary Bouldering : The Ridge : ... : Blackout (V10)
By: JJ Schlick When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice send Greco!
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Location: UT : Ibex : Syringe : Adrenaline Junkies (5.11) : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sleeve explosion!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Moon Juice (5.11+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI this route is misnamed "Green Juice" in the new Sedona Rocks guide.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for sharing your story Joel, and it is that exact scenario that the FAist foresaw and tried to avoid by placing the bolts. No one likes to see bolts next to what looks like a perfect crack, but this stone is not Wingate, and no matter how solid it looks on the outside, it is all more or less sugar on the inside. In my world I would rather have a "bolted crack" than lose such a classic line because a handful of individuals want a more pure experience. Once again I would have to say the bol... more >>
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Location: IA : Hoot Bluff
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had some good times at this mini crag back in the day. If only you could get this stone in the 100' range... If you are in this corner of Iowa, this is the place for a decent pump.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Wasp Whisperer (5.11)
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey John, by the looks of it this line must share the rest stance of Crescent Moon at 3/4 height?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Eagletail Mountains : Courthouse Rock : Idiopathic (5.9- PG13) : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Old timey way of reducing costs. Shamed to say I have done it myself. Good candidate for replacement.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya I don't mind a bolt here and there in Sedona.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon
By: JJ Schlick When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: To whom it may concern,
Seriously people, quit running off with the fucking anchor biners. Aside from being a douche baggy thing to do, it shows a severe lack of respect to the community, and especially to those individuals who put in the effort to establish new lines. The reason I put those big lockers on the anchors is because they will last a hell of a long time, and every body gets to benefit from them.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hate to say it but I saw that scenario coming...
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Location: JJ Schlick : Various and ever growing : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Feb 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dog sanctioned pool.
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