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JJ Schlick on first ropeless ascent of Cranium Crack .12 Watson Lake, Prescott, AZ.  1999


Member Since: May 28, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact JJ Schlick


Point Rank: # 31
Total Points: 8,762
Last Year: 454
Last 30 Days: 6
315 Compliments
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All (2775) | Routes (315) | Areas (88) | Photos (760) | Comments (492) | Posts (142) | Stars (978) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Lake Mary Bouldering : The Ridge : ... : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: Just another no name.... Like so many out there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : South Side : ... : Nyctophiliac (5.12-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Action, adventure, and you'll fall in love with the gear.... Heartache and revenge.... But the good guy always wins in the end.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Vitamin M (5.11c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Really good positive edging in a small sea of hard to see holds. Warrants a proper anchor:)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : ... : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: For the grade, it's got to be one of the most "fun" routes there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Speaking In Tongues (5.11+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: It's probably a hard onsight. Good, hard to see foot holds near the top on the right.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Lakshmi Singh (5.12-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Yes.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : The One Wall
By: JJ Schlick When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: Should have let you field that one. Thanks for the correction.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Crescent Moon (5.10+ PG13)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: It's what I would call "sequential", with both the moves and gear....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Fool's Progress (5.11-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Kevin. I think Ed Abbey would be proud of how long it took to get that done....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Whiplash (5.11)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: Good to see you guys as always. Like the Peaks Crag, these lines should just get better and better with more traffic. And the view is kinda mesmerizing....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Awesome angle!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area
By: JJ Schlick When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: It's called Pay To Pray 5.11- in Sedona Rocks. Fixed anchors.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : All The Way (5.12b/c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Good work Jay. It's hard to capture a route so iconic as All The Way.

Unfortunately I was only three or so when Tommy first lead the thing. That seems like a long time ago. I was there during Eric's fabled lead, though the details are fuzzy.... An unfortunate side effect of fuckness. The details. Anyway I've heard a few different versions over the years, and it warms the history of my heart. Eric and I had a lot of good times over a good stretch of years from Hueco Tanks in 1997, to Groom Creek... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : North Side : Tralfamadore (5.9+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Tralfamadore is a distant planet in the semi science fiction classic "Slaughterhouse Five", by the legendary Kurt Vonnegut. On Tralfamadore, the protagonist, Billy Pilgrim is locked away with a human female prostitute in the local zoo.... Tralfamadorians can see back wards and forwards in time much the way we see distance. So it goes.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: I was first introduced to the philosophies and practices of the DLFA in 1993 by Dave Groth. I was young and naive, and he was sober as a two year old in his early thirties. Fortunately for me he was fit, and itching to climb whenever his domestic duties allowed. Over the course of a few years I had heard all the great stories as we rattled down the highways in his beat up old mini van. I still have a lot of images of Dave screaming over the steady wind and road noise with a La Croix sparkling wa... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : All The Way (5.12b/c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Nicely done gentlemen.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : All The Way (5.12b/c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: No, no you should give it to Jay. I just feel that there are certain routes which are of more historical importance than others. While I have always known the history of this line first hand from the old boys, I feel it does us all a disservice when this history goes unmarked. Especially the next generation.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Now or Never (5.11+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: I suppose it's a matter of semantics more than anything, however I got a chance to sneak out here on a recent visit. It does look like the sugary holds out left have all broken, and the path I intended is the only one that's survived. My 2 cents.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : All The Way (5.12b/c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: Man, this route could use a more historical description of the badassery that surrounds this line.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : No Utopia (5.11+ PG13)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: It's the best face climbing down there for the grade. I've heard it's an awesome onsight, good work Robbie.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: A good shot of how the wall looks in it's latest incarnation. After the roof/bulge where Jim is at, Solitaire goes up and left climbing on the left hand border of the black streak.

The line with the blue draws that breaks right after the bulge is a closed project that I bolted off season, and am still waiting for proper temps. I have done it with one hang so it shouldn't take too long once we get that dreamy 52 degrees up there.

The wall is looking more beautiful than ever.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Super Chronic (5.12-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: I'd agree there is no definitive .12- crux on this route, and I always thought of it as .11+ to a time clock rest, then pumpy 5.11 to the high anchor. I've seen a handful of exciting onsights of this pitch, but I've also seen it shut down a lot of talented climbers. I've always thought .12- was a fair grade, especially for an onsight. I love this cross generational route!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Juliet (5.11) : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: That Futuristic is a stunning line.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I keep meaning to redo them, but I think Joel might be the man for the job.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Black and Tan (5.10)
By: JJ Schlick When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: I talked with Darren Singer a number of years back about retro cleaning some of the original lines, and he was all for it. Though they did take out the obvious stuff, cleaning was a different deal in 1992. There are a bunch of routes on the Left Wall that could use a good once over, and the overall quality would go up tremendously. There's always going to be some choss here and there, but I don't think people need to be shy about removing any direct hazard from any route here. The freeze/thaw e... more >>


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