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JJ Turning the lip of the roof on the FA of Raptur...


Member Since: May 28, 2006
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact JJ Schlick

Point Rank: # 23
Total Points: 11,868
Last Year: 3,239
Last 30 Days: 5
460 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JJ Schlick been climbing?










Contributions


All 3531 | Routes 430 | Areas 127 | Photos 1012 | Page Improvements | Comments 603 | Posts 148 | Stars 1211 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : *Prescott Area Bouldering : In-Town Bouldering : School Rocks
By: JJ Schlick When: 15 hours ago

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Comments: Thanks Bill.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Secret Canyon : ... : Mamma Don't Take My Kodachr... (5.12-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Sweet, I'm glad people are getting thier roam on. A heads up though is that the few 3/8 5-piece bolts that we have replaced up there were only two inches long, and tinghtened down to about an inch and a half. Time bombs if I've ever seen them. I'd keep any falls to a minimum.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle : ... : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Soooo sick! I looked the placements over, as Wade was establishing the line, and thought they would probably wear out pretty quickly with people falling and hanging on them. I talked him into the bolts, because I thought the falls off that ledge, and crux moves should be managed for the grade. So you can blame me for a the steel, though the bolts make it a super stretch out warmup that I love.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle : Redball (5.11-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: I here ya! I'm usually within a couple letter grades.... And that's usually good enough for me. This route demands a couple hard crimp moves, but they are cool moves for sure.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle : Redball (5.11-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Like most rating descrepancis it comes down to height. Forget the grade and enjoy the perfect stone while it lasts. Always liked this one.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Gone Fishin' (5.10c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Let's keep it on the radar, and shoot for pre fall. Maybe end of August?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Friends, don't let friends park like assholes at The Peaks Crag. As mentioned in the general description, people parking all over the road, is the only threat to access this crag has. Just think about it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Hey Jacob, sorry I wasn't more talkative on Friday. I was so focused on getting my grease on;) I think of all the crags in Flag were people actually climb, West Elden would benefit greatly from a good solid Crag Day. Trail maintenance, route maintenance, etc.... I would be up for anchor placing, especially if the hardware was stainless and supplied by somebody, but I'd be happy the set them.

Let's just not turn it into a party!! Maybe an after TR party. There's a lot of work to be don... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : The Point (5.10+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: With some love and cleaning, I could see it being a worthy sport climb. It's just so dirty like the rest of Elden. That place could used a crag day of trail maintenance, route scrubbing, and anchor placement.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : The Point (5.10+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: I don't know, you had better go lead it again.... Maybe adding three bolts at the bottom would help. I don't usually comment on routes, but this left such bad taste in mouth, I had to get it out. Can't win em all.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Right Deception Crack (5.7)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: Both Metolious anchors are spinning at the moment. If someone wants to bring a wrench and tighten them down that would be awesome. If they don't tighten, they will need to be replaced.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Middle Deception Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: A pretty serious lead for the grade as the crux is the PG13 section, and as Will made mention, it is an enigmatic set of moves into the pod. You can tease in a #3 Camalot in an a obvious bottleneck pod before you get set up for placing the crux gear. A fall moving into the pod would not be fun, even if the gear held. The rest of the route is really enjoyable.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : The Point (5.10+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: After doing this pitch I am left wondering what is the point of this route? Chossy climbing with dubious gear leads to dirt choked blocks, lichen covered crimps, and bush wrangling to get to the first bolt on the arÍte. One star is pretty generous.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: And if someone who knows these areas and would like to do a better description, I'd be happy to reassign the page.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Williams/ Sycamore Canyon : Bill Williams Mountain : Finger Rock aka Bill Willia...
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for work DR.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: And while I appreciate people adding anchors, let's do it right.... 6-8" apart, and the same from the back of the cliff top if that's the best place for them, is it? Any chain less than 5/16" should be left as dog leashes. 3/8" chain is usually the standard.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Gone Fishin' (5.10c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This route could would be a lot better if the bottom half were cleaned if someone's looking for community service works;) The jugs up high are fun.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Flameout (5.9-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Wade and I ( well Wade really) gave this route a super brush down today, and cleaned a lot holds. Really fun warmup, and a short, well protected crux might make it a good first 5.9.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Eric. You go to West Elden now a days, and it looks as if Mother Nature is trying to reclaim it. Hard for people to imagine that this was once, thee Mt. Elden Crag during the 1970's into the early 1980's. When these lines were first established, they were often times cutting edge for their place in time.

The place could use some love, as nowadays it serves as a great beginner to moderate crag, with easy access. I wouldn't argue against any anchors as along as they are good. Let the top o... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Winslow Areas : *East Clear Creek : DWS East Clear Creek
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: With Colin's help we sorted these lines into two areas, East and West. We are thinking of ways to further sort locations, but we shall see. Please let me know if there are any glaring mistakes, and as usual, the route counts will take a day to sort out inside the site. Thanks.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Snake Run (5.12a PG13)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Maybe this deserves an R in light of recent events.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : *Prescott Area Bouldering : Senator Highway Areas, Groo... : ... : Flying Fish (V0+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: You should post a couple different pics so I could take a look. I have but faint fragments, and I curious if they line up.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : *Prescott Area Bouldering : Senator Highway Areas, Groo... : ... : Flying Fish (V0+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: It would be an interesting history if known, but such things usually get all jumbled around in history, and people forget, or don't care. When I left town in 2001, there wasn't much. I never got the full story of Face Lift, and Eclipse was sorta created. I think that's the word for it. Love the line though. I think with this type of rock some "chipping" is just a result of fractured holds. Every time something changes on a problem, people call foul on the supposed chipper just to stir the histor... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : *Prescott Area Bouldering : Senator Highway Areas, Groo... : ... : Flying Fish (V0+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: I've down it from the ground. Couldn't tell you how, but I worked it for a couple weeks before figuring out. As far as grade I don't know. V9 maybe? Guess it needs a repeat. Seems like I knew of a few others that had done it as well. At the time it felt about as hard as Touch Of Death, which I did around the same time. Condition dependent. And now that I think about it, there was a small "chipping" incident on the line at some point....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Even if it's a chain anchor....


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