Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
JJ Turning the lip of the roof on the FA of Raptur...


Member Since: May 28, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact JJ Schlick

Point Rank: # 23
Total Points: 11,859
Last Year: 3,235
Last 30 Days: 133
448 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JJ Schlick been climbing?










Contributions


All 3524 | Routes 430 | Areas 127 | Photos 1012 | Page Improvements | Comments 594 | Posts 150 | Stars 1211 | Ratings
Page 1 of 24.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : The Point (5.10+)
By: JJ Schlick When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know, you had better go lead it again.... Maybe adding three bolts at the bottom would help. I don't usually comment on routes, but this left such bad taste in mouth, I had to get it out. Can't win em all.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Right Deception Crack (5.7)
By: JJ Schlick When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Both Metolious anchors are spinning at the moment. If someone wants to bring a wrench and tighten them down that would be awesome. If they don't tighten, they will need to be replaced.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Middle Deception Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: JJ Schlick When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: A pretty serious lead for the grade as the crux is the PG13 section, and as Will made mention, it is an enigmatic set of moves into the pod. You can tease in a #3 Camalot in an a obvious bottleneck pod before you get set up for placing the crux gear. A fall moving into the pod would not be fun, even if the gear held. The rest of the route is really enjoyable.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : The Point (5.10+)
By: JJ Schlick When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: After doing this pitch I am left wondering what is the point of this route? Chossy climbing with dubious gear leads to dirt choked blocks, lichen covered crimps, and bush wrangling to get to the first bolt on the arÍte. One star is pretty generous.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip
By: JJ Schlick When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: And if someone who knows these areas and would like to do a better description, I'd be happy to reassign the page.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Williams/ Sycamore Canyon : Bill Williams Mountain : Finger Rock aka Bill Willia...
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for work DR.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: And while I appreciate people adding anchors, let's do it right.... 6-8" apart, and the same from the back of the cliff top if that's the best place for them, is it? Any chain less than 5/16" should be left as dog leashes. 3/8" chain is usually the standard.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Gone Fishin' (5.10c)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route could would be a lot better if the bottom half were cleaned if someone's looking for community service works;) The jugs up high are fun.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Flameout (5.9-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wade and I ( well Wade really) gave this route a super brush down today, and cleaned a lot holds. Really fun warmup, and a short, well protected crux might make it a good first 5.9.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks Eric. You go to West Elden now a days, and it looks as if Mother Nature is trying to reclaim it. Hard for people to imagine that this was once, thee Mt. Elden Crag during the 1970's into the early 1980's. When these lines were first established, they were often times cutting edge for their place in time.

The place could use some love, as nowadays it serves as a great beginner to moderate crag, with easy access. I wouldn't argue against any anchors as along as they are good. Let the top o... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Winslow Areas : *East Clear Creek : DWS East Clear Creek
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: With Colin's help we sorted these lines into two areas, East and West. We are thinking of ways to further sort locations, but we shall see. Please let me know if there are any glaring mistakes, and as usual, the route counts will take a day to sort out inside the site. Thanks.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Snake Run (5.12a PG13)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe this deserves an R in light of recent events.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : *Prescott Area Bouldering : Senator Highway Areas, Groo... : ... : Flying Fish (V0+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: You should post a couple different pics so I could take a look. I have but faint fragments, and I curious if they line up.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : *Prescott Area Bouldering : Senator Highway Areas, Groo... : ... : Flying Fish (V0+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It would be an interesting history if known, but such things usually get all jumbled around in history, and people forget, or don't care. When I left town in 2001, there wasn't much. I never got the full story of Face Lift, and Eclipse was sorta created. I think that's the word for it. Love the line though. I think with this type of rock some "chipping" is just a result of fractured holds. Every time something changes on a problem, people call foul on the supposed chipper just to stir the histor... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : *Prescott Area Bouldering : Senator Highway Areas, Groo... : ... : Flying Fish (V0+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I've down it from the ground. Couldn't tell you how, but I worked it for a couple weeks before figuring out. As far as grade I don't know. V9 maybe? Guess it needs a repeat. Seems like I knew of a few others that had done it as well. At the time it felt about as hard as Touch Of Death, which I did around the same time. Condition dependent. And now that I think about it, there was a small "chipping" incident on the line at some point....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Even if it's a chain anchor....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag : ... : Little Jugger Left (5.10)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Though it doesn't look like much from the ground, this line is deceptively steep, and deceptively pumpy for it's modest height. High second clip is no joke. If you do Little Jugger Right first, you can easily hang a long draw, or even a full runner on this bolt when lowering.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle : Sweet Back (5.12-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Snuck out there today, and all the holds are still there. It's not a straight forward crux, but it is pretty damn good once you figure out how to do it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Climb It Change (5.13-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe you should have turned the fall into a "glory whip":)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag : ... : The Black Bulge? (5.10+)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Possible changes at the top of the may have lead to it being easier than posted.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Climb It Change (5.13-)
By: JJ Schlick When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: During my first visit to The Red River Gorge in 95, there were some pro climbers at the Miilitary Wall one day. I watched as one climbed up to the cruxy top of Thirsting Skull, then he dynoed, slapped the chains in mid flight, and screamed with success even as he was still falling. He claimed the send. It was then I learned that while climber's share a history, and an explicit language to describe our endeavors, there are no referees, no yellow cards, and no hardened rule book. Just ourselves.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag : ... : Little Stout (5.12b)
By: JJ Schlick When: May 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Last time I was on this line the pinch hold in the crux was fractured. May even be gone by now. Climbing just right of bolt line makes for good climbing, and roughly the same grade, though the clips become reachy:(


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag : ... : Photo
By: JJ Schlick When: May 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Beautiful photo of a beautiful line!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : ABM (5.11b)
By: JJ Schlick When: May 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Alcoholic Blues Machine..... It's a DL thing. As long as we're throwing out possibilities;)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag
By: JJ Schlick When: May 29, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I've seen what you consider good climbing Kevin... don't worry about me;)


Page 1 of 24.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!