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Member Since: Jul 13, 2011
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact jim.dangle

Point Rank: # 149
Total Points: 3,439
Last Year: 724
Last 30 Days: 529
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has jim.dangle been climbing?










Contributions


All 1051 | Routes 142 | Areas 65 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 168 | Posts 308 | Stars 173 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Little Agassiz : White Veil Through The Mist (V11) : Photo (Copy)
By: jim.dangle When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The starting cave to White Veil Through The Mist is visible on the far side of the pad.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Little Agassiz : White Veil Through The Mist (V11)
By: jim.dangle When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I got the above info from Joel Brady. I have to say the mantle onto the face looks absolutely heinous.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Town Line Boulders aka Sout... : Dungeon Boulders : The Darkling (V11)
By: jim.dangle When: 2 days ago

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Comments: It would be good to see it repeated because some of the holds may have crumbled. Last time I was out there I even wondered whether it had been chipped because it looked much easier than when I had tried it before (but I am in no way a double-digit climber).


Also there is possible project crimp line to the right of this. Probably harder.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Ravenswood Park : Wallace Pond Boulders
By: jim.dangle When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: There are some good looking boulders on private property and close to houses in this area along Magnolia Ave.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Access update: I drove up New Way Lane this morning, and it looks like the No Parking signs are no longer up in the tiny parking area.

I would still exercise a lot of caution parking there. There is room for one maybe two cars. Do not block the gate or park on the road. I would avoid parking here entirely in the summer when people are suspected of swimming and the lot can be filled. Boulderers have been ticketed for swimming just because their cars were parked here.

You may still have to de... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Haskell Pond AKA Redrock We... : The Plow
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: There is also a smaller boulder next to this with a few easy routes on it.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Access is unclear. Last time I was down on New Way Lane (maybe 3 months ago), the "No Parking Emergency Police Ban" signs were still up, though they were faded. I don't how long "Emergency Police Bans" are supposed to last. It's been two years. I tried contacting the Gloucester police a year ago or so with no response. Ultimately it sucks, but I wouldn't park there.

Few people really boulder here, so it doesn't matter that much, but it's shame because the Dyke's area probably has the best boul... more >>


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know the name of this route?


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : One Drop of Water. V (5.9+ A3)
By: jim.dangle When: Mar 23, 2015

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Comments: According to the Sykes book, this route was freed with one point of aid by Neal Cannon and Alison Osius in 1984. The fifth pitch is the crux at 5.11 X A0.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Cloak and Dagger (V2)
By: jim.dangle When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: There was major rockfall here recently. The large detached flake (referred to above as "the dagger") has now fallen off and is laying at the base along with another larger flake.

I'm surprised this fell off as the cliffs in Redrock are generally pretty stable. Not sure if it was trundled or not.

Jim


Location: NH : WM: Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge
By: jim.dangle When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: A word about the approach, which was found to be a little confusing: The Welch-Dickie trail runs counter-clockwise in a loop over both mountains passing over the slabs towards its end. The fastest way to the slabs therefore is to head clockwise around the trail. So from the parking lot head to the left up the wide unmarked path. After a tenth of mile or so you will see a sign for the Welch-Dickie trail on the right. Take this and the slabs are maybe a bit less than a mile along.

Also, t... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: There is a ton of problems in this area. Few are that great, but the approach is easy, the parking is legal, and a good handful of the boulders are high and exposed so they dry very fast after rain. On the otherhand, avoid this place on hot, sunny day.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Silo Boulder : Android (V3-)
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: There is good full sit of this that goes at V3 or so and really improves the problem.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Conifer Boulder : Pallbearer (V5-)
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: Shorty but a goody.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Storm Boulder : The Storm (V7)
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: I did a version of this using the same beta described by Old Timer except I reached for a shallow solution pocket above the black crimp with my left instead of the admittedly cooler black crimp. Grade is also probably height dependent at the start (if you are taller you can reach a better part of the left starting hold). Seemed V5-V6 to me, but I was pretty burned out from repeatedly trying it a much harder way.

Still a great line.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Trailside Boulder 2 : Total Recall (V4+)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This one of the better and harder V4s around. Not a lot of subtlety here, just pretty burly, and definitely no gimme at the grade. May be harder if you are tall as I had to campus the opening moves.

It seems like there are two variations. One jogs left and then heads up for an awkward, committing topout. The other traverses left along the good slopey rail and joins Supersized thus avoiding the tricky topout but adding a couple of moves. Both are good.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Doug's Roof (5.11 V2)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Fresh shit smeared all over this as of today 9/27. It's disgusting, and the whole area smells.

It's really disappointing as this climb is local classic, and I think may even be mentioned in Yankee Rock and Ice.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Splitter (5.9-)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: The transition in the upper crack protects well with microcams.

Hard route to grade, because there is really only a short tricky section and the rest is straightforward.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Adventures with Kate & Enoc... (5.7+)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice route and a great addition if still a little dirty. The upper crack was particularly fun. We did the direct start and still felt 5.7 and pretty G-rated and not at all the crux. You do have to make a move or two, but there is a good stance where you can place a fine, high small cam.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Plateau Boulder : Flight of the Nuthatch (V7)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: Nice send, Dan.

I can sit start this reaching up to the arete with my left and the bottom of the ok crimp with my right, but the start way under the lip seemed really hard.

Jim


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Stone Tower area : Slant Right Boulder : Comment : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: Probably Eastern Phoebe chicks.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : The Schwartz (V3-4) : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Going more or less straight up to ok crimps or the near vertical right slanting crack seems doable at maybe grade harder and could eat your fingers.

I went to the sort of horn visible in the picture.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: The little clusters of boulders that make the main area here is one of the best spots around for a little session. You can park close (look for a pull off past the cemetery) so its minutes from the car. The climbing is pretty varied from overhanging jug hauls to steep crimping to slabs and although there is no real classic problem the rock is such that there are numerous variations possible anywhere from V0 to probably V10.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : Badass (V4)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: There is an easier way to get up this face, but the way Old Timer suggests is definitely the best value. Also, looks like a lower start down in the cave that would add a couple grades.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : One-Trick Pony (V4)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Another very height dependent line in this area.


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