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Member Since: Feb 24, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Jimbo
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Point Rank: # 364
Total Points: 1,829
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 1
59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1035 | Routes 79 | Areas 5 | Photos 90 | Page Improvements | Comments 514 | Posts 249 | Stars 88 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Go Speed Racer (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Let me get this straight, JBak, you had never done Go Speed Racer until now? Arguably the best 5.10 sport route on the mountain. You really need to expand your horizons my friend.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Down Under : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: This is not Hard Yaka, this is Digit redo, 10d.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Down Under : Hard Yakka (5.11-)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: I got on this again today. Something definitely changed since we put it up. It's got nothing to do with .11a Closer to .11d now. Not sure what broke where but it's not the same climb we posted in 2010.

I had no issues with the run out after the crux. Easy climbing and there is a huge side pull that makes the clip casual.

I will admit if I drilled this today a would put the first bolt on the upper head wall a lot lower and add another before the anchor. I'm not sure enough people climb he... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Win, Lose, No Draws (5.11)
By: Jimbo When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Thanks guys. The dudes that developed this are slackers. Thanks for stepping up and finishing the job!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Down Under
By: Jimbo When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: Charles,
There are plenty of places well away from the routes for kids to hang out safely.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lady of the Knight (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Paul, 5.10 and .10c are pretty much the same rating. I would concur that Lady of the Knight is a bit harder than Cornickcopia. One letter grade or so.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Chimichanga (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: If the bolt is spinning we often loosen the hanger then smack the bolt back into the hole and re-tighten. More times than not this will cause the cone to re-engage the side of the hole and snug down tight. Of course most climbers don't have a hammer with them at the crag. But good on ya for carrying a wrench. That's more than most will do.
You were right to stop trying to tighten the bolt once it was spinning.
Usually a spinning hanger is just a matter of snugging the bolt down again which is ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Chimichanga (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the heads up Tomily. I'll get out there soon and check the condition of those bolts. You were very likely safe to fall on those bolts. I've done battle with spinners before and in granite they don't pull any easier than any other bolt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: That's the road cut where you park for Boneyard and Ridge line.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Anna's Route (5.12)
By: Jimbo When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: The safety of the route is not in question it's the longevity of the route that is. Ray bolted it OK.

Dean Brault and I got to the chains years ago. We both broke several holds on the way up. We never bothered red pointing it.

EFR and I top roped it off the chains for Grey matter years ago and also broke a bunch of holds. I gave it a serious look again yesterday lowering off Grey Matter. It still looks like some of the holds will not stand the test of time. All I'm suggesting is give a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Anna's Route (5.12)
By: Jimbo When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: I would suggest that anyone who is keen to send this route first go up with a crow bar and pry off the copious amount of loose holds. You may find there are no longer any holds left to climb it. If there are still enough holds to get up it you will have done the community a great service.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Sahuaro Corners : Saguaro Corner (5.10)
By: Jimbo When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: Strong work Jon.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Sun Baked (No Longer Exists... (5.10c)
By: Jimbo When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: OK here's the story. I got on this route sometime ago and got up to where the anchors should have been. For a minute I thought to myself, damn I really thought they where around the corner and up another 10 feet. Turns out they were well below me in the gully with the rest of the rubble!
Before we started I commented that the rain had wash a lot of rubble down the gully. Turns out about 50 tons of rubble some of it the size of a car!

I down climbed and clipped in straight on the last bol... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Sun Baked (No Longer Exists... (5.10c)
By: Jimbo When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Not even John Baker could of clued that bit on permanently. Snark.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Lost Feather (5.11-)
By: Jimbo When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: If you had listened to the jedi posers that were telling you where they were you would not have failed young padwan.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Boyscout Wall
By: Jimbo When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Glad you liked them Tony. They are all 1 or 2 star routes but they make for a fun day in a nice setting.

Having read the comments above I have to wonder why everyone keeps finding holds to pull off. I was out there last week. We did every route but the far right one and none of the 3 of us broke a single hold, and one of our party had never been there before and was climbing close to her limit on the harder routes. I hadn't been there since last fall so it's not like I have anything wired ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Falsie (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Anchor as been added for a straight down lower.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Puppy Chow (5.8)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Chains have been added for a clean lower to the ground, no more rope grinder.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Chimichanga (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Just did this route again yesterday. For the life of me I can't figure out why anyone would be anywhere near the flake Severancepay is pointing out. The bolts are way over on the face to the left. Three of us did this route and none of us were ever even close to this flake.

In fact I remembered this post while Aleix was on it and I said to myself "What flake was that guy talking about???"

So if your anywhere close to on route, IE where the bolts are, this flake is of no concern.

Route wa... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Crack to Chimney (5.6)
By: Jimbo When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Brian, the only bolt that is easily clipped from the chimney is the first one and that's only if you start on the left side of the crack which is not the way I did it.

All the other bolts I would have had to leave the crack/chimney, climb over to the bolts, then go back into the chimney. I would call them inconvenient bolts for the chimney.

Seems maybe your need for convenience outweighed your need to climb the chimney proper. Just saying.

Also, what is the official acceptable distance... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Senior Saga (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Left a draw on the 5th bolt and bailed to the ground as I was getting pelted by the bees. Definitely still active and aggressive. I wouldn't go for the booty draw unless it's quite cold and the bees are hunkered up in the hive. One draw isn't worth your life.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Jimbo When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: To reinforce Jbak's comment. We often go back to a climb we did years ago and after climbing it wonder why we only gave it two stars.
The new guide book will have a four star system.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Jimbo When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Strong work Luke!

If it took you four hours to replace the bolts on this you need better power tools. 18 volt cut off wheels, and one of Geir's awesome bolt puller rigs would do you fine and save you time.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : South Face (5.7+ X)
By: Jimbo When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Crap I thought R/X meant really excellent. No wonder I've always been so scared on the really excellent routes I've done.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : The Mouse Wall
By: Jimbo When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: So sorry, Jon and Susan, that the guys that spent the time, effort and money to put in these routes didn't get around to posting all the info for your convenience.

I'm sure the next routes they take the time and spend the money to put in, for you to climb, they'll be more considerate of your needs.

I keep waiting to see the great, completely updated, and info filled guide to all the routes you two have put up for others to climb.

I mean they're sport routes fer Christ's sake, get on them cl... more >>


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