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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You just gotta love the Mescalito!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Don't Get Me Started (5.6)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Corinne all the way on this one. Still needs a bit of cleanup and this one will be just fun. Thanks again to the F.A.'s!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Start Me Up (5.7)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent clean face! Thanks to the F.A. folks who bolted it! Pure 5.7 and 2 Stars!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Right Line (5.9)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another good climb! Yes a bit easier than Left Line IMO, but still a 5.8 and worth doing. Again 2 stars.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Left Line (5.8)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin holds between jugs. Crux down low before 3rd bolt. Solid 5.8+. Nice climb. Two stars.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : First Impressions (5.9)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the crux is 5.9+ because of the pump factor. Moving thru the dihedral and resting where their is rests still provides a pump which has to be delt with at the crux. For shure a Sandbag 5.9 since it's much harder than "The Unsaid" and about as hard as "Morning Thunder". Just my opinion. Tough but nice climb. Two and a half stars.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Holiday Road (5.8)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start seems like 5.6 then a 5.7 move around the 50' level and then the finishing slab seems like 5.8+ to me. Thin holds and a few moves.
Slightly harder than the crux on Bitty Buttress or Upper Ruper for that matter; both being only 2 move cruxes. Just my opinion, but then again I'm getting older now. Three stars.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : Alan's Seam (5.10a)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this climb was harder than Resident Bush by far! Didn't even get to the 3rd bolt on TR! I admit to being weak and getting older but this crack could easily be rated 5.10b/c. Good clips and Anchor in Great shape when this was posted.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : Jumping the Gun (5.9+)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: May 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is easier to traverse in from the right side to get to the first bolt (5.8+). Overall a nice climb that gets a bit interesting again at bolt 4.
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Location: CO : Rockies Win!
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Oct 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: they are gonna summit!!
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Chunky Monkey (5.10a)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice climb, but now it has bad anchor bolts!!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Aborigine (5.7)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice climb! Two stars at least.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start on this looks and seems to be in the 5.11 range? After getting to the 2nd bolt, it eases to about 5.8+. I looked for broken holds at the start but did not notice any areas that look like that was the case. We just stick-clipped the first bolt and managed OK.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a bad anchor at the top of Chunky Monkey. We marked the bottom with an X and the words bad anchor. Hope this helps!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Jun 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know what the climbs are about 3 miles in right next to the river are called or rated? We did the two on the left, and both seemed about 5.7 or something like that. I think there are 2 more just to the right, but I saw no anchors on these. They look to be about 5.8, any info??
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Mar 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: For what it is worth, I would advise Bob D. to believe Ken's account of his climbing. While he was my partner, he was not only always honest about his abilities, but of his previous experiances; which were many I guarantee!! It's a wonder Ken didn't document the very days (yes, plural) he spent on this route in the past since like most climbers he kept quite accurate diaries of his adventures. Overall, a very competent climber at the 5.10 level on traditional routes in the past, he now... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Good Virbrations (5.11b)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Dec 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob D Do not let people tell you how to bolt your climbs! The results are what matters, and if you ask me the clips (on rap bolted routes) are more thought out than climbs that have been bolted on lead for the most part. Also, when I climbed a lot, I was always very thankful for those of you who took the time and effort to establish bolted climbs. God knows the South Platte has needed people like yourself to not only establish new climbs, but to make older ones safer by re-bolting them like "... more >>
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