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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Jim Donini When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you do this one first your impression of climbs on the EP will be a little skewed. The route is on good but not great rock, and the rating is a bit soft. The other climbs that I did feature great rock and stiff ratings.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a)
By: Jim Donini When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the 5.11a rating is a sandbag. It's also on the first pitch which is usually quite cool in the morning shade. Make sure to warm up!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Jim Donini When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the route. Fun climbing. You can link quite a few pitches. Be careful with rope pulls on rappel. First pitch is as hard as anything on the climb. I would grade the climb 5.9+.
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock)
By: Jim Donini When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Too bad that the only climbs you have listed for the Pool Wall are the ones in the alcove. Except for The Groove and the Boom Boom Room the alcove routes suck compared to the main wall area. There are 80 routes (75 sport) and most of them are excellent. There are also several other venues in the area on three types of rock- metamorphised sandstone, quartzite and limestone. Good climbing with different sun exposures and no crowds. Jason Nelson's guide is available at Ouray Mountain Sports. Enjoy!
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles
By: Jim Donini When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Monomaniac,
Could be that the bugs go away by October, they were a real bother when we were there. Be assured that over the last 40 years I have climbed on a lot of different rock types. the problem could be that after 40 years this aging climber needs all the friction he can get. Your right about the quality of the easier routes. I guess my real beef is that there is no "best crag in the world." Those who make such claims are bound to get some heat. Climbing is too varied and subjective to have... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Jim Donini When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just noticed the missive from Tom Englebach about our climb on Astro Dog. Tom, thanks for flattering me with the comments about Mick Jagger. But, the truth be known, those harsh alpine bivouacs have taken there toll, it might be better to compare me with Keith Richards.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Jim Donini When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was Matt Samet climbing the same route I was? I've climbed a fair amount in the Black and think Astro Dog is one of the best. Harder cruxes than the Scenic Cruise but not quite as steep overall- you burn about the same number of calories. The raps are straight forward. It's on the south rim but doesn't go into the shade until mid-day.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Jim Donini When: Jun 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best quality route I've done in the Sierra's. Nearly as good as the climbing on the Elephant's Perch.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Jim Donini When: Jun 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Red Dihedral is a very good not great route. I give it three stars. Good climbing on above average rock and not too sustained.
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles
By: Jim Donini When: Jun 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think that Arapiles is anywhere close to being the "best crag in the world." I would give it a B. The rock is often quite polished and it's multi-pitch the way the Gunks is. That is, really short pitches. Also, if you go in Sept./Oct. be prepared to wear a face net during the day because of really pesky flies. My thoughts are shared by prominent British climbers Rab Carrington and Martin Boysen who visited the area with me last September. It's definitely worth a visit but you might get m... more >>
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