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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones
By: Jim Amidon When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Custer County South Colony Road Closure Begins This Month
Westcliffe, Colo., October 1, 2009 - The U.S. Forest Service - San Isabel National Forest, San Carlos Ranger District will permanently close the upper half of the South Colony Road, Forest Service Road (FSR) 120 to motor vehicles on October 13, 2009.
The closure near the Custer and Huerfano County line will occur approx. 2.7 miles above the lower parking lot or .2 miles above the Rainbow Trail before the first stream crossing. A trailhea... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Jim Amidon When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was in this part of the Platte with some older fellas this weekend....UNBELIEVABLE the amount of untouched rock there is there....
Shhhhhhhhhhh....
Don't want too many folks heading into there....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Jim Amidon When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hubba Hubba.....
So glad I have one of those adventurous babes....
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Emerald Lake & vicinity : ... : Photo
By: Jim Amidon When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NICE PIC.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Jim Amidon When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super sweet route with no crowds, classic Eldo stone, and just a good time when all else is standing room only. Do it in 2 long pitches, break it up into more, just a fun route....
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : Hallett Chimney IV AI 5 M5 (M5)
By: Jim Amidon When: Jun 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this my second attempt yesterday with, Mike Carr, his 3rd try. It was one of the most amazing alpine experiences for both of us. He's been climbing in the park for 30 years, me for 15.
I've looked at that route for countless years, tried to get people to climb it but never was able to get the partner and the fickleness of the route in sync.
As any alpine route is concerned weather and snowfall will dictate how a route shapes up. We had an incredible combination of great snow and w... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Jim Amidon When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes in all of Eldo....yeah it has some junk on it, but what route doesn't. Can't count how many times I've climbed this gem.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Jim Amidon When: Feb 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: **** 4 stars all the way.....how could anyone rate this 2 stars.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Smoked Turkey (WI3)
By: Jim Amidon When: Nov 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The lower and most of the pitches are in the sun so be there on a cooler day. After the initial first two pitches of fun WI3 you hike further up the drainage to the Awesome Drumstick.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : The Main Vein (WI4 PG13)
By: Jim Amidon When: Nov 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dunno when this was posted about this route, but I thought there was a different post. If you climb the seldom formed first pitch it's easily WI5, you decide, but shimmying your hands up the backside of an icicle with 50' of a slab below you with no reliable gear isn't WI4.
Check out the pictures....and it's easily a 5 star classic.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: Jim Amidon When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy Cow,
I forgot this route is so stellar it's not even funny. Another "GEM" of the South Platte....
I've climbed it twice and each pitch is remarkable....
GET ON IT >>>>>
Like most of the Platte there won't be a crowd....
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Jim Amidon When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just returned from Ten Sleep and although the climbing was sweet, finding the free camping took some time. The Forest Service campsites down canyon are a crime. Charging people to be stacked one on top of another, and adjacent to the highway. We "found" after 2-3 trips up the old highway very few spots to camp. We did find a sweet place that about 4-5 parties can camp in. There was not much to be had on the old highway. If there is "loads" of free camping on forest service land we didn't f... more >>
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Location: CO : Stashed Pad Removal Days
By: Jim Amidon When: Aug 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Park Service WILL remove any gear they find. I've had conversations with RMNP rangers and they look at it as trash.
Yes, the climbing community should be proactive and remove their stuff before some new regulation shows up.
The good thing is the park service is overworked and understaffed.
I doubt they would poach a stash for specific gear, but if they see some thing in one place more than once, well I bet you could reclaim it at RMNP lost and found.
They do look around Mills Glacier a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: Jim Amidon When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty standard Eldo route, spicy, runout, nice long pitch. Keeps you on your toes
Enjoy it, it's a nice route
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Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Jim Amidon When: May 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guy rapped off the end of his rope.
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Melting Wall : The Smoking Room (5.11b)
By: Jim Amidon When: Mar 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the better routes in all of Tonsai, great position, great features, lots of fun....
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R)
By: Jim Amidon When: Oct 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: In 13 years of ice climbing, in numerous locations, (Canada, Europe, US) this is in the top 5 climbs I've had the pleasure of climbing.
When it's in "get on it" >>>>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)
By: Jim Amidon When: Dec 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed Alexander's in late November, my 3rd or 4th time on it. It was in the thinnest shape I have seen. A small runnel of ice on the first pitch, and practically no ice getting around the chockstone, no climbable ice after that as well. I would presume that it has not grown since then. Maybe next year....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Jim Amidon When: Nov 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The mentioned "flake'" you can put a #2 Camalot behind DOES EXPAND I was there today and tried it......Basically there is no gear for the first 30 feet......Go big or go home.........I went home..
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Cheap Date (5.10b)
By: Jim Amidon When: Sep 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5 stars if I could, one of the best pitches I've ever had the pleasure of on-siting at Lumpy. There are many routes here that get my hackles up but this one was a pleasure to be on, the climbing was so damn superb the gear was a mild afterthought, but I found all of it to be great.I laid the entire thing back in a strong Lumpy breeze and had nothing but a big grin on my face the whole time.No need ever to do the Cave Exit with this gem right there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Cave Pitch (5.8)
By: Jim Amidon When: May 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #3 and #3.5 Camalot are fine for this short and fun pitch. I'd say it has less bird shit than any other route to the Upper Ramp. If the Upper Ramp is your destination and want a direct route, this is the one.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Jim Amidon When: Sep 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second time on this baby, and folks it doesn't get much better, steep, juggy and nothing but fun.A little bit of a hair raiser pulling the roof, but it all goes and wow, have fun.......
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: Jim Amidon When: Sep 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: As is the case with "The Black," there is only a limited amount of information about the routes available and without taking the photo posted here when you are at the base of these two climbs well it's not totally clear. Like a lot of routes, you figure some of it out after you have done it. We did the "Vector Traverse" starting from Comic Relief. It makes for a LONG pitch and a long traverse but you can do it with a 60m rope and a double rack. I didn't have much left on my rack when I got t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Jim Amidon When: Apr 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well [whether] you take the original line after the first pitch or the one to the left you will encounter bird crap. Either way get to the upper ramp and if you know what Eldo is about and get the lead for the next pitch, well your in for a truly [phenomenal] experience. I led this to the base of the right facing [dihedral] and had a blast the whole way, rested at the spot where the book suggest you belay from and continued for another 35' and set a belay there. The last pitch ??? To the top ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Jim Amidon When: Nov 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hiked to the far side of the Loch today, high winds and blowing snow, typical November conditions, but NO ICE ANYWHERE, no Necrophilia, Crypt, Deep Freeze, and no ice in the Practice area. Winter is around the corner, nice day for a hike but leave the tools at home for a couple more weeks.....
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