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Jim at the Boneyard TRing a route


Member Since: Sep 4, 2003
Last Visit: Nov 11, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,950
Total Points: 302
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Matt been climbing?










Contributions


All 343 | Routes | Areas | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 198 | Stars 40 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Jungle Beat (5.10)
By: Jim Matt When: Mar 18, 2007

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Comments: My climbing partner Barry and I eyed this yesterday...kind of wet and cold for March, but it looks awesome! He said he normally breaks it up in to 3 pitches...


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11-)
By: Jim Matt When: Mar 18, 2007

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Comments: I could not get the start of this..above my head, but I will be back for a rematch!!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Face Up To That Crack (5.8-)
By: Jim Matt When: Mar 18, 2007

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Comments: Super fun route! I thought the face climbing to the crack was slightly harder...maybe 5.8-5.8+, but there are only 2 really thin moves to gain the crack. Bring a #2 Camalot to plug in the crack, otherwise the route is well bolted.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Jim Matt When: Mar 13, 2007

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Comments: Ahhh...the slot pitch...my favorite!!


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : ~ : Photo
By: Jim Matt When: Feb 19, 2007

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Comments: You're back, but we're still here if you need us!! :) :)


Location: Jim Matt : Misc photos : Photo
By: Jim Matt When: Feb 16, 2007

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Comments: It was ice, I swear!! And, I thought my name was Ralph?

I'll be at Red Rocks in 10 weeks, can't wait, Gigette!

(*still shaking the cobwebs loose...*)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Jim Matt When: Feb 13, 2007

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Comments: Snow at J'Tree is very unusual, beautiful photo! But, not quite enough ice to break out the tools...LOL


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED) : Roadside Attraction (5.7)
By: Jim Matt When: Dec 14, 2006

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Comments: A couple of #2 Camalots protect the crack on the lower part perfectly. Climbing beyond the bolted rap/belay station isn't all that interesting. Fun jamming and liebacking to an exciting finish.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley
By: Jim Matt When: Dec 6, 2006

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Comments: This area is owned by two climbers, Liz and Rick Weber (two great people). They have a Web site detailing climbing rules, etc.

muirvalley.com


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall : American Crack (5.6)
By: Jim Matt When: Dec 6, 2006

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Comments: I would agree with Tony, it is one or two 5.6 moves to get off of the ground, then 5.4 with good gear all the way to the top. I remember doing this as one of my very first climbs...the start baffled me at the time.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Jim Matt When: Nov 14, 2006

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Comments: This is the exact spot where I dropped mine, my partner said, "do you have a spare locker?" I did, attached to the camera! *bounce....bounce....bounce....SMASH!!* The camera did not mean as much to me (it was older) as the pics on the card.

Oh yeah, about this picture...stemming to get through it is easiest, gear abounds on the left, and take your pack off!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Jim Matt When: Nov 13, 2006

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Comments: Don't drop your camera from here...that would be very bad...LOL.


Location: Angela Mabe : pics : Photo
By: Jim Matt When: Nov 6, 2006

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Comments: Looks like White Whale...start of 2nd pitch? :)


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Irene's Arete (5.8)
By: Jim Matt When: Sep 5, 2006

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Comments: This was a freaking great climb...but a bit of a sad memory, as I climbed it with the late Doug Coombs back in July, 2004. We had decided to do all of the hard pitches, including the awesome 5.10a variation near the top. The free solo climber that passed us was obviously a stud, but I could not watch him for very long...made me too nervous, and I still had to climb!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7)
By: Jim Matt When: Jun 11, 2006

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Comments: This is a great route, however, please heed the warning to avoid the water groove on the right near the top of the third pitch. I did not, and paid the price by taking a ~40' whipper (fortunately, my gear and belayer held). I made the mistake of not checking the guidebook before hand. That water groove IMHO is more like polished 5.9+ R/X. Otherwise...very cool and well protected route...I'll be back in August to do it ON ROUTE! :)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Jim Matt When: May 1, 2006

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Comments: Climbed this on 4/17 (my partner Gina led all of the pitches). I thought it was a great route...lots of different options especially up high. We started around 1 PM and had the route to ourselves on a rather cool and windy day (except for Alex and Greg, another party of two with us who climbed just ahead of us). I thought the crux was the face climbing to the bolt on the 5th (chockstone) pitch. I wasn't too much of a fan climbing above this pitch...but the rest of it was spectacular. By the way,... more >>


Location: Doug Coombs Killed
By: Jim Matt When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: My deepest sympathies to Doug's family, friends and coworkers. Doug guided me up Irene's Arete back in July of 2004. He was such a fun and relaxed guy to be around...he made sure we did all of the "hard" variations that day. His spirit and enthusiasm will be sorely missed.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Jim Matt When: Feb 27, 2006

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Comments: Tried to head up to AMU on 2/23... the trail was not packed down and we were wallowing in waist deep snow, so we opted for the East Slabs of Black Lake instead. From our vantage poin above Mills Lake, AMU looked a bit weathered.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Jim Matt When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Yeah, I saw this new bolt too in August. It really is a piece of shite, not too far above the second bolt, if memory serves (maybe 20' above?) just over a bulge. You cannot see it from the start of the route...I wouldn't want to fall on it. Someone needs to chop it, and soon.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: Jim Matt When: Oct 2, 2005

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Comments: My partner (Jay) and I climbed this on 9/30/2005, and we are both climbers stuck in Indiana, so take that for what it is worth. I have climbed quite a bit in Colorado (Petit Grepons, Culp Bossier, etc), and I consider Solar Slab to be a near-classic, just below the quality of other routes that I have climbed. For the record, we started mega-early, and parked at the old Oak Creek Campground. The approach (in the dark) from there was not obvious. I led the first pitch of the gully...we then essent... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron
By: Jim Matt When: Sep 14, 2004

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Comments: "JOIN RAPPEL ROPES WITH AN OVERHAND BEND You can tie two ropes together for a long rappel in several ways. The double fisherman's knot or a retraced figure-8 are both secure, but they have bulky profiles that can snag or abrade when you pull them from below. They can also be difficult to untie. Many guides prefer the overhand bend, which is more than adequate for the forces involved in rappelling and less likely to snag. When using the overhand bend, tie it neatly, cinch the knot tight and leave... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Jim Matt When: Jun 7, 2004

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Comments: I've climbed this route twice in the past 9 months...a great route! In fact, it was my first multi-pitch climb 5 years ago (climbed it with a guide). It was nice to go out and free it with my climbing buddies...it is kind of like coming full circle! Anyway, one of the bolts on top of the pinnacle (the one to the rappellers right), the nut holding the hanger on the bolt is a bit loose. I tightened it to the best of my ability with a leatherman last year, and it appeared loose again on 5/23. I han... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Jim Matt When: Sep 4, 2003

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Comments: Did this route a few days ago (on 9/2) with Bob Chase (a guide from the Colorado Mountain School). I needed him, as I am but a "novice" (can only lead up to about 5.6 trad). Everything that has been said about this route is true...and more. Last year, I did the Petit Grepon, and this route is much more sustained, strenuous, and fun (not to take anything away from the Petit). It is a great study in edging (all of those little micro edges are pretty bomb). Just when you are about ready to give up,... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Girlfriend's first alpine route. Suggestions?ColoradoJim MattMay 30, 2013
re: The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread ColoradoJim MattMay 30, 2013
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