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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 533
Total Points: 1,224
Last Year: 337
Last 30 Days: 30
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 989 | Routes 42 | Areas 22 | Photos 70 | Page Improvements | Comments 124 | Posts 51 | Stars 638 | Ratings 42
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Crimps Are For Pimps (5.11- PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This route has a super dirty and uninspiring lower section, but it's worth it for the quality climbing on the clean face above. Very spicy: bring your A game. As of this writing, there's no bolt anchor, but rather some long slings on a tree that hang over the edge.

Oh yeah -- the only "handcrack" is at the very top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : Bowline With A Blowjob Fini... (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This route is listed as a toprope, which is true but you have to lead a neighboring route first, or rappel in from above.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : J Rat's Back (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: The crux is a really big move, or more probably a dyno after the 4th bolt. If you move left, you can avoid this crux staying on big holds, perhaps reducing the grade a bit.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Willy Wonka (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: This climb is a good break from the other pump-fests on the wall. It's one technical move after another with good stances between. Excellent!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Hellbound Area : Hellbound for Glory (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: I thought the zigzag crack start added excellent variety to the classic face above. There's a ton of climbing between the first and second bolts; it does add an unfortunate swing for the second, though.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Lake Pleasant Quarry
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, I think a 30m rope would work OK. The routes are short!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Hi Chuck, you created a superb route here!

I think the existing protection placement is masterful. If you think it can be longer, then yay!!! If you do, something to consider is to keep the lower anchor for those with 60m ropes? (Also, it's a useful anchor for the mixed/ice route that starts up the Thunderhead corner.) Another consideration is that this is the first pitch of an amazing, three-pitch, full-length linkup (MtS to Cirrhosis to Under the Influence).

Glue-ins are nice for sure, but p... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : Mission to Mars (5.11c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: This route was once called "Shining Path", a name invented by locals due to lack of FA info. Since the first edition of Adirondack Rock, the FAers came forward. The correct name is Mission to Mars.

P1 is quite good. P2 is 5.11c (or so I thought) with some friable rock. There is a third aid pitch and a high anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Cedar River Crag : BLF (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: There's a direct 5-bolt start to this route, Pudding Snack (5.11c) that's really good.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Regarding the anchor: The original route went to the top. A convenience anchor appeared on the tree after the "good" climbing, and was used for many years until the tree died. A bolted anchor briefly appeared in place of the tree, and was removed. The gear anchor appeared more recently, and didn't make it into the guidebook. Sometimes these things are moving targets.

Did you really go to the top because the guidebook said to? (Btw, it actually doesn't say that.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Positive Latitude (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: P2 is one of the most amazing pitches anywhere. Super good dimple climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Region : Bear Den
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Hurricane Irene really changed the approach from a nice trail to a blowdown-infested bushwhack. It's recovering, but be ready to hunt and peck a bit to find the best way.

On a most positive note, the trail to the Polar Soldier Wall (the first part of the approach) is pretty casual now due to some new route activity there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Garden of Leadin' (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Instead of going right to the anchors, you can go left to another set of anchors on top of Pothead (5.12a). This allows you to work that route on toprope, if that's desired.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: One more thing -- you can link P1 and P2 together, but this makes for rope drag on the very delicate and balancy section of P2. Best to break the pitches, in my opinion.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: There's no anchor at the end of P1. I just clip the first bolt of P2 and use that, plus maybe a piece of gear in the giant block you sit on.

To descend from the top anchor, a 70m rope makes it to the P2 anchor. From here a 60m rope is all that is necessary to return to the ground.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome, the best of its kind in the park.

You need #0.5 and #1 Camalot for P1. After that, it's all fixed until the last pitch, which requires a #3 Camalot. The P4 belay requires #1 and #2 Camalots.

As of the beginning of Sep, 2014, the top anchor is missing. You'll need some long cord to re-establish this.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Tier Pressure (5.8+ R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This is considered by some to be the best route (in the grade, at least) at Sugarloaf, better than Quadrophenia and Hesitation. The first pitch is horribly overgrown (even though it's been cleaned many times in the past).

To more easily approach the upper pitches, start 25' left in a depression and climb horrible grunge up and right to a fixed anchor of the original route. This is the line of the original ascent. The upper climbing is totally worth it.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Steve, that sharp right turn goes to the road and is indeed a shortcut through private property that some locals use (with permission from the landowner).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Neanderthal Cave : Breaking Bad (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Gunkiemike: That's Dweezil Extension (5.8).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls : The Eagle Has Landed (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: This is an especially good route, one that I do every time I visit. The crux is moving right under the roof at the second bolt. The traverse left takes a #0.5 Camalot and is the second crux. Once on the arete, it doesn't ease up for a few move moves.

The fixed anchor is on the right side of the arete. The anchor to the left is for Stihl Water.

You can avoid the crux by starting as for LM, the large left-facing flake to the right. Climbed this way the grade is reduced to 5.10b or so.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Snowy Mt
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: The terrain between Water Streak and Redneck is packed pretty tight with routes. Left and right of those...maybe.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : White Knight (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: White Knight 5.10? Seriously?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Hi Derek, I don't have much of an opinion where the initial grade comes from. I will say that even though guidebooks like ours try to get the grades right, there's always somebody that thinks they're wrong.

But regarding consensus grades on MP, I have a feeling that people only set the grade if their opinion differs from that which is posted. I don't think this is a true consensus since the only votes are the ones from people that disagree with the posted grade. Suppose the route is listed as 1... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Space Walk (5.11c/d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: I thought the pure finger crack variation was perhaps the best route of its grade in the Tahoe area.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Some aspects of your description match Moss Cliff. Actually, I can think of no other 3-pitch-high cliff with a river crossing.


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