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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 20 mins ago
Contact Jim Lawyer

Point Rank: # 403
Total Points: 1,755
Last Year: 416
Last 30 Days: 22
22 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Lawyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1496 | Routes 62 | Areas 28 | Photos 112 | Page Improvements | Comments 155 | Posts 75 | Stars 980 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: For bouldering, check out Adirondack Park Bouldering by Justin Sanford.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Aquarium : Rum Doodle (5.7)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: I noticed (and was alarmed by) the "unfortunate graffiti" last weekend (Sep 5, 2016). It appears that people are scraping the moss off the rock to form letters. It's not paint or scratching on the rock. This is a new thing, and is totally unacceptable. It's 50' from the Giant Mtn Trailhead, so it's not surprising, and is consistent with the piles of poop in the woods next to the trailhea... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: Shane: That hasn't been added. Got for it!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Ragged Mountain : Runnin' Ragged (5.11b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: There's a bolt at the crux. It really helps to have a draw pre-placed on this, especially if you're short.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Slavery Wall : Happiness in Slavery (5.12b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Having done a bunch of 12s at Ten Sleep and Wild Iris, I fail to understand the hype of this route. I found it hard for the grade, and a couple of the pockets bit me. Ouch! Amazing wall though.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Babareena Area : Snake Flake (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I saw a couple of these anchor setups at Ten Sleep. If you add a leaver-biner to the end of the chain, then it equalizes nicely with the shut. Perhaps people are stealing the leaver-biners, leaving the chain dangerously higher than the shut? In other words, if you thread the chain, under tension the rope will slip out of the shut.

The problem would be solved if the chain was 3-4" longer. Until it's fixed, this is a single-point rappel/lower-off.

The route its... more >>


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Little Bear Gulch 28 Routes...
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Bear Scat Rock is a five-star location, and there is no fire damage anywhere on the approach or cliff that we could see (Aug 2016).

"Muzzle Loader" was especially good. "Woody's Hard One" also good, although the bushes were a pain. There is some loose rock, and the area has a newish feeling. No surprise. All routes bolt protected.

The approach map shown in the guidebook is wrong (but more correct than the descripti... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Smear Campaign (5.10+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Agree 100% Jon. More like 11b...or Meschinelli "10b". Ha ha ha.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: TommyWiggins: I've asked this exact question to Mellor, Cilley, and Barber.

There appears to be a general lack of remembering. Barber either (a) had a high first piece and reached the belay before the knot reached the first piece, or (b) the second began climbing before he reached the belay. In 2006 Barber told me it was probably a simul-climb situation, but didn't really recall.

Barber also doesn't recall who he did the route with, ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Flavor of the Day (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The key jug-shelf below the roof often has a tiny bird's nest (apparently it's a perfect sport for a nest.) Check beforehand or you may reach up and squash eggs or chicks.

(This is a sport route; no additional gear is necessary.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Patey's Gully (WI3-4)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps this is a variation, but it's the way I've always done it. At the top of the corner, you step left, then go straight up to a roof at the top of the corner about 80' up. Go up the right wall of the corner around the roof, then straight up to the trees. A long pitch with good rock gear to 3" (usually).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : California Flake (5.9+ PG13) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: rgold - not really. If you can stomach the ratty pitons below (the crux of the pitch), then you probably won't mind the run out to the anchor. And, no, there are presently no bolts on the first pitch.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Poker Face (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Yes, trees at the top of P1.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the direct: At the start of the traverse, go straight up. The crux at the angled ceiling is the protected by nuts in a corner below your feet; the top of this corner seems to be an unstable block. Hence the R rating.

It's a good lead, but best rehearsed on TR.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Hans: There are several aid lines remaining at Wallface, such as Huff 'n Puff and The Mission to Mars. The other notable line is Mental Blocks, which is climbed mainly as a clean aid route, although has gone free as 12a.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Cedar River Crag : Fritzie's Honor (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: An interesting historical note: this route was cleaned in the 1990s by David Buzzelli, but he never returned to climb it.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Beaverview : ... : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: uh....rock climbing?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Diamonds Aren't Forever (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Bernard: The crux section is in the middle, and it's definitely easier (and tempting) to move right to Bee Hold. Flakes have definitely broken off, but it is speculation whether this made the route harder. Perhaps it was always a sandbag?

I have since climbed it directly and I think 11a or 11b is a fair grade.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : arboli
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the best walls in the Siurana region. Awesome endurance climbs with long pitches. Great photo ops, and a nice communal base area.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Martini Wall
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: This is a hidden gem, and one of the best places to go on a sunny, hot day.

I always wade across (about 20', knee-deep) the base of Shipton's. Also know that you have to bushwhack across the forested slope below Chouinard's Gully to reach the Power Play amphitheater.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: Awesome news Chuck! Thanks for the community service.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The King Wall : Kingdom Come (5.12a A0)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: If it's raining, P2 will fill your chalk bag with water :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: The top anchor was removed...again. There's a new fixed anchor 30' right; look for bolts just over the lip. This straightens out the rappel too. The raps are 40m, 45m, and 50m.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Tombstone (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: I think this is one of the best routes of its grade in the region. It has excellent protection and varied climbing (jamming, laybacking, face climbing). I agree that the protection at the top is more spaced, but I find that I can pretty much place gear with my previous piece near my feet.

Note that the fixed anchor at the top is hidden under tree branches. It sits back pretty far and isn't great for rappelling. You can rappel with a single rope using the fixed anchor just over the edge climber'... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Ape X (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: The Upper South Corner Cliffs is a collection of walls separated by ledges. As Crane gets developed, these subwalls are becoming easier to access; the main point of access to these walls is the path that leads to the base of the Jammer Wall.

Ape X is located on the Animal Charm Wall, which is positioned above the Jammer Wall.

The Animal Charm Wall is split by a steep, left-rising ramp; the routes Blueberry Pie and Animal Charm are on the left side of the wall (directly abov... more >>


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