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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Jim Lawyer

Point Rank: # 422
Total Points: 1,666
Last Year: 392
Last 30 Days: 45
21 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Lawyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1419 | Routes 60 | Areas 27 | Photos 105 | Page Improvements | Comments 150 | Posts 73 | Stars 925 | Ratings 79
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: TommyWiggins: I've asked this exact question to Mellor, Cilley, and Barber.

There appears to be a general lack of remembering. Barber either (a) had a high first piece and reached the belay before the knot reached the first piece, or (b) the second began climbing before he reached the belay. In 2006 Barber told me it was probably a simul-climb situation, but didn't really recall.

Barber also doesn't recall who he did the route with, ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Flavor of the Day (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The key jug-shelf below the roof often has a tiny bird's nest (apparently it's a perfect sport for a nest.) Check beforehand or you may reach up and squash eggs or chicks.

(This is a sport route; no additional gear is necessary.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Patey's Gully (WI3-4)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps this is a variation, but it's the way I've always done it. At the top of the corner, you step left, then go straight up to a roof at the top of the corner about 80' up. Go up the right wall of the corner around the roof, then straight up to the trees. A long pitch with good rock gear to 3" (usually).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : California Flake (5.9+ PG13) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: rgold - not really. If you can stomach the ratty pitons below (the crux of the pitch), then you probably won't mind the run out to the anchor. And, no, there are presently no bolts on the first pitch.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Poker Face (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Yes, trees at the top of P1.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the direct: At the start of the traverse, go straight up. The crux at the angled ceiling is the protected by nuts in a corner below your feet; the top of this corner seems to be an unstable block. Hence the R rating.

It's a good lead, but best rehearsed on TR.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Hans: There are several aid lines remaining at Wallface, such as Huff 'n Puff and The Mission to Mars. The other notable line is Mental Blocks, which is climbed mainly as a clean aid route, although has gone free as 12a.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Cedar River Crag : Fritzie's Honor (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: An interesting historical note: this route was cleaned in the 1990s by David Buzzelli, but he never returned to climb it.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Beaverview : ... : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: uh....rock climbing?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Diamonds Aren't Forever (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Bernard: The crux section is in the middle, and it's definitely easier (and tempting) to move right to Bee Hold. Flakes have definitely broken off, but it is speculation whether this made the route harder. Perhaps it was always a sandbag?

I have since climbed it directly and I think 11a or 11b is a fair grade.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : arboli
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the best walls in the Siurana region. Awesome endurance climbs with long pitches. Great photo ops, and a nice communal base area.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Martini Wall
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: This is a hidden gem, and one of the best places to go on a sunny, hot day.

I always wade across (about 20', knee-deep) the base of Shipton's. Also know that you have to bushwhack across the forested slope below Chouinard's Gully to reach the Power Play amphitheater.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: Awesome news Chuck! Thanks for the community service.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The King Wall : Kingdom Come (5.12a A0)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: If it's raining, P2 will fill your chalk bag with water :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: The top anchor was removed...again. There's a new fixed anchor 30' right; look for bolts just over the lip. This straightens out the rappel too. The raps are 40m, 45m, and 50m.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Tombstone (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: I think this is one of the best routes of its grade in the region. It has excellent protection and varied climbing (jamming, laybacking, face climbing). I agree that the protection at the top is more spaced, but I find that I can pretty much place gear with my previous piece near my feet.

Note that the fixed anchor at the top is hidden under tree branches. It sits back pretty far and isn't great for rappelling. You can rappel with a single rope using the fixed anchor just over the edge climber'... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Ape X (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: The Upper South Corner Cliffs is a collection of walls separated by ledges. As Crane gets developed, these subwalls are becoming easier to access; the main point of access to these walls is the path that leads to the base of the Jammer Wall.

Ape X is located on the Animal Charm Wall, which is positioned above the Jammer Wall.

The Animal Charm Wall is split by a steep, left-rising ramp; the routes Blueberry Pie and Animal Charm are on the left side of the wall (directly abov... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : California Flake (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: Ryan, there's always been a bolt on P3. Unless you saw 2 bolts, in which case that would be very unusual.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: I don't believe this is a serious lead (serious to me means R or X), and here's why: Putting aside the runout at the top, you can place bomber gear always with the previous gear at your feet. The runout at the top is at the lesser grade of ~5.7, and although a fall from there would be BIG, it's all air, and the gear that protects this runout can be doubled and tripled up.

You don't get gear above your head for all the hard bits, so from that perspective, it is more engaging than some.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Pandemonium (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: ...or just solo The Snake and avoid all the hassles. P3 is a must-do.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Flavor of the Day (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: I thought more like 12a. The only crux is pulling the roof. (I don't recall being stressed in any way below the roof.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Torcher (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: This is a totally under-appreciated route...lots of stars! You can avoid the wide start (and the need for wide gear) by climbing on the right of the offwidth, then stepping left across the top of it.

I've never seen anyone on it, and it seems to have escaped notice by those that climb the grade.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Diagonal Chockstone Chimney (5.4)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: The lower chimney is often used as an alternative to P1 of Pegasus, and is quite fun. The upper corner has been pruned and is pleasant. It's definitely better than it looks. It's also an excellent winter route with great protection.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Grassi Lakes : ... : Meathooks (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Now equipped with perma draws.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Two Evil Deeds (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: What Nick said...excellent route, and possibly the best route on this wall.


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