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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best .10a pitches in the Chapel Pond area.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Parallel Passage (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this deceptively difficult, pretty stiff for a 9.
When the angle eases, you can traverse right and lower from the fixed anchor on Plumb Line (setting you up to TR that route).
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Butterflies are Free (5.8+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this for the first time recently. I was able to get a good micro cam (#00 or #0 TCU) to protect the opening moves off the ledge.
Like Cannon, this place is falling apart.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Rule of the Bone (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For what it's worth, here's what I recorded word-for-word immediately after climbing the route. (I use a digital recorder to capture these details at the cliff while it's fresh and all the gear used in the route is in a pile.)
"Small TCUs, #2 Camalot critical, double yellow Alien, double green Alien, 1 red Alien, #0 TCU critical. ...There's a good horizontal below the roof. Make the clip, then move right and make a long reach to a bucket right of the bolt, then another really long r... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Black Arch Arête (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what a varied line! -- a handcrack, then an arete, and finally and steep crimpy face. Can lower with a 70m rope. Super good!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Critical Crimps (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar line, 5 stars for sure. You can lower with a 70m rope from the "Attic".
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Big Slide Mtn. : Freudian Slip (5.9-)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you like this climb, you can get a longer version of it with a shorter approach at the Upper Slab at Olympic Acres (aka Bear Den).
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Freedom Flight -- there's a large crop of poison ivy about halfway across the traverse. There are no cracks above or below the patch, so it's impossible to keep the ropes out of it. Good luck!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Air Male (5.11d PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has been extended beyond what is described in the guidebook, Adirondack Rock. The above description is correct for the full [extended] pitch.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Derek, there's even a photo of you on this route in the guidebook!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally, I found P1 of Psalm 32 to be harder than P1 of Southern Hospitality. Not that it matters, but I onsighted P1 of SH, and failed on the last move of P32...even on TR, I couldn't figure it out. Anyway, the reprint makes it clear that some people find it easier.
I have to admit at being a little defensive about the "cryin' out loud" comment and the "significantly out of whack ratings at Poko" comment. We've tried to strike a balance in grading by listening to as many people as possible,... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The reprint of Adirondack Rock says this about P1 of Psalm 32, "Some consider P1 to be 5.11b, while others walk away sandbagged; you decide." I doubt anyone would call it .11a. I know of two (!) 5.13 climbers that bailed off that last move, and I know several .11 climbers that got it. Go figure.
Regarding the other "out of whack" grades, check the reprint. Some grades were adjusted by consensus. Remember, the Poke-O grades were given to us by the Poke-O regulars, like Eisinger, Munn, ... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Info on Silver Lake can be found here. This area is north of Whiteface and not far from Poke-O. It consists of 14 major cliffs, and opened to the public in 2009.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Partition (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you've rappelled, you scramble climber's left (not skier's left) along the base of the cliff.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot, especially full size. Really gives you persective on the Shield area. I can pick out the features on Pleasure Victim and Eastern Shield!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick - This is the second time today that I've heard criticism of the protection ratings in the Adirondack guidebook. However, we have not received any suggestions for changes in this area. Please -- if you find a protection rating you feel is inaccurate, let us know so we can fix them...especially if you think they are dangerous!
-Jim
jim@summsoft.com
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this .10c or .11a?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the descent -- the rappel on the right end of the cliff is really easy -- one rap with a 60m rope returns you to the base. Easy pull too. For some reason, this hasn't caught on. This also avoids rappelling over all the crowds on the Wiessner Route and neighboring routes.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.11a) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll second that -- excellent photo, Jay.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris -
Yes, the rock is unique for the park. Way more featured than anywhere else with pockets, plates, and ribs. This is the only place outside of the High Peaks with anorthosite, which tends to be more interesting than the gneiss found everywhere else. As mentioned, the setting adds to the appeal. A long approach, but that's also a good thing, keeping away the crouds and adding to the view. With respect to "draws only", don't forget the #4 Camalot if you want to do Redneck, the undeni... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Pat Tricks (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route doesn't stop at the cedar. It continues up through a roof with a bolt (crux, difficult clip).
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The directions need adjustment. First, from Exit 23, you go north (or west) on NY9, not east. The roads change names and are confusing. This link should resolve any ambiguity about the directions:
maps.google.com/maps?f=d&saddr=Diamond+Point+Rd&daddr=43.537>>>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For new rock climbing routes in Adirondack Park, go here: www.AdirondackRock.com/newroutes.htm
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Pegasus (5.7+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux roof on the second pitch fell to the ground last year, taking the hand rail and piton. There is a lone tooth remaining (as of 4/6/08) which is highly suspect. The route is much harder now.
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