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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 543
Total Points: 1,195
Last Year: 323
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 957 | Routes 41 | Areas 22 | Photos 67 | Page Improvements | Comments 120 | Posts 50 | Stars 616 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Yes, it's a bit dirty, and it's a little runout at the start. Even so, this an *incredible* pitch. Sustained, great moves, long, gear that appears just when you need it, and with a tricky heartbreaker crux at the top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Pegasus (5.7+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: The lone tooth that offered protection at the crux now sits shattered at the base of the route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: RG: Well, there's not a bolt "in the offwidth". It's left, around the corner, and on another route. That said, the fact that it can be clipped from this route is seen by many to be too close, and takes something away from the aesthetics and adventure of this great line. It's still there, so perhaps nobody cares enough about it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Super Slab : Dimpled Chad (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: There's some seriously flaky/crumbly rock on this one (even by J-Tree standards).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: My guidebooks show 4 bolts, but there are only three. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3. After unclipping the 3rd bolt, the second faces groundfall.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Cascade Pass : Cysty Ugler (WI3+ M4+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: I've always considered these to be the same line, but done in vastly different conditions.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Spike (WI4+ M4) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: OH yeah, that's Joe Szot in the red shirt.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Material Girl (M6)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Nice to see this getting attention. I think it's one of the great mixed lines of Chapel Pond. Being on the sunny side, it's one of the few options for those super cold days.

There are several additional options in this vicinity: To the right is a chimney called Twenty-nine Inch Waist; the name says it all. And to the left is Middle Earth (which is in the book).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Comment : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Haystack, outside Ausable Forks. Private land, unfortunately.


Location: NY : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: odile: This is Haystack, documented in Mellor's 1986 guidebook, page 69. Yup, private land.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Piece Out (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Pitch two is one of the finest pitches at Potter. Well, except for all the other super amazing pitches at Potter.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: P1 is definitely the money pitch. P2 is meh. P3 is pretty good.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Chalk Full O' Nuts (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: King and I (King Wall)
Slim Pickins (Spider's Web)
Pox (Potter)
Bon Chance (Good Luck)

There may be others, but I won't know until I compile the index. I don't think it's a big deal.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Chalk Full O' Nuts (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: Hey Todd, if you're going down that road, look at Crane. Reusing names seems to be a trend.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Jewels and Gems : Pearl necklace (5.8+ R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Good gear exists the entire way, so this is PG, not R.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Nestle Wall : Nescafe' (5.5 PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a surprisingly good route for the grade. Not sure about the "double cams", as I don't think there's enough places to put them. From the top, you can make a short rap to the anchors on Sheik of the Burning Sands (the winter route), then a 30m rap to the ground. Walking around the right end is quite long, slabby, and unpleasant.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Eagle Cliff : Eagle Crack (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: I'd be very surprised if Ken has been here. But I do like surprises...what's the story?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: katyg628: That's terrible about your sister's fall. I second the helmet advice at this cliff. (And, well, for pretty much any cliff.)

In my experience, the rock at Eagle Falls is friable and brittle. I've seen gear placements blow apart cracks that seemed solid. The original routes (and most of those documented in Adirondack Rock) were put in ground-up, have had no additional cleaning, and see very little traffic. Most need a session with a pry bar and scrub brush.

The newer routes (those docu... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Flashdance (5.10c PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: If you're doing the Overture linkup, this branches left at the aforementioned "dinner table ledge".


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: With 60mm ropes, that would be quite a lot of raps :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Good Luck Mountain : House of Cards (5.13a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Hi Frank...how's Red Rocks???

I knew about that one (and, yes, it's in the park). It's private land, unfortunately. We'll have to make the corrections in the 2nd edition.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Radioactive (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Locating the starts of the routes on the "5.10 Wall" is difficult, as the lower portion of the cliff is intimidating and nondescript.

First identify the "bulging ceiling" that horizontally breaks the cliff 40' up. Next, on the left side of the wall and below this ceiling, locate two steep, parallel cracks in white rock. This route climbs the right-hand of these cracks.

Double ropes (or a single rope with many long runners) help reduce rope drag.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Dacker Cracker (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: There's a bomber knee bar at the wide section for a no-hands rest.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : It's Only Entertainment (5.11c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: There is a reasonable blue TCU (#1) about half way along the traverse.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : The Matrix (5.8-)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Check the book, but probably rappel with 2 ropes. I don't recall any opportunity for other gear.


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