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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 514
Total Points: 1,305
Last Year: 370
Last 30 Days: 25
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Lawyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1094 | Routes 47 | Areas 22 | Photos 74 | Page Improvements | Comments 135 | Posts 59 | Stars 703 | Ratings 54
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Two Evil Deeds (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: What Nick said...excellent route, and possibly the best route on this wall.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Jungle Wall : Show Pony (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was an excellent route and deserves more recognition.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : The Matrix (5.8-)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Robert, I never said that the route could be rapped with a single 70m rope. In the comment above, I said (or meant to say) that if you are rappelling with 70m ropes [notice the plural], then you will have excess rope to deal with.

To be clear, the route is setup to be rappelled with double 60m ropes.

The guidebook recommends two 60m ropes for rappelling almost all routes at Rogers Rock.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: That anchor is used for rescues.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Freedom Flight (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: ...or some RoundUp?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Freedom Flight (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I think this is one of Poke-O's great lines. The difficult bits are quite well-protected, but there's definitely some spice in the easier sections.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Crimps Are For Pimps (5.11- R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: This route has a super dirty and uninspiring lower section, but it's worth it for the quality climbing on the clean face above. Very spicy: bring your A game. As of this writing, there's no bolt anchor, but rather some long slings on a tree that hang over the edge.

Oh yeah -- the only "handcrack" is at the very top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : Bowline With A Blowjob Fini... (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: This route is listed as a toprope, which is true but you have to lead a neighboring route first, or rappel in from above.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : J Rat's Back (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: The crux is a really big move, or more probably a dyno after the 4th bolt. If you move left, you can avoid this crux staying on big holds, perhaps reducing the grade a bit.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Willy Wonka (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: This climb is a good break from the other pump-fests on the wall. It's one technical move after another with good stances between. Excellent!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Hellbound Area : Hellbound for Glory (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: I thought the zigzag crack start added excellent variety to the classic face above. There's a ton of climbing between the first and second bolts; it does add an unfortunate swing for the second, though.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Lake Pleasant Quarry
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, I think a 30m rope would work OK. The routes are short!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Hi Chuck, you created a superb route here!

I think the existing protection placement is masterful. If you think it can be longer, then yay!!! If you do, something to consider is to keep the lower anchor for those with 60m ropes? (Also, it's a useful anchor for the mixed/ice route that starts up the Thunderhead corner.) Another consideration is that this is the first pitch of an amazing, three-pitch, full-length linkup (MtS to Cirrhosis to Under the Influence).

Glue-ins are nice for sure, but p... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : Mission to Mars (5.11c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: This route was once called "Shining Path", a name invented by locals due to lack of FA info. Since the first edition of Adirondack Rock, the FAers came forward. The correct name is Mission to Mars.

P1 is quite good. P2 is 5.11c (or so I thought) with some friable rock. There is a third aid pitch and a high anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Cedar River Crag : BLF (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: There's a direct 5-bolt start to this route, Pudding Snack (5.11c) that's really good.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Regarding the anchor: The original route went to the top. A convenience anchor appeared on the tree after the "good" climbing, and was used for many years until the tree died. A bolted anchor briefly appeared in place of the tree, and was removed. The gear anchor appeared more recently, and didn't make it into the guidebook. Sometimes these things are moving targets.

Did you really go to the top because the guidebook said to? (Btw, it actually doesn't say that.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Positive Latitude (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: P2 is one of the most amazing pitches anywhere. Super good dimple climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Region : Bear Den
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Hurricane Irene really changed the approach from a nice trail to a blowdown-infested bushwhack. It's recovering, but be ready to hunt and peck a bit to find the best way.

On a most positive note, the trail to the Polar Soldier Wall (the first part of the approach) is pretty casual now due to some new route activity there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Garden of Leadin' (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Instead of going right to the anchors, you can go left to another set of anchors on top of Pothead (5.12a). This allows you to work that route on toprope, if that's desired.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: One more thing -- you can link P1 and P2 together, but this makes for rope drag on the very delicate and balancy section of P2. Best to break the pitches, in my opinion.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: There's no anchor at the end of P1. I just clip the first bolt of P2 and use that, plus maybe a piece of gear in the giant block you sit on.

To descend from the top anchor, a 70m rope makes it to the P2 anchor. From here a 60m rope is all that is necessary to return to the ground.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome, the best of its kind in the park.

You need #0.5 and #1 Camalot for P1. After that, it's all fixed until the last pitch, which requires a #3 Camalot. The P4 belay requires #1 and #2 Camalots.

As of the beginning of Sep, 2014, the top anchor is missing. You'll need some long cord to re-establish this.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Tier Pressure (5.8+ R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This is considered by some to be the best route (in the grade, at least) at Sugarloaf, better than Quadrophenia and Hesitation. The first pitch is horribly overgrown (even though it's been cleaned many times in the past).

To more easily approach the upper pitches, start 25' left in a depression and climb horrible grunge up and right to a fixed anchor of the original route. This is the line of the original ascent. The upper climbing is totally worth it.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Steve, that sharp right turn goes to the road and is indeed a shortcut through private property that some locals use (with permission from the landowner).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Neanderthal Cave : Breaking Bad (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Gunkiemike: That's Dweezil Extension (5.8).


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