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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wright Peak
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really like this cliff. What it lacks in height, it makes up for in quantity -- lots of routes that are all pretty good quality, excellent rock, good protection, and all packed into a small, alpine area with a pretty summit.
Oh yeah, and they're not all 5.6...the routes range from 5.3 to 5.11b.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community.
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Location: International : Australia : Pierce's Pass : Bunny Buckets (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the route was just so-so until we got to the upper pitches. 80 meters of vertical jug hauling make it all worthwhile. Superior!
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Northern Group : A Taste of Honey (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a first pitch to this route that is also quite good.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?
While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!
I recommend contacting the rout... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best weather with no bugs: fall (late August through October). Wallface has BAD black flies, often worse than other cliffs for some reason.
Sometimes you can lose the bugs as you get higher. Other times they get worse as you climb higher. Pray for wind.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : My Generation (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On P3, there's a bomber 0.5 Camalot, then a bomber nut getting to the first bolt. Pretty well-protected, in my opinion.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think people are missing the descent. The Regular Route has been soloed car-to-car in nearly 10 minutes. Really.
From the top of Bob's Knob, you follow cairns to a narrow gully. The entrance to this gully appears unlikely from the top, but it's very easy scrambling once you're in it. There's a fixed rope part way down to use as a hand rail when its wet. From the bottom of this narrow gully, walk down to a fork in the trail. Take the (skiers) left fork and follow the trail downhill and left ac... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Good Luck Mountain : House of Cards (5.13a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zabba -- good point, but it does have a bolt, and I've seen people clip it. But yeah, some people don't, so this counts.
Wheelin' and Dealin' -- forgot about that. It's new.
There are also .13s on private land...could be some pure trad ones in there somewhere.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Eagle Cliff : Eagle Crack (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was successfully TRed in 1997 at .12a, and named Eagle Crack. Hence, the name and grade here need to be updated.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Good Luck Mountain : House of Cards (5.13a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, I think this is the only trad .13 in the park (on public land). The route on the Tsunami Wall is all-trad 5.14.
...or am I missing something?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Mckenzie Pond Boulders
By: Jim Lawyer When: Feb 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A note to those adding boulder problems at McKenzie Pond:
Many problem descriptions added in this section were taken word-for-word from the local guidebook. Obviously this is not allowed on Mountain Project. And, no, changing a single word in a sentence doesn't fly either.
Please refrain from plagiarizing guidebook descriptions.
Descriptions deemed to be plagiarized will be removed from the site.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Lions on the Beach (WI4-) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is "Rule of the Bone", right of Lions.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Lions on the Beach (WI4-) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is "Rule of the Bone", which is just right of "'Lions on the Beach".
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don Mellor (mellord@northwoodschool.com) is collecting information for the next edition of Blue Lines. More info here.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Snatch (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You find out info here here.
"A block fell from P1 of The Snatch [route 75, page 61] leaving a blank section and some dangerous choss. This has been cleaned up and, with the addition of a bolt, is now an excellent, safe pitch. The grade has not changed."
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Desperado (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: GK - I think you mean the second bolt, not the third. There are only two bolts on this route.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't this Shelving Rock?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bandito (5.10+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's PG because of the pro difficulties at the start after the bolt -- you'll fall below the belay. I'd be happy with "G", though.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Phase III (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: To me, off-width means "larger than fists". If you have small hands, then this qualifies. Otherwise, it's "off-hands", meaning cups or fists. Whatever -- it's splitting hairs. Suffice to say that it's an awkward size and protects well with 3" - 4" cams.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Tanager Face : Veracity (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a high-quality, safe lead.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Straight up is .11c. Alternatively, you can start on the neighboring route to the left and traverse in above the .11c part, making the route (in my opinion) .10d/.11a.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Long Play Wall : Long Play (5.10a PG13) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks nice!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt : Buckwheat (5.9- A0)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: JEVanHorn: Easy -- you pull on a couple bolts. No biggie.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : Pay As You Go (5.10 R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is info for that route here.
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