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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 554
Total Points: 1,114
Last Year: 270
Last 30 Days: 36
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Lawyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 878 | Routes 38 | Areas 20 | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 119 | Posts 44 | Stars 557 | Ratings 37
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Positive Latitude (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: P2 is one of the most amazing pitches anywhere. Super good dimple climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Region : Bear Den
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Hurricane Irene really changed the approach from a nice trail to a blowdown-infested bushwhack. It's recovering, but be ready to hunt and peck a bit to find the best way.

On a most positive note, the trail to the Polar Soldier Wall (the first part of the approach) is pretty casual now due to some new route activity there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Garden of Leadin' (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Instead of going right to the anchors, you can go left to another set of anchors on top of Pothead (5.12a). This allows you to work that route on toprope, if that's desired.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: One more thing -- you can link P1 and P2 together, but this makes for rope drag on the very delicate and balancy section of P2. Best to break the pitches, in my opinion.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: There's no anchor at the end of P1. I just clip the first bolt of P2 and use that, plus maybe a piece of gear in the giant block you sit on.

To descend from the top anchor, a 70m rope makes it to the P2 anchor. From here a 60m rope is all that is necessary to return to the ground.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome, the best of its kind in the park.

You need #0.5 and #1 Camalot for P1. After that, it's all fixed until the last pitch, which requires a #3 Camalot. The P4 belay requires #1 and #2 Camalots.

As of the beginning of Sep, 2014, the top anchor is missing. You'll need some long cord to re-establish this.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Tier Pressure (5.8+ R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This is considered by some to be the best route (in the grade, at least) at Sugarloaf, better than Quadrophenia and Hesitation. The first pitch is horribly overgrown (even though it's been cleaned many times in the past).

To more easily approach the upper pitches, start 25' left in a depression and climb horrible grunge up and right to a fixed anchor of the original route. This is the line of the original ascent. The upper climbing is totally worth it.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Steve, that sharp right turn goes to the road and is indeed a shortcut through private property that some locals use (with permission from the landowner).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Neanderthal Cave : Breaking Bad (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Gunkiemike: That's Dweezil Extension (5.8).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls : The Eagle Has Landed (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: This is an especially good route, one that I do every time I visit. The crux is moving right under the roof at the second bolt. The traverse left takes a #0.5 Camalot and is the second crux. Once on the arete, it doesn't ease up for a few move moves.

The fixed anchor is on the right side of the arete. The anchor to the left is for Stihl Water.

You can avoid the crux by starting as for LM, the large left-facing flake to the right. Climbed this way the grade is reduced to 5.10b or so.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Snowy Mt
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: The terrain between Water Streak and Redneck is packed pretty tight with routes. Left and right of those...maybe.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : White Knight (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: White Knight 5.10? Seriously?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: Hi Derek, I don't have much of an opinion where the initial grade comes from. I will say that even though guidebooks like ours try to get the grades right, there's always somebody that thinks they're wrong.

But regarding consensus grades on MP, I have a feeling that people only set the grade if their opinion differs from that which is posted. I don't think this is a true consensus since the only votes are the ones from people that disagree with the posted grade. Suppose the route is listed as 1... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Space Walk (5.11c/d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: I thought the pure finger crack variation was perhaps the best route of its grade in the Tahoe area.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Some aspects of your description match Moss Cliff. Actually, I can think of no other 3-pitch-high cliff with a river crossing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Yes, it's a bit dirty, and it's a little runout at the start. Even so, this an *incredible* pitch. Sustained, great moves, long, gear that appears just when you need it, and with a tricky heartbreaker crux at the top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Pegasus (5.7+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: The lone tooth that offered protection at the crux now sits shattered at the base of the route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: RG: Well, there's not a bolt "in the offwidth". It's left, around the corner, and on another route. That said, the fact that it can be clipped from this route is seen by many to be too close, and takes something away from the aesthetics and adventure of this great line. It's still there, so perhaps nobody cares enough about it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Super Slab : Dimpled Chad (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: There's some seriously flaky/crumbly rock on this one (even by J-Tree standards).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: My guidebooks show 4 bolts, but there are only three. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3. After unclipping the 3rd bolt, the second faces groundfall.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Cascade Pass : Cysty Ugler (WI3+ M4+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: I've always considered these to be the same line, but done in vastly different conditions.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Spike (WI4+ M4) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: OH yeah, that's Joe Szot in the red shirt.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Material Girl (M6)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Nice to see this getting attention. I think it's one of the great mixed lines of Chapel Pond. Being on the sunny side, it's one of the few options for those super cold days.

There are several additional options in this vicinity: To the right is a chimney called Twenty-nine Inch Waist; the name says it all. And to the left is Middle Earth (which is in the book).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Comment : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Haystack, outside Ausable Forks. Private land, unfortunately.


Location: NY : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: odile: This is Haystack, documented in Mellor's 1986 guidebook, page 69. Yup, private land.


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