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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Jim Lawyer


Point Rank: # 677
Total Points: 877
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 2
8 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (747) | Routes (31) | Areas (14) | Photos (52) | Comments (97) | Posts (35) | Stars (490) | Ratings (28)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Giant Mountain : Eagle Slide (4th)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: This drainage is a friggin' mess. The main drainage is full of tree debris from mini-slides along both sides of the river, making travel difficult.

The drainage leading to the Eagle Slide.
The drainage leading to the Eagle Slide.


Perhaps due to the significant land upheaval from Irene, the water is rust-colored with unusual brown algae and an unpleasant sulfurous odor.

At any rate, Mike's map is spot on. I followed the approach in the book to reach Roaring Brook, then followed the brook upstream over two debris sections. You'll come to a major fork@SEMICOL... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Bee Hold (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: M LaViolette Jr: Yes, bolted on lead. Also, some of this route was led before that on gear.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: The above comment was posted here:
www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=198270

This feature was hiked/scrambled in 1850 with no such aids. Unless it's some sort of official rescue thing, I hope it gets removed ASAP.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Silver Lake
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Oakcy: I've noticed this on other routes as well. Next time I go, I'll take a lightweight wrench and snug any that I find. (Perhaps others can do this too.) The fixed hardware is new and may take a while to seat properly.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Psalm 32 (5.12a/b A0)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: Correct. The third pitch is one of Poke-O's great unfinished problems! It would be very exciting to see this freed (hint hint).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 14, 2012

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Comments: We've been driving right into the old campground and parking anywhere. That way you can park in the shade.

The self-payment box was only relevant when the campground was in operation and climbers were using the facilities (toilet and water). With the campground closed, this is no longer an issue.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 14, 2012

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Comments: I consider the approach to be easy because you can see the cliff from nearly every point along the way. There's no bushwhacking or navigation difficulty, and it really does take 15 minutes. I saw somebody approach this cliff in crutches (!?), and saw somebody else crawl out with a broken ankle.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Diamonds Aren't Forever (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: Perhaps this is just me, but if you restrict yourself to the line of bolts, this feels like mid 5.11. If you climb to the right of the bolts (i.e., cheat by using some holds from Bee Hold, the neighboring route), it feels like the stated grade 5.10c.

I've never been able to climb this "direct" and have always cheated out right. Anyone else find this to be the case?


Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Bluffs : Thunder Crack (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: This route is right-leaning, not left.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Done


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: I posted a photo showing EXACTLY where the fixed lines are. You need to explore a little to find them. If you're rappelling, you're in the wrong place.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Like many of the backcountry slides, this one was changed considerably by Hurricane Irene on August 28, 2011. In addition to the devastating floods that hit the region, the landscape of the backcountry was significantly changed, including the west face of Mt. Colden. A new slide was created that extends from the top of the Trap Dike to the summit of Mt. Colden. The debris scoured the dike, stripping it clean of vegetation and dumping the resultant slurry into a debris cone that extends halfway a... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : McMartin
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: There is a mini-guide for McMartin here.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Regarding the above comment -- Gary's web site has a new address. Click here for the new site. As of 6-1-2012. there's no information on Shanty Cliff, though.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff : Climber's Yodel (5.7)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: According to the new route posting on rc.com, isn't the full name of this "Climber's Yodel #7"?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff : Gripe of Wrath (5.7)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: According to the new route posting on rc.com, this is called "Grips of Wrath", no?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wright Peak
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Regarding the FAs: The guidebook has details of 5 routes. The remaining routes were reported by Ken Nichols and his various partners.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wright Peak
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: I really like this cliff. What it lacks in height, it makes up for in quantity -- lots of routes that are all pretty good quality, excellent rock, good protection, and all packed into a small, alpine area with a pretty summit.

Oh yeah, and they're not all 5.6...the routes range from 5.3 to 5.11b.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community.


Location: International : Australia : Pierce's Pass : Bunny Buckets (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: I thought the route was just so-so until we got to the upper pitches. 80 meters of vertical jug hauling make it all worthwhile. Superior!


Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Northern Group : A Taste of Honey (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: There's a first pitch to this route that is also quite good.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?

While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!

I recommend contacting the rout... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: Best weather with no bugs: fall (late August through October). Wallface has BAD black flies, often worse than other cliffs for some reason.

Sometimes you can lose the bugs as you get higher. Other times they get worse as you climb higher. Pray for wind.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : My Generation (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: On P3, there's a bomber 0.5 Camalot, then a bomber nut getting to the first bolt. Pretty well-protected, in my opinion.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: I think people are missing the descent. The Regular Route has been soloed car-to-car in nearly 10 minutes. Really.

From the top of Bob's Knob, you follow cairns to a narrow gully. The entrance to this gully appears unlikely from the top, but it's very easy scrambling once you're in it. There's a fixed rope part way down to use as a hand rail when its wet. From the bottom of this narrow gully, walk down to a fork in the trail. Take the (skiers) left fork and follow the trail downhill and left ac... more >>


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