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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Jim Lawyer

Point Rank: # 533
Total Points: 1,224
Last Year: 337
Last 30 Days: 30
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 989 | Routes 42 | Areas 22 | Photos 70 | Page Improvements | Comments 124 | Posts 51 | Stars 638 | Ratings 42
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
C Chimney Cliff.

C Chimney Cliff.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : C Chimney Cliff

Jun 24, 2012

P1 of Tears of Gaia.

P1 of Tears of Gaia.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Tears of Gaia (5.10b)

Jun 24, 2012

Potter Mountain Cliff.

Potter Mountain Cliff.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Potter Mountain Cliff

Jun 22, 2012

Following P2 of Positive Latitude.

Following P2 of Positive Latitude.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Positive Latitude (5.10b)

Jun 21, 2012

Colin leading P1 of Positive Latitude.

Colin leading P1 of Positive Latitude.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Positive Latitude (5.10b)

Jun 21, 2012

Descent from Chapel Pond Slab.

Descent from Chapel Pond Slab.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Chapel Pond Slab

Jun 18, 2012

Blue Lines.

Blue Lines.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Blue Lines (2005)

Dec 8, 2011

Shiver Me Timbers is the crack through the roof wi...

Shiver Me Timbers is the crack through the roof with the tree. Lichen or Not climbs the face to the right past the up-side-down staircase to the fingercrack.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Lichen or Not (5.11c)

Jun 9, 2011

Climber near the top of the ice on Mate, Spawn, an...

Climber near the top of the ice on Mate, Spawn, and Die.

NY : Salmon River Falls (Ice) : ... : Mate, Spawn, and Die (WI5 M4)

Nov 24, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Crimps Are For Pimps (5.11- PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This route has a super dirty and uninspiring lower section, but it's worth it for the quality climbing on the clean face above. Very spicy: bring your A game. As of this writing, there's no bolt anchor, but rather some long slings on a tree that hang over the edge.

Oh yeah -- the only "handcrack" is at the very top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : Bowline With A Blowjob Fini... (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This route is listed as a toprope, which is true but you have to lead a neighboring route first, or rappel in from above.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : J Rat's Back (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: The crux is a really big move, or more probably a dyno after the 4th bolt. If you move left, you can avoid this crux staying on big holds, perhaps reducing the grade a bit.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Willy Wonka (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: This climb is a good break from the other pump-fests on the wall. It's one technical move after another with good stances between. Excellent!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Hellbound Area : Hellbound for Glory (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the zigzag crack start added excellent variety to the classic face above. There's a ton of climbing between the first and second bolts; it does add an unfortunate swing for the second, though.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Lake Pleasant Quarry
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, I think a 30m rope would work OK. The routes are short!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Chuck, you created a superb route here!

I think the existing protection placement is masterful. If you think it can be longer, then yay!!! If you do, something to consider is to keep the lower anchor for those with 60m ropes? (Also, it's a useful anchor for the mixed/ice route that starts up the Thunderhead corner.) Another consideration is that this is the first pitch of an amazing, three-pitch, full-length linkup (MtS to Cirrhosis to Under the Influence).

Glue-ins are nice for sure, but p... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : Mission to Mars (5.11c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route was once called "Shining Path", a name invented by locals due to lack of FA info. Since the first edition of Adirondack Rock, the FAers came forward. The correct name is Mission to Mars.

P1 is quite good. P2 is 5.11c (or so I thought) with some friable rock. There is a third aid pitch and a high anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Cedar River Crag : BLF (5.9)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: There's a direct 5-bolt start to this route, Pudding Snack (5.11c) that's really good.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding the anchor: The original route went to the top. A convenience anchor appeared on the tree after the "good" climbing, and was used for many years until the tree died. A bolted anchor briefly appeared in place of the tree, and was removed. The gear anchor appeared more recently, and didn't make it into the guidebook. Sometimes these things are moving targets.

Did you really go to the top because the guidebook said to? (Btw, it actually doesn't say that.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Positive Latitude (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: P2 is one of the most amazing pitches anywhere. Super good dimple climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Region : Bear Den
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hurricane Irene really changed the approach from a nice trail to a blowdown-infested bushwhack. It's recovering, but be ready to hunt and peck a bit to find the best way.

On a most positive note, the trail to the Polar Soldier Wall (the first part of the approach) is pretty casual now due to some new route activity there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Garden of Leadin' (5.10d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Instead of going right to the anchors, you can go left to another set of anchors on top of Pothead (5.12a). This allows you to work that route on toprope, if that's desired.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: One more thing -- you can link P1 and P2 together, but this makes for rope drag on the very delicate and balancy section of P2. Best to break the pitches, in my opinion.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Brazilian (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There's no anchor at the end of P1. I just clip the first bolt of P2 and use that, plus maybe a piece of gear in the giant block you sit on.

To descend from the top anchor, a 70m rope makes it to the P2 anchor. From here a 60m rope is all that is necessary to return to the ground.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is awesome, the best of its kind in the park.

You need #0.5 and #1 Camalot for P1. After that, it's all fixed until the last pitch, which requires a #3 Camalot. The P4 belay requires #1 and #2 Camalots.

As of the beginning of Sep, 2014, the top anchor is missing. You'll need some long cord to re-establish this.


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