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Member Since: Jul 7, 2004
Last Visit: Dec 9, 2013
Contact Jim Gloeckler


Point Rank: # 6,207
Total Points: 47
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Contributions


All (429) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (22) | Posts (400) | Stars (3) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Mo Verde

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (11)

Sport, 1 pitch, 125'

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Wiggins' Wall

Mar 17, 2010

The Captain

5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c (26)

Sport, 1 pitch, 75'

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : The Whale

Nov 7, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Barney

Barney

General Climbing : Best Dog Photo ? : Post

Nov 26, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Jul 28, 2011

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Comments: The 50yds from the camping area to the switchback is more like 150yds. No cairns marking the trailhead...just the switchback.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : 5th of July (5.9+)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Apr 3, 2010

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Comments: I thought this climb was fairly stout for 5.9. I'd rate it 5.9+ but I did not see any finger pocket at the crux. Great route that needs some attention given to the anchor. Right bolt needs tightening; might bring a wrench. Thanks to the first ascent folk for putting it up and for taking care of so many climbs!! As for any drilled pockets....I thought it was funny that someone would even think that they might be manufactured. For the most part they are huge! All in all a great route.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Westbay Wall : Nose in a Day (5.6)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: High first bolt, but easy climbing to get to it. Overall a good route, but I think it felt more like 5.5 than 5.6. Just fun! Anchors seemed fine to me.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Wiggins' Wall : Smear Campaign (5.7)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: I wish I would have read about the poison ivy before doing the route, but it wasn't in the book and I did not really see any when doing it today. We did what Ryan did, because it seemed easier and much more natural. Good route that was easier than its neighbor to the south (Mo Verde).


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : The Good Stuff (5.7)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Mar 16, 2010

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Comments: If you are not worried about ratings or the lack of difficulty, this climb is just fun!! Do it and enjoy yourself for the 5 min. it takes to reach the anchors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 12, 2009

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Comments: You just gotta love the Mescalito!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Don't Get Me Started (5.6)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: I agree with Corinne all the way on this one. Still needs a bit of cleanup and this one will be just fun. Thanks again to the F.A.'s!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Start Me Up (5.7)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: Excellent clean face! Thanks to the F.A. folks who bolted it! Pure 5.7 and 2 Stars!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Right Line (5.9)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: Another good climb! Yes a bit easier than Left Line IMO, but still a 5.8 and worth doing. Again 2 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Left Line (5.8)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: Thin holds between jugs. Crux down low before 3rd bolt. Solid 5.8+. Nice climb. Two stars.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : First Impressions (5.9)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: I think the crux is 5.9+ because of the pump factor. Moving thru the dihedral and resting where their is rests still provides a pump which has to be delt with at the crux. For shure a Sandbag 5.9 since it's much harder than "The Unsaid" and about as hard as "Morning Thunder". Just my opinion. Tough but nice climb. Two and a half stars.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Holiday Road (5.8)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: Start seems like 5.6 then a 5.7 move around the 50' level and then the finishing slab seems like 5.8+ to me. Thin holds and a few moves.
Slightly harder than the crux on Bitty Buttress or Upper Ruper for that matter; both being only 2 move cruxes. Just my opinion, but then again I'm getting older now. Three stars.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : Alan's Seam (5.10a)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Mar 23, 2009

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Comments: I thought this climb was harder than Resident Bush by far! Didn't even get to the 3rd bolt on TR! I admit to being weak and getting older, but this crack could easily be rated 5.10b/c. Good clips and anchor in great shape when this was posted.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : Jumping the Gun (5.9+)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: May 24, 2008

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Comments: It is easier to traverse in from the right side to get to the first bolt (5.8+). Overall, a nice climb that gets a bit interesting again at bolt 4.


Location: CO : Rockies Win!
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: they are gonna summit!!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Chunky Monkey (5.10a)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 9, 2006

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Comments: A nice climb, but now it has bad anchor bolts!!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Aborigine (5.7)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2006

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Comments: Nice climb! Two stars at least.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2006

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Comments: The start on this looks and seems to be in the 5.11 range? After getting to the 2nd bolt, it eases to about 5.8+. I looked for broken holds at the start but did not notice any areas that look like that was the case. We just stick-clipped the first bolt and managed OK.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Nov 7, 2006

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Comments: There is a bad anchor at the top of Chunky Monkey. We marked the bottom with an X and the words bad anchor. Hope this helps!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Jun 5, 2005

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Comments: Anyone know what the climbs are about 3 miles in right next to the river are called or rated? We did the two on the left, and both seemed about 5.7 or something like that. I think there are 2 more just to the right, but I saw no anchors on these. They look to be about 5.8, any info??


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Mar 20, 2005

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Comments: For what it is worth, I would advise Bob D. to believe Ken's account of his climbing. While he was my partner, he was not only always honest about his abilities but of his previous experiences; which were many I guarantee! It's a wonder Ken didn't document the very days (yes, plural) he spent on this route in the past, since like most climbers, he kept quite accurate diaries of his adventures. Overall, a very competent climber at the 5.10 level on traditional routes in the past, he now... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Good Virbrations (5.11b)
By: Jim Gloeckler When: Dec 13, 2004

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Comments: Bob D Do not let people tell you how to bolt your climbs! The results are what matters, and if you ask me the clips (on rap bolted routes) are more thought out than climbs that have been bolted on lead for the most part. Also, when I climbed a lot, I was always very thankful for those of you who took the time and effort to establish bolted climbs. God knows the South Platte has needed people like yourself to not only establish new climbs, but to make older ones safer by re-bolting them like "... more >>


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