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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Crack (5.0)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps until you have climbed the route and have a good idea of what the rating is, it should not be posted?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Hand/Fist Crack (5.0) : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Said Climber has denied such things. But who knows!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Things Fall Apart (5.13-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Send!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some words have been added to the area's description. Obviously some of the issue is ignorance. This brings up the constant issue of information. Do we then make available information on as many established lines as possible and possibly push the popularity (which is already on the rise). Or do we just rip out bolts and police as much as possible?
-Jesse Zacher
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Rough Canyon
By: Jesse Zacher When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please camouflage your bolts and anchors. I spoke with a BLM officer today and he said that if more routes go up that are visible they will try and ban new routing in the area.
Thanks,
Jesse Zacher
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall : ... : 5. 1000 Headed Dragon (5.11-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't unless you are feeling sporty.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers : Claret Cup Crack (5.7)
By: Jesse Zacher When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Sun Towers are on private property. I hope that you may have asked permission? The Western Colorado Climbers' Coalition deals a lot with land owners and access. Please be careful when and where you bolt if it is private. See the Coalition's Website: http://www.westernslopeclimbers.blogspot.com/
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having lead both pitch one and three I would warn you about what is to come. Nearly every pitch requires "dicey" or "fraid" free climbing with ledges all around especially if you plan on doing this route clean as it should be done. It is the nature of the fishers. Pitch three seemed to be the crux for me as the climbing was difficult above ledges. The more iron you bring the more you will want to hammer in place to make more solid. A single set of Sawed offs worked fine for us. Almost all the fi... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for submitting this Matt. I have been wondering what the grades were.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3) : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jan 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy Crap Matt this thing is kick ass. I guess I should expect this sort of detail from you.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ropes previously mentioned a few posts up were off the route and under a bush a few hundred feet away from the beginning of the route. My partner and I packed 280 Meters of old faded rope out. If this trash happens to be yours identify what was with the rope and maybe you can have it back. Leaving your trash behind for years at a time is unacceptable.
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Location: CO : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : The Sword of Damocles. (C2+)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second to last spike is out. I just stuck it lightly back in the hole and skipped it with a bit of top stepping/climbing. Rap anchors are marginal. How many more ascents before this thing plummets? I knocked probably 50 lbs of shit down and assume everyone who has done it has knocked a similar amount off. The neck below the cap rock will get thinner and thinner!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of big bros and huge cams.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Deep Voodoo (5.8 C2)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the webbing on the anchors is in need of repair. THe old Fixed Knife Blades are time bombs. Combine pitches 1-2. One rope rap from the last pitch to the third and then a rap barely gets you to the top of pitch one. Lots of nuts! Someone should finish the route and do a bolt ladder to the top. It is a little anticlimactic to see the top thirty feet from you but the route ends.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the last hard aid pitch you hook left not right. The Supertopo topo also shows it going right. Unless I was out of my mind and on a different route, you hook (one move) left.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rap from the top anchors to the "optional anchors" and then from there to the ground with two 60 meter ropes. Key pieces seemed to be Orange Alien and the new Aluminum DMM Offsets. I found the hardest section to be at the very end of the crux pitch going for the anchors. The first pitch variation is easy and takes some time off the clock.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Left Dihedral aka Dihedral ... (5.8)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch goes clean at C2. Bring some small nuts and cams and two large Cam Hooks. Watch out for the loose blocks up top. The anchors are are in good condition. A 70 meter rope with stretch makes you to the ground barely.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1
Shallow right facing corner to a ledgey crack system up and right to a stance and some slings around a horn.
pitch 2
Continue up bush cracks and up right below obvious roof.
Pitch 3
Hard 5.10 free climbing through roof or C1 continue up good 5.8 cracks to small alcove with a bolt on the right hand side.
Pitch 4
5.10 or C2- follow crack system as it gets wider to a nice ledge.
Pitch 5
5.9 climbing up good crack system with a bolted anchor.
Pitch 6
A3 traverse up and left through some sha... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Whirling Dervish (5.11a)
By: Jesse Zacher When: May 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tree that you rap off has fallen further than last time. Still seems ok but be careful....
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know what it is called, but we did it a few weeks ago and it's probably 5.11-. Great route on super good rock!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Zig Zag (5.10a)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA of this was Jim Beyer
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : South Face Direct (5.9 A4)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely longer than 400 feet....
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : South Face Direct (5.9 A4)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike Zeek and I did this over April 18th and the 19th. You would have to be pretty fast and start early and end late to do it in a day as most of the pitches are difficult. We did it all clean and it probably is C3ish. Aside from the mudband pitch there is decent rock, great exposure, and fun climbin. Tricams seem to be the essential piece. We had the new smaller two sizes and they worked like a charm. Two large hooks make the crux pitch easier. I Wonder how many more ascents before the last pi... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Grand View Spire : Relics (5.10 C2)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Mar 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cam hooks, medium to small Met. Brass nuts, small cams, one number four and two of everything else. Didn't need the HB offsets or Alien offsets. If you rap into the saddle between the tower and wall, do not take the chimney, instead climb down a small slab and bushwhack around the tower. One double rope rap from the top (bolts should be moved to the lip of tower) gets you to the saddle.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Lunar Ecstasy (5.10 C2+)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Mar 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last bolt/pin on the Jarrett finish is gone. It is possible if you are taller to top step and get a .5 in a horizontal crack. No need for ball nuts. A Talon hook helped a lot on the crux section of pitch 5 off of farewell ledge.
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