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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Cottonwood Creek (Sherman t... : Open Casket / Closed Casket (WI5- M4-)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb guys but it ain't OC/CC - wrong side of the valley!
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Wages of Sin (5.10)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or just bring a few cams....
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Little Bear-Blanca Traverse (5.0)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are reasonably fit and a mediocre climber or better, I'd plan on 2 hours to summit LB, 2 hours for the traverse and that leaves you the rest of the day since you probably started up LB at 5 AM to avoid the crowds (I counted 8 on LB's summit at 7:45 in mid August on a Saturday)
I'd recommend at least filling the rest of your morning by hitting Ellingwood and descending its SW ridge (fun 3rd class) for an enjoyable loop. Back at the Como area by noon and plenty of time to act like a lazy ... more >>
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Location: Jaaron Mankins : Utah : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha! Good thing the Ancient Puebloan DEA didn't see this.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Wolf Creek Pass- West Side : Treasure Falls (WI4-5)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Treasure is melted out up top - :( We were below the rain/snow line and it will need quite a few cold days to get back in shape.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Wolf Creek Pass- West Side : Treasure Falls (WI4-5)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Treasure is in and as easy as I've seen it in the last 5 years. The bottom 1/2 is low angle and the crux is shorter than usual and has good stances although still steep. Probably solid WI4. The top is pretty thin, but if you stay on climber's right for the last bit you will be fine. We climbed both the left and right sides and the right was definitely easier. The trail is hard packed and you don't need snowshoes.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Treasure Falls is in as is Alpha Male and Sheep's Clothing. The Chain Station (first tier only) has a few of the mainstays in (Honeymoon, Fatcicle, Chimney). Not much else in the area has formed up but as all the recent snow melts and if temps cool down during the day more should form up soon.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Big Meadows : Lower Tier : ... : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Dec 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess the lack of gear deserves an explanation. I had gotten to the top of the ice and found the start of the traverse but it had no gear. I got a good dry tool placement, clipped in and hauled up the hand drill. By the time I was done with that silliness, my legs were completely numb from cold and lack of blood (no feet for the drilling, just hanging from that one tool). I clipped in to the bolt and lowered off. Jack went up and finished it from there.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Alamosa Canyon : Boulder City
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ambience provided by busted beer bottles and spent shotgun casings really adds to the area.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Chain Station : Columbine Falls (WI3 M4)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the few moderate routes in the area since most low angle ice is buried under many feet of snow (it IS Wolf Creek Pass after all). A really fun outing at this grade.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : T & T (5.9)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is about 1/2 way between Skyline and Worrells. Look for the first bolt very high up with a large tree close to the base. You can either climb straight up to the bolt with no decent gear on thin but solid climbing or traverse in from the ledge system just off the ground on Skyline. Eiter way you run it out a bit. Great climbing, a long pitch if you go all the way to Broadway in one lead, but the clips are a bit of a stretch for short folks.
The intermediate belay was put it to a... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Donkey Show (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm disgusted and repulsed and... and I can't look away!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Wolf Creek Pass- West Side
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you have never climbed on this side of the pass, here are a few things to consider which will hopefully help you get maximum value from your experience.
First, almost all these climbs are awesome, classic lines and will be fun to climb. Most of these climbs are isolated and have an approach that, while not long, will eat up time, so plan on not getting in a large volume of climbing in any one day. These climbs are almost exclusively WI4 or WI5 since the large volume of snow completely cove... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Prune (5.7+)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Prune is a 4 pitch route that can be done in two long pitches with a 60m rope. It goes all the way to the top of Back To The Front.
P1: 5.6 Rish. 60 feet. From the ground climb towards tree on ledge above getting gear where you can, not necessarily everywhere.
P2: 5.7. 60 feet. Best pitch of the route. Behind the belay, climb a steeper pitch up cracks with the crux of the route coming in the last 15 feet before Old Man's Traverse Ledge and the belay. A nu... more >>
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Doctor Doolittle (5.11-)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun little route with unusual movements for this area.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Push-Me-Pull-You (5.10a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it a tad stiff for 10a but then its all relative. Short- yes, fun- yes. Classic??? Once again, I guess it's all relative. I sure wouldn't hike up here to do it, but if you are here and you climb 10s it is not bad.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Just Another Pretty Face (5.10c)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree w/Susan. Being a chicken, I actually got in a nut enroute to the first bolt. It really only helps with like 2 moves but if you aren't a slab guru it is reassuring to have! A great route.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Henson Creek Road : Bowel Movements (proposed) (WI5)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We saw no signs of previous ascents when we climbed this thing, and it is pretty tough to catch from the road. However, it is so close to the road I would not be surprised if had previously been climbed. If you know anything, let me know and I'll happily change the info. It was a good pitch and just seemed to deserve a name.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Heaven Can Wait (5.10)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the thin seam between Jewel of the Mild and Children of a Lesser Grade and can be TRed from Children's anchors which is what most people do. Personally, I thought the start was way harder than 10b. Maybe something important broke off?
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Unknown (5.6 ramp) (5.6)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Parties seem to like TRing this but even with directionals, an inexperienced follower could be set up for a bad pendulum in a few places.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Yah-Ta-Hei (5.10c)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: D'Antonio's guide calls this the best route of its grade in the canyon. Definitely worth doing.
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Location: CO : Durango : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You need to find the out of print Southwest Rock by David Kozak (spelling?) probably through Chessler. It has 3 routes if I remember correctly. There are a few "alpine" descriptions in an old AAJ (easy to find in the new AAJ searchable database) and a few old climbing mags.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Copasetic (5.11b)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely one of the best 11s in the area and not a single crimpy, slab move!
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Casa De Madera isn't really a climbing shop anymore. Parking at the entrance is not a problem but is fairly limited.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Bucket Slave (5.10b)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Following the crack all the way to the top of the wall is a fun climb and really the "logical line" but while Im sure it was climbed long ago, I see no name for it anywhere. Possibly "Crack Slave"? Its a fun 5.9 requiring a range of gear and a variety of techniques. Probably best to set up a gear anchor and have the last climber move the anchor to Rocketman and lower from there.
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