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Member Since: May 18, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 5, 2015
Contact Jesse Morehouse

Point Rank: # 368
Total Points: 1,681
Last Year: 270
Last 30 Days: 213
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jesse Morehouse been climbing?










Contributions


All 915 | Routes 99 | Areas 16 | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 65 | Stars 323 | Ratings 189
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Big Meadows : Long Cliff
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Once again, I have misplaced the old hand written guide I had. I got tired of using lame names, so made some up. If you know better, let me know!!!

There are a few other lines in here that I have heard of (trad adventures) or guessed at by the random bolt or pin, but the juice didn't look worth the squeeze, so I never did it. These lines should give you a good feel for the place though.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Big Meadows : Little Black Cliff
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: There are 4th class/easy 5th class lines extending up the walls above this cliff that see the occasional traffic, and there are a few undocumented climbs that we have never bothered to try mixed in here as well as some random bolts for old mixed routes that rarely come in. I used to have a hand drawn guide to the place, but have lost it over the years. Please feel free to correct names if you know them!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Big Meadows : Little Black Cliff : Headwaters of Denial (5.9)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: I'm reporting the grade as claimed by the first ascentionist. Many folks feel this route and the one to the right are the same grade ;)


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: The conditions on easy to reach ice are horrible. Chain station is vertical trash, Treasure is melted out in the middle, but it might be climbable if scary. The Alpha Male group is in nice and fat, as is Romulus.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jan 1, 2015

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Comments: Treasure is in and looks really steep. The exit is buried in snow, so be prepared for some serious snow wallowing to escape to the typical anchor trees. When I've climbed it in similar conditions, getting sloughed off the exit was a concern!

The good news is that the spineless people who occasionally TR this climb will have a lot of difficulty reaching the top until the snow consolidates.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Ice is starting to come in. I have not been to the Chain Station but assume it's climbable. Treasure is almost formed. The current cold temps should have other things formed up soon too.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Wolf Creek Pass- West Side
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: I've started posting conditions for the entire pass as best as I know them on the Wolf Creek Pass overview page instead of spending the time putting things on individual pages.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Chain Station
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: I've started posting conditions for the entire pass as best as I know them on the Wolf Creek Pass overview page instead of spending the time putting things on individual pages.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: Things have not yet formed up much. Treasure is coming in but not there yet. I have not been over to the Chain Station but guess there is something to climb over there but not a lot. The climbs listed in my previous post remain the best options.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: The lower elevations remain unseasonably warm, and the recent snow has been rain and wet snow down low, degrading the ice that was forming on Treasure. I'd guess the same thing is happening to the Chain Station but have not been over to investigate.

There is just not a lot of ice around at the moment. Alpha Male/Sheeps is still the best bet. Romulus looks pretty good too.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Wolf Creek Pass- West Side : Tasty Freeze (WI4-) : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Yup.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Pickings are thin on Wolf Creek Pass right now. Alpha Male/Sheep's Clothing appear to be in as well as some of the ice surrounding Alpha Male. Sheep's is presented as a low angle left option usually covered with snow, but current conditions make this an option at the moment as well as a thin looking, main line to the right.

Romulus appears to be in now, but the last top out move may be thin. Remus could be climbed by skirting the initial pillar via ledges to climber's right. The rest looks good... more >>


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Almost Certain (AC) (5.11+)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: This is a super fun finger crack. Truth in advertising here- I've only TR'ed it, so I'm not sure how accurate the grade is, and I'm not certain I'd ever be able to lead it to know for sure. Take the rating as a "suggestion"! Regardless, have fun on it!

You can access the top anchor to hang a TR on this route and the arete by climbing the Unknown Acute Dihedral and exiting right around the arete as described on that climb.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Unknown 5.9 (5.9)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: A super fun route. The first pitch is not short and very memorable, but the main pitch is fantastic with 2 roofs and great climbing, mostly hands to tight hands but with some wide stuff too plus protection options in thinner cracks nearby. I brought singles from black Alien to old #4 plus nuts and 2 #1s, 4 #2s, and 2 #3s. On the main pitch, I used almost all of it and even with the belay higher at the stance ~20ft further up the route from the big belay ledge, but I'm a ... more >>


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Kevin, it takes a time or two to dial the approach, and then it's pretty easy. It can be one of those "magic" trails that only works well in one direction, usually outbound! Where the cairns run out, look for some tree blazes. As to that elevation, that was not done by me, but if you bring a GPS (lame, I know...), it should be a good bit easier.

The bolts you saw are now all in and the FA complete (on the last try of the year- super big props to Andrew McClure!). He says its awesome. Too hard f... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Lutz, glad you like it. It is a little lamer than that. I used the route finder search to return all 10s in the 4-5 star range. Then I selected all the routes and copied and pasted them into Excel. If memory serves me correctly I cleaned up the data and either used a pivot table or some countif functions to get the counts by crag. Then converted the graph to a jpg and uploaded it. Sounds about like it was. Something to kill time with on a lame day! I think I get geek points even if it was not ne... more >>


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: After climbing here since the early 2000s, I have to say this area has seen some great development in the past few years. Some very quality routes have been put in with great hardware, and the poison ivy is no longer the issue it once was. Pretty much all routes are accessible to both lead and top rope climbers. The handful of developers who have done this deserve props for sure!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Walk on the Wide Side (5.10a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Well, just for laughs, here's a different experience. I tried to climb this over the weekend but a couple speaking what I think was French was on it, the dude valiantly grunting and thrashing his way upwards in shorts and a tee shirt. I was low on time so moved on. What are the odds? I mean from what is posted above Im probably the unluckiest climber ever!


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Mild Hops (5.10)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Totally agree. This is a great 10 on all accounts.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : F***in' Greenies (5.10b)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: A reall good route overall with increasingly strenuous climbing. Fairly well bolted except maybe that last one. There are some disconcertingly hollow flakes on it though. Pull down not out! All that being said, it's probably one of the better routes in the area at the 5.10 grade.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Black Beauty (5.8+)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I was setting it up for my kids and had a hold break. First time I've ever whipped on an 8. I left plenty of other suspect holds for others! Don't clean this on rap - the rope pull can be tiring due to anchor placement.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Hopstacle Course (5.10)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: I'm kind of surprised to see that everyone, but me thinks this is 5.10. It makes me feel like a pathetic climber, but hey, that's cool. Just want to put that alternate opinion out there for folks. Great route.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Uncertainty (5.10-)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: We placed the rap station so it would be possible to check out the wide, overhanging crack continuing up the face. I'm probably way too pathetic to probably even try (and too poor to have enough wide gear!). Have a go! I double dog dare you....


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Clean Green Dream (5.9)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: This was a really fun route. As I smeared that face leading past the last bolt I sure felt off route- no more bolts, no obvious pro but it ended up protecting surprisingly well. Just follow the features and it will all work out fine!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Independence Gully : Double Your Pleasure (5.11a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: I was pretty unimpressed by this route. Blowing the second clip would mean serious ground fall potential and its no gimme if you are climbing at your limit. Also, there are a few disconcertingly hollow flakes on the steep part that are mandatory holds and as you pull over the lip to the easier terrain, most of the big holds are hollow. In its favor it is a nice change from slab. Im not sure Id bother doing it more than once though.


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