Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Treasure is in and, at least at the moment, pretty steep due to the lack of water this fall. Tasty Freeze is in too as is the lower chain station.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Pinhead (5.10b)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed this route- it had good feet! It climbed a lot like a non-desert route which was a fun change of pace. The difficulty seemed to stay pretty moderate with one or two more strenuous moves at the top.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : The Shipyard : Electronic Battleship (5.10)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wide middle was rattle fists but not quite offwidth for me. A good way to get worn out prior to the thin finish! Worth doing for sure. I had 2 #3.5 camalots and was thankful for them.
|
Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Right to the Left (A Thoug... (5.10c)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Nov 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seth, looks like I got the wrong story. Tom, thanks for the correct other name. Note edits above and thanks for the clarification guys!
|
Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Ms. Cool (5.9)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think "decent" is an understatement - a great route for the grade. Weird that you don't see more folks on it.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Black Sun (5.10b)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For what its worth, here is the perspective of an average 5.10 climber (a caveat that I think is important for routes like this- hint: look at the grades the folks calling this "easy" climb...).
P2 (after leaving KI) was a fun and slightly strenuous 5.8 that I liked better than its next door neighbor equivalent on KI. You need to build an anchor in the cracks above the ledge. Resist the urge to use your #2 camalots!
P3 (crux) was a great pitch and very physical. The "5.10 fists" crac... more >>
|
Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Brother Toad (5.10d)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun climb overall and felt solid for the grade in the hard sections especially the part off the big ledge after b2. Well bolted but has a bit of a grid bolted feel due to the proximity of the routes/variations to the left leaving/rejoining. The start is kinda not all that, the rest of the route is really good until you pull up on to the ledge with a suitcase sized loose block you have to avoid as you surmount the ledge. The finish shared with the other routes to its left is OK but the route... more >>
|
Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : East Face aka Clairabell Mi... : Clairabell (5.11a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I counted 10 bolts with the extra one being the second one on the route, most of the way through the 4th class between b1 and now b3. My wife is 5 ft and I'm 6 ft 4 in, and there was a significant difference in our experiences at the, for her, crux going over the small initial roof after b4. I found it probably 10d at most, maybe even pumpy 10c while she found it honest at the grade. Definitely height-dependent.
|
Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : East Face aka Clairabell Mi... : Rock Juice (5.11+)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is now no longer "just right of Master Blaster". There is a 10b/c in between that is fun.
|
Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : One Thin Line (5.11a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lee, thanks for helping me regain some measure of self esteem! This climb made me feel like I must suck worse than usual with all the hanging and whimpering I did on the first 2 bolts. 11a....
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This rap station has some great lightning scars on the middle bolt and on the 2 huge rap rings. A sobering reminder that you don't want to be here in a thunder storm!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite part of the CO Spgs climbing experience is the reticent nature of the long time locals. I got one to remain nameless local to scan in a few hand drawn topos of some obscure multi-pitch areas, all of which had been copied so many times they are almost illegible. I had to almost promise my first born son and internet pinky promise to never post said topos on the web to get that info. Even published stuff for off-the beaten path routes is reminiscent of alpine climbing ("ascend the o... more >>
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Unknown 10+ (5.10+)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A phenomenal climb - loads of fun from bottom to top. The start is just down/left of the big fir tree growing all by itself about 1/2 way up the left side of the V. Look for a 1 bolt anchor at 60 feet. The final anchor, a solid fairly modern double bolt rap station is at 60m like Manky says but hard to see from the ground. After the phenomenal hand crack turns into an offwidth and then back into a hand crack, step left on the spacious but slightly sloping ledge about 6-8 feet to the next cra... more >>
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ETHICS??!!??
On a different topic, I have talked to the likes of Travis Spitzer and others who have climbed back in here since possibly the '70s. It was referred to fondly as a real adventurous place to climb. I have never found or heard of anyone making a topo, so out of respect for the FA'ers intent as well as out of a bit of pragmatism, I find it difficult to start listing climbs (uh, Unknown 2 is left of Unknown 1 etc, etc...).
BETA/POTENTIAL
I have heard second hand that some of the line... more >>
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After a few hikes in here, I feel these GPS coords plot the best 2 approaches. Each takes just under an hour and involves very little bush whacking, mainly strolling through meadows.
1. Common in & out
-Follow V Rock trail up hill for about 30 minutes until you reach 0340435 4111329.
-Break off the trail to your right and you will find yourself in a long narrow meadow. Follow the game trail to the back where it disappears into trees at 0340368 4111078.
-Follow the trail into trees and throug... more >>
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Photo
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 9 and 10 Manky listed are just left and down of the big fir in this shot. The 9 is slightly left and down hill of the 10.
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Blanco Basin Crags : Poo Crack (5.10b)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It gets its name honestly
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Blanco Basin Crags : The Good Boyfriend (5.6)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux seems to be the top out but the bolt is at thigh height. A fun, featured route.
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Blanco Basin Crags : Call of the Mountain Lion (5.12a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route up to the roof past three black hangars is a great, albeit short 11a with some of the best rock on the wall. I found the roof to be crumbly, sharp and not a lot of fun so I threw in the towel on that. Ray gave me the thumbs up to add a lower topanchor below the chossy roof so it might end up getting a shorter finish variation keeping it all on good stone.
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Blanco Basin Crags : Tex-asses Right (5.12a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, so it is pretty contrived for the first 3 bolts since its right next to a corner and you could stem a lot. However, if you stick to the face it is a really really good route. I'm guessing the crux start is 11d or 12a - height dependent. From the second bolt on its probably 10b ish. The start is thin and sequential while the rest is steep and usually juggy. One of the better routes at the crag, even if it is a little contrived!
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Blanco Basin Crags : Druken Bolting (5.10a)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun, varied route with a few bouldery cruxes and great rests between them. I'd recommend wearing pants as there is an offwidth.
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Drilla From Manilla (5.7)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A long fun climb with a short bit of 5.7 on the obvious head wall at 3/4 height. Unfortunately, the ridiculously wide spacing between bolts make this a 5.7 bolted for a 5.9 leader. If any of the hard routes were bolted like this there would be howls of protest.
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : The Pillars : Sideshow Ho (5.8)
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last time we were up there, we knocked off the last of the loose stuff in the form of a TV-sized block (that's old school nomenclature not a flat screen). According to the next party to climb it, they found that section unprotected and dicey. I'll need to get back up there and maybe add a bolt or something. The difficulty may have increased.
|
Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : The Pillars
By: Jesse Morehouse When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both the pillars and cirque of rock behind them have more route potential. I'm not sure how extensive it is and it looks like lines would need at least some bolts due to the nature of the rock.
|
Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: Jesse Morehouse When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The BLM has totally re-done most of the pay camping sites this season. All the walk in sites are now drive in and look to be mostly pretty well done. There are more pit toilets and trash cans plus the canyon trailhead entry got a facelift and the petroglyphs just left of the trailhead are on display. No maps/signs in the kiosks yet. The site fee for single site is now $11 and the group rate is $20 with 3 group sites now. The camp site just shy of the day parking is now overflow parking and r... more >>
|
RSS Feed
