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Member Since: Mar 15, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Jesse Huey


Point Rank: # 4,631
Total Points: 86
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jesse Huey been climbing?










Contributions


All 39 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 1 | Stars 6 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Great Arch

5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

North America : Canada : ... : The Apron

Aug 9, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Tommy Caldwell sends the full pitch his second try.

Tommy Caldwell sends the full pitch his second try.

CO : Boulder : ... : Red Dihedral (5.12d R)

Jan 31, 2013

A bit steep.

A bit steep.

CO : Boulder : ... : Red Dihedral (5.12d R)

Jan 31, 2013

A bit steep;

A bit steep;

CO : Boulder : ... : Red Dihedral (5.12d R)

Jan 31, 2013

second to last pitch <br />

second to last pitch

North America : Canada : ... : Comment

Aug 21, 2012

The corner you came for!

The corner you came for!

North America : Canada : ... : Comment

Sep 9, 2011

pitch one on the calling being climbed Russ Clune.

pitch one on the calling being climbed Russ Clune.

North America : Canada : ... : Comment

Sep 9, 2011

The 11a traverse on the AK Highway.

The 11a traverse on the AK Highway.

North America : Canada : ... : Comment

Sep 9, 2011

Starting the Alaska Highway Crux <br />

Starting the Alaska Highway Crux

North America : Canada : ... : Comment

Sep 9, 2011

South America : Argentina : ... : Last Gringos Standing (5.10+)

Apr 20, 2010

South America : Argentina : ... : Last Gringos Standing (5.10+)

Apr 20, 2010

Getting on the ridge

Getting on the ridge

South America : Argentina : ... : Last Gringos Standing (5.10+)

Apr 20, 2010

Topo for LGS

Topo for LGS

South America : Argentina : ... : Last Gringos Standing (5.10+)

Apr 20, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Red Dihedral (5.12d R)
By: Jesse Huey When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: As far as striking lines go on the Front Range, this is one of the most dramatic. The climb is almost exactly 40 meters and has 5 cruxes that are all 5.12 when done in one long pitch. Linking the two pitches is really the only way in my opinion, since the "stance" at the anchor is yes a no hands but in a stem that is on you from the start. Having climbed a lot of climbs similar to this style and grade, it is more difficult than you would expect.

Regarding the second pitch, I am certain that a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Jesse Huey When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: My favorite Eldo Link Up:

First pitch of the Wisdom, 10d, to Scary Canary crux, 12b, to linking Le Toit, 10b - Plastic Jesus, 11-, up the ramp to the Mellow Fellow linking the 5.11d with the 11c, finish with the 5.12 boulder problem finish!

Not to be missed!

Sidebar: I took Honnold up here: he linked the entire Mellow Fellow into the Direct in a single 80 meter pitch, and he didn't seem to break a sweat, seriously amazing to watch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.11d PG13)
By: Jesse Huey When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Joseph... the current situation: new bolts next to old bolts. All still in the wall as of Sept. 14 2012.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : UnBearable (5.12-)
By: Jesse Huey When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: This climb is worth doing! The 11c and 12- pitches are two very amazing pitches and NOBODY ever climbs on this wall. It will leave you wanting more, and will probably get you on the harder routes to the right. Do it!



Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : UnBearable (5.12-)
By: Jesse Huey When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments:
second to last pitch <br />
second to last pitch



Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.11d PG13)
By: Jesse Huey When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: Thank you for the retro bolting. It would be nice to have the old bolts removed. Currently there are 2 bolts side by side.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Fatman and Robin (M9)
By: Jesse Huey When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Probably one of the best routes in the amphitheater because it has ICE!!!!

The last bolt is "special."

DO IT!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Amphibian (WI5+ M9)
By: Jesse Huey When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: I remembered from years past a few fixed TCUs in the roof off of pitch one. After climbing the first pitch, I saw that the fixed gear was gone and that there was a bolt? Kinda stoked to finally tried it thinking it had been retro'd. Going for it, I got slightly terrified to find that nothing changed, but the fixed gear had just ripped out that normally protects the first moves to the bolt...??? I ended up sketching my way to the top and brought home a completely fused yellow TCU that I punch... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Calling (5.12-)
By: Jesse Huey When: Sep 9, 2011

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Comments: This route deserves all the stars in my opinion. A comparable route to Astroman. Some pitches link nicely. Pitches 3&4 with a 70 meter rope. If you are feeling spry, I suggest linking pitches on the calling. The 11+ sport pitch into the 11+ corner with a 60 meter rope (This works well if your partner does not want to climb the calling) because you can rap from here with one rope. Linking pitches 2 (long corner & 3 bombbay chimney) are the most logical with a 60 meter rope but you will need ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : University Wall (5.12-)
By: Jesse Huey When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: The PERFECT rack for the UWall, as I get asked quite often on this one:

Good set of Nuts with Brass Nuts to the Green HB
1 Purple TCU or equivelent
3 Green Aliens or equivelent
2 Yellow Aliens or Equivelent
1 Grey alien or Equivelent
2 Purple Camalots
1 Green Camalot
1 #3 Camalot

That is it, NO RED OR GOLDS and that is not a sandbag!

13 sling/draws are perfect and necessary for pitch 6.

Enjoy....


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Jesse Huey When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: Thought this route was super fun, maybe a bit sandy, but well worth the adventure. The harder pitches are super fun, primo crack a bit sandy but not too bad. The upper crux has a hard move for people who are not 6'5" or who cant jam green aliens... My rack beta for the free version: Double set .5 camalot to 1 camalot, 1 gold 1 blue. Triple set from purple tcu to yellow tcu, a set of medium stoppers -no brass necessary, optional 4 camalot - 5.9 below toquerville tower we used it but wished we... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Evolution Revolution (5.12b/c)
By: Jesse Huey When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126.

Jesse


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