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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Standard Route (5.6)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bobby, The Standard Route is a fine line. It has a lot of variety for a route in this part of the planet. And it may not be very difficult (start with Chiboni if you need more adrenaline), but it's in an outstanding location and offers nicely fractured cracks, face, slab, chicken-head hiking. It's one of the most "Sierra-Like" routes we've got down here... Those loose blocks are well-consolidated and easy to avoid if you need to. That's just the nature of climbing a big route (ok, it's not all ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Hard Day at The Orifice (5.12b)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hundal, you're getting too big fer yer britches...
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Location: AZ : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : The Elephant's Trunk (5.7)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The station for the second rap is somewhat difficult to find. Look right and don't go too far down before starting to look for it...
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Standard Route (5.7)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI: For those who thought they were possibly off-route - The pitons mentioned in the description were STOLEN...
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Green Slabs : Yurt Monkey (5.8+)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't call it sandbagged exactly. Tim Lee told me that there was a key hold on the start that broke off some time in the past. Probably makes the start a somewhat awkward .9. It is rather sustained too IMNSHO... Caveat: If you're leading don't forget that there's a large, rather sold block below and behind you when you get up 20 or so feet. Note also that STL II has this route and "Here and Gone" transposed on the topo.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Green Slabs : Rock Candy (5.6)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heartily second JR's emotion...
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Green Slabs : Josh and Dave's Route (5.7)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: STL II gives this a .8, but seems easier to me... There's a mental crux at the top if you don't cop out and skirt around to the left. I rarely see anyone on this one. Could be because of the challenge in getting down. You could thread the anchors on Yurt Monkey, but it's a PITA and there are often people climbing it. I left some slings and rap rings up there in a much easier position to rap from a couple of times in the past, but people have stolen them (yes, stolen A**H***...!)
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two and a half stars? YMBFKM. This is one of the best, most varied routes in Cochise. The finish is spectacular. Not as hard as it looks, but some of the best exposure in The Stronghold.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Matterhorn : Standard Route (5.4) : Photo
By: Jerry Cagle When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hexes...! And an Oval...! Without a wiregate...! Sweet...!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Photo
By: Jerry Cagle When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not her best side...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : House Calls (5.7)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a link to a couple of photos I took on the route. I tried uploading them to MP, but "no go" (yes, they were small enough...).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10574996@N07/sets/7215760628287>>>>>
I solicited info on this line via the SuperTopo forums, and this was the best info I got:
Re: Route Info Sought for Unknown Route on Pywiack Dome Jul 19, 2008, 11:31pm PT
Author:Greg Barnes
There's a bunch of old routes in that area, some of which may even have gone where Zee Tree goes but wi... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome
By: Jerry Cagle When: Jul 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone have info on the route R of Zee Tree about 100' or so? It sports an old belay station at the top of P1 with 1/4" bolts, one homemade and one SMC hanger. A third bolt is present about 4 feet to the left in a chossy alcove...
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Whale Dome
By: Jerry Cagle When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who left the snarl of ropes on the rap station?
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Cochise Dome (WML Dome) : What's My Line? (5.6 A0 R)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Nov 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 11/18/2007 the anchor for the "lower out"/pendulum,
and the belay station at the top of P1 were upgraded
using Fixe Trad Anchors. The 1/4"er with SMC hanger at the "lower out" was pulled and a Fixe Trad Anchor was installed incorporating the existing 3/8" bolt. The old Leeper w/ 1/4" bolt at the station at the top of P1 was pulled and a Fixe Trad Anchor was installed also incorporating the existing 3/8" bolt. One bolt was left in situ to the right of the anchor for "historic purposes" and as ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Bug Spring Wall
By: Jerry Cagle When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, we finally made a trip up here last weekend. The area is a little farther up the drainage than the description suggests. The "tallest, most dominant [sic]" 100' wall is NOT where the climbs are, nor is it the best place to exit the drainage. Keep going past that until you come to a flat, essentially boulder-free (likely a consequence of silt infilling after the Aspen fire) area in the streambed past that. There is no mention of the 1-1/2" or 2" (approx) diameter metal pipes you walk under ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rupley Towers : Bop Til You Drop (5.10 R)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Jul 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dr. Mr. John Baker, You're OK. I can't claim a raft of "R" ascents on trad gear... I've done a few, mostly by accident though. The older I get the less I care to hang all my bacon on a single hook...
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rupley Towers : Bop Til You Drop (5.10 R)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dear Mr. Baker,
Apparently you don't have a clear understanding of the system: FYI an "R" modifier references the potential severity of an injury in the event of a FALL. Last time I checked, if you are downclimbing you haven't yet fallen... (although if you observed me downclimbing it might be hard to ascertain the difference). Foithermore, if you read my comment closely you would note I qualified the "R" with "at least PG-13). Admittedly subtle, but relevant detail. Subjective? Perhaps you can... more >>
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Location: AZ : Eagletail Mountains : Courthouse Rock : Standard Route (5.5)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jimbo, your point is well-taken, but my understanding is that the AMC often utilizes this route for outings, teaching courses, etc. Therefore, I think the burden should fall on them or some other local(s). I have participated in other hardware upgrade projects (Warpaint in Cochise) in my own backyard, and if I were a Phoenician I'd probably take on this project...
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Cross-trainer (5.7)
By: Jerry Cagle When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW: We did this in 3 pitches. The route isn't inherently bad, but this is hands-down THE most poorly conceived route I've seen in more than 20 years of climbing. What's with all the intermediate belay stations? The belay stations that are more appropriately spaced are in incredibly asinine locations (immediately below bivvy-grade ledges), the chains at the top of the route describe a 170 degree angle (ever heard of force multiplication?), and a number of the protection bolts are on top of bulg... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Bug Spring Wall
By: Jerry Cagle When: Mar 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody have GPS coordinates for these two walls?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Bug Spring Wall : Photo
By: Jerry Cagle When: Mar 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody have GPS coordinates for these two walls?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock
By: Jerry Cagle When: Mar 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, Did you ever get a chance to find out what the "bowl" route's name and official difficulty rating are? Jerry
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Gumby Wall
By: Jerry Cagle When: Feb 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock here is bullet hard, and the holds are different from most Lemmon crags, i.e. sharply incut. Climbing these routes in stiff-soled hiking boots will add a level of interest, esp. on the upper section of GumButtress.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Wedge
By: Jerry Cagle When: Dec 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aaron, I think that the NMSU Library would be a good choice. They might be able to preserve/restore it.
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Location: Car accident involving Stev...
By: Jerry Cagle When: Aug 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's horrible news. My sympathies to all. I corresponded at length with both John and Steve several months ago when I was investigating purchasing some Acopa climbing shoes. They were both extremely knowledgeable and shared their insights at length with me. They were patient to a fault with my repeated questions. I had sent an eMail to them regarding resoles recently, and I know now why I hadn't received a response. Again, my deepest sympathies to all...
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