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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Super Mario Boulder : European Vacation (5.12b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very clean and solid white rock. Powerful and interesting moves the whole way.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Idol Point : Spectre (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was told, second hand, that when Doug Reed did the line, he put bolts on it so that people would do it. It's a much better line than it appears from the ground since the first 20 feet or so is somewhat crappy rock. I completely agree, if you bring gear, the protection is right where you want it.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress : Team Machine (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 11/09, there are 6 bolts (no pin as indicated in the Cater Guide, 3rd edition. Also, a yellow or green alien protects the section between bolts 5 and 6. Also, a black alien fits perfectly in the obvious slot before the mantle up to the shuts. Awesome line!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress : Underfling (5.10b/c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The drag is not that bad if you use long runners in the traverse and don't clip the manky slings in the corner. There's a nice pine tree about 10 feet to the right of the top of the climb that makes a nice place to build an anchor to set a toprope or rap off.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Perot Wall : Gun Lust (5.10c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called Gun Lust.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Dogleg (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is extremely height dependent. If you're tall, the dyno's and deadpoints are less of an issue. Regardless, this is a must do route!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Deep Six (5.12b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's worth walking out here for this climb alone. Very high quality movement. This route tends to be a bit dirty and some of the small footholds are a bit fragile. This route would benefit from more traffic.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress : The Growing Hole (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route with many thought provoking moves, can be a bit dirty near the top. 8 bolts, FA: Doug Reed
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : The Glory Hole
By: Jeremy Steck When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For anyone looking for dry rock in the rain, this area stays dry during rain, however the rock tends to seep after a heavy rain. Even if it looks dry, many of the holds tend to be pretty clammy.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : The Glory Hole : Lactid Acid Bath (LAB) (5.12d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 8/1/09, the 4th bolt is loose, not just the hanger but the actual bolt.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Photo
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guideline #1 for comments: don't be a jerk.
Save this stuff for rockclimbing.com
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Not on the First Date (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really nice climb! Well worth doing if you're in the area for the others. The crux after the 4th bolt is interesting and committing on lead since the holds don't improve much as you head into the slabby section to reach the shuts and you're a decent amount off the last bolt. There's a lot of crappy holds chalked up since this is easily toproped by many after doing Rico.
4 bolts. FA: Diane Connelly, 1991
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Indy wall : The Happy Fisherman (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of the route will be apparent if you make it to the shuts!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Idol Point : Spectre (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is certainly a trad route with bolts. There are tons of hand jams and finger locks. I agree, bring a set of cams up to 2". You could take even more if you really wanted to sew it up! Much nicer climb than it appears from the ground. Very sustained.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Perot Wall : Unnamed SL 10 (5.10a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the route described here is Trigger Happy, 5.10a. It has 4 bolts.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Power Failure (5.10)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if a variation exists on pitch 1 that continues up the crack where the bolts head right? I tried this, and led it to the point where the crack thins out, 5.10+? I was aiming for the bolted rap station about 30 feet higher and to the left in the water groove but could not find a way to link it on the face and had to down climb. Looks like a great line if a bolt or two was added on the run out face portion.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Pirates' Cove : Mutiny (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you don't have a stick clip, and you have gear...A #3 Camalot fits perfectly where you might want the first bolt to be.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Kline Wall : One fingered pic-pocket (5.10c PG13)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you do Skin the Thief, you might as well do this one too. Mostly a 1 move wonder, but interesting move at that. Well protected, bolts every 6 ft. The top has a little more spacing between the 5th and 6th bolts, but if you're worried, you can place a 1" cam. Easy climbing at that point.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Kline Wall : Skin the thief (5.10a PG13)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty nice climb, despite it's dirty appearance. Well protected, bolts about 5 ft apart. Thin face moves on slopping crimps. Cater Guide lists this as a trad line, would be PG13 for sure if done on gear.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Funkadelic (5.10b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To be more specific on the cam size, .5" to 1".
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Leave it to Jesus (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some notes on the climb: This easily protects with a set of stoppers, I only placed 1 cam (yellow alien on the traverse), and I tend to sew it up! All the placements are textbook. Also, this climb is likely harder for someone shorter. I'm 5'11, and I could reach most of the key holds and avoided the chalked up intermediates. I can see why some shorter folks that I know had more difficulty with this route.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall : Maximum Overdrive (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even with the cheater stones, it's a jump start to a jug. This route tends to meander back and forth a bit with some really cool moves in between!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Captain Hook (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 9/08, that last bolt that everyone lowers from is looking really worn. It spins and there is some sign of it pulling away from the rock.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : River Wall
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also take a shortcut approach by using a fallen tree spanning the entire width of the river immediately below the parking pull off. (9/08)
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area : Agent Orange (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the protection comment about "zip it up" on the crack next the pillar. I once fell there and saw my red Camalot track 2 inches before holding the fall!
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