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Location: CO : South Platte : The Turret
By: Jeremy Hakes When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 5.9.09, we installed a 2-bolt anchor on the extreme east face for rappelling safely. A double rope rappel with 60m ropes gets you down safely.
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Location: CO : Denver Parks Forum at Red R...
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Sep 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much too dangerous, Mark! Someone could get hurt!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Petered Out (5.9)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh. We didn't see that at all. We just built an anchor on that big block below your red circle. Worked ok. I think the bolts on Gumdrop go up that white water mark (?).
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Location: CO : Layton Kor Slide Show
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has the book signing and pre-signing drop-off been set up yet?
Just to clarify, there is just this one show at the AAC? The Neptunes show idea has been cancelled, yes?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Petered Out (5.9)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason - what bolt did you see/use from the Gum Drop Spire? We didn't see any bolts on that huge thing.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Aug 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "Falls Trail", which is not indicated on the State Park map but is shown in Tom's excellent book, is pretty much gone from the east side of the waterfalls area. Looks like a big washout removed a couple of hundred feet of it. What is left can still be found and used.
Also, evidently people still think that all the holes and crevices are where their empty cheap beer, burnt out cigarettes, empty water bottles, and doobie ends go. I carried out a backpack full of trash (all recycleable) las... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The screw locks at the top of this route are getting fairly thin, although still strong. They should be replaced some time soon.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Noddle Heads : North Noddle Head (First No... : Beau Knows (5.8 PG13)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are or know who the FA party might be (or if there was - I'd be shocked if there wasn't), please let me know any info so I can properly identify as such.
We did not find any evidence of anyone being on top of this rock - no bolts, no webbing, no trash, nothing. Still, we find it hard to believe SOMEONE hasn't been up here before. The only issue for us was that there is no way to get down without bolts or possibly terrifying downclimbing. There was one fixed hex at the bottom of the cr... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.7 Face (5.7)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just throwing out a feeler here - how would people feel about this being a sport route (bolted)? I think it would be a great route to have 4 bolts or so placed so it could be led from the bottom instead of always TR. There isn't much for trad gear, but it would make a great sport route, IMHO.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Poker Face (5.9)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 7 bolts including the anchor. The first moves (if leading) could use a spotter - very bouldery, and give the route its rating. Easiest line to start seemed to be on the right hand side for us. Above this first bolt, mostly 5.7ish climbing.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks : ... : Fender Route (Water Music) (5.10a/b)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hubbel's "Brown Book of Lies" calls this route, "Chamber Music". He does correctly show the route, though. Interesting!
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Location: CO : South Platte : The Turret : 5.10c/d hands/fist crack, e... (5.10c/d)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pete - Awesome. Thanks for the info. I have updated the route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Terryall State Park? Valley...
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you are referring to Tarryall State Park...
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Today I replaced the webbing and added a new rap ring to the rappel anchors. I also added screwlocks to both bolts to facilitate slings being replaced in the future. The big piece of rap material is a bomalloy sling (for fall protection in construction). It is rated for 5,000lbs.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Noddle Heads
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Part of my reason for posting/adding this area is to solicit input from the many climbers who have been in the area and done these formations. Please add routes and beta!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Diesel and Dust (5.11)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jun 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The slings at the top of this are in need of replacing. Both looked rotten and old.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Bob's Buttress Crack (5.9-)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Jun 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No slings on the wall. Sustained!
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Gorilla Milk Direct (5.9)
By: Jeremy Hakes When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone removed the two hangers from the bolts at the top of this route. The bolts are still there, just need new hangers, and evidently epoxy on the nuts so no one else removes them again.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Jeremy Hakes When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome. Thanks for the update on road conditions, Christopher. I sent you a PM concerning an ascent....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks
By: Jeremy Hakes When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm still interested in bagging those tech summits. :) Big Rock Candy Mountain is my next prize, although I don't know if I can do it. I'd also like to get The Turret and North & South Noddle Heads.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Jeremy Hakes When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pete - outstanding information on that topo! Thank you for posting it. Fascinating stuff!
Kevin - That's crazy! And amazing! Great story, glad you made it out alive!
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Location: CO : Denver South : Monument Rock
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went and touched the rock yesterday, 4.17.08. I would likely never give this thing a shot. You can literally crumble the rock under hand pressure - grab some, compress, watch as it blows out. Maybe with drilled pins you could aid it, but why degrade the rock?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone been down in the area recently? I'm also interested in one of the "easier" routes to the top, the 5.9 ...? Anyone have any experiences on anything "easy"? How about any updates on roads/access down there?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: That sounds like something I could actually do (the CMC route). Was it any fun?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks
By: Jeremy Hakes When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found biking to be the most efficient way to get there. The FR is in great shape, and took only 25 minutes each way to get to/from Chair Rocks. It measured exactly 4 miles from the locked gate to the bottom of the formations.
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