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Rock Climbing Photo: Me, at Red Rock Canyon


Member Since: Sep 24, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Jeremy Steck

Point Rank: # 70
Total Points: 5,630
Last Year: 280
Last 30 Days: 0
47 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2504 | Routes 424 | Areas 60 | Photos 78 | Page Improvements | Comments 100 | Posts 5 | Stars 1372 | Ratings 465
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Slap Happy (5.12c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: The large block on the edge of the arete above the 4th bolt is going to come off sooner or later. I've been on this route a few time over the years and it felt solid. As of 11/15, this thing is moving. Pretty scary since you grab it, yard outward on it, and then mantle on top of it! You can easily avoid it by just finishing to the right on Flirting with Mutants in which case you only need to stand on the block to gain the anchors.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : The Actual Parchments (5.13a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: The hold up there did certainly break. As of late fall 2014, the original crimp was gone, but a fragile "twinkie" hold remained. This is now gone as well (11/15) I believe the hold is sitting under the route on the small shelf. Now, it still goes, but I'm going to say that its a fair bit harder and probably no longer 13a. It looks like some of the twinkie hold is still there in the video posted, but what is left now is just a sandy sloper. The remaining hold looks fairly stable and could p... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 24, 2015

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Comments: As of fall 2015, many of the fixed draws are in need of replacement. Many have been here for nearly 15 years. We've been working to replace the draws on the routes that we've been on recently, but if you plan on coming here this fall, maybe bring a few that you would not mind leaving. As of now Hybrid, Chostakovitch, and Zohan are in good shape and a few other random draws here and there have also be replaced. Be on the lookout, some of the draws that we removed were severely abraded and su... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Max's Warm Up - Direct (5.12b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: The move where the hold fell off is not as bad as it appears. The difficulty of the move where the hold broke is somewhat height dependent so assigning a new grade is difficult. I'm guessing its now 12c unless you have T Rex arms.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Zohan (5.13a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: This route climbs way better than it appears! Additional traffic has helped to clean it up.


Location: UT : White Rocks
By: Jeremy Steck When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: After turning on to the dirt road, at approximately 5 miles, there is a split in the road, take the left, most traveled looking road. You can not see the formation at this point. Also, if you are driving a low clearance vehicle, going clockwise around the formation to reach your destination would be preferred.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: The approach directions for this crag can be made very simple. Follow the stream bed, using whatever trail system that you find. This is the first climbable chunk of rock that you will find on the left side of the stream. It begins immediately out of the stream bed and continues up the hill. The rock is of very good quality and tends to be vertical to less than vertical in most places. If visiting in the summer, it may be best to arrive in the afternoon to avoid having the climber and belay... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Cougar Narrows
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: It's a shame that these walls are not taller and more traveled. The stone is really of exceptional quality. No loose stuff here! With more traffic, many of these routes will clean up could really get at least another star. A great setting to hang out in the summer too!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Cougar Narrows : Nair (5.7)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: This is a cool route on great stone! Most of the pockets are much more positive than they appear from the ground. It's a fun one, especially for the grade in AF!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Cougar Narrows : Beamer's Claw (5.10b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb! It has very unique movement and I didn't really find it to be all that slippery (The Hell Area is far more slippery!). As with all the routes here, they could use a good brushing from lack of use.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Matzoland (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: This route is rad! Interesting climbing! One of the key crimps near the top is about ready to break. It's cracked and flexes quite a bit as of 5/15. A little glue could totally save the hold, but it would probably go and just be a touch harder without it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Mars : Alien Abduction (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: As of 5/15, the large jug before the last bolt desperately needs some glue. It's ready to come out. If I had epoxy with me, I would have fixed it. It would be a shame for this great route to have this hold come off since you grab it with both hands, clip from in and then later stand on it while clipping the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : The Scar : Sunkist (5.11d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Did a hold break on this one above the top roof? Felt way hard for 11d!


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Its Right to be Frank (5.11a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: As of Spring 2015, this route has cleaned up quite well. Although its not as good as many of the other routes at this cliff, it's worth doing as an alternate warm up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Area : El Diablo Wall : Purgatory (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Despite the rock quality under the first bolt, this is a pretty good climb. Interesting movement throughout. It would certainly benefit from more traffic to keep it clean.


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Soul Asylum : Ren and Stimpy Wall : You Idiot (5.10d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: This route is much more fun than it appears. Cool sequences. The top single anchor appears solid as of 2/15.


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Soul Asylum : The Watchtower : Red Cloud (5.10a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: You need to use the mid anchors to get down unless you have an 80M rope. A 70M doesn't even get you close...I tried.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Hippy's at Bat (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This photo is of Hippy's at Bat, 5.10a. Mickey Mantle is to the right.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Flirting With Mutants (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Returning 5 years later after my first attempt and being much stronger, I still found this route to be quite difficult between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. It's also a little spicy there as you would get pretty close to decking if you blow the 3rd clip, or at a minimum, you're going to fall on your belayer! That aside, this route has awesome sequences and is truly worthy of a go if its not too close to your limit.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side West : Primeval Atmosphere (5.11c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I think this might be one of the better lines at this cliff, save for some of the 12's. Blowing the 2nd clip might have some consequences, but a finding a good clipping stance or just stick clipping the 2nd bolt takes care of that issue. Worth the walk down here for this route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Tsunami Wall : Tremor (5.10-) : Photo
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: This picture is Low Tide


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Cool Your Jets (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This route is fantastic! A nice blend of steep sport climbing mixed with smeary granite foot placements typical of LCC. The bolts have glue placed on them to prevent corrosion. In my opinion, the bolts are ready for replacement. All of the studs and nuts are heavily corroded. Judging by the exterior appearance, I bet at least one of them is sketchy inside the bolt hole. Just a matter of time til we find out which one is severely corroded inside.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Welcome Back Cobble (5.12d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: This one has cleaned up pretty well. It is still a little fragile if your feet stray and bump any unused stuff. Great sustained climbing, not a jug haul. Requires good technical movement to make some of the poor holds useful.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Cannabis Wall : Mission Control (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: I've believe that Mission Control, 12a is doing the traverse right at the 4th bolt and linking into the finish on Three Amigos. This matches up with the originally posted description and feels like 12a. If done this way, the bolt protects the crux at the right traverse quite well. Fun slabby moves...and I hate slab! Straight up the arete is 11c, with the crux being the initial boulder problem. This version I would not want to fall on, fortunately its easy up there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Ivy Mike (5.12d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a pretty unique climb. It requires a lot of strange body positions, but it is really fun in my opinion.


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