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Me, at Red Rock Canyon


Member Since: Sep 24, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Jeremy Steck


Point Rank: # 64
Total Points: 5,255
Last Year: 625
Last 30 Days: 10
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Contributions


All (2099) | Routes (396) | Areas (54) | Photos (76) | Comments (105) | Posts (5) | Stars (1141) | Ratings (322)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Stratocaster Direct (5.12b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: The gate on the biner of the first fixed draw is still in the same condition as of 11/30/13. Clip it, but stick the second for sure. The crappy biner still does a fine job of redirecting the forces if you blow the dyno and keeps you from slamming into your belayer. The crux move is rad as hell!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Marshall Amp (5.11b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: If you a intimidated by the bolt spacing, bring a few .75-#2 Camalot size pieces and you can add more protection if you like. There's even a thread for a sling before the anchors. It's plenty safe and you're on easy terrain between the bolts, but there are plenty of placements that I noted along the way. Get on this thing, its fun!


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Margalef : ... : Estilson (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Although it climbs like a trad route, and might go on gear, it's bolted. The moves into and through the overhanging crack system are fun!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Hot Zone : Amplification (5.13a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: As of 9/22/13, the flake at the end of the initial boulder problem is about ready to come off. It used to flex a bit, but this is more that it used to. There are cracks at the base and you can see it moving and hear it cracking once you complete the sequence and lung to it. Needs some serious amount of glue behind it before this route becomes much harder and possibly injures someone.

Also, the bolt that's 2 above this section is coming out. More than just a spinner, the rock's erodin... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : The Gravity Well
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: This area goes into the shade around 12:30 in the summer.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Choss Cave : Hybrid (5.12d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Moves right on the rail and then up to Chostakovich anchors.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Queen of hearts (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Hard move at the bulge after climbing through the vertical pockets. Finding the proper feet for the deadpoint is challenging.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Back in the Saddle (5.10c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Good, but sharp!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Saddle Tramp (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Climbs like a trad climb until the undercling flakes end. Then, it's a thin boulder problem to the finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Isolation Wall : Isolation (5.12c)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Maybe the best piece of rock that I've climbed on in AF. So good!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : No Remorse (5.10b) : Photo
By: Jeremy Steck When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Looks pretty good to me. The right one looks like crap though.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Frontera : Captain Bullet (5.13a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: As of 7/21/13, the key crimp at the crux is severely loose. If climbing this route, DO NOT put your foot on the crimp as you approach the chains. I'm working on getting the goods to sure up the hold. UPDATE: Too late, its busted. When I showed up to glue the hold, it was gone. It still goes...but quite a bit harder now as the smallest hold on the route is now half the size of what it was.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Slice of Pie (5.12b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: I found the crux to be the last bit getting to the chains, however, if you know where the crimp is for clipping the chains, the crux is likely lower.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : No Man's Land (5.12b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: This line starts out on super solid rock, but about half way up, it gets pretty flaky and then becomes more solid higher up. If the route is chalked up, its probably pretty solid the whole way but if you're groping for holds, beware! The movement is quite good.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Choss Cave : Max's Warm-Up (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: This might be the best warm up at the wall, not the best climb, but it warms you up. Avoiding the bat shit is much easier if its be climbed recently and has a few ticks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Four Twenty (5.9+)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: Fun chill route. Crux is certainly the first few moves. Bolts are exactly where you want them.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : February Summer (5.9)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: That seam of loose rock near the top must have cleaned up. It looks like it should fall apart, but I could not find a single loose hold. Nice fun easy route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Burn Tough (5.11d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: Lots of rests on this one. Cool climbing though. Very hard to see the bolts when you pull the first overhang, but keep going, they are there!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld
By: Jeremy Steck When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: It's about .6 miles from the electric sign at the parking lot. If you park .5 miles at the brown sign you can get there too, but that path sucks! 10 minute approach. Best path is to climb over the tailings pile and not go around it. Trail puts you right at Smoke Em If You Got Em and Burn Tough.


Location: UT : Saint George : Zen Wall : One Hand Clapping (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: It's worth the walk out here to do this line if nothing else!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Crescent Moon (5.12a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: As of 6/12, the bolt below the crux is pulling out. Use caution! The hanger is a half inch away from the wall and the stud wiggles.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Three Bars Black (5.13b)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: This is probably the most unique climb at the Chuckawalla Wall. Very cool! For me, I thought the crux was the part where the route immediately deviates from the 12b to reach the left rail. Those feet suck! The climbing from hueco to hueco after the crux is the part that I found most enjoyable.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Trey Lizardos (5.11d)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: As of 12/11, the first bolt is there and all of the others are in good condition.


Location: UT : Saint George : The Soul Asylum
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Due to a massive flood in the Spring of 2011, the approach road was severely washed out. It has been regraded (11/11). You can now drive all the way to the foundation just below the Gorilla Cliffs with a 2WD car. The descriptions in the Goss guide are all still valid, however you must walk the leg past the Gorilla, Snakepit, and Simian Complex. A high clearance 4WD may still be able to make it to the Simian Complex, but the road is pretty washed out.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Lambada (5.11a)
By: Jeremy Steck When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: I think this route is much better that Director of Human Affairs. It throws a few more moves at you where Director let's up substantially. The traversing moves are rad!


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