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Member Since: Sep 22, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Jer Collins

Jer Collins
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Point Rank: # 1,178
Total Points: 657
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
55 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jer Collins been climbing?










Contributions


All 167 | Routes 49 | Areas 3 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 1 | Stars 55 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Slabtown : Unsolved Mr E (5.9)
By: Jer Collins When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: fixed. thanks.


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Slabtown : Rattler (5.8+)
By: Jer Collins When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: fixed. thanks.


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Slabtown : Mental Hygiene (5.8)
By: Jer Collins When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: fixed. also now, fully "bolted" (including ring-angle pin).


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Slabtown : Hunky Dory (5.10d)
By: Jer Collins When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: fixed. thank you.


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Slabtown : Ghetto Booty (5.10c)
By: Jer Collins When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: fixed.


Location: MO : XM: Closed Areas : (Closed) Andromeda Sprain
By: Jer Collins When: Dec 18, 2015

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Comments: A note on Andromeda access-
I have been climbing here for 20 years, and others for much longer.

In the 90's we used to park above on Roby Farm Road until one day the farmer who leases the land from the owner asked a large group of climbers not to cross his pasture. Out of respect of that request, the new approach then became driving to Huntsdale, parking at Katfish Katies, and taking the Katy trail three miles north to the crag. Biking is advised. It's a lovely warmup.

When you DO approach f... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Jupiter II (5.11c)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: Great belay ledges. Great climbing. Light rack. Didn't want it to end. Amos, yes that would be possible.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : The Throne Proper : November Daze (5.12a PG13)
By: Jer Collins When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: never mind all the poetic nonsense above. I added bolts to this, so now its a sport route.


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vegas Exodus (5.11c)
By: Jer Collins When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: no more pro needed. this is now all bolted.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Jer Collins When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: I'll add my pitch ratings to the consensus. What a great route. Easy to link pitches, but most belays are great ledges.

P1- 8 (to tree)
P2- 10c (to ledge)
P3- 7 (traverse, short)
P4-11+ (primo, great pitch)
P5- 11c (second crack. Mostly 10, with bp crux at "hole")
P6- 9 (way cool flake, linked with 5)
P7- 9R (delicate face to way cool crack)
P8- 12b (mandatory 11)
P9- 11- (super sweet finish)


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vegas Exodus (5.11c)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: 3/2012- broken hold at the crux probably adds a letter grade or two to this great route.


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vertical Smile (5.11a)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: this route has received some updates, 3/2012- the "slung hole" is now a bolt, and although a stick clip would still be good at the start, there is an alternate high first clip if you choose not to use one. The start is quite bouldery and I'd still advise clipping high(now the second bolt)


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Turn Your Head and Cough (5.10c)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: No need for slings or cam here. I added two bolts to the start 3/2012 13 years after my FA. I decided it made a better sport route than one piece mixed route.


Location: MO : WM: Warsaw
By: Jer Collins When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Warsaw is not closed. It is going through a redirection of the trail. Stay tuned for more info, but this is really exciting stuff for this crag on the horizon! The corps is psyched to make it work!


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Deadline (5.12a/b)
By: Jer Collins When: May 26, 2008

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Comments: fixed draws added to the second ceiling, 5/08


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Dark Divine (5.12c)
By: Jer Collins When: May 26, 2008

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Comments: you're right... it's honestly more like 30 feet.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W... : Zion Ray (5.13a)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 23, 2008

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Comments: so you are the culprit!
I need a photo reference to build my voodoo doll.


It's a shame this route keeps losing holds. It's one of my favorite at the throne, and on (supposedly) perfect rock. Guess we will have to keep getting stronger while the route gets weaker.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 22, 2008

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Comments: Clyde's come a long way, baby! good boy!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Dr-"was" a one bolt belay.
All raps are double bolts, or trees now, and can be quite casual.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W... : Zion Ray (5.13a)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Nate-
Ahhh crap, do you mean the sharp gaston with the thumb catch?

thanks for the heads up.

This is the second hold that has broken in the crux section. There is a small graveyard hidden below the climb...


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Paria Point : Sunlight Buttress (5.11b)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 19, 2008

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Comments: Nathan, thanks for the topo and comments.
I used your topo for the route and just read your notes, and had some thoughts.

Your "surprise 1"- the wording and labeling was confusing on your topo. In the end we just stemmed the corner at 10+. Bark was worse than the bite. A couple pee-nuts and tcus were the ticket.

Your "surprise #2"- We also pre-clipped, as indicated on the topo. We then freed and felt it at 11b/c (bouldery)

Your surprise #3- agreed, this was difficult for "11b". I... more >>


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : The Plaque Wall : Reintarnation (5.11a R)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 24, 2008

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Comments: I took the bite out of this a bit- there is now a bolt soon after leaving "Instant Karma".


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : Northern Exposure
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 22, 2008

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Comments: Another option for getting here is to hike north on the main Sams campground road. When you reach a small pond, head northwest(no trail) through the woods until you come to the bluffline(5-10 minutes). Rap into the base, as there are no gullies to scramble.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Outback : Warrior Wall & Last Chance ... : Slim Twist (5.10a PG13)
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 21, 2008

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Comments: I sucked the ingenuity out of it, but it's still a great climb. This route now sports two bolts, since my friends think dying is uncool.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W... : Quantum Leap (5.12a)
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 21, 2008

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Comments: Please clean up your six inch tic's on huge jugs after you climb this route.


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