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Member Since: Sep 22, 2001
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Jer Collins


Point Rank: # 1,004
Total Points: 629
Last Year: 127
Last 30 Days: 0
40 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jer Collins been climbing?










Contributions


All 149 | Routes 47 | Areas 3 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 34 | Posts | Stars 48 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vegas Exodus (5.11c)
By: Jer Collins When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: no more pro needed. this is now all bolted.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Jer Collins When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: I'll add my pitch ratings to the consensus. What a great route. Easy to link pitches, but most belays are great ledges.

P1- 8 (to tree)
P2- 10c (to ledge)
P3- 7 (traverse, short)
P4-11+ (primo, great pitch)
P5- 11c (second crack. Mostly 10, with bp crux at "hole")
P6- 9 (way cool flake, linked with 5)
P7- 9R (delicate face to way cool crack)
P8- 12b (mandatory 11)
P9- 11- (super sweet finish)


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vegas Exodus (5.11c)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: 3/2012- broken hold at the crux probably adds a letter grade or two to this great route.


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vertical Smile (5.11a)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: this route has received some updates, 3/2012- the "slung hole" is now a bolt, and although a stick clip would still be good at the start, there is an alternate high first clip if you choose not to use one. The start is quite bouldery and I'd still advise clipping high(now the second bolt)


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Turn Your Head and Cough (5.10c)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: No need for slings or cam here. I added two bolts to the start 3/2012 13 years after my FA. I decided it made a better sport route than one piece mixed route.


Location: MO : Warsaw
By: Jer Collins When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Warsaw is not closed. It is going through a redirection of the trail. Stay tuned for more info, but this is really exciting stuff for this crag on the horizon! The corps is psyched to make it work!


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Deadline (5.12a/b)
By: Jer Collins When: May 26, 2008

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Comments: fixed draws added to the second ceiling, 5/08


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Dark Divine (5.12c)
By: Jer Collins When: May 26, 2008

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Comments: you're right... it's honestly more like 30 feet.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W... : Zion Ray (5.13a)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 23, 2008

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Comments: so you are the culprit!
I need a photo reference to build my voodoo doll.


It's a shame this route keeps losing holds. It's one of my favorite at the throne, and on (supposedly) perfect rock. Guess we will have to keep getting stronger while the route gets weaker.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 22, 2008

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Comments: Clyde's come a long way, baby! good boy!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2+)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Dr-"was" a one bolt belay.
All raps are double bolts, or trees now, and can be quite casual.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W... : Zion Ray (5.13a)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Nate-
Ahhh crap, do you mean the sharp gaston with the thumb catch?

thanks for the heads up.

This is the second hold that has broken in the crux section. There is a small graveyard hidden below the climb...


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Paria Point : Sunlight Buttress (5.11b)
By: Jer Collins When: Apr 19, 2008

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Comments: Nathan, thanks for the topo and comments.
I used your topo for the route and just read your notes, and had some thoughts.

Your "surprise 1"- the wording and labeling was confusing on your topo. In the end we just stemmed the corner at 10+. Bark was worse than the bite. A couple pee-nuts and tcus were the ticket.

Your "surprise #2"- We also pre-clipped, as indicated on the topo. We then freed and felt it at 11b/c (bouldery)

Your surprise #3- agreed, this was difficult for "11b". I... more >>


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : The Plaque Wall : Reintarnation (5.11a R)
By: Jer Collins When: Mar 24, 2008

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Comments: I took the bite out of this a bit- there is now a bolt soon after leaving "Instant Karma".


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : Northern Exposure
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 22, 2008

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Comments: Another option for getting here is to hike north on the main Sams campground road. When you reach a small pond, head northwest(no trail) through the woods until you come to the bluffline(5-10 minutes). Rap into the base, as there are no gullies to scramble.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Outback : Warrior Wall & Last Chance ... : Slim Twist (5.10a PG13)
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 21, 2008

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Comments: I sucked the ingenuity out of it, but it's still a great climb. This route now sports two bolts, since my friends think dying is uncool.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W... : Quantum Leap (5.12a)
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 21, 2008

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Comments: Please clean up your six inch tic's on huge jugs after you climb this route.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Maiden Misery (5.10a)
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 21, 2008

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Comments: As of january 08 the first bolt on this route is very suspect. The rock it is placed in is as soft as dry crusty oatmeal.

Hopefully by the time you get around to reading this, buying the new guidebook or finding it on your own, it will be replaced by a mega-length glue-in.

Until then, just don't fall on it, and or back it up with a medium sized cam to the left.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Valley of The Blind : Fade to Black (5.11+ R)
By: Jer Collins When: Jan 2, 2008

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Comments: has this seen a second ascent yet?


Location: MO : Andromeda Sprain : The Andromeda Sprain Wall : Doctor Hook (5.11b/c)
By: Jer Collins When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: this link up now has anchors(at the top of Where The Sidewalk Ends)


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Photo
By: Jer Collins When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: It is Mile post 33, not 43.

Look for a sign pointing to Painter Springs.

Off the gravel road, take a right at 6.5 miles- the only obvious right turn.

Expect to drive an hour from Delta.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: Jer Collins When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: The rope ladder is gone, but has been replaced with new fixed ropes as of July, 2007


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Appetite for Destruction (5.12a/b)
By: Jer Collins When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: I'd give this route three stars.

On the thirty star scale.

Why, depsite all the wonderul descriptors above did I climb this route? I am a glutton for punishment, I guess... a masochist of misery, if you will. Or I guess, like Jim Howe, I have an insatiable Appetite For Destruction.

That said, it is a mastery of route finding and these chosskateers doing the best with what was provided. Hats off to those who put themselves at gunpoint on every lead of this routes first ascent. I have never s... more >>


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &... : The Couch Potato (5.9)
By: Jer Collins When: Jul 2, 2007

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Comments: this route now has bolted anchors.


Location: MO : Andromeda Sprain : The Andromeda Sprain Wall : Doctor Hook (5.11b/c)
By: Jer Collins When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: "Doctor Hook-Walk"

One way to make this route even "funner" is to keep climbing past the anchors, clipping the bolts of the extension, and step over midway up "Andromeda Sprain". Place some good gear here, or you are looking at a very serious ground fall.

Step out onto the left face and clip the first bolt of "Where the Sidewalk Ends". Follow this route till it's last bolt and lower off...For some reason there has never been anchors on this superb line. Another option is to pre-rig anchors... more >>


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