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Jag on "The Streak" 5.13a


Member Since: May 1, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2014
Contact Jeffrey Gagliano


Point Rank: # 1,919
Total Points: 281
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (95) | Routes (8) | Areas | Photos (30) | Comments (51) | Posts (1) | Stars (4) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Phase III (5.9+)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This climb is a sick exercise of strenuous & insecure lay-backs and fist-jams. No OW section to be found anywhere on it. 3 #4's and 2 #3 camelots help.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This is a really amazing climb. On par with Carbs & Caffeine and Matinee. The 10+ direct is quite difficult but well protected. P2 is R IMHO. The pins are manky, backing them up is not possible, the crux pin is bent (I've never even clipped it) and that crux...while barely earning the grade is tenuous until the finger-jugs are reached, then it's a cruiser.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Did this back in '99 or '00 one cold October day. My feet cut out on the traverse under the final roof. Campused for a move or two and did a wild dyno to a jug. Yikes! I haven't dared a repeat, though I do fantasize of it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: I haven't done The Yellow Wall, so I can't say with certainty that Erect Direction is the best climb at the Gunks, but so far in my book, it is. All 3 pitches are truly stellar. The last pitch, while not of the gymnastic level of pitch 2, is just an amazingly ridiculous piece of climbing.

As for P2 - I got a no-hands rest...once. While hard, if done juuuust right it will feel like 10c, but if you're off by a millimeter tho....


Location: NJ : Allamuchy State Park : Main Wall and Right Wall : 5.8 (5.8)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Lead this today. I got 2pcs in. The first was way up there and the 2nd was nothing to brag about. A fall just below the crux face would be very serious. Very R.


Location: NJ : Allamuchy State Park : Main Wall and Right Wall : Hourglass (5.8 R)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: This was my first climb here. Very nice climbing, albeit fearful in a few spots. Very R me thinks.


Location: NJ : Allamuchy State Park : Main Wall and Right Wall : A Year in the Life, Variati... (5.10d)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: I just attempted an on-sight lead of this route. I'd go with 10+. Ground fall potential. Very spicy.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Splittgerber-March Direct (5.10b)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Just did this route two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Having lead 36 other pitches during the previous 4 days, I was a bit knackered for this one. Each of the 5.10 pitches caused me some concern as I barely eeked out the on-sights. Beware of a scary traverse before reaching the base of the giant dihedral. The 5.9+ climbing up this dihedral is incredibly awesome. Though the vegetation on P2 & 3 detract from the overall quality of the route it is none-the-less well worth doing.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Just lead this route two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. The route is mostly 5.5 and lower, with occasional sections of harder terrain. An excellent route for the new 5.9 leader. Keep in mind though, this route will not prepare you one bit for other routes on this rock.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10-)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed this two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Route finding was not too bad. Pithch 1 is signifacntly harder than pitch 2. The 5.8 bomb-bay chimney is challenging as was the "5.7" chimney encountered later. Though the best pitch was the 9+ traverse around and exposed areate high on the route with scant gear. Thrilling!


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11a)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed this two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Incredible! After the first pitch (11b, IMO), the nest 6 are solid & sustained 10 all the way. Only a few 9 moves here and there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : It Don't Come Easy (5.10b R)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: Did this route maybe in 2008. P3 is must do! Just find a sane way to get there!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cirrhosis (5.9+)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: In the past I've done M2B to P2 of this climb. But this past weekend I did P1 for the first time. Not G by any measure. One #3 steel nut 5ft below the bolt still makes for an R start. The Move from P1 to P2 is quite hard (I lead it in one pitch so the anchor was merely a lone point of protection for me). You miss this mysterious crux if you do M2B first.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Sunburst Arete (5.8 PG13)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: An excellent adventure, especially if done in conjunction with P3 & 4 of Paralysis. The gear is definitely thin, so it warrants PG13. The areat moves on P2, while easy for the route, are quite spectacular!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Bloody Mary (5.9+)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: While I haven't climbed a 1000 or so routes in this range, I have been on many a route all over the US at this grade. IMO, P2 of BM will rank in your top 3, if not the first spot in most awesome 5.9 pitches evah. The climbing is ridiculous for the grade. Not for the difficulty (it's not over rated), but for the shear "What the Whiskey Tango Foxtrot am I DOING HERE?" factor.
Note: This does not apply to followers of the pitch.

BTW: P1 would be a fright-fest for the 5.6 leader.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Mayflower (5.10c)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: This is awesome route. Do NOT let the description deter you from P2 & P3. I did this soon after it was first bolted, and did not think in was dirty. Besides, if you want clean go to Gunks. The approach and entry into the final corner on P3 is incredible. IMO, this IS a 4 star route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Bikini Gold (5.10a PG13)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: Lead this as an on-sight 5/10/2011
The corner will command your attention. Fledgling 10 leaders may feel threatened going up the corner.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : Left Out (5.10+)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: Lead as an on-sight 5/9/2011. IMO, a tad light for the grade. The sequence is too easy to read and the holds are too positive to warrant a 10d rating. I'd go with 10c. Still an excellent route.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : a. Main Wall : Fracture (5.11c)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: This route is 10b.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : f. Big Wall : Hinterland (first pitch) (5.10b)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: This route is 12c from the first set of anchors to the top most anchors.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : b. Orange Sunshine Wall : Orange Sunshine (5.9)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: This route is no more than 5.7


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Children's Crusade (5.11a)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: I lead this back in like 04 or 05. Wowzers what a climb. Pitch one is a serious 5.9, while P4 is nothing short of astounding in both difficulty and positions. I placed 2 #3 steel nuts to supplement the near-worthless pins.


Location: PA : Delaware Water Gap NRA, PA : Mount Minsi : f. Land of the Giants : Voyage of the Damned (5.11a PG13)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Oct 19, 2010

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Comments: Lead this on-sight in March 1995. I went home and slept for many hours afterwards.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Bumblie Takes a Tumblie (5.11a)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: A nice route that gradually gets harder as you get higher that reaches a cresendo crux sequence getting past the last bolt.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Vibrator (5.11a)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: Getting past the bolt is height dependant. 10+ for those over 5'10" The quickly backs off to mid 10 for a ways. Maybe a few more 10 moves here and there.


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