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Rock Climbing Photo: me


Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact jeffozozo

jeffozozo
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Point Rank: # 1,108
Total Points: 700
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 597 | Routes 30 | Areas 5 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 162 | Posts 38 | Stars 194 | Ratings 135
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : 2 Weeks Notice (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Tough start, especially for short folks. You have to wedge yourself into the crack to the right and kind of hang low on the big holds. This makes it really hard to clip the low, first bolt on 'fear no evil.' Seemed better to us to stick clip the "second" bolt. Blowing the clip on either of those first bolts would be bad, hence the pg-13 rating.

The holds above the undercling are pretty positive and there is a really cool move from that ledge to the high jug just before the last bolt. Powerful... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : 2 Weeks Notice (5.11b) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: two weeks notice on the right.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Perky's Playground (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: This is a pretty good route to do with beginners, but the start is really hard to do in tennis shoes. the feet are a little tricky for the first 6-8 feet. Cruise over to the Damned sisters if you don't have climbing shoes.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Damned If You Don't (5.8 R)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Both climbs have good bolts for anchors now.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Damned If You Do (5.8 R)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: There are anchors for both of these climbs now. You can easily get to them for top-roping. This is a great pair of climbs to do with kids.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Skin Graft (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: The description says "left" of perky's playground, but its really around the corner to the right.

This is a great climb, really fun moves hugging the arete. It is well bolted and pretty safe. I'd say the technical crux is just getting to the first bolt. Seems left-arm intensive.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Moral Dilemma (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: The first few moves of this feel really difficult and athletic, but they are awesome. At the third bolt, there is a really big jug, hidden in a slot to the left that opens up that section. This is truly a great climb.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Popular Demand (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: The top of this is committing and thin. It is definitely harder than tombstone bullets. Easier than Eden.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : The Doghouse : Meaty Bone (5.12b)
By: jeffozozo When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: 5.10 climbing to a series of very sequential crimps and friction moves through the last 3 bolts. The bolts are positioned perfectly and falls are clean. Anchors are solid.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Flying off the Handle (5.12b)
By: jeffozozo When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: The "fourth" bolt looks like it is out of line, and off to the left of this route. It is probably the first bolt on "jumping to conclusions" as it breaks left. However, if you skip this bolt, it is a long run-out to the next one (sock puppet says to clip the 'fourth' bolt at your hip and I assume he means this one.) It looks like you could deck if you came off trying to clip it. I'd say, clip the slightly out of line bolt with a longer draw to make it a little safer.


Location: UT : Saint George : Cougar Cliffs : Catatonic (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: This climb is surprisingly fun. The opening moves are tricky and the first bolt is pretty low. A stick clip to the second bolt might be a good idea unless you're confident at the grade. There are a couple of reachy moves, and an especially high left hand off a juggy side pull before the last bolt, that might make this hard for shorter folks.


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : Woodbury Road Crags : The Solstice : Catch 22 (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: I liked this route because it follows a line of really interesting crystalized rock that winds up the corner.


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : Woodbury Road Crags : The Solstice : Eve’s Testicle (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Perin's description of this climb is totally perfect, even down to the fossil! This climb is worth it just to go see that thing.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Endangered Species (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: The blank section in the middle is hard. Good footwork helps, but you need nerves of steel to pull on that chalked up slopey pocket.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Nuetrino Drizzle (5.10a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: This is a pretty fun climb. easier than some of the other 10b's in this area. The feet down low are a little sparse, but they get a lot better as you go up. Seems easier if you stem off the left wall.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Namaste (5.11d)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: The red tag is NOT on namaste. It is on a project to the right of namaste.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Good Old Chuck (5.12b)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: This is really well protected, and the crux section can be stick clipped from the ground. The crux is very perplexing. It is powerful and exacting; strenuous side-pulling on not-so-good crimps. Find your feet, stand up and reach really high for the crimp over the right side of the bulge. If you stay on woo hoo! This is really just a 4 move, v5-v6 boulder problem, bookended by some easier climbing.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Pilgrimage (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: This is tougher than second coming--more technical and sustained. There are some really cool sequences through the crux area. The big ledges are not as good as you'd like, many of the holds that look all chalked up are slopey and I agree there aren't many good rests. The finish on crimps is definitely exciting after pumping out on the steep section below.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Happiness is Coming (5.11d)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: I feel like this is more consistent and a little more sustained than second coming. The slopey holds require you to choose carefully and hang low or you can run out of gas. There are a couple of decent rests. One is the big ledge that is shared with second coming, the second is just before the steep part and the third is just past the last bolt, if you go way right on the chalked up ledge. pull the bulge at the end of the steep part on a good right-hand side pull, go out left to the jugs and yo... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Puppet Strings (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is not a good top-rope, unless you extend the anchor over the lip, and then you kind of miss the coolness of pulling over the top. Top roping off draws (clearly people do this) will wear out your rope. The top part is well protected though, and a fall is clean, so it is really a great lead.


Location: UT : Saint George : Moe's Valley : Sentinal Area : Sentinal Boulder : Sentinel (V2)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: I think this is on the south face of the boulder, just left of Huntsman Graffiti


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Say what you want about this climb, but it is kind of the test-piece for the area. I love the variety -- tricky sequences down low. A nice rest spot in the middle. Big holds on the overhanging prow at the top. It is a really enjoyable climb.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Mecca (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: The route has been rebolted (along with numerous others). For a time, the old gym-style clips were gone. I put some new ones up. This is a fun climb to do laps on.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : The Doghouse : ... : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: That feature is so cool, this climb is worth a trip to utah, just to hang on it.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Where Egos Dare (5.9+)
By: jeffozozo When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: The start is hard. The first bolt is difficult to clip -- we couldn't find a great way to do it. If you aren't a solid 5.10 leader you might want to stick-clip the first bolt. The climb is pretty fun though, demanding good foot work on small features. It eases up substantially after the 2nd bolt.


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