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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,085
Total Points: 614
Last Year: 85
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 503 | Routes 28 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 136 | Posts 36 | Stars 163 | Ratings 110
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : The Narrow : Unknown 4 (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Seems like this is pretty easy if you stem off the wall behind you. Is that considered "off route?"

Also, I didn't find the anchors. I topped out and found two rappel bolts about 10 feet back from the ledge.

Did I miss something? This is the route just to the left of Lacy Swiss right?


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : 12 Gauge Conversion (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: If you start this over in the cave area (by shotgun baptism) it is really cool to pull up through those sculpted holds and then balancy to move back onto the face. A really fun variation.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Shotgun Baptism (5.10+)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a really fun climb and the start has a number of variations. If your short, you'll need a boost to get to the start holds.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : The Narrow : Lacy Swiss (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a pretty cool climb. The overhanging section is awesome, then there are some interesting technical moves on the face above. Some of the holds feel really fragile though, and there is a LOT of sand which falls in your face when you grab the holds. (hence the two stars instead of thee).


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Beavis (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: There are some decent holds on the face to the right of the crack down low that seem to be still "on route." As you get higher, it is better to drift left onto the slabby face.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Butthead (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: This climb is better than it looks. Some cool pockets, interesting movement around the arete and not a bad finish to the shared anchor.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : A Little Help from My Frien... (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Use a longer draw to clip the bolt just over the lip at the first roof. We had a short one, and as we got even with it and moved out right, the rope tended to drag gate of the draw open.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Farmers Market (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This climb feels like a gym climb. The movement is so cool, it is almost as if it was planned. The protection is good, and yes you CAN do it without stemming on the other side, but it is so much fun to straddle that gap...


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: I think it is easier to heel hook with your left foot, in the other direction. I think doing it like the picture might make it harder to hang on with your left hand on some not-so-positive holds as you tried to clip the draw.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Two thoughts: First, if you have short folks in your party, ( 5 feet or less) they will need a boost to get to the first hold. Second, the first clip is easy to get to -- you can just campus out to it, and if you can heel hook, it is not hard to clip it. But if you fell, trying to clip it, you could get seriously hurt. Stick clip is a good idea. It is a super fun climb!


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Crows Fly (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: There are two solid holds on the ledge above the anchor, if you climb past to get on these holds, clipping the anchor isn't bad. If you are really pumped though, this would add 6 or 8 feet to a fall. I don't think you'd hit the ledge but it'd be a nice ride...


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Still Waiting (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: The crux is between 2 and 3, and the 3rd bolt is pretty high. You need an attentive belayer for this one. The first positive hold is over the bulge and it isn't great. There is a really cool high reach to an undercling pocket near the top. This climb is worth it just to grab that thing. You can see it from the ground, and it is as cool as it looks.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Lefty's Paradise? (5.7+)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: This is a very nice, consistent 5.7 that is pretty fun, and great for beginners. When setting up a top rope, you should use a longer sling with a sliding x so you can extend the biners running the rope down over the bulge. two short quick draws at the top will cause friction and I could imagine the draws being tweaked open in the right conditions.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Casual Slander (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: If you fell while clipping the third bolt, I think you'd deck, or meet your belayer. This would not be a good first lead, unless you had TR'ed it first and were familiar with it. The pockets at the top are really cool though, and it is a very fun climb. The chain links are small. My BD hood wire quick draws would not fit in them.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Jerks Fly (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: This climb is really fun. There are some cool sequences that then lead to positive holds so you can rest a bit.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Witch (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Sandiness, tricky sequences, big pinches and a couple of long run-outs--an exciting climb to be sure. I personally don't like the slabby, thin top section. If someone hadn't kindly made big white tick marks on the only marginal feet near the top, I'd have pitched off for sure.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Mecca (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: This is nice and consistent and the crux is technical rather than powerful. There are plenty of rests above the crux as well. I like this better than As the Crows Fly. Also, it has gym-style clips at the chains.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Puppy (5.9-)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: My son seth, who is 12, and a fledgling leader, really enjoyed this climb. He has led it now a couple of times, and seems to have less trouble on it than I do. Maybe some of the moves favor a shorter climber?


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : The Fella's (5.9 PG13)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: This is a really fun climb. It is really nice out on the face of the arete, but you can climb to the left side of the arete as well, plenty of positive holds. The clipping stances are pretty good -- it is bolted well, though there are several places where a fall could land you on a ledge, hence the PG-13 rating.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Extinction (5.10a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: If this is the climb I think it is, it sure seemed harder than 10 a/b to me. Maybe I just found the wrong combination of sharp half pad and quarter pad crimpers to blunder my way up it. Seemed like the foot work was delicate and critical. The holds get bigger near the top, but solid technique is still required, and it is fairly burly to pull up over the bulge to the hidden anchor. Still a great climb, though. My wife (who's great at thin, balancey things) loved it.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Fly Boys (5.10a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: This climb goes to the highest set of anchors on this crag.The bottom is slabby and pretty straightforward, but you could get hurt if you took a fall. The sequence to get into the top section is a little reachy for short folks, making it a bit of a sketchy lead, as you could fall back onto the slab if you blew the clip. The climbing up high is awesome though.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Hopscotch (5.12b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a hard climb. Dudes who climb this and say it's easy are understating their own awesomeness. The description is apt -- the sequences are tricky, specific and demanding pretty much throughout the climb. I felt like pulling the roof was the easiest part because the holds up there are pretty big. A heel hook to grab that big flake is obvious, but moving off the flake is super hard!


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Fat Black Chuck (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: The anchors are kind of weird. Not unsafe, but there is a single chain that hangs way over the bulge. If I did this again, I'd bring a couple of long slings and some lockers and extend the anchor over the bulge to reduce the rope drag. the last 3 feet of climbing doesn't add that much to this, but the bottom section is pretty cool.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Sand Stoner Reverse (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Because this is north-facing, it is super nice on a late summer day. The belay area is awesome, and the features on the rock are just beautiful. It is bolted really well, and all the falls are clean. I would say that the technical crux is the first few moves, but there isn't anything here that is too hard by itself. Stringing it all together... that's something else. As you might guess from the overhang, cleaning it from the ground up is much easier than from the top down.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Conditional Bliss (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This route seems slightly less vertical than Caging the Zealot and is less exposed. It is bolted really well, but the rope is still quite heavy when you get near the chains. Using longer runners on the first few draws helps with rope drag. It is also possible to go right from the last bolt before the chains and finish on the ledge for Caging the Zealot this allows you to belay your second up from there and go to the top, or rap from there to the mid-station.


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