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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
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Total Points: 634
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 532 | Routes 28 | Areas 5 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 146 | Posts 38 | Stars 172 | Ratings 116
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Pilgrimage (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: This is tougher than second coming--more technical and sustained. There are some really cool sequences through the crux area. The big ledges are not as good as you'd like, many of the holds that look all chalked up are slopey and I agree there aren't many good rests. The finish on crimps is definitely exciting after pumping out on the steep section below.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Happiness is Coming (5.11d)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: I feel like this is more consistent and a little more sustained than second coming. The slopey holds require you to choose carefully and hang low or you can run out of gas. There are a couple of decent rests. One is the big ledge that is shared with second coming, the second is just before the steep part and the third is just past the last bolt, if you go way right on the chalked up ledge. pull the bulge at the end of the steep part on a good right-hand side pull, go out left to the jugs and yo... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Puppet Strings (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is not a good top-rope, unless you extend the anchor over the lip, and then you kind of miss the coolness of pulling over the top. Top roping off draws (clearly people do this) will wear out your rope. The top part is well protected though, and a fall is clean, so it is really a great lead.


Location: UT : Saint George : Moe's Valley : Sentinal Area : Sentinal Boulder : Sentinel (V2)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: I think this is on the south face of the boulder, just left of Huntsman Graffiti


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Say what you want about this climb, but it is kind of the test-piece for the area. I love the variety -- tricky sequences down low. A nice rest spot in the middle. Big holds on the overhanging prow at the top. It is a really enjoyable climb.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Mecca (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: The route has been rebolted (along with numerous others). For a time, the old gym-style clips were gone. I put some new ones up. This is a fun climb to do laps on.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : The Doghouse : ... : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: That feature is so cool, this climb is worth a trip to utah, just to hang on it.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Where Egos Dare (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: The start is hard. The first bolt is difficult to clip -- we couldn't find a great way to do it. If you aren't a solid 10+ leader you might want to stick-clip the first bolt. The climb is pretty fun though, demanding good foot work on small features. It eases up substantially after the 2nd bolt.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a helpful photo. I would knot have known how to get up the canyon with out this.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Namaste (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: Breathtaking. In my opinion, this climb is more about mental stamina than physical stamina. There are plenty of places to rest, but when you are sitting in "the pod," 80 feet off the deck and you still have 10 more clips to go, and you can't see the chains, you really find out where your head is.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: The information on how to get to this spot is a little vague. Here is the definitive:

The Taylor Creek Trailhead is NOT the way to go. There is a parking spot 1.1 miles PAST the taylor creek trail head on the right side of the road, just before the hairpin turn. That is where you park, then cross the road and follow the trail up the canyon.

Below is the entrance to the trail.

Trailhead for south fork of taylor creek.
Trailhead for south fork of taylor creek.



Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : The Narrow : Unknown 4 (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Seems like this is pretty easy if you stem off the wall behind you. Is that considered "off route?"

Also, I didn't find the anchors. I topped out and found two rappel bolts about 10 feet back from the ledge.

Did I miss something? This is the route just to the left of Lacy Swiss right?


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : 12 Gauge Conversion (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: If you start this over in the cave area (by shotgun baptism) it is really cool to pull up through those sculpted holds and then balancy to move back onto the face. A really fun variation.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Shotgun Baptism (5.10+)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a really fun climb and the start has a number of variations. If your short, you'll need a boost to get to the start holds.


Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : The Narrow : Lacy Swiss (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a pretty cool climb. The overhanging section is awesome, then there are some interesting technical moves on the face above. Some of the holds feel really fragile though, and there is a LOT of sand which falls in your face when you grab the holds. (hence the two stars instead of thee).


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Beavis (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: There are some decent holds on the face to the right of the crack down low that seem to be still "on route." As you get higher, it is better to drift left onto the slabby face.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Butthead (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: This climb is better than it looks. Some cool pockets, interesting movement around the arete and not a bad finish to the shared anchor.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : A Little Help from My Frien... (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Use a longer draw to clip the bolt just over the lip at the first roof. We had a short one, and as we got even with it and moved out right, the rope tended to drag gate of the draw open.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Farmers Market (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This climb feels like a gym climb. The movement is so cool, it is almost as if it was planned. The protection is good, and yes you CAN do it without stemming on the other side, but it is so much fun to straddle that gap...


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: I think it is easier to heel hook with your left foot, in the other direction. I think doing it like the picture might make it harder to hang on with your left hand on some not-so-positive holds as you tried to clip the draw.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Two thoughts: First, if you have short folks in your party, ( 5 feet or less) they will need a boost to get to the first hold. Second, the first clip is easy to get to -- you can just campus out to it, and if you can heel hook, it is not hard to clip it. But if you fell, trying to clip it, you could get seriously hurt. Stick clip is a good idea. It is a super fun climb!


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Crows Fly (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: There are two solid holds on the ledge above the anchor, if you climb past to get on these holds, clipping the anchor isn't bad. If you are really pumped though, this would add 4 to 6 feet to a fall. I don't think you'd hit the ledge but it'd be a nice ride...


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Still Waiting (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: The crux is between 2 and 3, and the 3rd bolt is pretty high. You need an attentive belayer for this one. The first positive hold is over the bulge and it isn't great. There is a really cool high reach to an undercling pocket near the top. This climb is worth it just to grab that thing. You can see it from the ground, and it is as cool as it looks.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Lefty's Paradise? (5.7+)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: This is a very nice, consistent 5.7 that is pretty fun, and great for beginners. When setting up a top rope, you should use a longer sling with a sliding x so you can extend the biners running the rope down over the bulge. two short quick draws at the top will cause friction and I could imagine the draws being tweaked open in the right conditions.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Casual Slander (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: If you fell while clipping the third bolt, I think you'd deck, or meet your belayer. This would not be a good first lead, unless you had TR'ed it first and were familiar with it. The pockets at the top are really cool though, and it is a very fun climb. The chain links are small. My BD hood wire quick draws would not fit in them.


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