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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,133
Total Points: 544
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Last 30 Days: 15
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 406 | Routes 24 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvments | Comments 109 | Posts 31 | Stars 131 | Ratings 82
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Voodoo Economics (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: 20 hours ago

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Comments: This is really fun, even though it is sandy and slopey in places. It is well bolted, and a good beginner lead, except the moves to the chains, which are a little committing. Beta, after watching my kids climb it is to stay to the right, use the crack at the top as a sort of lay-back and reach high with your right hand.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Banana Dance (5.11d)
By: jeffozozo When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This route is truly amazing. The holds are big and positive, the bolts are close together and the movement is unique and totally fun. The holds stay big after you turn the lip, so you can rest up a little before you go for the chains. The comment about clipping the small chains is true. would anyone object if I added a quick-link to that right hand side?


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Indifference (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: The top section above the ledge has some height dependent moves. My 5'1" partner had real trouble making the final moves to the anchors. If you climb the face (i.e. didn't use any of the holds in the crack) it is much harder.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Apostasy (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: I found this climb to be a little inconsistent. Hard start, kind of an awkward crux in the middle, and then really nice big holds near the top. Drift to the right around the bulge at the top rather than trying to go right over it. I liked tombstone bullets better than this climb and they seemed about similar in difficulty to me.



Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Crows Fly (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: It sure felt to me like the crux was the slopey ledge below the last bolt before the chains. It is so chalked up, that is difficult to tell what's good and what's not. There is a really nice jug about 2-3 feet above the ledge, off to the left that I wouldn't have found without the proverbial 'tick' mark. (perhaps the hidden pocket in the route description?) The bolts are spaced pretty far apart for this wall, which makes it a touch exciting, but there seemed to be good clipping holds/stances ... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sandcastle (5.10c/d PG13)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: The bottom is really sandy, the top is really sequence dependent. This feels like a boulder problem. The climbing is really cool though, and it is very different than the pockets on the rest of the wall. The location is really cool too. the PG-13 rating is because you could hit the ledge behind you if you fell at the right place. I really enjoyed this climb, and I'll do it often.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sands of Blood (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Due to the left leaning nature of this climb, it isn't really a good route to top-rope. The 10's to the left of it are better for top-roping activities.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : The Garden Of Eden (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: I loved this climb. Steep, with good holds, lots of variety (some cool pinches midway...) and a great finish on really big holds. Stays in the shade a really long time. The anchors are super nice, gym-style clips, so you don't need to hang your own gear up there.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Dirtbag (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: I found the end of this climb hard. I have climbed it a couple of times now, and if you go left or right, the holds get pretty crimpy near the chains. I like the finish of tombstone bullets much better. I'd call this 10b, because of the finish.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Tombstone Bullets (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: I would say the crux of this climb is in the middle--the moves to those ledges are a little committing. The ledges are pretty good, and you won't come off if you just go for it. The second ledge is better than the first. Even if you do come off, the fall is clean. If you rest a bit before you head up over the bulge at the top, you won't have any trouble on those top holds. They are pretty good too.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Drilling Fields : The Drilling Fields : The Drilling Fields (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I went up and scoped this out at my last trip to the city. I could NOT find bolts down low. It appears to me that the first bolt is about 30' off the deck. Is that right, or did I miss something?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Eastside Groove (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: there is a really nice belay ledge at about 200 feet. That makes this great for multi-pitch practice. The main crack is big, and takes larger gear, camalot 3's and 4's.

Lots of options to the top from that ledge. I went left, out onto the face which was exhilarating and airy. The "walk off" is all the way over on the other side (south end) of the rock and descends the west side.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Sessions (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: The bottom part of this totally shut me down. I bailed at the fixed draw in the middle. Do the holds get bigger at the top?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : North Ogden : Madison Wall : ... : Medula Oblongata (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: The ogden area book only gives this climb 1 star. But I loved it so much that I think the long hike was worth it, just for this climb. The crux is really cool and 3-dimensional. There's a nice heel-hook which opens the sequence. The rock quality is great, the area is beautiful.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : North Ogden : Madison Wall : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: the madison wall begins on the cliff just slightly to the left of center in this photo.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Can't Say (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Small holds and tricky sequences on this sustained route.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Something Must Break (5.11a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: There is a section of this midway, I think just before the 5th bolt where the positive holds run out. There are a couple of larger slopey cobbles that are ok, but because the first part of the climb is so positive, you suddenly feel a bit unsure. Spoiler alert: there is a good pocket out to the left that you can clip from. There's also a good hold above the bolt, and the climbing eases again after this cruxy section.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Pocket Full of Trundles (5.11c/d)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route to build endurance and practice strategic use of rests. The crux is low and tricky, I'd have had trouble figuring it out without help from a friend who had already climbed it. It is bolted really well, but because the crux is low, a stick clip is a good idea, maybe even for the first two bolts.
After the second bolt, all the holds are good, and it is just a question of using rests wisely. There is a section about 3/4 the way up where there are a bunch of 2 and 3 finger pock... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Poop Chute (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: With that broken hold gone, this has a really hard, reachy move to the "sweet" sidepull. The handle bar hold is really cool, but grabbing that thing is the only reason to climb this route.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Pipeline (5.11d)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: It is really fun to work out the crux sequence on this. It is well bolted and the falls are really clean.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Homerpalooza (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Goss book says 12a, but there may be only one, somewhat contrived 12a move on the climb.

Easy egdes to an undercling, thin holds on the face lead to a big jug, then easy climbing to the top.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: This area is right next to the west-side camp spot. This is totally cool, because you can literally get out of your tent and climb. It also means that if someone else is camping here, they probably monopolize the area.

It is a great place to bring the family, as all the climbs are easy/moderate.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Bar-B-Que (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: If you are camping here, and cooking, the smoke goes right up this climb. Hence the name, I suppose. Bar-b-qued climber.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Smurfs on Steroids (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: blocky, low-angle start to a lichen covered face with sparse holds/feet. Not very consistent.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Tasmanian Twist (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: This is a good lead, it just has a hard finish


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