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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,058
Total Points: 599
Last Year: 70
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 452 | Routes 28 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 121 | Posts 33 | Stars 147 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Witch (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Sandiness, tricky sequences, big pinches and a couple of long run-outs--an exciting climb to be sure. I personally don't like the slabby, thin top section. If someone hadn't kindly made big white tick marks on the only marginal feet near the top, I'd have pitched off for sure.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Mecca (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: This is nice and consistent and the crux is technical rather than powerful. There are plenty of rests above the crux as well. I like this better than As the Crows Fly. Also, it has gym-style clips at the chains.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Puppy (5.9-)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: My son seth, who is 12, and a fledgling leader, really enjoyed this climb. He has led it now a couple of times, and seems to have less trouble on it than I do. Maybe some of the moves favor a shorter climber?


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : The Fella's (5.9 PG13)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: This is a really fun climb. It is really nice out on the face of the arete, but you can climb to the left side of the arete as well, plenty of positive holds. The clipping stances are pretty good -- it is bolted well, though there are several places where a fall could land you on a ledge, hence the PG-13 rating.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Extinction (5.10a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: If this is the climb I think it is, it sure seemed harder than 10 a/b to me. Maybe I just found the wrong combination of sharp half pad and quarter pad crimpers to blunder my way up it. Seemed like the foot work was delicate and critical. The holds get bigger near the top, but solid technique is still required, and it is fairly burly to pull up over the bulge to the hidden anchor. Still a great climb, though. My wife (who's great at thin, balancey things) loved it.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Fly Boys (5.10a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: This climb goes to the highest set of anchors on this crag.The bottom is slabby and pretty straightforward, but you could get hurt if you took a fall. The sequence to get into the top section is a little reachy for short folks, making it a bit of a sketchy lead, as you could fall back onto the slab if you blew the clip. The climbing up high is awesome though.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Hopscotch (5.12b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a hard climb. Dudes who climb this and say it's easy are understating their own awesomeness. The description is apt -- the sequences are tricky, specific and demanding pretty much throughout the climb. I felt like pulling the roof was the easiest part because the holds up there are pretty big. A heel hook to grab that big flake is obvious, but moving off the flake is super hard!


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Fat Black Chuck (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: The anchors are kind of weird. Not unsafe, but there is a single chain that hangs way over the bulge. If I did this again, I'd bring a couple of long slings and some lockers and extend the anchor over the bulge to reduce the rope drag. the last 3 feet of climbing doesn't add that much to this, but the bottom section is pretty cool.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Sand Stoner Reverse (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Because this is north-facing, it is super nice on a late summer day. The belay area is awesome, and the features on the rock are just beautiful. It is bolted really well, and all the falls are clean. I would say that the technical crux is the first few moves, but there isn't anything here that is too hard by itself. Stringing it all together... that's something else. As you might guess from the overhang, cleaning it from the ground up is much easier than from the top down.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Conditional Bliss (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This route seems slightly less vertical than Caging the Zealot and is less exposed. It is bolted really well, but the rope is still quite heavy when you get near the chains. Using longer runners on the first few draws helps with rope drag. It is also possible to go right from the last bolt before the chains and finish on the ledge for Caging the Zealot this allows you to belay your second up from there and go to the top, or rap from there to the mid-station.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Just Another Bolt in the Wa... (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: climbed this today. the giant block-ledge thingy in the middle of the climb is loose, and wiggles a little. I don't know if this has been the case for a long time and everyone who climbs this experiences that and just sweats it out, or if it has come loose recently. It spooked me good, I'll not climb this again.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Solace (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the comments that this is the funnest climb on the wall. The end is a bit committing, pulling over the bulge on the crimps, but that is the only reason this would be rated a 10a.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Voodoo Economics (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: This is really fun, even though it is sandy and slopey in places. It is well bolted, and a good beginner lead, except the moves to the chains, which are a little committing. Beta, after watching my kids climb it is to stay to the right, use the crack at the top as a sort of lay-back and reach high with your right hand.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Banana Dance (5.11d)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: This route is truly amazing. The holds are big and positive, the bolts are close together and the movement is unique and totally fun. The holds stay big after you turn the lip, so you can rest up a little before you go for the chains. The comment about clipping the small chains is true. would anyone object if I added a quick-link to that right hand side?


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Indifference (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: The top section above the ledge has some height dependent moves. My 5'1" partner had real trouble making the final moves to the anchors. If you climb the face (i.e. didn't use any of the holds in the crack) it is much harder.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Apostasy (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: I found this climb to be a little inconsistent. Hard start, kind of an awkward crux in the middle, and then really nice big holds near the top. Drift to the right around the bulge at the top rather than trying to go right over it. I liked tombstone bullets better than this climb and they seemed about similar in difficulty to me.



Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Crows Fly (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: It sure felt to me like the crux was the slopey ledge below the last bolt before the chains. It is so chalked up, that is difficult to tell what's good and what's not. There is a really nice jug about 2-3 feet above the ledge, off to the left that I wouldn't have found without the proverbial 'tick' mark. (perhaps the hidden pocket in the route description?) The bolts are spaced pretty far apart for this wall, which makes it a touch exciting, but there seemed to be good clipping holds/stances ... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sandcastle (5.10c/d PG13)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: The bottom is really sandy, the top is really sequence dependent. This feels like a boulder problem. The climbing is really cool though, and it is very different than the pockets on the rest of the wall. The location is really cool too. the PG-13 rating is because you could hit the ledge behind you if you fell at the right place. I really enjoyed this climb, and I'll do it often.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sands of Blood (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Due to the left leaning nature of this climb, it isn't really a good route to top-rope. The 10's to the left of it are better for top-roping activities.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : The Garden Of Eden (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: I loved this climb. Steep, with good holds, lots of variety (some cool pinches midway...) and a great finish on really big holds. Stays in the shade a really long time. The anchors are super nice, gym-style clips, so you don't need to hang your own gear up there.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Dirtbag (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: I found the end of this climb hard. I have climbed it a couple of times now, and if you go left or right, the holds get pretty crimpy near the chains. I like the finish of tombstone bullets much better. I'd call this 10b, because of the finish.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Tombstone Bullets (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: I would say the mental crux of this climb is in the middle--the moves to those ledges are a little committing. The ledges are pretty good, and you won't come off if you just go for it. The second ledge is better than the first. Even if you do come off, the fall is clean. If you rest a bit before you head up over the bulge at the top, you won't have any trouble on those top holds. They are pretty good too.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Drilling Fields : The Drilling Fields : The Drilling Fields (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I went up and scoped this out at my last trip to the city. I could NOT find bolts down low. It appears to me that the first bolt is about 30' off the deck. Is that right, or did I miss something?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Eastside Groove (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: there is a really nice belay ledge at about 200 feet. That makes this great for multi-pitch practice. The main crack is big, and takes larger gear, camalot 3's and 4's.

Lots of options to the top from that ledge. I went left, out onto the face which was exhilarating and airy. The "walk off" is all the way over on the other side (south end) of the rock and descends the west side.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Sessions (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: The bottom part of this totally shut me down. I bailed at the fixed draw in the middle. Do the holds get bigger at the top?


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