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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,047
Total Points: 597
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 51
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 443 | Routes 28 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 119 | Posts 32 | Stars 144 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Moucha (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: It is easy to get confused and bear left following the bolts to fly in the ointment. I could not get through the thin crux section and couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble with a 10b. Then I went back and tried the right side. It is a beautiful climb and in my opinion, one of the best at the canyon.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Superfly (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This is a good lead climb. Lots of big holds and great protection. There are a couple of pockets that Todd claims may have scorpions in them. I didn't find any.


Location: UT : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: I believe this is Notch lake. Nathan Smith's guide book "Uninta Rock" is just plain fantastic. Great climbing here.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Utah Crack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: This is an exciting climb. It is a consistent 5.6 with lots of good holds, and lots of good pro. The middle anchors are at exactly 100 feet. A doubled 60 meter rope dangles just above the deck.




Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Interstellar (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: The only hard move on this climb is through the roof. The jug is easy to get to and fun to hang on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Homecoming Princess (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: Sustained climbing through the middle of this route. There are big holds everywhere, some are hard to see/find.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Phantasmagorical (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: the "5.9 way" is nice and exposed. You can get a pretty good photo from up the ramp a ways. There are plenty of good holds up high as you approach the anchors. The crux (in both the 5.7 and 5.9 way) is near the bottom, before you move out onto the face.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Fly Soup (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: The route is a little slabby, but it is great for the kids.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 20, 2009

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Comments: This place is super family friendly. We love to camp here. The kids like to catch crawdads from the creek. There are cool 5.10 routes right next to easy 5.6s and 7s so we get the younger ones climbing right next to the older kids. The weather is amazing, it is nice and shady and the people who are there have always been really cool. The belay areas are clean and open, with lots of room. There are literally hundreds of routes.

Places like this and the work of guys like Todd Goss make climbing... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Roof Route (5.10) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: Did she finish the move? What a great shot....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: How does that big top just not fall down?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Sudden Exposure (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: This is a GREAT climb, if not a bit short. Stay right on the arete if you can, which has some good holds. The face has some places where the holds are quite sparse. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

I recommend clipping the first bolt of the face climb to belay the leader as they traverse across the face, out to the arete. You can unclip that bolt once the leader gets to the second bolt on the arete, to minimize rope friction.

There is a great photo spot from just above the belay, w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Layback Crack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: The crux is near the bottom where the wall is a bit slippery. You need to use the crack. I didn't figure out how to "layback" on it, just jammed my hands and feet in the crack.

This is also a great route to practice rappelling from. There is a nice ledge at the anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 22, 2009

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Comments: How do you descend?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Ice Wall : Blues from a Gun (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: I did this as an onsite lead, and it was a little sketchy. The last bolt is about 10 feet from the top--there are plenty of good holds but the top ledge is kind of slopey. It looks like you could make a big throw to grab it, but you should make a few moves and work your feet up under you before you go for it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Da Kine (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: I TR'ed this the first time which made it so that I wasn't worried and I could figure out where to put my feet.

It is a pretty fun climb, but it would be a little sketchy to do it as an onsite lead. the crux is in the middle of the climb.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : First Lead (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: This is really a GREAT place to do a first trad lead. It is not too long, lots of different kinds of placements are possible, and there is a good place to practice building an anchor on top.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: From the parking spot to the top of the climb, and back to the parking spot it took us about 4 hours--we took it pretty easy though. There is a strenuous hike to the bottom of this climb.

I wish I would have brought my approach shoes to the top, because when we rappelled down, there is a bit of a hike back around the corner to the start where our other gear was.

The route is not hard, but if you've never done a multi-pitch route, this is a great place to do it. It is really quite satisfying ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Wheat Thin (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: There is a section at about 3/4th the way up, where you have to rely only on the crack, that transitions to face climbing up a little higher that I would rate at harder than 5.7

The book calls it a "committing layback crux" -- I agree, its a bit tricky.


Location: UT : Parowan : Shinobe : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: great routes cover this wall. There are a ton of bolts and solid anchors at the top. this is a great area, and probably under used.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Falcons Landing : Dynasty (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: I don't think there is anything missing. There is a spot between third and fourth bolt that is a bit sketchy but with a few good foot placements you can get to a bucket that helps you clip the 4th bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Sunrise Buttress : Sunrise Buttress (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: Really nice photo op at the top. Get your buddy to go up first and scramble over the edge and walk around to get a great picture of you red-pointing it on the sharp end of the rope. Morning is the best time for the picture.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Baby Rubicon : Caesar's Corner (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: If you lead this, the anchors are at the top of the Caesars Pillar. You have to kind of lean out around the edge, hanging on lichen covered holds to get to them.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: There is a local climbing school that uses this place to teach.


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