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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact jeffozozo


Point Rank: # 1,133
Total Points: 547
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 413 | Routes 24 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts 31 | Stars 133 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: How does that big top just not fall down?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Sudden Exposure (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: This is a GREAT climb, if not a bit short. Stay right on the arete if you can, which has some good holds. The face has some places where the holds are quite sparse. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

I recommend clipping the first bolt of the face climb to belay the leader as they traverse across the face, out to the arete. You can unclip that bolt once the leader gets to the second bolt on the arete, to minimize rope friction.

There is a great photo spot from just above the belay, w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Layback Crack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: The crux is near the bottom where the wall is a bit slippery. You need to use the crack. I didn't figure out how to "layback" on it, just jammed my hands and feet in the crack.

This is also a great route to practice rappelling from. There is a nice ledge at the anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 22, 2009

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Comments: How do you descend?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Ice Wall : Blues from a Gun (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: I did this as an onsite lead, and it was a little sketchy. The last bolt is about 10 feet from the top--there are plenty of good holds but the top ledge is kind of slopey. It looks like you could make a big throw to grab it, but you should make a few moves and work your feet up under you before you go for it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Da Kine (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: I TR'ed this the first time which made it so that I wasn't worried and I could figure out where to put my feet.

It is a pretty fun climb, but it would be a little sketchy to do it as an onsite lead. the crux is in the middle of the climb.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : First Lead (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: This is really a GREAT place to do a first trad lead. It is not too long, lots of different kinds of placements are possible, and there is a good place to practice building an anchor on top.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: From the parking spot to the top of the climb, and back to the parking spot it took us about 4 hours--we took it pretty easy though. There is a strenuous hike to the bottom of this climb.

I wish I would have brought my approach shoes to the top, because when we rappelled down, there is a bit of a hike back around the corner to the start where our other gear was.

The route is not hard, but if you've never done a multi-pitch route, this is a great place to do it. It is really quite satisfying ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Wheat Thin (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: There is a section at about 3/4th the way up, where you have to rely only on the crack, that transitions to face climbing up a little higher that I would rate at harder than 5.7

The book calls it a "committing layback crux" -- I agree, its a bit tricky.


Location: UT : Parowan : Shinobe : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: great routes cover this wall. There are a ton of bolts and solid anchors at the top. this is a great area, and probably under used.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Falcons Landing : Dynasty (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: I don't think there is anything missing. There is a spot between third and fourth bolt that is a bit sketchy but with a few good foot placements you can get to a bucket that helps you clip the 4th bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Sunrise Buttress : Sunrise Buttress (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: Really nice photo op at the top. Get your buddy to go up first and scramble over the edge and walk around to get a great picture of you red-pointing it on the sharp end of the rope. Morning is the best time for the picture.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Baby Rubicon : Caesar's Corner (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: If you lead this, the anchors are at the top of the Caesars Pillar. You have to kind of lean out around the edge, hanging on lichen covered holds to get to them.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: There is a local climbing school that uses this place to teach.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Upper 5.8 Wall : Another Friend (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: This was my first trad climb. I followed both pitches. Matt carried all the gear. This is the life!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: route namesGeneral ClimbingjeffozozoSep 27, 2013
climber finds jewels...General ClimbingjeffozozoSep 27, 2013
re: Primitive camping around St. George.Southern Utah DesertsjeffozozoSep 16, 2013
re: Best place to spend 2-3 mo. climbing this spring?General ClimbingjeffozozoSep 10, 2013
re: Scared to lead 5.10!!??Sport ClimbingjeffozozoAug 30, 2013
re: City of Rock...Stripe Rock & Lost ArrowNorthern Utah & IdahojeffozozoAug 29, 2013
Blitzo Passes...General ClimbingjeffozozoAug 23, 2013
re: New Graph Charts on Location PagesDiscuss MountainProject.comjeffozozoAug 16, 2013
re: Breaking out of V2 to V3Training ForumjeffozozoAug 15, 2013
re: Where would you move?General ClimbingjeffozozoAug 1, 2013
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