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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,133
Total Points: 547
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 413 | Routes 24 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts 31 | Stars 133 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Lichen Life (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb. It is pretty consistent and nicely exposed. To me the crux was in the first 15-20 feet, as it seemed that there were few places to put my feet.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Diamond Direct (5.9+)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: I would call this a 5.10a. Delicate feet on tiny edges, some tenuous, one-finger holds in the crack, and thin moves up high add up to make this more difficult than it might appear. The pro runs out in the top section, making this a committing lead.

To do the climb right, stay to the right, away from the Dakine holds.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Bumbling Gumbies (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: There is one committing move that makes this a 5.10. It would be a great route if only it were longer. It is a lot of fun. It might be harder for shorter folks.

There also seem to be several variants. Once the rope is up, you could climb the somewhat dirty corner to the left as well.


Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Here's some beta for camping at the city:

1. most of the time you don't NEED a reservation, but it helps. It is easy to do and you can do it completely on line.

Here's the link to the reservation web-site. Choose city of rocks, 'overnight stays' and pick your spot. You can pay on line as well.

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/


2. All of the camp sites are cool, but there are wide differences between them. Some are right next to climbing areas, some are a little further. Some are close t... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: This is a great climb.

When you pull your rope, stand way over to your left (as you face the route, looking up) and give it a good pull. The wind blew our rope into the cracks to the right and it got stuck.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: There is a nice cairn near the bottom of the route now, close to the trail. It should be hard to miss.

P1 is really easy (I would rate it 5.3), and the bolts are placed really close together (sometimes its kind of silly).

P2 is long, and the belayer doesn't have a good view of the climber after the first 3 bolts. We had 16 draws and we ran out. I would rate it a 5.5 or 5.6, as there are a couple of moves where you have to trust your feet.

P3 is 5.6, again a couple of moves where you need go... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Fall Equinox (5.8+)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: If you start the climb by going up the crack, it is an easy 5.7. But if you pull the bouldery moves up through where the bolts are, and then stay out on the arete, it is a nice 5.8+ I didn't mind the bolt placements, though the second bolt is a HARD clip. If you fell you'd hit the deck. A stick clip would come in handy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Day as Night (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: This climb has everything. A nice crack with some opportunities to practice jamming, nice face climbing, a jug-haul over a small bulge, an off-width "chimney" at the top. It is a really fun varied climb. The belay area is wonderful, plenty of room and great for families.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Iraq in the Back Attack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: This is a great 5.6 climb with many variations. Good belay area. The first bolt is a little high, but you can protect the bottom part of the climb with gear. this climb is east facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street : 8-Ball Corner Pocket (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: This is pretty easy climbing, except that there is a cruxy section about half way up that is a bit perplexing. Not a really good first lead. Also, though the climbing at the bottom is easy, the first bolt is really high, a stick clip would not be a bad idea.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a nice area for families. There is a nice flat belay area, and plenty of nooks and crannies for the kids to explore in the area.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Nuts and Bolts : No Nuts (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: The crux felt harder than 5.10a to me. That thin face really is thin.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Integrity Wall : Walk the Walk (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: big holds all the way up. Very nice.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Sunrise Buttress : Road to the Sun (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This is a really fun climb that seems to compel you to use good footwork.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Moucha (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: It is easy to get confused and bear left following the bolts to fly in the ointment. I could not get through the thin crux section and couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble with a 10b. Then I went back and tried the right side. It is a beautiful climb and in my opinion, one of the best at the canyon.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Superfly (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This is a good lead climb. Lots of big holds and great protection. There are a couple of pockets that Todd claims may have scorpions in them. I didn't find any.


Location: UT : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: I believe this is Notch lake. Nathan Smith's guide book "Uninta Rock" is just plain fantastic. Great climbing here.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Utah Crack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: This is an exciting climb. It is a consistent 5.6 with lots of good holds, and lots of good pro. The middle anchors are at exactly 100 feet. A doubled 60 meter rope dangles just above the deck.




Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Interstellar (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: The only hard move on this climb is through the roof. The jug is easy to get to and fun to hang on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Homecoming Princess (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: Sustained climbing through the middle of this route. There are big holds everywhere, some are hard to see/find.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Phantasmagorical (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: the "5.9 way" is nice and exposed. You can get a pretty good photo from up the ramp a ways. There are plenty of good holds up high as you approach the anchors. The crux (in both the 5.7 and 5.9 way) is near the bottom, before you move out onto the face.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Fly Soup (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: The route is a little slabby, but it is great for the kids.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 20, 2009

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Comments: This place is super family friendly. We love to camp here. The kids like to catch crawdads from the creek. There are cool 5.10 routes right next to easy 5.6s and 7s so we get the younger ones climbing right next to the older kids. The weather is amazing, it is nice and shady and the people who are there have always been really cool. The belay areas are clean and open, with lots of room. There are literally hundreds of routes.

Places like this and the work of guys like Todd Goss make climbing... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Roof Route (5.10) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: Did she finish the move? What a great shot....


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