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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,135
Total Points: 542
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 401 | Routes 24 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 31 | Stars 130 | Ratings 80
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: There is a nice cairn near the bottom of the route now, close to the trail. It should be hard to miss.

P1 is really easy (I would rate it 5.3), and the bolts are placed really close together (sometimes its kind of silly).

P2 is long, and the belayer doesn't have a good view of the climber after the first 3 bolts. We had 16 draws and we ran out. I would rate it a 5.5 or 5.6, as there are a couple of moves where you have to trust your feet.

P3 is 5.6, again a couple of moves where you need go... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Fall Equinox (5.8+)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: If you start the climb by going up the crack, it is an easy 5.7. But if you pull the bouldery moves up through where the bolts are, and then stay out on the arete, it is a nice 5.8+ I didn't mind the bolt placements, though the second bolt is a HARD clip. If you fell you'd hit the deck. A stick clip would come in handy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Day as Night (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: This climb has everything. A nice crack with some opportunities to practice jamming, nice face climbing, a jug-haul over a small bulge, an off-width "chimney" at the top. It is a really fun varied climb. The belay area is wonderful, plenty of room and great for families.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Iraq in the Back Attack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: This is a great 5.6 climb with many variations. Good belay area. The first bolt is a little high, but you can protect the bottom part of the climb with gear. this climb is east facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street : 8-Ball Corner Pocket (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: This is pretty easy climbing, except that there is a cruxy section about half way up that is a bit perplexing. Not a really good first lead. Also, though the climbing at the bottom is easy, the first bolt is really high, a stick clip would not be a bad idea.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a nice area for families. There is a nice flat belay area, and plenty of nooks and crannies for the kids to explore in the area.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Nuts and Bolts : No Nuts (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: The crux felt harder than 5.10a to me. That thin face really is thin.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Integrity Wall : Walk the Walk (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: big holds all the way up. Very nice.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Sunrise Buttress : Road to the Sun (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This is a really fun climb that seems to compel you to use good footwork.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Moucha (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: It is easy to get confused and bear left following the bolts to fly in the ointment. I could not get through the thin crux section and couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble with a 10b. Then I went back and tried the right side. It is a beautiful climb and in my opinion, one of the best at the canyon.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Superfly (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This is a good lead climb. Lots of big holds and great protection. There are a couple of pockets that Todd claims may have scorpions in them. I didn't find any.


Location: UT : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: I believe this is Notch lake. Nathan Smith's guide book "Uninta Rock" is just plain fantastic. Great climbing here.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Utah Crack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: This is an exciting climb. It is a consistent 5.6 with lots of good holds, and lots of good pro. The middle anchors are at exactly 100 feet. A doubled 60 meter rope dangles just above the deck.




Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Interstellar (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: The only hard move on this climb is through the roof. The jug is easy to get to and fun to hang on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Homecoming Princess (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: Sustained climbing through the middle of this route. There are big holds everywhere, some are hard to see/find.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Phantasmagorical (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: the "5.9 way" is nice and exposed. You can get a pretty good photo from up the ramp a ways. There are plenty of good holds up high as you approach the anchors. The crux (in both the 5.7 and 5.9 way) is near the bottom, before you move out onto the face.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Fly Soup (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 21, 2010

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Comments: The route is a little slabby, but it is great for the kids.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 20, 2009

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Comments: This place is super family friendly. We love to camp here. The kids like to catch crawdads from the creek. There are cool 5.10 routes right next to easy 5.6s and 7s so we get the younger ones climbing right next to the older kids. The weather is amazing, it is nice and shady and the people who are there have always been really cool. The belay areas are clean and open, with lots of room. There are literally hundreds of routes.

Places like this and the work of guys like Todd Goss make climbing... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Roof Route (5.10) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: Did she finish the move? What a great shot....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R) : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: How does that big top just not fall down?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Sudden Exposure (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: This is a GREAT climb, if not a bit short. Stay right on the arete if you can, which has some good holds. The face has some places where the holds are quite sparse. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

I recommend clipping the first bolt of the face climb to belay the leader as they traverse across the face, out to the arete. You can unclip that bolt once the leader gets to the second bolt on the arete, to minimize rope friction.

There is a great photo spot from just above the belay, w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Layback Crack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: The crux is near the bottom where the wall is a bit slippery. You need to use the crack. I didn't figure out how to "layback" on it, just jammed my hands and feet in the crack.

This is also a great route to practice rappelling from. There is a nice ledge at the anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 22, 2009

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Comments: How do you descend?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Ice Wall : Blues from a Gun (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: I did this as an onsite lead, and it was a little sketchy. The last bolt is about 10 feet from the top--there are plenty of good holds but the top ledge is kind of slopey. It looks like you could make a big throw to grab it, but you should make a few moves and work your feet up under you before you go for it.


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