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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact jeffozozo


Point Rank: # 1,048
Total Points: 597
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 50
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has jeffozozo been climbing?










Contributions


All 443 | Routes 28 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 119 | Posts 32 | Stars 144 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Utahnics Wall : Holy Moroni (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: I'd say the 5.8 rating is a little high. Felt easier to me. Lots of big holds and good feet. The bolts are solid but a lead fall would be painful in most places as there are several ledges.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Schoolroom Area : Drowning Baby Fish (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 23, 2011

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Comments: The hardest part of this climb is below the second bolt. Once above that it is good for the grade. staying to the left makes it easier, we found. Doesn't climb well in gym shoes. :)


Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: This is a nice map that shows you the area overview:

sanpete.com/downloads/Maple_Ca...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Groundwork (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: This is bolted really well, and it has a fixed draw so it isn't so difficult to clean. Very nice movement. Endurance is key.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Stick to your Guns (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: Any beta on how to turn the lip? what are the holds like above the lip? Where should you clip from once you come around it?


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Rubicon : Monkey Business (5.11b/c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: A couple of nice heel hooks on the bottom section make this climb really fun.

Many of the anchors in crawdad are "sport" anchors where you don't need to bring extra draws. These anchors are not like that, they are regular heavy-duty bolts. They both spin as well. The rock seems solid, there is a nice stance at the top to rig the anchor for rappel, but it was a bit unnerving that both of the bolts spun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : In The Pink (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 22, 2010

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Comments: There are two bolts on the upper face, but it is kind of awkward to go clip them. The climb sort of compels you to stay to the left of the bolts. The roof is pretty fun though. Bring some extra pieces for the upper section, as the bolts are spaced pretty far apart, and there is a long space from the 2nd bolt to the chains.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Lawyers, Guns, and Money (5.10)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 22, 2010

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Comments: The face part of this climb is incredibly thin. It felt 11ish to me. Maybe I am wimpy, but I found the face totally blank. The roof was really fun. It kind of felt like a mirror image of the Apex roof.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Apex (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: This is a really great climb for a new trad leader. There are lots of places to put all different kinds of protection. The stances to place the pro are all good. The move from the "apex" of the roof out onto the face is fantastic, but it felt a little harder than a 5.7 move. None of the rest of the climb is any harder than 5.5 or 5.6


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: Hahah! Or smuggling or immigration.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Banana Dance (5.11d)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 1, 2010

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Comments: nice video, matt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Lichen Life (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb. It is pretty consistent and nicely exposed. To me the crux was in the first 15-20 feet, as it seemed that there were few places to put my feet.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Diamond Direct (5.9+)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: I would call this a 5.10a. Delicate feet on tiny edges, some tenuous, one-finger holds in the crack, and thin moves up high add up to make this more difficult than it might appear. The pro runs out in the top section, making this a committing lead.

To do the climb right, stay to the right, away from the Dakine holds.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Bumbling Gumbies (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: There is one committing move that makes this a 5.10. It would be a great route if only it were longer. It is a lot of fun. It might be harder for shorter folks.

There also seem to be several variants. Once the rope is up, you could climb the somewhat dirty corner to the left as well.


Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Here's some beta for camping at the city:

1. most of the time you don't NEED a reservation, but it helps. It is easy to do and you can do it completely on line.

Here's the link to the reservation web-site. Choose city of rocks, 'overnight stays' and pick your spot. You can pay on line as well.

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/


2. All of the camp sites are cool, but there are wide differences between them. Some are right next to climbing areas, some are a little further. Some are close t... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: This is a great climb.

When you pull your rope, stand way over to your left (as you face the route, looking up) and give it a good pull. The wind blew our rope into the cracks to the right and it got stuck.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: There is a nice cairn near the bottom of the route now, close to the trail. It should be hard to miss.

P1 is really easy (I would rate it 5.3), and the bolts are placed really close together (sometimes its kind of silly).

P2 is long, and the belayer doesn't have a good view of the climber after the first 3 bolts. We had 16 draws and we ran out. I would rate it a 5.5 or 5.6, as there are a couple of moves where you have to trust your feet.

P3 is 5.6, again a couple of moves where you need go... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Fall Equinox (5.8+)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: If you start the climb by going up the crack, it is an easy 5.7. But if you pull the bouldery moves up through where the bolts are, and then stay out on the arete, it is a nice 5.8+ I didn't mind the bolt placements, though the second bolt is a HARD clip. If you fell you'd hit the deck. A stick clip would come in handy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Day as Night (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: This climb has everything. A nice crack with some opportunities to practice jamming, nice face climbing, a jug-haul over a small bulge, an off-width "chimney" at the top. It is a really fun varied climb. The belay area is wonderful, plenty of room and great for families.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Iraq in the Back Attack (5.6)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: This is a great 5.6 climb with many variations. Good belay area. The first bolt is a little high, but you can protect the bottom part of the climb with gear. this climb is east facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street : 8-Ball Corner Pocket (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: This is pretty easy climbing, except that there is a cruxy section about half way up that is a bit perplexing. Not a really good first lead. Also, though the climbing at the bottom is easy, the first bolt is really high, a stick clip would not be a bad idea.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a nice area for families. There is a nice flat belay area, and plenty of nooks and crannies for the kids to explore in the area.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Nuts and Bolts : No Nuts (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: The crux felt harder than 5.10a to me. That thin face really is thin.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Integrity Wall : Walk the Walk (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: big holds all the way up. Very nice.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Sunrise Buttress : Road to the Sun (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This is a really fun climb that seems to compel you to use good footwork.


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