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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: Dec 13, 2013
Contact jeffozozo


Point Rank: # 1,109
Total Points: 529
Last Year: 184
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (377) | Routes (24) | Areas (5) | Photos (23) | Comments (99) | Posts (31) | Stars (123) | Ratings (72)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: It is a LOT steeper than it looks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : Unkown 5.8 (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this again the other day with a young women's group. It is a cool climb with a bunch of really fun moves. There is a pocket-undercling combo early in the climb that is really fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: A single 70 meter rope gets you all the way down with 10 feet to spare. No need to bring two 60's. Also, the first pitch just needs small things, nuts and cams #.75 and smaller. I used a #1, a #2 and #3 to build anchor at the belay ledge.

If you use really long runners on the first part, before the bolt, it will reduce the rope drag. I clipped the bolt, but I didn't use a long enough runner and I suffered for it belaying from above.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Porter Cash Wall
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: There are two areas here. The first one has Man in Black and Cocaine Blues, and the other has the other three. The beta guide sheet says they are just around the corner, but you have to go down a pretty steep, loose trail and then around and then back up another steep trail to get to the other climbs. And there is a bunch of poison oak in the area where the other three climbs are.

The best climb on this wall is the crack to the right of Man In Black in the first area. We even started it from th... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Porter Cash Wall : Man In Black (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: It was hard to figure out from the beta photo what this route actually is. There are really good holds out to the right in the crack, but they seem too far away to be on route.

To follow the drawn line in the picture seemed way harder than going around the 10d way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Porter Cash Wall : Cocaine Blues (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: This would be a hard onsight. It is bolted well, but the moves over the bulge are a little tricky. I found it hard to clip the 3rd bolt -- there is a crimpy thing for your left hand but it is pretty high and hard to find.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : The Lost Bolt (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The bottom links on the chains look pretty worn.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Solar Cave : Solar Power (5.12c)
By: jeffozozo When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: Finishing moves from the undercling to the big jug at the anchor are awesome. The route is bolted really well.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Rubicon : Hard Cranking Dude (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This climb is labeled at the bottom as 5.11 b/c. In the Goss guidebook, there is a note that says "if climbed as a crack climb it is 5.9 or so."

I'd call it 5.10a. I can't figure out how/why you'd want to try to climb this without using the holds in the crack.

The anchors are quite a ways to the right of the bottom of the climb and are not visible from the bottom, making it difficult to top rope. But I found that you can leave the last draw clipped or use it as a 'tram' and it works ok. It is... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Baby Rubicon : Negative Ions (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This a solid 5.9 lead. The moves at the top are a little committing. The climb is great, pockets, edges, an undercling... very nice.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Rubicon : Sparkle and Fade (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This is a cool climb. There is a nice arm-bar rest mid way.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: Hahaha! That's perfect. I guess in a state that brought us Disneyland and Universal Studios it is probably important to make it clear.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : The Doghouse : The Doghouse Arete (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This is a totally fun climb. Very 3-Dimensional around the arete. Great place to belay. The bolts are great and it has a nice new set of chains at the top.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Moral Dilemma (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: The first bolt is high and doesn't afford a great clipping stance as the route is really overhanging at this point. A stick clip is a good idea.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Luck of the Irish (5.9+)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This is a tough lead. The moves at the bottom are hard. We found that if we stayed in the crack system to the right, it was better than trying to use the chalked up dubious pockets out left.

The holds around the second bolt are sharp and crimpy. It eases substantially after the second bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Run Bunny, Run (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: There is a pretty good sequence of 5.9ish climbing right directly above the bolt line to the left of the ledge. If someone would finish it off by putting a bolt to the left of the ledge, and then put a set of anchors to the left of the ledge, this would be an awesome climb. As it is, clipping the bolt above the ledge and then trying to get up to the anchors is dangerous. The bolt above the ledge won't protect a fall onto that ledge unless the belayer really keeps a tight reign on the climber.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : What Was I Thinking (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: This is a really cool climb. The lower overhang has some good holds, and there are some really cool, sequency moves you have to make up higher.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Degenerate Matter (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: If this is the route I think it is, there were 4 bolts. Clipping the second bolt is scary, but once above that, the big pockets are awesome.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Moses Had a Stick Clip (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: What is the route directly to the left of moses had a stick clip?


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Cyclops (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: I give it two stars only because it is so short. It is fun to grab the "eye" though...


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Oh My Hell (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: A great climb. Some of the moves are easier if you are taller. Feet aren't great for shorter folks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Chambered Nautilus (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: This is a really well protected route. The first bolt is very high though, and the start is bouldery. A stick clip would be a good idea. Folks are right about the 3rd to last bolt needing to either be unclipped or use a long runner. There is also a really good rest, right before the roof. You could have a sandwich before heading over the roof...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Utahnics Wall : Utahnics (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: I think this is a better route than Holy Moroni, and not really that much more difficult. Lots of big holds, just one thin section in the middle.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Utahnics Wall : Diamondback (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: Shares anchors with Utahnics, so you could TR this.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Utahnics Wall : Hype Dependent (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: Couldn't figure the dyno. There's a big pinch in the middle of the route just below the 2nd bolt. Folks with a big reach (not me) might be able to use the arete to the left to get up to the juggy part.

This route can be top-roped, if you don't mind an airy swing on a fall.

I'd like to work this route, but it is a long walk up that steep boulder field... I might not get back there soon...


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