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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 401 | Routes 24 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 31 | Stars 130 | Ratings 80
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Tasmanian Twist (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: This is a good lead, it just has a hard finish


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Cartoon Crag : Ego Massage (5.8+)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: This route is cool because you can climb the tree at the top by the anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Escape Buttress : Monkey Meet (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Great big, positive holds for most of this climb. There is kind of a cruxy move at the bulge near the top. Find some good jugs, rest up, then go straight up.

Don't let the 10d rating intimidate you. If you are a 10a climber, you'll still really like this climb. All the bolts are easy to clip, they are well spaced, and it is rewarding to turn that bulge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Escape Buttress : Jug for Joy (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: The climb zigs and zags across the bolt line. The holds are all there, but they are kind of hard to find. There is some great movement on this climb, and once you dial it, it is really fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Juggernaut (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: a left heel hook into one of the high pockets seemed to unlock the crux for me...


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Rubicon : Manifest Destiny (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: This is a super cool line. Big holds to a big pinch and a sloper, then small pockets to the top. I found that if you extend the draws in a few places, it makes the clips a bit easier.


Location: General Climbing : Take your kid's out climbin... : Post : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 28, 2012

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Comments: Holy cow! I would think sophie's mom would be having a heart attack about now...


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Colossus (5.10c)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the "roll onto the ledge" mantel just after the hueco undercling/layback...

This is a very cool climb.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Norma's Book (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: This is an amazingly cool climb that is wonderfully varied in what it requires to climb it. I'd say the crux moves at the top are 5.7 though. There are great holds and you can stem to put in gear, but there's even an bit of an overhanging section.

Some beta:

Climb up on the ledge to belay by using the wide trough next to a big tree growing out of a crack. You'll know the tree because everyone else has used it to climb up, and its bark is worn smooth. If you climb up on to the ledge, and you ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: It is a LOT steeper than it looks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : Unkown 5.8 (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this again the other day with a young women's group. It is a cool climb with a bunch of really fun moves. There is a pocket-undercling combo early in the climb that is really fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: A single 70 meter rope gets you all the way down with 10 feet to spare. No need to bring two 60's. Also, the first pitch just needs small things, nuts and cams #.75 and smaller. I used a #1, a #2 and #3 to build anchor at the belay ledge.

If you use really long runners on the first part, before the bolt, it will reduce the rope drag. I clipped the bolt, but I didn't use a long enough runner and I suffered for it belaying from above.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Porter Cash Wall
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: There are two areas here. The first one has Man in Black and Cocaine Blues, and the other has the other three. The beta guide sheet says they are just around the corner, but you have to go down a pretty steep, loose trail and then around and then back up another steep trail to get to the other climbs. And there is a bunch of poison oak in the area where the other three climbs are.

The best climb on this wall is the crack to the right of Man In Black in the first area. We even started it from th... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Porter Cash Wall : Man In Black (5.10b)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: It was hard to figure out from the beta photo what this route actually is. There are really good holds out to the right in the crack, but they seem too far away to be on route.

To follow the drawn line in the picture seemed way harder than going around the 10d way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Porter Cash Wall : Cocaine Blues (5.10d)
By: jeffozozo When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: This would be a hard onsight. It is bolted well, but the moves over the bulge are a little tricky. I found it hard to clip the 3rd bolt -- there is a crimpy thing for your left hand but it is pretty high and hard to find.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : The Lost Bolt (5.7)
By: jeffozozo When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The bottom links on the chains look pretty worn.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Solar Cave : Solar Power (5.12c)
By: jeffozozo When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: Finishing moves from the undercling to the big jug at the anchor are awesome. The route is bolted really well.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Rubicon : Hard Cranking Dude (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This climb is labeled at the bottom as 5.11 b/c. In the Goss guidebook, there is a note that says "if climbed as a crack climb it is 5.9 or so."

I'd call it 5.10a. I can't figure out how/why you'd want to try to climb this without using the holds in the crack.

The anchors are quite a ways to the right of the bottom of the climb and are not visible from the bottom, making it difficult to top rope. But I found that you can leave the last draw clipped or use it as a 'tram' and it works ok. It is... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Baby Rubicon : Negative Ions (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This a solid 5.9 lead. The moves at the top are a little committing. The climb is great, pockets, edges, an undercling... very nice.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Rubicon : Sparkle and Fade (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This is a cool climb. There is a nice arm-bar rest mid way.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Photo
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: Hahaha! That's perfect. I guess in a state that brought us Disneyland and Universal Studios it is probably important to make it clear.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : The Doghouse : The Doghouse Arete (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This is a totally fun climb. Very 3-Dimensional around the arete. Great place to belay. The bolts are great and it has a nice new set of chains at the top.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Moral Dilemma (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: The first bolt is high and doesn't afford a great clipping stance as the route is really overhanging at this point. A stick clip is a good idea.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Luck of the Irish (5.9+)
By: jeffozozo When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This is a tough lead. The moves at the bottom are hard. We found that if we stayed in the crack system to the right, it was better than trying to use the chalked up dubious pockets out left.

The holds around the second bolt are sharp and crimpy. It eases substantially after the second bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Run Bunny, Run (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: There is a pretty good sequence of 5.9ish climbing right directly above the bolt line to the left of the ledge. If someone would finish it off by putting a bolt to the left of the ledge, and then put a set of anchors to the left of the ledge, this would be an awesome climb. As it is, clipping the bolt above the ledge and then trying to get up to the anchors is dangerous. The bolt above the ledge won't protect a fall onto that ledge unless the belayer really keeps a tight reign on the climber.


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