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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,064
Total Points: 604
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 472 | Routes 28 | Areas 5 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 126 | Posts 34 | Stars 154 | Ratings 100
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Audrey on Turnstyles

Audrey on Turnstyles

UT : Saint George : ... : Turnstyles (5.9)

Mar 23, 2010

jenny on Sudden Exposure in Ogden Canyon.  It is a...

jenny on Sudden Exposure in Ogden Canyon. It is a bit steeper than this picture makes it seem.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Sudden Exposure (5.8)

Dec 14, 2009

This route is called Bring your lunch and is just ...

This route is called Bring your lunch and is just to the right of cub-scout corner. There is no pro. build an anchor on top, and TR it.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Bring Your Lunch (5.10a)

Oct 21, 2009

a picture of the crag from the hike up

a picture of the crag from the hike up

UT : Parowan : Shinobe

Oct 14, 2009

me

me

jeffozozo : my pics

Oct 14, 2009

Jenny climbing sunrise buttress.

Jenny climbing sunrise buttress.

UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo

Oct 13, 2009

Narcolepsy. This is a really fun climb in an amazi...

Narcolepsy. This is a really fun climb in an amazing place

UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo

Oct 13, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Crows Fly (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: There are two solid holds on the ledge above the anchor, if you climb past to get on these holds, clipping the anchor isn't bad. If you are really pumped though, this would add 6 or 8 feet to a fall. I don't think you'd hit the ledge but it'd be a nice ride...


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Still Waiting (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: The crux is between 2 and 3, and the 3rd bolt is pretty high. You need an attentive belayer for this one. The first positive hold is over the bulge and it isn't great. There is a really cool high reach to an undercling pocket near the top. This climb is worth it just to grab that thing. You can see it from the ground, and it is as cool as it looks.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Lefty's Paradise? (5.7+)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: This is a very nice, consistent 5.7 that is pretty fun, and great for beginners. When setting up a top rope, you should use a longer sling with a sliding x so you can extend the biners running the rope down over the bulge. two short quick draws at the top will cause friction and I could imagine the draws being tweaked open in the right conditions.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Casual Slander (5.9)
By: jeffozozo When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: If you fell while clipping the third bolt, I think you'd deck, or meet your belayer. This would not be a good first lead, unless you had TR'ed it first and were familiar with it. The pockets at the top are really cool though, and it is a very fun climb. The chain links are small. My BD hood wire quick draws would not fit in them.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : As the Jerks Fly (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Dec 26, 2014

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Comments: This climb is really fun. There are some cool sequences that then lead to positive holds so you can rest a bit.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Witch (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Sandiness, tricky sequences, big pinches and a couple of long run-outs--an exciting climb to be sure. I personally don't like the slabby, thin top section. If someone hadn't kindly made big white tick marks on the only marginal feet near the top, I'd have pitched off for sure.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Mecca (5.11c)
By: jeffozozo When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: This is nice and consistent and the crux is technical rather than powerful. There are plenty of rests above the crux as well. I like this better than As the Crows Fly. Also, it has gym-style clips at the chains.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Puppy (5.9-)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: My son seth, who is 12, and a fledgling leader, really enjoyed this climb. He has led it now a couple of times, and seems to have less trouble on it than I do. Maybe some of the moves favor a shorter climber?


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : The Fella's (5.9 PG13)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: This is a really fun climb. It is really nice out on the face of the arete, but you can climb to the left side of the arete as well, plenty of positive holds. The clipping stances are pretty good -- it is bolted well, though there are several places where a fall could land you on a ledge, hence the PG-13 rating.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Extinction (5.10a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: If this is the climb I think it is, it sure seemed harder than 10 a/b to me. Maybe I just found the wrong combination of sharp half pad and quarter pad crimpers to blunder my way up it. Seemed like the foot work was delicate and critical. The holds get bigger near the top, but solid technique is still required, and it is fairly burly to pull up over the bulge to the hidden anchor. Still a great climb, though. My wife (who's great at thin, balancey things) loved it.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Fly Boys (5.10a/b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: This climb goes to the highest set of anchors on this crag.The bottom is slabby and pretty straightforward, but you could get hurt if you took a fall. The sequence to get into the top section is a little reachy for short folks, making it a bit of a sketchy lead, as you could fall back onto the slab if you blew the clip. The climbing up high is awesome though.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Flytrap : Hopscotch (5.12b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a hard climb. Dudes who climb this and say it's easy are understating their own awesomeness. The description is apt -- the sequences are tricky, specific and demanding pretty much throughout the climb. I felt like pulling the roof was the easiest part because the holds up there are pretty big. A heel hook to grab that big flake is obvious, but moving off the flake is super hard!


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Fat Black Chuck (5.11b)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: The anchors are kind of weird. Not unsafe, but there is a single chain that hangs way over the bulge. If I did this again, I'd bring a couple of long slings and some lockers and extend the anchor over the bulge to reduce the rope drag. the last 3 feet of climbing doesn't add that much to this, but the bottom section is pretty cool.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Sand Stoner Reverse (5.12a)
By: jeffozozo When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Because this is north-facing, it is super nice on a late summer day. The belay area is awesome, and the features on the rock are just beautiful. It is bolted really well, and all the falls are clean. I would say that the technical crux is the first few moves, but there isn't anything here that is too hard by itself. Stringing it all together... that's something else. As you might guess from the overhang, cleaning it from the ground up is much easier than from the top down.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Conditional Bliss (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This route seems slightly less vertical than Caging the Zealot and is less exposed. It is bolted really well, but the rope is still quite heavy when you get near the chains. Using longer runners on the first few draws helps with rope drag. It is also possible to go right from the last bolt before the chains and finish on the ledge for Caging the Zealot this allows you to belay your second up from there and go to the top, or rap from there to the mid-station.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Just Another Bolt in the Wa... (5.11a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: climbed this today. the giant block-ledge thingy in the middle of the climb is loose, and wiggles a little. I don't know if this has been the case for a long time and everyone who climbs this experiences that and just sweats it out, or if it has come loose recently. It spooked me good, I'll not climb this again.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Solace (5.10a)
By: jeffozozo When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the comments that this is the funnest climb on the wall. The end is a bit committing, pulling over the bulge on the crimps, but that is the only reason this would be rated a 10a.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Voodoo Economics (5.8)
By: jeffozozo When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: This is really fun, even though it is sandy and slopey in places. It is well bolted, and a good beginner lead, except the moves to the chains, which are a little committing. Beta, after watching my kids climb it is to stay to the right, use the crack at the top as a sort of lay-back and reach high with your right hand.


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