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Member Since: Jun 14, 2012
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact JeffL

JeffL
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Point Rank: # 6,705
Total Points: 72
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 319 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 280 | Stars 7 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Vandals Took The Handle

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Trad, 3 pitches, 350'

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Hyperform Wall

Jun 30, 2016

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: alien

alien

Jul 10, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 in the Alpenglow

Pitch 3 in the Alpenglow

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Vandals Took The Handle (5.11a)

Jun 30, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Poop in LPC

Poop in LPC

Jun 30, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Camss

Camss

Forums : ... :

Dec 3, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: camalots

camalots

Forums : ... :

Nov 24, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: cams2

cams2

Forums : ... :

Nov 22, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: cams

cams

Forums : ... :

Nov 22, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: LPC snow conditions 7 11 15

LPC snow conditions 7 11 15

Forums : Northern Utah & Idaho : ... : Post

Jul 12, 2015

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Free Mexican Air Force (5.11b PG13)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: We found plenty of other pro than just the machine bolts. They actually looked in better condition than most of the rusted protection bolts in the cirque. I was kept away from this climb for a while because I was unsure what the pro was like. I found it to be safer than many other routes on the cirque. Get on it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hogum Fork : Hogum's Heroes (5.11-)
By: JeffL When: Jul 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route a few days ago, big day. We hiked with half a liter, and filled up in the pools in Maybird. If I did this again, I would hike past Red Pine Lake, then behind the Pfeifferhorn. If you avoid the summit of the Pfeiff, and walk south, you end up in some alpine meadow/fields that are pretty casual to walk in. You could also summit the Pfeiff and follow the ridge to the best place to drop into Hogum Cirque. Leave your pack on the ridge and hike for 30 minutes to the base of the rou... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Flying Buttress : Hound's Tooth (5.11c/d)
By: JeffL When: Jul 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route has amazing free climbing! Doubles green c3 and below, small nuts for the 10d dihedral. Moving past the "hounds tooth" is the crux. Standard rack for the crux move and 2nd pitch. The rock is really good! A small amount of exfoliation similar to what you'll see anywhere in the cirque. If this route see's a few more ascents, it will clean up nicely!

The block at the top of the first pitch is detached. It&@POUN... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Question Mark Wall Route (5.12b R)
By: JeffL When: Jul 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I have added a pink tricam to the anchor to supplement the bad looking bolts. Equalized with a sling and a few biners. the gear was placed July 6, 2016. Please do not booty my gear before September, I will remove it once I send the route.

Also, p1 can be rapped or TR'd with a 70m. A 60m would come up 10 feet short, swinging to the left or shenanigans could get you down with a 60


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Hyperform Wall : Vandals Took The Handle (5.11a)
By: JeffL When: Jun 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Bring a knife to cut the tat at the anchors. There is so much, it's stiff, crusty and not that great. Quick links or biners for the bolts would be adequate to make the anchors ideal, tat would be another temporary fix.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Trinity Right (5.12a)
By: JeffL When: Jun 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Can you clean this route on rappel? Obviously it's easier to have the 2nd clean it, but what if both want to lead it?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Shady Crag : Mini Skirts And Halter Tops (5.11-)
By: JeffL When: Jun 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Such a rad route! Do it in one pitch for sure! Rack I'd take next time: .3, .4, 2x .5, 3x .75 and #1, 2x #2, and single 3 and 4. At least 6 slings, 3 double lengths, and a few draws. The roof is amazing, felt quite hard for 11a. The #2's in the roof are perfect, definitely no worries about it being tipped out.

This route seems like it would in the shade all day every day as it is in a dihedral with a pillar in front of it


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: JeffL When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I took the whipper just before reaching the chicken head yesterday. I fell pretty far, but it's not that bad. There is a shelf about 40 feet below the first bolt, best for the belayer to stand here as opposed to near the base of the fin arĂȘte.

As for gear, I brought a single rack #1 and below, offset nuts, and C3s that I did not place. I wish I had more quick draws to link p2 and p3. The pin they speak of above looked solid. You could definitely bring more gear, but if you're gettin... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2)
By: JeffL When: Nov 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I did this as my first wall. Mostly a bolt ladder. As stated above. Tricams, pink, red, blue, brown make the c2 pretty straight forward if you look at how the beta photo places it.

Metolius cams were money in some of the c2 pods, one pod in particular that super topo makes a big deal out of.

There was a missing pin on p3, only spot a hook is really needed. Seems like there's a free variation to the left to bypass this. DON"T USE CAM HOOKS.

Took us 13 hours, base to summit. Don't plan on... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake
By: JeffL When: Aug 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The approach beta is slightly off. Hike west, not east from the parking lot. It's the same major trail as the Ruth lake hiking trail. There is a wooden sign that says "climbing" where you leave the main trail.

Also, the routes are bolted but almost all of them would go on gear. Bring a rack of nuts, tricams, and small camalots if you're into mixing things up a bit.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bridge Area : Taking the Bullet (5.11a)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Very fun route! Endurance fest and fun movement. Lots of bolts spin on this route. Bring something to tighten them! Also, the anchors bolts are placed in a staggered orientation. Bring a double length sling or some cord to equalize them if you plan on TRing. Two quickdraws are not ideal on this anchor.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bridge Area : The Tiger's Revenge (5.10d)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome route with fun movement! The first bolt needs to be tightened! The hangar fell off when my partner weighted the rope. I was able to find the nut and tighten it with my fingers, but if you have a wrench bring it! Also, "Taking the Bullet" Just right of here needs several bolts tightened.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11-)
By: JeffL When: May 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For some reason I thought you could rap this with a single 70m rope... Maybe the above poster speaking of an anchor 20-30 feet below the summit would work, but you won't make it to the belay ledge from the summit rap. We downclimbed... 5.4 exposed with huge consequences. There's also a bolt at the ledge that you do reach (15-20 feet short of the anchors) for the bolted route that goes up the north face. If you wanted to leave a locker or do some sort of shenanigans that would be possible. D... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Mystery Machine (5.10b/c)
By: JeffL When: May 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This thing is so GOOD! Do the first pitch of railroad tracks and walk all the way back on a good ledge to the chimney with a crack on the right. I found a .4 camalot handy. You will definitely want three #3 camalots. I only had two and had an exciting runout to the chains. The rest of the gear listed here is accurate. The person who said this was their favorite route was spot on. The crack is a little sandy because not many people climb it. Keep an eye out for loose rock and defini... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: JeffL When: Apr 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Amazing route! I brought a single rack green alien to #4 camalot, with a 2nd #2 and an 11 hex. I was very happy to have and place the hex. Nothing else was needed, though you could walk a 5 for a ways in the chimney if you aren't comfortable. Once in the chimneys and once at a gear belay just after the last anchor in the guidebook (not supertopo). The last anchor shown in the guidebook before scrambling is missing the bolts. There's only 1 left, and it's not all that great. Yo... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11)
By: JeffL When: Jan 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The beginning of the first pitch was not obvious to me. I think I was too far right? At any rate it was chossy and dirty. Is there scrambling required to get to the thin hands crack and beginning of the route?


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