Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: .


Member Since: Nov 12, 2011
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact jeffblankman

Point Rank: # 1,766
Total Points: 405
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has jeffblankman been climbing?










Contributions


All 349 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 45 | Posts 6 | Stars 205 | Ratings 24
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Godzilla (5.10b)
By: jeffblankman When: Mar 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: PS - 60m rope WILL get you to solid ground (w/rope stretch). As previously mentioned, though, if you're uncertain, walk off or rap down DPtT.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : ... : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Jan 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Adam. I saw on another site (Summitpost, maybe?) Bob Gaines mentioning that the lines/variations for "Fote Hog" are incorrect in the Miramontes book.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : Fote Hog (5.6)
By: jeffblankman When: Jan 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Okay, I saw on another site (Summitpost, maybe?) Bob Gaines mentioning that the lines/variations for "Fote Hog" are incorrect in the Miramontes book.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : Fote Hog (5.6)
By: jeffblankman When: Jan 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Question for those "salty" J-Tree climbers out there: What is the actual "route" for P1 of Fote Hog?

I see a lot of pictures and talk here about going over the roof bulge on the patina jugs . . . but I was under the impression that that is a different climb or different variation of the climb. The "Miramontes" guide shows Fote Hog going pretty much straight up from the tree on the low ledge and then entering the patina near the little bush, NOT going up under the roof. That guide lists the jugg... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : ... : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Jan 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I don' think that is actually the line for Fote Hog. As far as I know Fote hog goes basically straight up from the tree and enters the patina near that bush.

I could be wrong. But in the Miramontes guide, going up over the roof on the patina jugs like that is a different variation that goes at 5.9. Just sayin', but I notice on a lot of these photos people are calling this the crux of Fote Hog.

Any grizzled veterans out there care to chime in with your nuggets of wisdom? :-)


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : Animal Boulder : Dead Animal Traverse (V2+)
By: jeffblankman When: Jan 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Just got on Dead Animal Traverse for the first time this weekend, and I'm sorry I passed it up so many times!

Great for you crack and awkward/unique movement aficionados out there. With three pads and a spotter to move them the landing is really not that bad.

After some time working the problem, I was able to complete the finish and had the start "wired". For me, two cruxes. First, an awkward and tough move in the middle where fingers rule the day, just before a left hand reach to the hand jam... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Hillside Area : Painted Crack Boulder : The Painted Crack (5.8+ V-easy)
By: jeffblankman When: Jan 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a GREAT, jammable crack. If your crack tech. is solid it should offer no problems whatsoever. Not too high, and the landing is good. If you've no pad or spotter, do it in yer approach shoes (great size for the foot jams) if you're nervous about peeling off: hurts a lot less than landing in climbing shoes!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: jeffblankman When: May 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Did this the 2nd time yesterday and have to second that it is a REALLY enjoyable climb.

Did the "slab" variation at the top this time and really don't see, personally, what the fuss is about. Once at the bolt, it's so easy you could crawl up on hands and knees. I really think there is zero chance of a long fall past the bolt . . . unless you were to choose to do something really weird and stupid.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Traitor Horn (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: May 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Glad to have finally done this. Linked from Coffin Nail and it was a truly great experience.

We belayed ABOVE the short easy chimney for Coffin Nail and easily made the niche belay past the false horn with a 60m rope. Drag was not bad with good management at the angles: into CN dihedral, over CN roof, Traverse under horn.

I thought the moves through the niche and establishing on the lower part of the horn were stiffer than they appeared, but the the moves off the horn were no sweat. The expo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Coffin Nail (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: May 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb w/link to TH. Belay high after the five-nuthin P1 and you can reach the alcove after the false horn with a 60m rope. We did, and drag was not bad w/thoughtful rope management.

W/good crack tech the lower "strenuous" crack section of P2 was a cruise, I thought. The "5.3" section (Vogel Guide) below the lieback was not bad, but stiffer than advertized IMO.

Knowing what I know now--how good the hands and pro are--I'd rest up at the amazing stance at the start of the lieback, then fire... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Super Roof (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Apr 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was great. Had to collect myself for a minute before committing to the corner. Some great fist jams and all the great feet make it go pretty easy, tho. Kept hands in the crack all the way, too. My follower had something hissing at him up in the roof crack. I'm glad I didn't hear it, or I think I may have called it a day!

The "getting there" description leaves a little to be desired: we wandered for some time, and were close on a few occasions without seeing it. Steve Canyon is fa... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Out on a Whim (5.10d)
By: jeffblankman When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Shelob's Lair (5.10b)
By: jeffblankman When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Been to the Gorge probably 40 times and this was the first time I ever ventured to the far lower-right of Middle Earth. This climb requires a somewhat complex and convoluted TR anchor if you don;t want a risky lead. Despite that, the climb is great. Loved the roof pull and tricky off-hands at the top.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Tombstone : Dog Leg Crack (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Is there anyone out there with ANY beta on this climb at all?

I've wanted to try it for a while, but a vague description of an extended off-with at the top is disconcerting.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Gunsmoke Area : ... : Photo
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Didn't actually think turning the corner was the crux, personally. A lot easier than the two earlier cruxes with thin hands and big moves.

Was able to get a nice knee-bar in the pod just before turning the corner, which makes the moves pretty mellow and not too pumpy.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Stellar Walls : Unfinished Business (5.10d)
By: jeffblankman When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I stupidly didn't check the knot in the end of the rope after rapping DD Arete and it got stuck at the chains. Luckily, with more than half of a 60m rope left, I was able to safely lead Little Chicken and JUST make it to the rap station for DD and retrieve the rope.

Not sure exactly how to start this climb. The description is a bit confusing. "Start on ledge as for Stellar Crack" . . . well, Stellar starts on the far right corner of the ledge, which didn't really seem to make sense for this ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Stellar Walls : Double Dragon Arete (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Slabby direct start adds another dimension to this climb. It's about to get more difficult though: Oct 5, 2014 when we did it there is an orangish flake that is a key hold. It is seriously flexing and going to come off soon.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Godzilla (5.10b)
By: jeffblankman When: Apr 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Leave the big cams at home if you're confident placing nuts: the dihedral eats 'em up. Bring a full set of nuts and a few (4-5) cams fingers to small hands. Save the .75 cam to place up high in a nice crack above the bolts.

This is a "full value" climb--one of the longest in SD--with tons of variation in the climbing: dihedral, pulling a small roof on positive holds, desperate smearing/mantel, and some crack at the top!

I think it would also be possible to traverse left at the top of the dihed... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : Roshambo (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: TRd this today for sake of time and to check it out: can't wait to get back and lead it. P2 is quality IMO, but I found it to be pretty easy at 5.9--finger locks aplenty and nice textured face out right (not too vertical) for feet. It would eat nuts. Lower crack on P1 including the "alt" to the chimney were pretty straight forward and would be easy to protect. I have pretty average (even smallish) hands and the initial crack seemed perfect size. Very textured and secure, if a bit bulgy/overhung.... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : Rock Beats Death (5.8)
By: jeffblankman When: Dec 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Just did this route today and thought I'd add it to MP. Feel free to edit or suggest edits. We really just used it as an easy means to get to the top of the crag and walk off, rather than hiking back up and around, but I found the climb to be surprisingly enjoyable. I lead it onsight with a large and cumbersome backpack and it was still easy and pretty enjoyable.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: RE: the 4WD road over Los Pinos

It was not very bad at all IMO. No real skill at off-road driving needed. A bit bumpy and a few scattered rocks and ruts, but I think even a slow and measured 2WD vehicle with decent clearance could make it. Of course, different story if it's rained recently.

From the saddle down the Espinoza road is not bad, either, until right before (2 min walk) the use trail to the toe of the crag (S Buttress route).


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : South Buttress (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed. Pitch 1 is surely a physical grovel, but I found P2 to have "harder" moves and scarier pro (maybe because I was leading that one). Even the moves (lieback) off the belay up the initial wedged flake/crack of P2 were heady for me. Not great pro options (inless you want to place where the best hands are) and very awkward to place. My savior was a solid nut in a small constriction in the thin crack to the left about 2 feet or so up the first flake. The wideness above sux, too. I used some po... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : Sunset Streaks (5.10a)
By: jeffblankman When: Nov 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Super-clean, super-fun climb. The crazy nature of the incut features (like someone used a tile saw to cut handholds/steps) had me literally laughing at times, with a wide grin plastered on my face. The bouldery moves on the last pitch right below the top were my favorite. As far as the "deck potential" re: the first moves off the 2nd and 3rd belays: yeah, it's there, but you're really not all that high up. Not too much to sweat about IMO. We also linked Ps 1/2 and 3/4 w/60m rope.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Apostrophe (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Aug 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If you want a bigger challenge, go all passive pro on this climb: It eats up nuts, offsets especially. Hexes protect the wide crack and horizontal before the offwidth, and even the offwidth itself.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : West Crack (5.9)
By: jeffblankman When: Aug 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: QUESTIONABLE RAP ANCHOR? NEED REPLACEMENT? I'm not an expert on rap anchors, but on 8/13/13 the old iron ring style smash link that attaches the rap chain to the left bolt/hanger on the 2nd rap station is not fully closed. To me, it looked like it would be possible for it to slip out of the hanger, given the right (wrong) weight and direction. Someone with more experience and knowledge about rap anchors should check it out.

On another note, what a great climb. We lucked out arriving at around 1... more >>


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!