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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Jeff Welch When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts are only 4' apart if you can't count.
Never seen bolts on bolts, except at anchors (and I do appreciate more than one bolt at those locations).
There are a few bolted cracks, but only because only a nutter would want to place gear in that limestone.
Shelf has hundreds of routes spread across many different cliffs... but certain ones tend to attract more people than others. You can always find solitude, and the somewhat remote location with no major roads makes Shelf feel more tranq... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: Jeff Welch When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks sax! Big improvement for sure.
I still think it should just follow the guidebook method (Gray's Branch, Upper, Middle and Lower Gorge, etc) but this works fine too.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Yellow Ridge (5.7) : Photo (Copy)
By: Jeff Welch When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did it the way you describe, Matt. This is definitely NOT the best way, much better to traverse low, although it looks more improbable at first.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Toker (5.11a)
By: Jeff Welch When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thuggish start makes this maybe not the best warmup.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Tectonic Wall : Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky (5.10b)
By: Jeff Welch When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nearly every route has groundfall potential if you blow the 2nd or 3rd clip, especially if you clip from too low. Although counter-intuitive, it's generally better to clip high because it minimizes the amount of slack out. This one is very closely bolted in my opinion - much more so than most routes in the Red.
All that said... this is a great route with fun moves on clean rock!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Tectonic Wall : Plate Tectonics (5.9+)
By: Jeff Welch When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first few moves are greasy and sequential enough to call 5.10a. The overhanging plate haul at the top is a blast!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Indy wall : Makin' Bacon (5.10d)
By: Jeff Welch When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not really technical. Just crimp, step, repeat. Some holds are a bit tweaky if your fingers are larger.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag : (Way) Up Yonder (5.11b)
By: Jeff Welch When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun. Avoid stemming the dihedral for full value.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Hangman (5.12b)
By: Jeff Welch When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Supposedly a hold broke on this in the roof, upping the grade substantially?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : City Slickers (5.12a)
By: Jeff Welch When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have no idea why Mabe's guidebook gives this no stars. I've climbed plenty of zero star routes, and this is definitely not one of them. Other than the awkward mantle at the start, the moves are really fun and the rock is great. Well worth doing despite the short length.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: Jeff Welch When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Traddies have been driving past this crag and route for at least 50 years to get to Castle Rock, yet never bothered to do it. It was hardly cutting edge difficulty, even 50 years ago, so you can't use "too hard" as an excuse.
If it hadn't been bolted, it would probably remain undone, or at best, obscure. As it is, it's a fun, easy, well-protected multipitch climb that seems to get regular traffic. I doubt that would be the case if the bolts were removed.
I bet not a single person would have... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10c)
By: Jeff Welch When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Tod and Derek for fixing this!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Spy : East Ridge (5.3 R)
By: Jeff Welch When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great exposure on the thin rib! I found this to be a little more mentally challenging than most easy Flatirons climbs, but it really made for a unique experience.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatironette : East Face/First Flatironett... (5.2)
By: Jeff Welch When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you felt like this was over too quickly, as I did, you can walk 50ft down the gully between the Flatironette's summit and the Spy, and climb the Spy to its top.
A good climb to take a beginner up, but not a good beginner lead. Runout even by Flatirons standards, especially if you take the cleaner (more funner) rock.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Gelsa (5.4) : Photo
By: Jeff Welch When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it's strongest when tied off at the base. But that tree appears to be so stout that it wouldn't really matter. I suspect it's tied off high to allow the rope to run at a better angle.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Pile Driver (5.11b)
By: Jeff Welch When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook description of "polished and ugly, but undeniably good fun" is pretty much spot on.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Tijuana Crack Whore (5.11c)
By: Jeff Welch When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.10d is definitely more accurate.
Slightly awkward climbing leads to a weird, polished, annoying off-balance crux at 3rd bolt. After that the route is pretty damn fun.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave
By: Jeff Welch When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left a gray Eastern Mountain Sports hoody in the Ruckman Cave this afternoon, near the base of Street Knowledge and Head Full of Lead. Unfortunately I won't be able to get back to Rifle for about a week. I would really like to get it back if you happen to find it, will happily provide a 12er of your choice.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: Jeff Welch When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's also worth noting that climbing Pretty Woman can be used to access the lower anchor on Hey Good Lookin'... that combined with a well-protected crux means this is a great climb to try if hard 5.11 is your limit!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Twilight Zone : The Chaser (5.11-)
By: Jeff Welch When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chossy at the bottom... would be a three star route otherwise. The roof and above is brilliant! Very well bolted.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bush Administration (5.10c)
By: Jeff Welch When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bottom section is decent. Top section is classic! Sustained but with just enough rest stances. A bit runout down low, but the cruxy section is well protected.
All of the rock on the climbing line felt solid, but stand out of the way when pulling the rope - both ropes that I saw pulled from the anchors today had rocks come with them.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook - Previe...
By: Jeff Welch When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: They are not cheap, but I'm guessing that printing a durable book in full color in relatively small quantities is expensive enough that they are not exactly getting rich off these books.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: Jeff Welch When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure I like the way regions and areas are organized here. The guidebook, redriverclimbing.com, rockclimbing.com (ie, every resource I've seen for the RRG except this one) is organized by the traditional method. Yes, it is confusing at times, but this method is confusing at ALL times if you don't have a topographic map. In my experience, most climbers are much more likely to have a guidebook than a topo map for cragging areas, so organizing by the traditional method that the guidebook uses... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Nordwand (5.11b/c)
By: Jeff Welch When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is great! Second pitch is decent, but awkward in spots, and the anchor isn't in the best place to clean the route from. The crux sequence is fantastic though hard to read.
The moves getting off the ledge on P2 are extremely dangerous if you're not tall enough to make the clip from the ledge. I could just stretch to it at 5'9", my shorter partner had to make an extremely committing move to get it clipped.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Jeff Welch When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That may very well be, and Ivan would know better than I. I only TR'd it and was told that what I did was the correct line, which seems to agree with the line drawn in the photo in Dick William's gray book.
However, if the description needs editing, please let me know and I'll do it.
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